Keep it. Looks great!

I have a couple of stuck on coils I was hoping for some help on: "Left kicker" and "right jet bumper" is what they are called per the manual.

Wanted to focus on left kicker first.

My tests so far, did these with the machine off:

Q75 (TIP122) - Continuity mode on DMM - black to ground, red to tab with hole, no continuity. I tested this in diode mode and the readings I got gave me a .4 to .6 as well, but I can't remember exactly which lead went where.

Q74 (2N4401) - Diode mode on DMM - red on center, black to right and left both measure between .4 and .6

With the machine on briefly, I went to the U6 7402 IC and tested voltage:

u6 pin2 - 5v
u6 pin3 - 200mv
u6 pin1 - 200mv

So on u6, i'm seeing a 1 + 0 = 1, if you NOR that, it's 0 which explains the 200mv on pin1.

For the switches for the left kicker, there is voltage to the power wire side (blue), no voltage on the opposite side of the switch. Turned off there is no continuity between the power and ground side. I do have continuity from the non-power side to ground.

I'm kind of stuck on how to troubleshoot this issue. It doesn't look like the leaf switches are shorted and triggering the coil and it seems like the transistor and pre-driver are ok. I think maybe u6 is bad, I don't have a replacement so I went ahead and ordered sockets and replacement TI 7402s from digikey as I heard Marco sends 74LS02 which are low current replacements (They have two options for 7402, one is definitely 74LS, the #7402 have 74LS02 in parenthesis).

That PF is absolutely beautiful! You may be setting yourself up for disappointment if you try to make it better. I wish I had a picture of my 1st Space Shuttle. It was down to bare wood in most places -- so ugly, the poor thing was played to death.

I'm all for restorations and having owner satisfaction with their collection. If you decide to go ahead with the swap, I can even make your restoration cheaper and I would buy that old playfield from you. My playfield is subject to bare wood spots and haven't been able to find a new one.

Ok, I will be sure to let you know which way I go with this. I'm in Winston Salem NC, not sure on your location if you would drive down to get it, but at least I would already have a box from the new playfield so I could ship it to you if I decide to replace it.

No problem, I would be looking for shipping but do whats best for you and no rush, my game plays great and would have to take it down for the swap. I definitely love the challenge this game offers, its a keeper.

Thank you for selling me your extra ..

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Just ordered this on eBay. Mine is warped and will be a great replacement. 5 left on eBay!

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That looks great, but it looks like it glares a little on the PF glass. I wonder if a 'greyer' version might not glare so much.

interconnect : Did you found what you need ?
On my side, no answer from your seller in Suisse.
But I have found 2 bell assemblies in USA. One is already in shipment for me in France. The other is waiting for you if you need.

Hi Kryss, really? I’m surprised he didn’t answer; he answered when Marcel (@mastercello) inquired.

No I did not find one yet. I actually found one on eBay, but it’s too expensive. Seller is wanting $85. What is the one you found? How much? Please send me a PM when you get a chance. Thank you for letting me know.

What about something like this...
ebay.com link: itm

bell (resized).jpg

Great quality! This is going to be nice in the backbox.

image (resized).jpg

I have no idea if that'd actually work. This guy is selling what we need... just really expensive:

ebay.com link: itm

Understood. It would be something you could try as a last resort. As long as the coil impedance is about the same, it should work. But I get it. It could be risky.

Yeah I think if the coil had the roughly the same resistance it might work. Good idea. There are bells from other games that might work as well.

That field is fantastic. don't screw it up.

Hello !

I search since a couple of hours and found nothing for those questions:
What are the differences between each ROM for Space Shuttle ?

Mine is actually L-6 but the last (and only one ?) available at this time is L-7

Is it necessary to change sound ROMS also ?

Thanks in advance !

I’m not sure, but you should copy that ROM and upload it to IPDB. Someone might want to dissect that. I guess others may find it useful too. If you don’t have a ROM burner, I could do it for you. I could also burn you a set of upgraded ROMs too. Just PM me if you’re interested.

Thank you for your proposal. That's really nice.
My question is just to know the changes between each stage of ROM.
I have found this information for some others pinballs, but not for the Williams Space Shuttle.

I have to tell you a fantastic story.
As you know, I was searching a bell assembly for my Space Shuttle. I have write to a society who tell my to write to an other... and finally somebody tell me to put an ads on a website. I done it.
And I have wait.
Few days later, here the entire answer I received from a guy:
"I have what you need"

At that time, I think that it could be cool if it's not a joke. But no, I was wrong, "cool" was not enough. In reality, it has been unbelievable because few mails later, that guy tell me that he gives me the bell FOR FREE and that he found a way to send it FOR FREE to my friend who live in America.
He done it.
My friend received it.
One week later, an american colleague bring the part with him for a business travel on my site, in France.
Yesterday, he gave me the packet.
Inside, there was the bell assembly.
Few hours later, I came back to home and fitted the bell.

