(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!

By E_N_3

5 years ago

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  • 198 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by KSUWildcatFan
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#2162 84 days ago

Just brought my SS home this week. Hardtopped, new plastics, comet LEDs, Rottendog LED displays, etc. Liking it a lot! Had a couple of switches to adjust (one over active sling, a pop that wasn't registering on all parts of the skirt). It's pretty much good to go now but I've got two issues: the left flipper I think the EOS is wrong because it seems no matter what I do, I can't make it up the ramp. The right flipper feels like maybe it's got some binding, either from a bad sleeve or being too close to the bushing, but it can make it up the ramp at least. The other issue is driving me absolutely bonkers. The airlock was closing too much and interfering with the inner lane so I took it partially apart and reassembled, and now it's not always even engaging. Clearly I need to do as Vid's guide says and take the entire assembly out to clean and tighten, but I can't get to the damn set screws. Any tips?

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#2167 83 days ago
Quoted from MeNaCeFiRe:

Get a nail between the gates!

Guess that explains the random nail found floating inside the cab lol. Nail works great. Problem solved.

2 weeks later
#2179 67 days ago

That's pretty neat. I'd be down if I didn't already have the HOT NEW PINBALL topper up there

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1 week later
#2188 58 days ago

Ugh. After moving my SS downstairs (I completely removed the head) my center target doesn't seem to want to fire the coil to reset. All other features seem the same as before. Ideas?

#2190 58 days ago

Certainly possible. It does register the hit if I manually bring it up before starting a game, it just doesn't bring it back up like it used to. It worked perfectly before I unplugged all the looms to move it. Seems weird that it could possibly have something to do with that since everything else works, but...

I'll have to do some more investigating under the PF tomorrow.. I'm under the weather tonight

#2203 56 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Could be the reset switch is out of alignment or a wire came off?

I feel dumb asking, but.. Reset switch? That's not this is it? This registers the drop it seems, and that does work--if the target is up when the game starts. Seems if the target is down when the game starts now it'll register the "T" target when I hit the first switch in the middle ramp (under the shuttle toy).

The coil isn't (audibly) doing anything during the solenoid test. It's just really weird that it suddenly crapped out after being moved downstairs. I transported it some 800 miles, through the elements, with no issues.. And the basement move was what did it? Frickin weird.

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#2209 55 days ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Just had a "Pinshaker" shaker motor installed at the York pinball show by robgo777 .
Gotta say what a huge difference it makes to game play. It's hooked up the the (Space) (Shuttle) flashers so will run when locking a ball or hitting the center ramp. I now have it running with the bell also. So it integrates with game play very well.
As far as the installation went. It's very simple. Since this was the first system 9 he did he didn't have the correct plug for the 110 line so just plugged it into the service outlet. two small jumper boards were installed at J12 and J19. Then a small controller board was added in the backbox. Finally Shaker motor itself was installed. One thing to note was with the system 9 bottom board of the cap is only 1/4". The T nuts that push up though to mount the shaker are about 5/8" Since we were installing at the show we just turned them upside down for temporary use. Permanent fix would be to mount a piece of 1/2" thick plywood between the motor and bottom board.
PS. Yeah I know I need to get a hard top for it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's rad AF. Got a video?

#2211 55 days ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Kind of hard to video a game shaking with shaker motor. But as I said. It really really goes well with this game. When you have multi ball set and hit the center ramp to start multiball or complete the SHUTTLE targets to sound the bell it's like the Space Shuttle is taking off. You won't be disappointed.
If you go to www.pinshakers.com they don't have system 9 on their list yet since this was their first install. You will have to contact them to get the kit. I know one other person that played the game at the show has requested one for his Space Shuttle. I'm sure the site will be updated soon.

Haha yeah I considered that right after posting. It's an interesting thought. Might be better to opt for World Cup Soccer first, then SS, in my case. Both could be neat.

#2217 54 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

ksuwildcatfan yeah, that’s the switch. I had to do some fine tuning on mine to get it to work, that’s why I brought it up. Sounds like something with the coil? I’ve had wires fall off of coils.. I’m sure you checked that, though.

Isn't that switch just to register the drop and score it? If I manually lift the drop so it's UP on game start, it correctly registers it when I hit the target. It just doesn't bring it back up once the time runs out to hit the ramp. I'm kind of stumped tbh.

Thinking I'll just throw in a new coil with my next purchase and try swapping it in. I guess it at least still technically plays fine in this state, it's just not....'right' without the possibility of the ball firing straight back, down the center drain when I hit the target. This issue makes the game a lot easier imo.

