Hey guys and gals. New Space Shuttle owner here! Can't wait to get it running. It's worn/well-loved and missing some essential parts.

I snagged the manual and noticed that there are no diagrams or tables for the cabinet parts, unlike my other pins. I am looking for the sizes of bolts required to hold the backbox upward. The machine I bought didn't have them. Can anyone point me to the correct size? They're kind necessary. Can't seem to find them online specifically listed for this cabinet.

As soon as I get the backbox upward, I'll upload some pictures. It's definitely going to require some work.

Thanks.

Awesome. Thanks for the info. I figured they were standard sized but it's not like I could take the cabinet into Lowes and find the corresponding size It's my first Williams and first fixer-upper from a non-working state. Learning is fun.

I am slowly amassing such a collection This is only my 3rd game! And my last car was all metric so none of those work!

I went out to Lowes today and turns out these are not long enough. While they work perfectly for leg bolts, they are not long enough to reach through the bottom of the backbox into the threads on the cabinet. Looks like I need some that are well over 3" long to reach through.

Anyone want to measure how long theirs is?

When I hold the backbox upright and attempt to put the bolt in, it doesn't even reach the hole in which the threads lie. There's nothing on the underside. I'll attach a picture.

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Cleaning comes as soon as I can reliably get inside it without fear it will collapse under its own weight! This thing is dirrrty. Pics will come after it's clean Picked up longer bolts tonight and will put them in shortly.

The playfield has the dirt so caked in that it's permanently grey throughout the whole middle. I did what I could with topical cleaners being careful not to rub any paint off. The plastics cleaned up well but are slightly warped, but not cracked. The rails and other aluminum seem okay too. Everything coated in a film of grease.

Some other notables I found:
-Shuttle is cracked on its left wing.
-Probably because the centre ramp is broken I'd suspect it causes balls to launch straight up in the air.
-Mylar is peeling up in a few places.
-New battery tray was installed.
-Legs are rusted as if they did get wet for an extended period of time.
-Back of the cabinet is quite damaged.
-Plug was modified to remove the ground post.

Overall, not terrible for the reduced price. Haven't opened it up yet to see what's in the cabinet but from what I can see, no rats, mice, or water damage. Looks rather clean.

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I saw the bell and LAUGHED! It's phenomenal. Can't express how much that made me happy.

I'm going to get the game running and playable, swap out the rubbers, rebuild flippers, fix as much aesthetically as I can without too much. Then, if it pans out and is playable and FUN, I'll look for a new playfield and fix/repaint the cabinet. If it turns out to be a bore, I may pass it on to someone else. But that's why it's a hobby! I'm excited, actually.

I hope the board doesn't end up causing me too many issues. It's in a non-playable state, with gibberish upon boot. I've talked to Ed Cheung and he's still fixing them for a relatively cheap price. I'll see what I can do before sending it off though.

Not looking to turn a profit on this, or even care about how much it costs - if it's fun and I enjoy it. I cry when I see playfields like this too. Same as you though, the game looks like it's worn through normal play and not abuse.

So I managed to get into the machine today and I have to ask a silly question - How does the playfield manage to stay up in this title? I pull it forward as I'm lifting up to avoid cracking the back plastic ramp against the rear of the cabinet...but there's no way that the metal rod on the right side will adequately hold the playfield in place upright. And if I go beyond upright, the playfield ramps hit the wooden rails. What's the trick?

Previous owners. Pfft.

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The rest of the wiring doesn't look bad. The drop targets were removed and I'm trying my darndest to figure out how it all goes back together. Crazy contraption. The flipper was removed but I'm going to rebuild those anyway. A few of those flat ribbon ground wires were severed in the cabinet. The coin door mechanisms have been removed too, and looks like a bypass was put in. I'll have to reverse engineer that. But it's definitely not bad at all.

I've decided to send the board away for a fix to Ed Cheung. There's some pretty nasty acid damage on the board from leaky batteries. If he can get it to work with some bypasses and magic, I'll be happy.

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Ed says he can fix anything and has never had a board he couldn't get working. I shipped it off to him last week and am awaiting the word on how his progress is going.

