Space Shuttle
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Hey All,
I'm reporting for duty! I have some issues to resolve. Three quick questions:
1. What is the L metal bracket in the back left for?
2. Gate on right side of ramp. It's missing and I don't see a switch. Do I need it?
Thanks All!
0E69B6E0-5A62-4B17-8CCC-BB957AF57471 (resized).jpeg566802F3-9403-4EF3-87A5-722F86B369DF (resized).jpegHey All,
Recently joined the club! I'm working through some issues. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-coil-sound-and-scoring-issues#post-4572914
Matrices13 are you sure the flipper isn't hitting something on the top side? I had a similar issue on my space station. After alot of head rubbing, figured out the metal outlane guide was mounted in a way that obstructed the flipper.
Help! I’m down to only sound issues. Thought it was the soundboard, but buying a refurbished one from ksArcade did not fix the issue. Can someone take a reading of PIN 40 on U-4 in attract and game mode with a probe? I get nothing. Thanks!
TechnicalSteam
Brijam has a used one for sale in the ramps wanted/for sale thread.
Yes! Haven’t installed them yet, but I think they’ll work great and the width is correct.
Chris -
It is 1-7/8 x 2-1/16
Cale Hernandez
On Wed, Oct 31, 2018 at 9:08 AM <[email protected]> wrote:
Message:
Can you tell me the dimensions of this part?
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:Thanks going to give those a shot.
Clear Coating Space Shuttle. Restored shooter lane and eject holes. Should be all set for hard top soon.
Really disappointed that there are no ramps available for this game. I've contacted everyone I could think of who makes them.
Wonder how many people need this ramp? Wonder how many people would have to have one to make this feasible for
someone to do.
Freeplay40 has space shuttle ramp on his list to make after he gets a machine big enough for the ramp. I believe is is very close to the top of the list.
jetmechinnc use this to replace big capacitor:
https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/boards/boards-index.htm#bridgeboard
MountBrew Hardtop!!
If you have the money to pay a restorer to touch up and clear coat, or have the skills or want to learn, go for it. I would want some sort of wear protection on it when done. I’m almost done with my space shuttle hardtop install. It’s quite a bit of work and I’ve been slowly working on it since September. My playfield was toast, though.
Hardtop install done! I’m very pleased. I am chasing one gremlin. Sometimes when locking a ball, it lights the lock but doesn’t put another ball in the shooter lane. Sometimes it ends the ball and sometimes it puts a ball in the shooter lane after a long delay. If anyone has any ideas, let me know. A big thanks to GRUMPY for all the trouble shooting help.
photo aug 26, 5 10 58 pm (resized).jpgphoto feb 03, 10 06 41 am (resized).jpgphoto feb 03, 10 07 37 am (resized).jpgdzorbas I got it from Marco. Looks like they are now out of stock, suck!
Hey all you fine space shuttle owners! Question, are you able to “easily” hit the ramp shot using the right flipper? Seems to me right flipper is really only good for lock and getting into the pops. I did a complete rebuild, and it plays great! Just wondering if my right flipper is weak. I wish there was a flipper strength test!
Wow, thanks guys! I was wondering why hitting the targets was so difficult. I rebuilt both flippers and the left one works great. I just can’t figure out what’s going on with the right one.
KSUWildcatFan yeah, that’s the switch. I had to do some fine tuning on mine to get it to work, that’s why I brought it up. Sounds like something with the coil? I’ve had wires fall off of coils.. I’m sure you checked that, though.
KSUWildcatFan the transistor for the T drop target is Q39. With the target down and in attract mode connect a jumper to the ground braid in the back box and touch the top of Q39. (The metal tab on top). That should fire the coil. If it doesn’t fire could be the transistor or coil. I believe you can also do the same at the coil by unsoldering the trigger wire. Yeah, getting pop bumpers set correctly is a PITA!
Sorry! I was looking at the manual. It could be J11. Did you try grounding Q39? If you haven’t, you should download the manual.
Looks can be deceiving. So, you grounded Q39 and it did not fire the solenoid? Send a pic of the solenoid wiring.
KSUWildcatFan it’s easy to test the transistor. Take a wire, one end on ground braid, then touch the top of the transistor. The pop should fire. If it doesn’t, the transistor is bad. You can use this trick on any transistor in attract mode, even the voice clips.
Sounds like poor install. Mine looks great! Can’t tell it’s a hardtop. My machine was at a show and received a lot of plays over three days and there was zero noticeable wear.
There’s some good videos out there, but I’ve found shooting the spinner, getting the drops and upping multipliers with the USA lanes is the way to go. It’s hard. Only once or twice I’ve gotten to 7 times with the spinner at max value. I have no idea how multi-ball jackpot increases.
I did mine like KSUWildcatFan and like it! Definitely use non ghosting in controlled lights. I went with the American flags for the drop in front of ramp and the darker ones for the drops up the middle. There are pics in this thread of backbox lighting. For glare, I have several of these.
Apinjunkie before hardtop install your may want to unscrew the targets. Alignment should be based on inserts. The targets got in the way when I was trying to align the hardtop.
My metal return guides were beat to heck. I bought new ones from Cliffy. I think some places may stock them. Removing the "thimbles" can be a pain. I just got done with my firepower and tried the dremel method to remove them and it worked great!
Quoted from jcar302:What are thimbles?
The metal cylinder type things under each of the metal in lane guides. They have a collar and are very hard to remove from the metal inlanes
Apinjunkie those holes are used to line up the flippers when you re-install them. I put a T-Pin in the hole when reinstalling the flippers.
Yes, you can adjust it. Depending how tight yours is, you may need loosen that nut. Then just turn it counter clockwise until it is even with the hardtop playfield.