I'm still fighting my right pop too, because the stupid thing likes not registering a hit on the top/top left part of the skirt. I keep adjusting it and it only seems to buy me a few games before returning to crap again. Annoying.

#2219 54 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

ksuwildcatfan the transistor for the T drop target is Q39. With the target down and in attract mode connect a jumper to the ground braid in the back box and touch the top of Q39. (The metal tab on top). That should fire the coil. If it doesn’t fire could be the transistor or coil. I believe you can also do the same at the coil by unsoldering the trigger wire. Yeah, getting pop bumpers set correctly is a PITA!

Thanks Chris I'll give that a shot. Someone else suggested I double check and make sure I didn't shift a plug a pin over or flip backwards when I plugged them all back in, which isn't something I had really considered. Do you by chance know which plug on the board handles this particular drop? If not, no worries, I can check them all tonight.

And yes, I hate adjusting pops! Seems no matter what I do with that stupid pop it always falls back to having poor alignment on the spoon which results in inconsistent hot detection on the upper part of the skirt. Blah!

#2221 53 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

It’s 1P11 wire 6. Grey green wire

Thanks a bunch Chris. Really appreciate it.

#2223 53 days ago

Verified all the connections looked 'right' and then unplugged+plugged in again. Played around with the coil a bit and while it felt smooth it didn't seem to cleanly (fully) retract all the time, so I resleeved it. Noticed that, at least in one exact scenario (plunge and let it immediately drain), it at least fired the coil in some sense, but not enough to actually reset it. And it doesn't do anything with the coil when the ball shoots out.

I don't know, I'm stumped. And I'm a bit confused by IP11..My MPU only has J codes.. What am I not 'getting'? I also liked for a green/gray wire in position 6 and couldn't figure anything out. Am I just dumb?!

#2226 53 days ago

Have not tried that yet. I do have a manual, I just........ Have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to schematics and PCBs most of the time. I did see that Q39 reference in mine but I don't see anything VISIBLY wrong there. Q34 looks... bad. But no idea what that even is.

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#2227 53 days ago

Solenoid test is all quiet on test 5. But it's running some semblance of the reset circuitry when the ball drains, it seems.

#2229 53 days ago

Correct. Q39 to ground doesn't seem to fire the coil. I thought I heard something a few times but I'm not entirely sure. Either way, the target never popped up. Tested against Q60 (bell) and that worked every time.

Solder job isn't great on the red wires because I was having issues with my iron. I think I'll clip both wires and do it again, just to eliminate that from the list of possibilities.
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//Edit cleaned up the solder on both lugs, same result. AS the ball is draining the target pops up just a LITTLE but that's as much as I ever see out of it

#2230 53 days ago

I'm jumping off a damn cliff.

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#2232 53 days ago

Yup, that was it. Broke the stupid pin trying to straighten it. Flipped it around and crammed it in there to test. Appears I screwed up my actual drop when I resleeved though so I get to go back and redo that.. And order new pins. :eyeroll:

Welp, I feel pretty stupid on this one. Guess it happens.

#2235 53 days ago

At least this one was a "free" mistake but come TF on. Too damn excited to plug it back in, I guess....

1 week later
#2238 46 days ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Next to impossible... The system 9 cpu board is hard to find and expensive. You could run off a system 11 board with modified roms though. Still looking at $400 for that one board alone. And then you still have to find a playfield. My honest opinion would be not to get it unless you’re willing to wait years to find all the parts. And you’re gonna have more into it then just buying a working game.

+1. Unless it's like $100 or something I guess.

1 week later
#2253 37 days ago

This is probably a really stupid and generic question but the only issue I have with my SS is that one of the bumpers (the right pop, next to the "A" lane) doesn't always respond terribly well if the ball lazily hits the skirt from the top. It seems to me that the skirt is too tight against the spoon or something. I've fiddled with it a bit and it's USUALLY a bit better, but not always. It drives me nuts when it doesn't pop like it's supposed to. I don't think it's a switch gap issue, but I suppose I could make that tighter if needed. Iirc it NEVER fails to register a hit from the side or bottom but it's also pretty much impossible to lazily hit it from either of those directions also..

Everything was rebuilt not that long ago (not by me) when it was hardtopped so it's not sitting here with 30 years of neglect or something.

#2256 36 days ago

Yeah, the more I think about it the more I'm realizing I probably just need to loosen the stack and re-center. I was thinking that the fact that the skirt pylon seemed to drag awkwardly against the spoon was something else but it makes perfect sense I'd see it doing what it's doing if it were just not properly aligned. Still pretty new to a lot of this, d'oh!