In the meantime, new lights, new rubber bands, new plunger! New flipper assemblies going in soon.

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Are the flashers on Space Shuttle under SPACE and SHUTTLE #89 or #63? I ask because I ordered a kit of parts on eBay specifically assembled to rebuild Space Shuttle. It came with plunger pieces, lamps, fuses, rubber bands, new balls, all together and all assembled specifically for this game.

The flashers which came were #89 but I can't get them to fit. After doing some searching online, it seems that not only were there TWO playfields for Space Shuttle (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-lamps-x6-for-williams-space-shuttle - I have the hot dog inserts layout), but there is no consensus on the type of bulb. It's all conjecture and no one apparently has the table to verify which bulbs they are. ...

BUT YOU GUYS DO! Can someone tell me why my #89's don't fit? If they should be #63, I'll contact the seller and have him change the kit.

Also, this game has a lot of lamps. A LOT. The kit I ordered also didn't come with any #44 for the matrix lights and not enough #47 for GI.

Not 67's, 63's. There's numerous mentions elsewhere online of 63's being used on System9 games. But not everyone has the same experience apparently.

Here's how the 89s don't fit. I've tried numerous bulbs in all of the sockets.

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That's as far as the 89 goes into the socket. It bottoms out prematurely. So it's too long, not too small.

So I finally found a listing of the Williams catalog from that era with their cryptic numbering for bulbs and sockets. From http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Blue_16-9064-B/index.html#/68/zoomed it mentions that #63 was used in a few games, including #535 Space Shuttle. But it only says there are 4 required. My playfield has 6. So I'm confused, but I believe that #63 is what I'm looking for. No one can verify what they have in their machine?

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Why were there two playfields for this machine? Any idea?

Thanks for clarifying the difference! I'll buy some 63's and try them. (Both of my other machines use 89's.)

I had heard that saying many times. I had never read that they were in such dire straits they ran out of parts though. That is intriguing.

Was Space Shuttle NASA endorsed?

Mmm hot dogs.

On a lighter note, Ed Cheung got back to me and said that he has successfully resurrected my board! A few posts back, you can see how badly it was damaged from acid. He had this to say:

The problem was with the wiring around the D2, D3 diodes. It prevent the RAM enable and the RAM power supply pin from getting any power. As a result, reading and writing from RAM caused random junk on the bus.

I await his return of the board and have much anticipation for its installation!

He was very willing to work on it. I suspect it takes him so little time, he makes out very well doing it in a weekend. $165 + $20 shipping (+ 3% if PayPal)

His website shows that he has the original board checker equipment for various systems. He's also written PCBs and software to hook up to check boards by just turning them on (from what I can tell of his EE lingo.) The custom hardware, I'm sure, saves him time. Even at $40/hr, that's pretty decent if he does a few a month. With the history he has written about (and probably some he can't talk about), the money he's spent on the testing beds, the time he spent rewriting his custom gear, I'm sure he's set. I hope he's just doing this out of the goodness of his heart, providing a service at a fair price to keep the hobby alive.

Cost me less than an original would, and now it has been thoroughly checked over and fixed (unlike the original that would cost me $300 and probably fail during shipment.)

Thanks to Ed Cheung, the board powered up today and the machine works! I have no coin door mechanisms and the diagnostic switches are broken so the next step is to get them fixed so I can do some switch and solenoid testing. Until then, enjoy my attract mode!

Put in some lights where the dead ones are, adjusted the flippers, attached the spinner and began testing things. Here's what I found I have left to work on before it's usable:

- Players 2, 3 and 4 segment displays are dead. They refuse to display anything. Hooking up Player 1's segment display to these outputs works fine. Don't know if they can be fixed or not yet.

- Sound is extremely low. Extremely, to the point where it is nearly inaudible. Stick your head in the backbox and you can hear the testing noises. This is my next project to fix. Didn't expect this. Any thoughts?

- No coin door mechanisms. I have the testing diagnostic buttons, but they're cracked and need to be replaced. Otherwise, there are some sliced wires, no switches to coin-up, nothing. As a result, haven't figured out how to start a game yet.

