(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!

By E_N_3

10 years ago


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  • 320 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Pinkitten
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There are 4,484 posts in this topic. You are on page 88 of 90.
#4351 8 months ago

Switch Issue : Hello, When I start a game, player 1 scores Looks like its a drop target switch issue When player 2 starts , there is no 500 point ghost score. Hmmm

Further investigation shows that the credit button scores points when pressed to the player that is playing. keep pressing it and it keeps scoring points

Switch test tests fine all around

Any ideas ? Thx

#4352 8 months ago

Displaying High Scored :What is the key for the game to display and save high scores even if they dont reach the high score settings? Manual is confusing

#4353 8 months ago
Quoted from Slim2013:

Displaying High Scored :What is the key for the game to display and save high scores even if they dont reach the high score settings? Manual is confusing

You need to lower the default high score. I cant remember the default but is it 500,000? lower it to 100,000. remember if you change the batteries it will go back to the default. I hope this helps.

1 month later
#4354 6 months ago

My SS restoration is underway. Or, we have liftoff, I should say! Playfield is being swapped with new CPR pf, and all metal components will be tumbled and zinc plated. New ramp, ship, pops, plastic set, rubber. Cabinet is pretty clean, just a few small dings, so just a light paint touch up and then clear coat. New light board behind mirrored backglass. Should be finished in early winter!

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#4355 6 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

My SS restoration is underway. Or, we have liftoff, I should say! Playfield is being swapped with new CPR pf, and all metal components will be tumbled and zinc plated. New ramp, ship, pops, plastic set, rubber. Cabinet is pretty clean, just a few small dings, so just a light paint touch up and then clear coat. New light board behind mirrored backglass. Should be finished in early winter!
[quoted image]

Good luck and looking forward to seeing the end result!

#4356 6 months ago

Hey guys, it's getting close to time to refurb my beater space shuttle.
It's played for years flawlessly with 50%+ wood showing and just an insert decal set, lol.

Going to do a hard top.

Is there anywhere to get the plastics for less than $169?
Anyone have a post count? Looks like there are a few hidden.

1 week later
#4357 6 months ago

As I'm working on my Space Shuttle pf swap, I've noticed that the slingshots have a switch under the playfield that appears to be an EOS switch for the slingshot. This switch is separate from the two that stick up through the playfield to activate the slingshot solenoid. Was this a unique setup for Sys 9 games? I don't recall any other machines that have an EOS outside of the flippers.

Randy

#4358 6 months ago
Quoted from rwredmon:

As I'm working on my Space Shuttle pf swap, I've noticed that the slingshots have a switch under the playfield that appears to be an EOS switch for the slingshot. This switch is separate from the two that stick up through the playfield to activate the slingshot solenoid. Was this a unique setup for Sys 9 games? I don't recall any other machines that have an EOS outside of the flippers.
Randy

You made me look. Got to be for scoring. I did not fire it up to see.

#4359 6 months ago
Quoted from iamdrunker:

You made me look. Got to be for scoring. I did not fire it up to see.

It is for sure for scoring.

#4360 6 months ago
Quoted from interconnect:

It is for sure for scoring.

Ah, good thought...had not thought about scoring. Though I would have thought the existing switches could drive scoring as well? Just hadn't run across this configuration on other machines.

#4361 6 months ago
Quoted from rwredmon:

Ah, good thought...had not thought about scoring. Though I would have thought the existing switches could drive scoring as well? Just hadn't run across this configuration on other machines.

Probably run at different voltages. The slings are special solenoids, I believe, and are directly activated by the switches on the top of the playfield and those switches carry the current necessary for operation. The lower switch is for scoring and is probably operating at line level signals. System 9 games don't control the slings and pops via the computer, they are activated directly by the switches as it was thought that the computer wouldn’t be fast enough. I believe it was in later System 11 games where they started controlling them via the CPU.