#2261 32 days ago

Lol, damn pins got you too. My T target issue sent me down the rabbit home too.

2 weeks later
#2278 17 days ago

Ugh. Still fighting my right pop bumper. I'm pretty sure all that was wrong was a skirt/spoon alignment (just pressing the skirt up top, it was clear it didn't press the same way as the other two) but now, after messing around with the leafs I have zero action whatsoever on that pop. Then, looking at the board to see if something stood out, I saw this wonderful 'fix'. I don't think it's a contributing factor to this issue, but... Wow.
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Back on task, just how are people adjusting pop bumpers on these? No matter how I prop the playfield, I can't seem to contort myself in such a manner that I can do much of anything pop-related with any ease. It's beyond frustrating.

#2280 15 days ago

Good call on propping the playfield like that. Much easier to get in there and work on the pop. I'm not sure how much it contributed to my issue but I actually used my Flex Stone already. At this point I think my best play is probably to just buy an entirely new switch stack and see where that gets me. If it still doesn't work, then it's board issues.

The pop coil is definitely still free and after adjusting the leafs (from previously working, I filed them lightly and made SURE to be ready to turn the machine off if the pop immediately fired on game start, but it didn't and hadn't fired since).

Still shuddering at that transistor... Yikes.

Oh, and I noticed this burned looking spot while nosing around. Not sure if that's a problem or not...

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#2282 15 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

ksuwildcatfan it’s easy to test the transistor. Take a wire, one end on ground braid, then touch the top of the transistor. The pop should fire. If it doesn’t, the transistor is bad. You can use this trick on any transistor in attract mode, even the voice clips.

Yup, I did that while testing my T target which wasn't working all of a sudden.

I'll do some more digging tomorrow. I need to research what that horribly "fixed" transistor handles, too. That is.. Bad.

#2283 9 days ago

Finally had a chance to investigate in the backbox just a little. That horribly "fixed" transistor is Q83. I'll give you one guess what that handles...

So, I guess I'll be learning how to repair this.

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#2289 5 days ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

I don't have one on my game, but I went to look at one to buy that had one installed. I didn't buy it mainly because of the hardtop. It was coming up under the ramp area creating a hump and the holes that were cut out to match the holes on the playfield did not match up well. This could be a result of a poor installation, but it also deterred me from buying a hardtop for my machine. It also looked a little cheap and plasticy to me. Others may have had a different experience.

Lol. Probably the one I bought. I'll have to take a closer look tonight.

#2291 5 days ago

There's no adhesive under the main ramp because of the insert that's there (no adhesive under the clear holes for inserts). I'm not sure I see it as "coming up" -- I only see anything at all when I have the glass off and I'm sticking my head right next to it. I've not noticed any issues as far as gameplay is concerned.

I have just ONE complaint about the hardtop. It seems to attract dust like CRAZY. But I imagine some canned air would make quick work of it.

All in all I think the hardtop is great for games with gross playfields. It plays fast as hell so it's a completely different experience. But I certainly wouldn't sand down a nice playfield to install one (who would?!).

#2292 5 days ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

I didn't buy it mainly because of the hardtop. It was coming up under the ramp area
not what I wanted to hear but probably what I needed to hear. I have concerns because I'm thinking of possibly adding one of Starship fantasy ramps and I know they're thicker and can be a pain to get flush with the playfield at the ramp entrance,wondering if the thickness of the hardtop is just going to add to the complications.

The hardtop is like 1mm thick. It's not going to cause any issues from that front. Besides, since you're sanding off the top layer on the playfield to begin with.. It's even less of an issue.

Hardtops aren't for everyone, but I personally like mine. I need to finish my high speed so I'm ready to start eight ball deluxe sometime in January.. Ugh.

#2294 9 hours ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

I'm going to hardtop my Space Shuttle. The playfield is absolutely roached and there are all sorts of things that need work underneath the playfield. I have the hardtop, new plastics, new backglass, new pop bumper parts, new flipper mechs and a new shuttle. I'm patiently waiting for Starship Fantasy to FINALLY, FINALLY, FINALLY start producing the ramp again! That's the missing piece and Larry has said that he will be doing them soon (whatever that means).
I have a Black Knight with a hardtop on it and I've been playing it for about a year. I don't see any issues and it plays very well. It's a great way to revive a game that won't get any love because of it's playfield but some people will complain that it doesn't play the same. They're entitled to their opinion.

You'll love your hardtopped SS!

I'll love mine when I get my boards back...

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