Those inserts look like they are ready for novus 2. Then just rattle can clear them and put black lines around them.
Great point KSUWildcatFan The rule I've heard and used is when you stop smelling the clear, it is done outgassing.
Are the spinner and lane change lights in the same switch row or column? If yeah, could be another wire issue
Awesome to hear your getting somewhere! Did you do a continuity check from the lane change back to the board? Can’t remember if you posted a pic. If not, that may help
KSUWildcatFan I'm in the same boat.. can’t get close to high score with three balls.
Sorry, should have included that. Stays closed until that switch is activated. Maybe you have a bad diode or a shorted wire going on
Quoted from jetmechinnc:I’m replacing the shuttle on a pin, does anyone know where to get the rivets/bushing that the wire form rides in that are installed on the metal bracket at the nose of the ship?
Thank you,
I used small bolts and nuts to hold the switch
Quoted from MinturnMiler:Space Shuttle drop down "T" target is not going down all the way and when the ball hits it the ball is shot upwards. Looking underneath I see 1 spring that might need to be replaced. Any tips on how much stuff I need to remove around the coil to access both sides of the spring?
Unscrew the whole assembly and clean it up and fix it.
Quoted from Charles_Kline:As I go through the box of parts that came with my project Space Shuttle (which was supposed to have everything but the pop bumper caps) I found I'm missing these two plastics. I'm not wanting to buy a full plastic set just yet, does anyone have decent ones of these two that perhaps were replaced with a full set?
Thanks,
-Charles
[quoted image]
I have those two plastics. Pm me.
A21A4BDF-DA37-4E20-9F47-2A2E7AD4E88E (resized).jpegQuoted from somenerd:Hi all, just joined the Space Shuttle owner's club myself a couple of weeks ago (pic in profile). Been enjoying the game quite a bit- looking forward to the day I claim top spot on the high scores.
Unfortunately, I am also coming in with a couple of troubleshooting questions. I tried searching the thread but didn't see anything about these, so here goes:
1) the upper-right pop bumper pops like it's supposed to, but when it pops, it does not register any points or trigger any sound effects from the game. I'm assuming there's a loose wire or broken connection someplace? Or will I need to rebuild the pop completely?
2) Occasionally (usually if I lock a ball and need to re-launch) the launch area will kick out two balls instead of the one it's supposed to. This also somehow negates receiving the 20,000 points for locking a ball and sometimes makes the game refuse to acknowledge a drained ball. Would this be caused by a faulty switch/sensor in the ball reserve (sorry I don't really know the official terminology)?
Figured I'd ask here before sending my maintenance tech another email. Thanks!
1: there is a score switch on the bumper assembly. Check for disconnected wire. Could also be on the boards
2: yeah, make sure all balls register in the trough and the lock switches. Use switch test mode.
Quoted from kryss63:Please could you check on your Space Shuttle to check if you have a spring on the coil plunger of the "T" drop target ?
It doesn't appear on Blue catalog, and not on my pinball... But all pictures that I found on Internet show a spring !
In my opinion, that's the reason why my target doesn't work well.
Thank you in advance to confirm that a spring is necessary. But in that case, I don't know where I will found a reference.
[quoted image][quoted image]
There is a spring on mine and it works fine.
Quoted from interconnect:So you've tried the blank Williams ones and they fit? I noticed they were slightly different dimensions from the Quarters ones. Mine are broken, so I just want something in there so it doesn't look like crap. Also, what is PPS? You referring to The Pinball Resource?
PPS = planetary pinball supply
Quoted from kryss63:The "new" coil was an used part... and not verified...
Yes, there is a diode, but maybe I've done a mistake during wiring.
Q39 seems to be burned and, page 17 of the space shuttle manual, Q39 is mentionned as the t drop target transistor.
[quoted image]
Edit: After checking, the diode is reversed on the new coil so my wiring was wrong, with a reversed diode. The new coil SA5/24/750DC value is near 4.6 Ohms. It seems ok. I think I have burned the Q39 transistor. I will replace it tomorrow by a TIP102 (I've read that it is better than an original TIP122) and also the Q70 (2N4401) associated. Your opinion ?
If it locks on when you power on after fix and you turn off machine immediately, you should be able to save the transistor.
Quoted from Charles_Kline:Finally got my decal order from Action Pinball. The spinner decal is decent but the quality of the drop target decals leaves a lot to be desired. They are not the proper gold foil of the originals.
Does anyone know where to get the correct drop target decals?
For Reference:
[quoted image]
I went with one of these for the drop
Quoted from Charles_Kline:Is there a post missing from my Shuttle? Or did someone add a screw here at some point.
[quoted image]
Nothing on mine.. darn Hacks!
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Was looking into doing a full restoration on my shuttle. Going to repaint the cabinet a nice metallic blue. However I don’t see anyone selling drop targets for either the 3 bank or single target. Can anyone point me into the right direction?
Thank you.
Drop targets are pretty standard. I think the space station ones work
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:Drop targets are pretty standard. I think the space station ones work
Just looked at my machine space shuttles targets are red, space station are black! DOH.
Quoted from rwredmon:Is there a good way to adjust the top of the heat shield post so that it sits flush with the playfield when down? In moving that whole assembly to a new playfield, the orange plastic top is just below the top of the playfield. The plastic top is just a friction fit on the metal post. There doesn't seem to be any adjustment screw like you find on drop targets. I could just remove the plastic top and then tap into place until it's flush, but doubt that would hold in place. Other adjustment options?
Randy
There is definitely a way to adjust it. A nut underneath then screw the plastic to desired alignment. It’s been a long time since I adjusted it, so going from memory.
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Homer Glen, IL