2 weeks later
#4362 5 months ago

Regarding OCD LED board, I wanted to know if there was a data file for Space Shuttle. I'd like to modify the default board setting for one single lamp that strobes rapidly and too fast such that with the default board setting the led just remains lit solid. It's for the lamp in the back box that strobes the rocket flames on the shuttle. Let me know if you have any advice or if no data file exists how to modify this one.

Thanks! 

#4363 5 months ago

For anyone using LED OCD in a Space Shuttle, you might notice that you lose the strobing effect of the rocket flames on the backbox translite and there is no profile file created for this machine. If you use the Pinbot profile, the rocket flames are lamp 57, (Pinbot "Blue 4"). To get the rocket lamp to strobe properly use the advanced settings and use Profile 1 "incandes" with the values shown in the photo for lamp 57. On my machine it only worked when one led was in the TOP bayonet socket only. The game strobes this lamp so fast the OCD board seemed to have difficulty with it even at zero delay with the default B2-B7 values. This combination works and looks great with one super brite led. For the rest of the lamps I set max brightness to 90% and changed delay to 4 with excellent results.

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1 week later
#4364 5 months ago

Is there a good way to adjust the top of the heat shield post so that it sits flush with the playfield when down? In moving that whole assembly to a new playfield, the orange plastic top is just below the top of the playfield. The plastic top is just a friction fit on the metal post. There doesn't seem to be any adjustment screw like you find on drop targets. I could just remove the plastic top and then tap into place until it's flush, but doubt that would hold in place. Other adjustment options?

Randy

#4365 5 months ago
Quoted from rwredmon:

Is there a good way to adjust the top of the heat shield post so that it sits flush with the playfield when down? In moving that whole assembly to a new playfield, the orange plastic top is just below the top of the playfield. The plastic top is just a friction fit on the metal post. There doesn't seem to be any adjustment screw like you find on drop targets. I could just remove the plastic top and then tap into place until it's flush, but doubt that would hold in place. Other adjustment options?
Randy

There is definitely a way to adjust it. A nut underneath then screw the plastic to desired alignment. It’s been a long time since I adjusted it, so going from memory.

#4366 5 months ago
Quoted from jcar302:

Hey guys, it's getting close to time to refurb my beater space shuttle.
It's played for years flawlessly with 50%+ wood showing and just an insert decal set, lol.
Going to do a hard top.
Is there anywhere to get the plastics for less than $169?
Anyone have a post count? Looks like there are a few hidden.

31

IMG_0396 (resized).jpegIMG_0396 (resized).jpeg
#4367 5 months ago

Anyone have a spare shuttle w switch and gate for sale?

#4368 5 months ago
Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Anyone have a spare shuttle w switch and gate for sale?

Doesn't have the switch and gate, but Starship Fantasy has the shuttle.

https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Space-Shuttle-Ship

#4369 5 months ago

Looking for the upper ramp switch & gate assembly. Mine is missing on a shuttle I just picked up. Anyone have a used one I could purchase? Also missing the switch itself but I am sure I can find that or make one fit.

Part# A-10591 https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-10591

gate (resized).jpggate (resized).jpg gate2 (resized).jpggate2 (resized).jpg

I did find a wire that looks similar. Part# 12-6649 https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6649

Can anyone confirm this is the same wire gate? If so, can someone measure their gate assembly and I can see if I can find one that matches?

#4370 5 months ago
Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Anyone have a spare shuttle w switch and gate for sale?

I recommend contacting M&M creations. They have magnet switches that can stick under ramp to detect the ball. No gate needed.

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#4371 4 months ago

New Space Shuttle toy.

I just bought a new Space Shuttle toy to replace the beat up one on my Space Shuttle pinball machine. I'm sure they all come from the same place. It feels much better than the original. I just have one question. There are two holes in the top in order to mount the switch assembly. There is a hole on each wing to mount the toy to the playfield plastic. There is also one hole on each side of the ship to place the sides of the ball gate in. The original toy looks like it had a rivet holding the gate onto the ship. The new toy doesn't have a hole for the rivet. Do I need to drill a hole and rivet it or is it not needed? I'd like some input before I start drilling.