- Lots of aesthetic stuff that'll come last.

ebay.com link: Awesome Space Shuttle pinball playfield CPR reproduction playfield Wow

$1200... TWELVE HUNDRED DOLLARS.

Even if I had the last CPR Shuttle playfield in the world, I'd still sell it for value (500-600) to the person who needed it. I couldn't gouge someone for extra. I just wouldn't feel right doing it.

I'm in need of a playfield but if they're going to be $1200, I'll play with the beat up one I have until it dies. Then, if I had to, I'd print a big sticker and rebuild the playfield myself before paying that much.

FIVE DISPLAYS CONNECTED AS SHOWN.

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The length of my space shuttle toy is just under 10" long from nose to tail. So about 1:145 or so if I did my math right?

So I decided to attempt to see the status of the rest of the game mechanics while I figure out my audio issues. Turns out that it's really close to being playable! I have a few issues still to work out.

• The drop targets don't retract all the way. I suspect worn springs. When I was putting them back together, I noticed a distinct lack of tug on them. They go about half way down then slowly fall the rest of the way. Pop back up with some effort though so the coil is good.
• The bell rings for what seems a looong time when I spell SHUTTLE. Is this normal? It will ring for close to a full second before stopping. I expected shorter dings, but I could be wrong.
• I think my airlock gate needs some adjustment. I didn't pay much attention to it, but I don't recall it moving back and forth.
• Players 2,3,4 displays are dead. Swapping in Player 1's display works on all other positions so I believe it's the displays themselves and not the board.

By the way, for any future readers, you cannot start a game without all three pinballs in the table. It just won't start! No indication that it won't. Just stays in attract mode forever.

All switches work perfectly, as do all kickers and pop bumpers (even though one doesn't have the upper ring). All lights are working just fine. Flippers are good. I'd say the game is probably playable if it wasn't for the audio trouble and the score displays!

Swapped the cables with no luck. Moved the displays around, no luck. Same symptoms. I suspect they're kaput.

Yup, the ringing seems to be right according to other videos on youtube that I've seen. It's just really shocking to hear coming from a solid state pinball.

The airlock works fine too, it seems. I performed some testing last night of switches and solenoids and all is fine.

I did some testing of the amplifier (TDA2002) last night and it seems to be working fine. I'm stumped. I have another thread open about it on the TSS subforum (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-9-volume-nearly-nothing). I have sound, just inaudibly low. Otherwise, the game is ready to play! It's horribly boring without sound though. have you ever tried to play pinball without sound?

I just bought a replacement sound board today. New displays coming too. Hopefully, this ends the process of getting it working and I can finally play it!

Got my new (used) displays today! They work! All that's left is my pesky sound situation. Bought a PinballPCB sound board. Hopefully it gets here soon.

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"Inspected by" perhaps? I have a few inspection stickers around my machine.

Have a few flaky sockets (as seen in the pic above). Bulb sits fine, wire is good, solder clean. How do you clean the contacts on the inside of a 44/47 socket?

Down to $999! *grumble* ebay.com link: Awesome Space Shuttle pinball playfield CPR reproduction playfield Wow

They were $699 in outstanding quality, I believe. $599 if great, and $500 if had blemishes during printing. Still, at $800, the rest of the pin would have to be in superb shape if you intend to flip. Of course, for someone just restoring a game to play it like I am, any price would be worth it. BUT, I'm not paying $800 or $1000 for a playfield. Not without having disposable income, anyway.

There's a grill as mentioned. Here's a pic of mine.
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So I replaced my power board with a Rottendog model but it didn't fix my issue. I have very quiet sound and no speech, due to lack of voltage at U48. I believe it's a CPU board issue now rather than anything else. *sigh* All I wanna do is play the machine! I'll have to find someone who can specifically work on the sound section of a System 9 board, which will be extremely difficult.

I think I have the only Space Shuttle in like 300 miles. This town is so isolated it sucks.