It works great.

It's as fun as noisy !

To conclude this story, Thanks to everyone here for your advice. Thanks also to Pinside.

But above all, I don't know how to thank you Lmjdad my unknown friend. I will never forget what you have done for me. You proof that the good pinball spirit still remains and can't be killed.

Fantastic story. Thank you for taking the time to share.

Long live the pinball spirit!

Fantastic!

Awesome story. I’ve learned there are some awesome people on here. Some have helped me tremendously and one even sent me a loaner MPU to use until the one I ordered was built. Incredible. I always try to help other as much as I can… especially us Shuttle owners! Thanks to you too Kryss, for helping me trying to find a bell as well!

In case you aren’t aware DumbAss here in pinside has a system 9 board. I’m building one and the moment for a shuttle I have. If anyone needs the bom I’m happy to share what I used. Here’s a few pics.

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Hi everybody! That's my coin door.. very interesting to know that my machine came from Germany. But I need your help.. I'm trying to fix cut wires. The wires colours don't match the manual so it seems a bit hard..
I fixed the coil (Brown and Red wires), also the two lamps (Yellow and Yellow/black wires) but.. the coil starts to operate after approx 5 sec after the power on. Is it correct? Then, another trouble about coin door GI.. when the main GI relay is shut down, the coin door lamps also shut down. Is this normal?
Could someone take a picture for me of inside cabling? It remains the slam tilt..

IMG_20230225_180423 (resized).jpg

What coil? The coin lockout? Just my opinion, but that is the first thing I disable and bypass when I get a game.

Yes is the answer to both of your questions.

You're right, but I would like to have all in order... I hate seeing cut cables in sight

Many thanks!

Two issues remain to answer:
1) Slam tilt connected. Working on test mode (#7) but once closed during attract mode, a brief "beep" from the speaker and the insert lights freeze for a while but nothing more... is this normal? I have always seen that the pinball usually blocks totally for a few seconds. Also the playfield slam tilt.. works in test mode but during attract mode nothing happens if closed...
2) Everytime I power on the machine, a coil is fired. From diagnostic test everything works fine, I mean all solenoids and switches are 100% working..
Any suggestion? Thanks guys and have a nice day!!!

Have you rebuilt the power supply? Caps go bad.

Yes! Power board recapped and new connectors.
Also on the MPU I've rebuilt all the connectors, new sockets, new capacitors and some transistors/IC for dead solenoids and switch matrix columns..
Usually the coils which are fired are a bumper or the shield coil (between flippers)
Then,.. what happens on your Space Shuttle doing these test closing the slam switches?

The cpu has a blanking signal... is that working correctly?
No lamps or solenoids should be on when the game is first turned on.

Blanking is low for a while at power on then High +3,5V.
On U22 the readings with logic probe are
P1 low, P2 High/pulse, P3 High, P4 High
P5 High, P6 ///, P7 High, P8 High
P6 is High at power then measure +1,34V.
All is fully working. I read that System11 has a similar issue with knocker at power on.. the sys9 board has the same structure so.. could be the same? A doubt.. I don't think WMS engineers and WMS itself could release a machine with this problem (also poor grounding is a problem but they put them on the market )

I’m redoing my backbox light panel and debating of just transferring everything over or all new parts. Does anyone know what light sockets I should order and wire for this project. It doesn’t really give any part numbers in the manual from what I remember.

Another question my pinball friends!!!
Just cabled the coin door. All the switches are ok in diagnostic mode but during attract mode the slam switch (#7) doesn't work properly.. I mean, if closed by hand the speaker do a brief "beep" and display has a sort of garbage, but just for a while.
I used to see that the pinball would freeze once closed the switch..

A bell was listed today if the folks who were looking for a bell still need it:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/153919

FINALLY picked up a Space Shuttle !! YAY ! 2 problems ... (I do not SEE any "fried" parts on the MPU)

Problem #1 - The "2nd" switch in center ramp doesn't seem to be working (multi ball doesn't happen ... game says "aborted" and the pop-up ball saver between flippers goes down) .... Also, the Stop and Score doesn't work ... (it just keeps cycling until it times out) ... The solenoids on the multi ball kick out holes work (just not when they should to start multi ball) ... I cleaned the 2nd switch and still nothing .... No "errors" when do Switch Test on diagnostics ...

Problem #2 - The top 1/3 of the Bonus Lights do Not light up at all (8,000 to 60,000) ... These light are one complete column on the Lamp Matrix table (column 8 ) ... The lights that do light up appear to be working correctly (even in attract mode they light up and do their part of spelling "space shuttle" ...

Any help would be appreciated !!!

