Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Your gate might just be sticking, the vibration from The flipper is enough to let it loose.

Quoted from interconnect:

That's what I thought, however it doesn't appear to have a mechanical bind. When I let the ball drain, the gate closes automatically, but when I drop the three targets there is a tiny bit of resistance there. If I just pull on the gate ever so slightly, it'll open up and if I manually open and close it and is smooth with no binding or sticking. Really weird. I've uploaded a video to YouTube to show what I mean:

Quoted from Apinjunkie:

It's a little weird, but that's the shuttle for you. I would check the assembly underneath, see if there is any wear marks where maybe it's getting hung up. Maybe see if you can tighten up that spring if need be.[quoted image]

Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Your gate might just be sticking, the vibration from The flipper is enough to let it loose.

Quoted from kryss63:

That's perfectly right.
I had the same issue with my gate some months ago.
I cleaned all the moving parts and now it's ok without using the right flipper.

Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Here's an added benefit of clear pop bumper skirts. So we all get it's essential that the tip of the skirt be dead center of the spoon, to get the most out of your pops. That can often be difficult to tell even if your nose is pressed right up next to it. With the clear skirts, if you backlight them they act like a big fiber optic, carrying the light right to the tip,which in turn ,points like a spotlight right through the spoon taking the guesswork out of where that tip is actually touching.
Pic shows tip is hare to the right[quoted image]

Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

Space Shuttle is my first Williams System 9 game. Quick question about rebuilding the pop bumpers: what is the proper adjustment of the SCORING SWITCH on each pop bumper? Should the scoring switch close when the solenoid armature moves a little… or when it moves a lot?

Quoted from dr_spidey:

Replace the coil sleeves
And a good cleaning.

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

There's only one coil here, with a plate that lifts the targets back up. The whole mech (drop targets, coil, switches) looks pretty clean and everything operates smoothly with no resistance, so it may not be mechanical. I'll do some additional cleaning anyway, but I'm curious if anyone else has run into this and/or has other suggestions?
Might start another thread just to ping other non-shuttle-owner techie types involved too. Hoping to get this resolved before the weekend if I can. Might order replacement switches in the meantime.

Quoted from Charles_Kline:

It kinda seems like a mechanical issue of the targets are not latching in the up position but when you bumped the back target and it reset right away (shouldn't do that) it tells me switch adjustment issue.

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Yeah that threw me too (the back target resetting on its own), as it usually doesn't do that. I've got new switches on order but will tinker with them in the meantime.

Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I can't rememver is there is an end of stroke switch on that or not, but watching the video in 1/4 speed its apparent that the targets are only getting half of the way up when they drop again and get sent back up. It's like the power to the coil is being interrupted like an EOS switch is being opened too soon. If there is not an EOS (i've been working on a lot of EMs lately so there very well may not be one here) then I would look at wiring to the coil, you may have a nearly broken wire that is loosing contact when the coil shakes. Or its possible the driver on the board is half dying and flaking out when the coil is drawing full juice.
Let us know what you find out.

Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I can't rememver is there is an end of stroke switch on that or not, but watching the video in 1/4 speed its apparent that the targets are only getting half of the way up when they drop again and get sent back up. It's like the power to the coil is being interrupted like an EOS switch is being opened too soon. If there is not an EOS (i've been working on a lot of EMs lately so there very well may not be one here) then I would look at wiring to the coil, you may have a nearly broken wire that is loosing contact when the coil shakes. Or its possible the driver on the board is half dying and flaking out when the coil is drawing full juice.
Let us know what you find out.

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

That's a really great observation! If power were interrupted, the coil would stop pushing the bank up, and so the targets would get pulled back down by their springs, which would trigger the switches again, telling the game to fire the coil again. So this is definitely a plausible explanation. (There is no EOS switch for the reset bracket, btw.) In my troubleshooting I had reflowed the solder on the switches, but not the coil. I'll look more closely at the coil wires and resolder and get back to you.

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Cautiously optimistic update: I reflowed the solder on the coil lugs and it's definitely working much more reliably. I then had a few incidences (when testnig them one at a time) where one particular target (the left one) didn't seem to register or seemed to have a 'delay', so I made an adjustment to that switch and it appears to be behaving properly for now.
After that, I went through several cycles of strafing them 10+ times and they responded properyl each time. Also ran several cycles (in all possible orders) of one at a time, and they're behaving properly also. I'll put several games on it later tonight, to give it a full shakedown, and will report back again.
Great eyes, Charles_Kline !

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Played several games on it tonight and had zero issues with the drop targets. No stutters, value increasing one step at a time, resetting properly when strafed or when hit one at a time. I'll play a few more times over the next couple days just to be sure, but it's looking like we got this one sorted out!
Thanks so much for the help -- that was a great catch and another useful experience to file away in the ol' memory bank!

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Hey guys, having an annoying issue with my drop targets, when you strafe all three sometimes they jump and/or trigger multiple times. Adjusted the switches and reflowed solder, no dice. Any suggestions?

Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

I have this exact same problem intermittently on my pinbot drop target bank and taxi Lola drop. Let me know if you find a definitive solution. Thanks!

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Reflowing the solder on the reset coil lugs seemed to do it -- https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/drop-target-bank-reset-stutters-repeats-1984-space-shuttle

Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Thanks! I'm going to do this.

Quoted from Viggin900:

I have a question. I just did a flipper rebuild. I noticed the lane change isn't working. Does that switch come from the right flipper or the button? Not sure what could have changed?

Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I agree, the mirror has the look like “chrome” spray paint and not perfect mirror.

Quoted from Chisel:

I recently picked up a Shuttle glass from Shay and it's beautifully mirrored and looks great. I've never seen a CPR up close but the Shay is mirrored for sure.