The original speech board says "garbled" on the back, so I had little hope it works. Why? I don't know. Could just be ROMs. The power board was probably fine. However, there's a significant change in -12V at U48 when the game is on - it drops to -20V. To eliminate the possibility of it being power, I bought a Rottendog board and installed it, but no change. I feel better doing that anyway on such an old game, one that is in meh condition. The main CPU board I had was furnished by Ed Cheung and it works great as far as booting, playing, and operation - other than sound. I don't know if he actually checked it or not.

So I'm willing to re-sell the working boards to others if needed. I figure that I'd want that same courtesy if needing a hard to find board. I only paid $500 for the machine, so putting in a few hundred isn't terrible in my opinion to get it working.

Want to drive yours to PA?

On the bright side of things, the backbox looks good.

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The board was originally serviced by Ed. Did a great job getting the board up and running and playing. But I'm not sure if sound was tested. He says it was. But it doesn't work despite changing out nearly every part that is involved in the sound section.

PinballPCB's page says "updated August 2013". I don't have hope it'll be soon, but it would be fantastic if he did produce it.

I plan on doing the fuses as soon as the game's up and running.

If the process of going to a System 11 is easy enough, then great. i'm fine with that. But even System11 boards are really expensive to begin with. I feel I'm so close I shouldn't give up on the System 9 yet.

IT WORKS! IT WORKS!

Went inspecting why I had -12V at the header pin, but not along the circuit beyond it. Turns out that the header pin connector (the little wire clamp that goes in the hole) was green and broken in two. The pin wasn't actually in full contact with the wire leading to a huge loss of voltage.

I transplanted an unused pin to 1J17pin8 and IT SPEAKS! All sounds work. All speech works. I'm ecstatic! Now to put it all back together and see how it plays!

I have a flaky airlock clock outlane switch, a flaky A switch, and a non-functional multiball launch switch. I think they just need to be cleaned and adjusted because they all test out in diagnostics. Weak pop bumpers that need to be rebuilt.

It's a non-forgiving game. That left outlane is treacherous.

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Any idea what switch I could order for the U-S-A lanes and the right airlock outlane? Seems as if the leaf switches are all mostly the same, but some obviously differ from another.

I found them listed in the Blue Parts Catalog with associated Williams part numbers, but none of them are in stock anywhere. Not rollovers for the USA lanes, nor the outlane, nor the pop bumper switches!

I've tried cleaning them. They're intermittent during play, but respond perfectly on the DMM. Did Williams use gold contacts on their leafs? It doesn't appear so, but it might be some other plating material that would be removed if I used something more coarse than paper.

Well, had a pop bumper failure which I believe stuck a coil on and blew the 3A fuse. I figured there would be failures. I didn't figure the more common parts would be out of stock though. Blah. I did have a 800,000 point game! Hehe.

I bought the pieces to rebuild the 3 pop bumpers. I chose one red, one white, and one blue skirt for them. I think It'll look neat.

Edward cheung, the guy who rebuilt my CPU board, has his space shuttle lit from beneath with pure white LEDs. Looks amazing. Lights up that part of the board significantly. Here's what he did.

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His complete rebuild can be found here: http://www.edcheung.com/album/album05/pinball/shuttlepin.htm

What bugs me about the lighting on this table is that the entire centre of the playfield is dark, minus the flashers. While playing in a dark room, it's often hard to see the ball when it's there. I may rig up a spot light or two to shine across it a little bit.

Yup. If anything, this is what I will do, spots from across the playfield. There's a huge glare from the space shuttle backglass on my machine if playing in the dark. If the centre of the playfield was brighter, it might not show as much.

I wish there was more room between the top of the shuttle toy and the glass. There's no rudder on the shuttle afterall! Not a lot of room for customizing the playfield with toys and stuff.

Indeed. I did not think to purchase the interior cone though. Drat. And since the bulbs are soldered through the cone, removing them more than once is something I do not want to do. This looks awesome though.

The LEDs make me jealous. My playfield is so beat up that the LEDs wouldn't do it justice. And I'm not paying the $1000 for that playfield... that apparently is no longer listed on ebay. But the theme of the game begs for LEDs.