Thanks

Kramertheman

#4372 4 months ago
Quoted from Kramertheman:

New Space Shuttle toy.
I just bought a new Space Shuttle toy to replace the beat up one on my Space Shuttle pinball machine. I'm sure they all come from the same place. It feels much better than the original. I just have one question. There are two holes in the top in order to mount the switch assembly. There is a hole on each wing to mount the toy to the playfield plastic. There is also one hole on each side of the ship to place the sides of the ball gate in. The original toy looks like it had a rivet holding the gate onto the ship. The new toy doesn't have a hole for the rivet. Do I need to drill a hole and rivet it or is it not needed? I'd like some input before I start drilling.
Thanks
Kramertheman

no

#4373 4 months ago

As I'm working on the top side of my Space Shuttle playfield swap, I've noted that the 'shaft' on the original #6 t-nuts is longer (nearly 1/8") than the new t-nuts I had installed. I've compared several different t-nuts purchased at different times and the shafts on all the new t-nuts are shorter than the original t-nuts in the playfield. For some posts this probably won't matter, but for the mini posts (pointed top with hex base) which have a lock washer underneath (at least they did on the original playfield), the threaded portion of the post doesn't reach the t-nut. I think the simplest solution is just to knock out and re-use the original t-nuts for those 6 posts. Certainly easier than countersinking the new t-nuts. Anyone else run into this?

Randy

#4374 4 months ago
Quoted from pindel:

31
[quoted image]

Thanks, i'm guessing i will come up a few short, most likely i have some new stragglers hanging around, but i only ordered 25 of them.
With that said, that's a great pic and a clean looking rebuild. I probably won't take any pics of mine when i put it apart now, lol.

#4375 4 months ago
Quoted from jcar302:

Thanks, i'm guessing i will come up a few short, most likely i have some new stragglers hanging around, but i only ordered 25 of them.
With that said, that's a great pic and a clean looking rebuild. I probably won't take any pics of mine when i put it apart now, lol.

I have a slightly different config on mine which I think yields 32 red posts. See edited pic. On mine, both side of the spinner are on a red post, and there is an additional red post on the left side. However on mine the very upper post by the USA lanes is a metal post with the bumper (which makes sense as this is where the launched balls go).
Randy

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#4376 4 months ago
Quoted from rwredmon:

I have a slightly different config on mine which I think yields 32 red posts. See edited pic. On mine, both side of the spinner are on a red post, and there is an additional red post on the left side. However on mine the very upper post by the USA lanes is a metal post with the bumper (which makes sense as this is where the launched balls go).
Randy
[quoted image]

looks right. So 34 post total.

#4377 4 months ago

The theme on this game and how chill the sound is really make it an enjoyable pin.

Definitely a cool game that would be fun to own someday

#4378 4 months ago

Need some help. My machine will not detect the ball in the trough so it will not start a game. If I push them over to the 3 rollover switches manually in the trough it will start a game as it detects all three balls. When in test mode, the game isn’t detecting the cherry switch depressed that determines end of ball and no signs of broken wires. I can’t seem to determine the switch for sure and was wondering if anyone knew.

I THINK this will resolve my issue with my machine. Hopefully.

Is this switch compatible should I get replacement diode? Any idea which one to get?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12133-12

Thank you in advance!

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#4379 4 months ago

I would test the switch for continuity. They almost never fail. I’m guessing it a harness or connector issue.

#4380 4 months ago
Quoted from BrewersArcade:

When in test mode, the game isn’t detecting the cherry switch depressed that determines end of ball and no signs of broken wires.