Quoted from newovad:

The CPR is bad. When I shine a light on it on only appears mirrored because of the shine of the glass. It looks like matte spray paint with no lights on it.
[quoted image]

Quoted from newovad:

The CPR is bad. When I shine a light on it on only appears mirrored because of the shine of the glass. It looks like matte spray paint with no lights on it.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Chisel:

Here’s my Shay. [quoted image]

Quoted from MisterScappy:

Shay looks the best of what I've seen so far. Still haven't figured out if the glass from PPS or Marco is mirrored or who it's made by.

Quoted from jk:

Hello, I’m wondering if anyone can make the topper feet/stand for a reasonable price with lettermail shipping to me in Canada? The ones on Ebay to display the topper are crazy expensive. It’s annoying CPR doesn’t include them with their plastics set. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from dzorbas:

PPS licenses CPR to allow them to produce B/W items. I'm sure that PPS and Marcos are selling CPR products. I'm not exactly sure what process CPR is using vs. what Shay does. There's a good chance it is different but all the CPR glasses I have seen look fine.

I think the reason that they aren't included is because the sign was designed to be held in place using 2 small "L" brackets and screws. It would probably be cheaper for you to go to Home Depot or Canadian Tire and get the hardware you need to do it this way. And the sign would not fall off if you nudge the game too much.
You could always do this...
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Quoted from dzorbas:

PPS licenses CPR to allow them to produce B/W items. I'm sure that PPS and Marcos are selling CPR products. I'm not exactly sure what process CPR is using vs. what Shay does. There's a good chance it is different but all the CPR glasses I have seen look fine.

I think the reason that they aren't included is because the sign was designed to be held in place using 2 small "L" brackets and screws. It would probably be cheaper for you to go to Home Depot or Canadian Tire and get the hardware you need to do it this way. And the sign would not fall off if you nudge the game too much.
You could always do this...
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Quoted from Chisel:

Anyone have a half decent usable shuttle toy they could sell me cheap? Maybe you replaced your discolored one? I'm not ready for a new one, I want to do a hard top first and mine is now broken where the wire form rests... I'll buy a new one eventually but would like to get by for now. I guess I can always gorilla glue some fix on there with a piece of plastic if need be.
Thanks

Quoted from jk:

Hello, I’m wondering if anyone can make the topper feet/stand for a reasonable price with lettermail shipping to me in Canada? The ones on Ebay to display the topper are crazy expensive. It’s annoying CPR doesn’t include them with their plastics set. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from PogoFX:

Thanks in advance for a little help with sound buzzing. I get a pretty loud hum as the pin cycles through the lights in between games. Since I need to pull the Sys 9 board and replace a power transistor for a pop bumper, I was going to replace several of the radial capacitors on the lower right of the board (C2,5,7,24,53). I know old caps can be one source of the problem.
But I've since discovered that the culprit for about 95% of the buzzing. It occurs when the pop bumper lights illuminate through the sequence. They had been replace by a previous owner with LED's (I think BriteCaps EVO). If I pull these lights out, it eliminates the 95% of the buzzing or humming.
So my question is, does this change my approach? Would different lights here fix the issue? Maybe someone can chime in that has these lights. I'll probably still go ahead and replace the caps, but might put that off since I don't have those on hand yet if the lights are the culprit.
Also if I unplug the sound board (Swemmer 147-4-19) the buzzing stops. Not sure if that adds anything, but thought I'd mention that also since that's where I started my troubleshooting.[quoted image]

Quoted from Charles_Kline:

Take out the buzz causing LEDs.

Quoted from PogoFX:

Is there an LED replacement that's better or is this typical of this style? Definitely could just take them out, but wondering if they are specifically the problem or just emphasizing another issue like the caps. I've gone through the grounds pretty well. The rest of lights are LED's and I get very little buzz but it's just these that seem to be the issue. If there's a better choice that folks have good luck with, I'll switch. Thanks, still learning.

Quoted from interconnect:

I put red LEDs in my pop bumpers and it looks really nice; I don't think you really need anything more than that! They were from Pinball Life (premium ghostbuster, bayonet, red). No buzzing either.

Quoted from PogoFX:

Is there an LED replacement that's better or is this typical of this style? Definitely could just take them out, but wondering if they are specifically the problem or just emphasizing another issue like the caps. I've gone through the grounds pretty well. The rest of lights are LED's and I get very little buzz but it's just these that seem to be the issue. If there's a better choice that folks have good luck with, I'll switch. Thanks, still learning.

Quoted from PogoFX:

Thanks in advance for a little help with sound buzzing. I get a pretty loud hum as the pin cycles through the lights in between games. Since I need to pull the Sys 9 board and replace a power transistor for a pop bumper, I was going to replace several of the radial capacitors on the lower right of the board (C2,5,7,24,53). I know old caps can be one source of the problem.
But I've since discovered that the culprit for about 95% of the buzzing. It occurs when the pop bumper lights illuminate through the sequence. They had been replace by a previous owner with LED's (I think BriteCaps EVO). If I pull these lights out, it eliminates the 95% of the buzzing or humming.
So my question is, does this change my approach? Would different lights here fix the issue? Maybe someone can chime in that has these lights. I'll probably still go ahead and replace the caps, but might put that off since I don't have those on hand yet if the lights are the culprit.
Also if I unplug the sound board (Swemmer 147-4-19) the buzzing stops. Not sure if that adds anything, but thought I'd mention that also since that's where I started my troubleshooting.[quoted image]

Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Try tightening all of the screws on your main board, it sounds like you've got shuttle buzz.