I say either make your own wire or buy one that's close enough to trigger the switch. It really isn't a complex mechanism. Spending $35 on it seems really excessive. Take a paperclip and be creative! Depends on how stock you want it to be. I'd just be careful with the shuttle as it's fragile. As long as the ball isn't launching upward towards the shuttle, it shouldn't receive an impact that would damage anything.

As stated, the dimensions for the wire are in the other thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-system-9-general-troubleshooting-help-needed#post-1898711

I love the asymmetry in it to be honest.

Here's the part numbers from the Williams Blue Catalog Parts List. It *should* be accurate, albeit hard to read. But the switches I ordered for my Space Shuttle were not correct when I matched the part numbers. Other parts, such as lane dividers, rubber rings, coils etc, were all correct. So be warned.

Which part are you specifically looking for? I can measure mine if you'd like as my machine is open.

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Start with the easiest fix. Sounds like you may want to check the header pins on the CPU board. Cold solder joints may have flexed during transport or while playing and now they're intermittent. The backbox lights should be the easiest to diagnose. Follow them back making sure they're all connected properly and wiggle the connector slightly on the main board they connect to. If they go on and off, there's your culprit.

So I got my game all back together after rebuildng the three pop bumpers and it plays well for a beater. (The playfield will never be perfect and so I just grin and bear it.) The U and A lane switches are so finnicky. The game will play fine for a dozen games, then all of a sudden, the U lane will stop scoring. Then, it's the A lane. The problem is that they're dirty contacts. I've done everything I can to make them work minus filing them down, but I'm not sure what material they're made of. I *hate* opening this machine because of having to remove the ramps or risk cracking the plastics.

But the pop bumpers rebuild was ... exciting. They worked but only after cleaning the contacts on the new switches. Why would I have to?? They've never been used. But once cleaned, they worked. The right bumper is a bit weak. I think the switch that releases it back up is misaligned and so it only pop down half way. But they're far more powerful than they were.

I love the game, but boy are the outlanes a beast. 90% of the balls I lose are down the left lane. It's as if it was designed that way. Crappiest game - ~50,000, done in under 45 seconds. Best game so far - 1.7M (7,000 spinner + extra balls).

CLOSE AIRLOCK. AAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaah!

Blasphemer. The neighbors need to hear my shuttle values being scored.

After a month or so of play, here are my thoughts:

• Hardest Shot Award - Center Ramp. I just can't reliably hit it from the left flipper, and have probably <50% success rate with the right. It's at such a weird angle (straight) that the shots often don't make it all the way up, or hit the bordering rubber posts bouncing off.
• Easiest Shot Award - Spinner lane. I can reliably hit it from either flipper, and routinely hit all three drop targets from the right flipper, re-opening the airlock. I love this shot.
• Most Rewarding Aspect - Resetting the award with the right ramp. You just don't see it too often on tables where random awards are given. If you don't like the 50K award? Change it!
• Least Rewarding Aspect - The right ramp. It has the extra ball light when 7x is lit or 7,000 spinner value, but I wish it did a little more. I wish the award reset was a target below the ramp and the ramp itself did something else.
• Most Annoying Aspect - Ball length. The table is a killer. Games can be over in less than 60 seconds. First balls can be <10K at times. I don't hate it; it's just annoying.
• Oddest Design Decision - SHUTTLE scoring. Sure, you can change its value, but lighting anything other than hold bonus and extra ball is just not worth it. Spelling SHUTTLE isn't always easy. Pulling down 50K for doing so is just weak. The lower values (first four lights in my opinion) should always be changed. There's just no reason to ever shoot for them.
• Highest Score So Far - 2.8 million. Extra ball is not too difficult to achieve. I shall look into the settings in the manual to advance the difficulty of getting the extra balls, or limiting it as a SHUTTLE award.

Overall, it's a thrill to play! I'm glad I picked it up and brought it back from the dead. My playfield is rough (and potentially warped slightly on the bottom right, I'm noticing) but I don't mind. It's a good table to practice aim, I've found.

One question after looking through the manual. Setting 4:36 gives me the choice to either light the pop bumpers one at a time per completion of the 3-bank drop targets, or light all of them after the first completion. Does this affect anything other than aesthetics? I can't find any reason this is an option at all.