Just curious, does the coil fire in solenoid test mode for the outhole? The transistor for the outhole is Q47. Using a voltmeter, did you already verify the diode is good? For the switch, can you get continuity once the switch is made by just using your finger? If this works, you may just need to adjust the switch so the ball will make it register. If not, I would replace the switch. Looks like the one you chose would work. I would replace the diode anyway with new if possible since it may have been in the machine since 1984!

#4381 4 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Just curious, does the coil fire in solenoid test mode for the outhole? The transistor for the outhole is Q47. Using a voltmeter, did you already verify the diode is good? For the switch, can you get continuity once the switch is made by just using your finger? If this works, you may just need to adjust the switch so the ball will make it register. If not, I would replace the switch. Looks like the one you chose would work. I would replace the diode anyway with new if possible since it may have been in the machine since 1984!

So the diode on the switch test good and I can get continuity on the switch when it is engaged and using a multimeter so adjusting won’t make a difference it seems. Pushing it manually does not engage the coil.
Q47 would be on the MPu right? I haven’t gotten into the backbox yet because my key doesn’t seem to work so I’ve been avoiding it ha.

I did buy a new switch just in case but if it’s getting continuity when engaged I assume it’s prob wishful thinking that it’ll fix it.

#4382 4 months ago

During solenoid test, does the outhole coil #1 fire? Page 14 in the manual tells you what connectors are for this solenoid. Since you have yet to open the backbox, it could be a simple wire off a connector. Had that on a Whirlwind I was troubleshooting.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2260/Williams_1984_Space_Shuttle_Instruction_Manual_dated_Nov_3_1984_with_schematics.pdf

#4383 4 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

During solenoid test, does the outhole coil #1 fire? Page 14 in the manual tells you what connectors are for this solenoid. Since you have yet to open the backbox, it could be a simple wire off a connector. Had that on a Whirlwind I was troubleshooting.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2260/Williams_1984_Space_Shuttle_Instruction_Manual_dated_Nov_3_1984_with_schematics.pdf

Finally got the backglass off after having to drill out the lock. Yes outhole solenoid fires.

#4384 4 months ago

Reseated connectors below playfield and in the backbox to no avail. Board showing no errors.

So close to fixing this but just can’t end the outhole switch to register for end of ball.

-Test mode shows solenoid under apron fires fine.

-Diode on cherry switch for outhole test fine

-Cherry switch shows continuity when depressed but does not register when depressed in test mode for the switches

-I can start a game if all three balls are in the trough. Just when a ball drains the switch doesn’t register even though I can verify it’s clicking when pushing with my finger or the ball is sitting on it.

During gameplay everything is working well if I manually have the balls moved over in the trough under the three rollover switches.

Just can’t seem to figure it out!

#4385 4 months ago

Go into switch test mode. This will eliminate a possible board switch errror. Just use a wire to jump1J8 pin2 Over to 1j10 pin9. This should activate switch 09.
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1 week later
#4386 4 months ago

I wanted to post in this group. Does anyone have any "new" or "newer" Pop Bumper Caps for Space Shuttle?
Every parts site that I have to does not have any in stock. Please DM me if you have some for sale/trade.

Thanks!

(Yes, I see the thread has everyone using newer caps. Just seeing if I can find the originals anywhere first.)

#4387 4 months ago
Quoted from pindel:

Go into switch test mode. This will eliminate a possible board switch errror. Just use a wire to jump1J8 pin2 Over to 1j10 pin9. This should activate switch 09.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Will try this thank you! I did replace the cherry switch for the outhole with no luck so jumpering on the board is the next phase. If it does activate the switch does that mean I have a MPU board issue?

#4388 4 months ago
Quoted from BrewersArcade:

Will try this thank you! I did replace the cherry switch for the outhole with no luck so jumpering on the board is the next phase. If it does activate the switch does that mean I have a MPU board issue?

If you see your switch #9 on the display that means the board is fine. You would need to follow the wires to the switch. It would likely be the harness connection or Molex board plug.

