(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!

By E_N_3

8 years ago


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  • 4,057 posts
  • 294 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Whirlpinned
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There are 4,057 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 82.
#4051 10 days ago
Quoted from PogoFX:

Thanks in advance for a little help with sound buzzing. I get a pretty loud hum as the pin cycles through the lights in between games. Since I need to pull the Sys 9 board and replace a power transistor for a pop bumper, I was going to replace several of the radial capacitors on the lower right of the board (C2,5,7,24,53). I know old caps can be one source of the problem.
But I've since discovered that the culprit for about 95% of the buzzing. It occurs when the pop bumper lights illuminate through the sequence. They had been replace by a previous owner with LED's (I think BriteCaps EVO). If I pull these lights out, it eliminates the 95% of the buzzing or humming.
So my question is, does this change my approach? Would different lights here fix the issue? Maybe someone can chime in that has these lights. I'll probably still go ahead and replace the caps, but might put that off since I don't have those on hand yet if the lights are the culprit.
Also if I unplug the sound board (Swemmer 147-4-19) the buzzing stops. Not sure if that adds anything, but thought I'd mention that also since that's where I started my troubleshooting.[quoted image]

Those multi led super brite pop bumper boards always cause buzzing in my past experience. The lighting in my SS always causes some level of hum, much less with led because it draws much less current. My personal thought is resistance in the old dirty wire harness connectors. When I first got my space shuttle the speaker hum was awful and would oscillate with the attract mode lighting sequence. After cleaning and tightening all the wire harnesses it seemed to get rid of the hum almost completely. After about 6 months to a year the hum returned somewhat but at a much more tolerable level. Cleaning the pins and connectors with contact cleaner and tightening the connectors on the wire harnesses seem to help dramatically. Monkeying around tightening and loosening and lifting the soundboard from the back box had no effect whatsoever

#4052 10 days ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Those multi led super brite pop bumper boards always cause buzzing in my past experience. The lighting in my SS always causes some level of hum, much less with led because it draws much less current. My personal thought is resistance in the old dirty wire harness connectors. When I first got my space shuttle the speaker hum was awful and would oscillate with the attract mode lighting sequence. After cleaning and tightening all the wire harnesses it seemed to get rid of the hum almost completely. After about 6 months to a year the hum returned somewhat but at a much more tolerable level. Cleaning the pins and connectors with contact cleaner and tightening the connectors on the wire harnesses seem to help dramatically. Monkeying around tightening and loosening and lifting the soundboard from the back box had no effect whatsoever

Thanks. Good info. I'll clean the contacts when I lift the board for my transistor repair. Yep, I fooled around tightening and lifting the sound board also to no avail. Honestly its not noticeable while playing, only when the game is sitting idle that you really hear it.

So what's the secret to removing the connectors from the Sys 9 board???? I can't get these things off. I tried inserting a little piece of plastic I made to lift the clips, but I can't get these things to budge. I'm afraid of wrecking the clips. I can see a few are already broken here and there. What's the technique or tool to use? I wasn't expecting this to slow me down.

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#4053 10 days ago
Quoted from PogoFX:

Thanks. Good info. I'll clean the contacts when I lift the board for my transistor repair. Yep, I fooled around tightening and lifting the sound board also to no avail. Honestly its not noticeable while playing, only when the game is sitting idle that you really hear it.
So what's the secret to removing the connectors from the Sys 9 board???? I can't get these things off. I tried inserting a little piece of plastic I made to lift the clips, but I can't get these things to budge. I'm afraid of wrecking the clips. I can see a few are already broken here and there. What's the technique or tool to use? I wasn't expecting this to slow me down.[quoted image]

Same thing I dealt with when I first got mine. Later I realized that you can just wiggle them out… left to right. Just be careful you don’t do it too much and bend the pins. Also, it’s a good idea to re-flow the solder on all the pins/connectors at the edges of the board. Over time, you can get cold (broken) solder joints on the pins from pulling the connectors on and off, especially the pins at the very ends of the connector headers.

#4054 10 days ago
Quoted from interconnect:

Same thing I dealt with when I first got mine. Later I realized that you can just wiggle them out… left to right. Just be careful you don’t do it too much and bend the pins. Also, it’s a good idea to re-flow the solder on all the pins/connectors at the edges of the board. Over time, you can get cold (broken) solder joints on the pins from pulling the connectors on and off, especially the pins at the very ends of the connector headers.

Thanks, that got it. It was an SOB but eventually got it moving. I was a little worried to keep at it at first since I wasn't sure the clips would release. A very tiny flat head under one side to give it a nudge helped.

#4055 4 days ago

Have finished the restoration of my Space Shuttle, hit the start button and played my first game of Space Shuttle in 35 years

Have an enquiry though

When I first got the machine, while I couldn't play a game I was able to operate the flippers.....the flipper travel seems to great to me, meaning the flippers seemed to Max out to high

I've seen on ther games, that on the flipper assembly bracket under the playfield, that there is a little rubber stopper that the the plunger on the coil would go back to rest position......this machine didn't have them, so I put some in this machine, but playing the game last night.....the flipper Max height when activated seems too low, flippers also seem a little weak, but that may just require a stop switch adjustment

Wondering if people can enlighten me on whether these rubber stoppers are actually supposed to be present on this machine?

#4056 4 days ago

Have another issue, when I lock a ball it is not launching the next ball, I have exactly the same behaviour as in this thread

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-lock-issue#postbox

Except I've checked closely, and all switches in the ball trough are wired as per manual, and all working at the right time......I can manually eject next ball and multiball will start once rounding the ramp....so all that is working fine though

Only thing that makes me wonder though that when doing playfield swap I found switches 11 and 12 were around the wrong way, but should only need to see a ball in switch 10 to launch next ball

Any ideas?

This other thread the fella said switch 12 is closest to the shooter lane....but in my machine and in manual it shows switch 10 closest to shooter lane, not making sence

Well.....hmm....my switches are wired as the manual says, with switch 10 closest to shooter lane, then switch 11, then switch 12 the third one along....however, discovered if I start a game, grab the ball, then with my finger mover the 2 balls in the trough back to cover switch 11 and 12......throw the ball in my hand into the lock.....it will then try to launch a ball......same again, if I take the next ball, told the last ball over switch 12, the third one back from shooter lane, throw ball in lock, it will try to launch the next ball.....

Wierd

Added 5 days ago:

EDIT......ignore this post......thread I linked to is correct, switch 12 must be closed to launch next ball after lock.....manual shows switch 10 as being closest to shooter lane, but this is not correct, switch 12 must be closest to shooter lane

#4057 4 days ago
Quoted from Ricbec:

Have finished the restoration of my Space Shuttle, hit the start button and played my first game of Space Shuttle in 35 years
Have an enquiry though
When I first got the machine, while I couldn't play a game I was able to operate the flippers.....the flipper travel seems to great to me, meaning the flippers seemed to Max out to high
I've seen on ther games, that on the flipper assembly bracket under the playfield, that there is a little rubber stopper that the the plunger on the coil would go back to rest position......this machine didn't have them, so I put some in this machine, but playing the game last night.....the flipper Max height when activated seems too low, flippers also seem a little weak, but that may just require a stop switch adjustment
Wondering if people can enlighten me on whether these rubber stoppers are actually supposed to be present on this machine?

I found the same issue with the flippers. I took the rubber off the bracket and it made for better flipper travel. It makes it up the ramp where as before it didn't very well but it could have been due to the degree I have it at. I find no rubber gives it enough power to make the ramp at a steeper degree. Either way I would recommend taking off the rubber.

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