Ah! I had no idea. I shall set it on light only one after the bank is dropped. Thanks!

I adjusted my pop bumpers tonight. The right one was dull, barely pluging the ball. The bottom one wouldn't trigger from the front. Messed with the right one only to have it fire repeatedly when it was struck. The switch wasn't closed, but it was close enough, I guess, for it to flutter after being hit and retrigger itself. I had to place two spacer washers beneath the mounting bracket against the playfield to give it a little more room to stay open. Once i did that, worked perfectly. Adjusted the cup on the other one and they're amazing now. Far fewer balls going straight down the middle out of the pops.

I settled on the following options:

• Special: Score points
• Replay: 1,200,000
• Replay: Score points instead of credit
• Bumpers: light single after dropped the 3-bank
• Frequency of extra ball on SHUTTLE: Not Often (8)
• Frequency of SPECIAL on SHUTTLE: Not Often (5)
• All other settings default

I remember reading in some other thread somewhere, maybe a Comet thread, regarding some LEDs that were always lit. Turns out that they were rated at far less than 5V to light, and that the lamp circuits were actually drawing current even when unlit, causing the LEDs to react. The owner had to buy higher voltage LEDs to prevent them from always being on. Don't know if it applies, or if they're even available, but thought I'd chime in.

Can anyone tell me how to reset the high scores? The manual is quite confusing as to when I'm to press and hold the HIGH SCORE RESET switch. I never hear a sound and the scores don't reset. I did, however, get the #1 high score to be repeated in all 4 positions, which is lame because the game was won on a cheat (the multiball/stop n score switch was stuck closed repeatedly scoring).

I want all 00's for high scores. I set the scores on 4/13.1-5, but can't seem to reset them.

Maybe the switch is bad?

HA. Ya know, that never occurred to me. Still confused why I can't manually reset them though.

Batteries are fresh! First thing I did actually since the board was plagued with battery acid damage from the start.

I know on page 9 it has instructions, but when I hold the RESET HIGH SCORES button down, nothing happens. Ever. No matter how long I hold it or when I hold it.

I've set 13.1-4 to the high scores I want to show upon reset. But when I pull the batteries, I lose those settings too, and they automatically reset to 4.5M/4M/3.5M/3M which are not what I chose

Can someone describe or show me the wire connections on their RESET HIGH SCORES switch for me to compare? I don't have any wiring diagrams of the cabinet/coin door for this game, something the manual lacks and should have in my opinion.

Thanks!

So I did some digging, and it turns out that not only is my high score reset button not working, but the plumb bob tilt, ball roll tilt, and slam tilt not working. Since I have no coin door mechanisms, they're removed as well. I think someone got into this circuit and messed with it. Credit button works fine though. They're all run through 1J10 from the main board.

I'll have to do some further exploratory surgery to see what's been messed with.

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Did some tinkering today after reading the schematic a bit more and managed to fix the high score reset issue. At first I thought maybe it was a column failure, seeing as the column consists of Plumb-Tilt, Ball-Roll Tilt, Right Coin, Center Coin, Left Coin, Slam Tilt, and High Score Reset, all of which were not working. But, it's also responsible for the Credit Button which IS working. The whole column couldn't be in a fail state.

The next obvious reasoning was a bad wire. All of them run through a Green/Brown wire back to the main board. But since the credit button was working, I surmised that it couldn't have been a failure on the board, but somewhere else. The five connectors as seen in the image above (high score reset, sam tile, left/right/center coins) all exist on the coin door beyond a 12-pin connector jack. All five of these were non-functional. Therefore, the issue is there.

And certainly it was. The green/brown wire that existed to connect all of those mechanisms had been spliced and looped back on itself for some strange reason. I never try to question what previous owners do their machines. None of the five switches were operations. As soon as I re-attached it to the left coin door, they started to work (at least the ones I could test immediately.)

Left coin chute works. Right coin chute does not. But the previous owner once again worked magic and cut the arms off the chute switches. I can still turn the mechanism, but the right one doesn't activate.

High score reset works just fine now! That's why I was doing this.

Tilts I may mess with another time. I believe they were severed too. I just don't feel like taking the machine apart today.