#4389 4 months ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Does anyone have any "new" or "newer" Pop Bumper Caps for Space Shuttle?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7444-535

Marco has them in stock.

#4390 4 months ago

Ah bless you! I must have missed them there.

Thanks!

#4391 4 months ago

I am looking for a nice SS around the Chicago/Madison area.

Thanks.

#4392 4 months ago

My SS restoration is coming along with my expert playfield swap master currently working on the new playfield. Just ordered new, black, glossy wood rails for it. I am installing a new set of plastics, pop caps, etc., and many of the old/original parts are in good shape and useful. Happy to donate anything someone needs. I should have a box of extra parts in a few weeks. PM me if you are working on one or plan to.

#4393 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

My SS restoration is coming along with my expert playfield swap master currently working on the new playfield. Just ordered new, black, glossy wood rails for it. I am installing a new set of plastics, pop caps, etc., and many of the old/original parts are in good shape and useful. Happy to donate anything someone needs. I should have a box of extra parts in a few weeks. PM me if you are working on one or plan to.

PM sent to Pinkitten! Thanks for posting this!

#4394 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

My SS restoration is coming along with my expert playfield swap master currently working on the new playfield. Just ordered new, black, glossy wood rails for it. I am installing a new set of plastics, pop caps, etc., and many of the old/original parts are in good shape and useful. Happy to donate anything someone needs. I should have a box of extra parts in a few weeks. PM me if you are working on one or plan to.

Can't wait to see this!

1 week later
#4395 3 months ago

Space Shuttle Ramp

Do the new thicker replacement ramps for Space Shuttle need modding (shaving the plastic) ? If it is used as is won't it create a bump at the entrance because of the extra thickness? I certainly don't want to shave the playfield itself to lower the height of the ramp where it meets the playfield. I know the metal flap will mitigate the issue some what but I wanted to see if I could get some feedback from those of you who have installed the new ramp. Can you get a natural roll without modding the ramp or the playfield?

Kramertheman

#4396 3 months ago
Quoted from Kramertheman:

Space Shuttle Ramp
Do the new thicker replacement ramps for Space Shuttle need modding (shaving the plastic) ? If it is used as is won't it create a bump at the entrance because of the extra thickness? I certainly don't want to shave the playfield itself to lower the height of the ramp where it meets the playfield. I know the metal flap will mitigate the issue some what but I wanted to see if I could get some feedback from those of you who have installed the new ramp. Can you get a natural roll without modding the ramp or the playfield?
Kramertheman

I replaced my ramp and didn’t have to do anything. Ball rolls even smoother up it since it has a nice, modern style flap versus that old metal bar thing.

1 week later
#4397 3 months ago

Any recommendations on the type of paint to use to paint the nose of the replacement plastic shuttle gray? I think it would look better and match the original (and the actual shuttle).

#4398 3 months ago
Quoted from rwredmon:

Any recommendations on the type of paint to use to paint the nose of the replacement plastic shuttle gray? I think it would look better and match the original (and the actual shuttle).

I used grey Testors enamel model paint on mine.

#4399 3 months ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I installed the MRS under the ramp and it works great.
[quoted image]
So glad the whole goofy switch in the shuttle can be eliminated.
After reinstalling the ramp and shuttle I was actually able to play a few games!!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Just need to clean the tape residue off the apron from where someone taped in the cards. Then it’ll be ready to install the glass and finally christen it with installing the new replacement backglass.
I also had to do some repair on the System 9 MPU that I'll have to document here as well.

I get asked via PM every now and then about the MRS switch under the ramp. Here is the post with photos that show where I put it.

#4400 3 months ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I get asked via PM every now and then about the MRS switch under the ramp. Here is the post with photos that show where I put it.

I initially put my MRS ramp switch too low and the pop bumper magnetism/firing was enough to trigger the ramp switch.

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