Did you go into switch test mode and see if the second switch is registering with the MPU as closed when you activate it? That would be where I start. If it doesn't, I'd test continuity from the connector (plug) where the switch connects to the MPU and see if the wiring and switch is good first. If you get continuity it's something on the MPU side. Manual has good schematics for the board and plugs (ipdb.org)

If the second switch is not triggered you'll hear the "Abort" call out and no multiball. Sounds like you know that .

Yeah I saw that. Seller contacted me from my wanted ad as well. $95 plus shipping is insane! I want one, but not at that price. That’s nuts.

I will do the switch test again and see if it registers as "closed" when manually activating the switch .. .Thanks !

Check for a broken common yellow jumper wire on the lamp strip associated with the lamps....

AAAAAH ... Will do ... Should have time to check today ... and will report back !! THANK YOU !!

Reporting back >> No loose or disconnected wires on the Bonus Lights sockets ... I checked the diodes (with them still soldered in place) ... Got similar #'s in both directions on all the diodes (no power going thru diodes in one direction ... pretty similar #'s in other direction) ...

If I ran a jumper from one of the lights that is working to one that isn't >> would that prove anything? (and could I do damage to any of the circuits/components ?) ... If OK > Do I run a jumper from the bare wire of one of the working lights to a bare wire from one of the not working lights ? or from the tab on the sockets ? Guessing that will only confirm that the sockets and light bulbs are OK but won't tell why the top group of lights isn't lighting ...?? ... Is it likely it is a bad component (transistor?) on the MPU that controls the lights since all the lights that don't work are in same Column on the lamp matrix ??

In test mode > the switch does NOT register closed when I manually activate it ... Just to be sure I was "doing it right" > I manually activated some of other switches and they did register closed ... Is their a diode on that switch ? Can I just unscrew the 2 screws holding the switch in the ramp Or do I have to remove the ramp to check out the switch ?? (Not sure if their are Nuts on screws holding switch in place ... or if those 2 screws thread right into switch...?)

Should be able to set your multimeter to continuity, put the leads on opposite sides of the switch and then push the switch together and hear beeping.

Lower Ball trough column is 1J8-2 (Labeled 1J8 on the MPU board) per the manual which the 1P8-2 plug is plugged into. That wire in the plug goes to the switch itself on the playfield. Similar to the above test, you can use your multimeter to touch one lead to the 1P8-2 wire in the backbox connector and the other lead to the same wire where it connects to the switch.

Do the same for the row, 1J10-5 / 1P10-5. Both of those tests would prove out your wiring to both sides of the switch and the physical switch.

That's just the lower trough switch.

Middle is:

1J8-2
1J10-4

Top is:

1J8-2
1J10-3

You shouldn't need to remove anything to test. Just pull down on the wire finger from the bottom, or push the switch together that you can see with your finger.

Grab yourself a manual from ipdb.org if you haven't already so you can see the locations of the switches.

justler THANKS for the detailed instructions ...

I did look at manual on IPDB before (I will buy one from PBR when I get my order together with rubber rings and any other parts I need) ... I couldn't find "Long Ramp Upper Switch/SW32" in any of the schematics ... but now I see it on Page 18 (Backbox Wiring Diagram) at 1J10 "Switch Row" ...

Switch 32 is under the ramp ... so I will just remove ramp (and clean and wax under it) and make sure the wires are connected to switch and switch is working ... Will try to do that later this afternoon and report back ... THANKS AGAIN !!

O.K. I got a copy of the lamp chart.
Strobe #8 is out. yel-gry wire [1J7-9] could be bad/loose IDC connection, or
broken wire/wires to the lamp strips sockets...or bad TIP42(Q30) or associated
components. eg.27ohm 2W resistor.

Sorry, for some reason my brain has been on trough switches! You shouldn't need to pull the ramp to trigger the second/right ramp switch. There is a wire guide that the ball pushes forward that pulls the switch up and closed. It should be screwed right into the ramp. If you take your multimeter and touch one lead to the top switch leaf and the other to the 1P plug (Might need to do 1P8 and 1P10 in case the top is on 8 or 10) and it beeps, that proves out one side of the switch. Lead to the bottom leaf to the other and it beeps it proves out the other side. Touch multimeter probes to each side of the leaf switch leaf then closing it confirms the switch has continuity through the contacts at least.

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THANK YOU !!! I will check those out !!! Do you think it could be the ROM chips ? I will check out connectors and wires ... ROM chips are pretty cheap ... Will check solder joints on that connector (if I have to take board out for some other reason ... kind of hate to pull out board and maybe make other problems ...LOL) ...

justler Not getting a reading (consistently) when touching MM probes to both switch leaves ... I cleaned switch (best I could) ... Need to clean under ramp anyway (can feel gritty dust and debris under it) so will pull ramp and clean switch and check adjustment ... Hopefully that is the problem !! THANKS !