The machine is a beater. I'm not going to replace the coin mechanisms because they're missing and the game it staying in my house. The plumb tilt I will probably fix. But slam tilts and ball roll tilt probably not (if they're missing or broken).

The part numbers for the flipper assemblies (the entire assembly) are C-9952-L and C-9952-R. However, I cannot seem to locate anything that identifies just the bracket. I rebuilt my flippers but did not need the bracket. There are rebuild kits for that purpose available all over. I'll keep looking but I don't think much will come up.

I have two switches (the A lane and the upper ramp switch) which continuously give me problems. The switches test good, but during gameplay, won't trigger. I have to clean them after every 20 or 30 games even though they test fine. I think I'm going to replace them next I order stuff. I don't know if it's the material the contacts were made from or what. But even though my DMM tests show they're working, the game doesn't recognize the closing of the switch.

You're right. I *think* it's that one.

B-8039 is the full assembly, which lists A-6889 as part #3. But again, buy at own risk. Not my fault blah blah Page 5-10h of the Williams Blue Parts Catalog.

Not sure what the difference is between B-8039 and B-8039-2 though.

I would if I hadn't already put as much into Space Shuttle to get it playable as I bought my machine for.

I did red, white, and blue pop bumper skirts. Just the skirts. It's subtle and doesn't really add much, but I like it.

I paid $500 for mine and put about $500 into it having the main board fixed, pop bumpers, pinballs, lights, bands, leaf switches, plunger, legs, flippers.... the playfield is terrible though and the true eyesore of it all. The ramps are cracked, but at the price for a 'new' one, I'm staying away.

Just crack off the mounting points. Mine's removable in 3 minutes!

Got the TILT working on my Space Shuttle. Turns out it was just corroded connections on the connector between the boards and the playfield (connector pin 21 for the plumb tilt switch itself, and pin 19 for the common return for a few other switches for anyone reading later on). Cleaned pin 21 up and it worked! Since the credit button and the high score reset buttons worked, pin 19 was working fine. Still need to figure out the rolling ball tilt (pin 22). Not sure what's up with that yet.

Installed the bridge rectifier fuses in my Space Shuttle today. For $6.50 or so, I feel safer!

I would take one as well if I had a playfield that new! Put me down for a "potential sale if miracle happens". I like the shuttles. But the Williams logo would be nice too.

So exactly what is the strategy here?

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Two games. Four minutes. 67,100 points. Needless to say, I gave up playing pinball last night. *sigh*

I have hotdog inserts and hotdog-shaped holes in the playfield. And there are enough fly balls hitting the middle T that I don't need no stinkin yellow cones on upside down.

I fixed my spinner the other night. It was bent every-so-slightly so it wouldn't spin forever the way new spinners do. Took it apart, cleaned it up, and bent the pins to be perfectly parallel to the playfield and now it goes on for at least twice as long.

Also adjusted the pop bumpers. They just don't seem to retain their switch spacing and eventually feel very weak as a result. They're annoying to adjust.

They look good. But I know what you mean. A slight wear of the cup is all it takes.

Where did you get a new board?

Yeah the CPR playfields are nothing but disgusting greediness now. I need one too as my playfield is shot. Because printing another batch is cost-prohibitive says CPR, people are just holding the original print hoping someone will pay $1000+ for it. Sickening.

I bought my Space Shuttle band kit on eBay. It was normal bands, nothing fancy. They do flake a bit though which I'm unhappy with. But because my playfield is so bad, I don't care.

This is what is listed in the manual:

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Mine had 3 dead original ones. I bought a set from a user here on pinside for $75. Work great! Look great!

Indeed it was! Some people don't like the value posted after-the-fact which is why you were anonymous. BUT reporting that some time later, they're working great! Can you get me a playfield??

I don't think so. Not that I can recall, anyway. Understanding the logic behind the logic can be unobtainable sometimes though!

I'm curious too. Mine has mylar all over it. And the wood beneath it is really nice! The rest of the playfield is shot though. I'm considering doing the hardtop installation to save the game but if the mylar is going to be a problem in the removal process, I may not.