Thank you for your advice.
I have take a look but there is nothing stamped.
About the board serial numbers, some are 535 I xxxxx
( according to ipsnd, I is for International) and others are 535 K xxxxx . I didn't found any information about this "K".

Hello everybody !

Here a new "T" drop target made with a 3D printer to avoid airball and glass contact when you hit strongly this target.
On the new part, I have put an angle, so that the ball stay on playfield after hitting the target.
The other benefit is that, when the target is down, the hole in the wood is totally full. I hope it will reduce the wear all around this hole.

I can give you the .stl file if you are interested.

I have also rebuilt the bumper body, and it works great
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers/page/13#post-6647540

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good idea. nice job!

Brilliant, yet simple thinking, idea. Great job!!

Please could you check on your Space Shuttle to check if you have a spring on the coil plunger of the "T" drop target ?
It doesn't appear on Blue catalog, and not on my pinball... But all pictures that I found on Internet show a spring !

In my opinion, that's the reason why my target doesn't work well.

Thank you in advance to confirm that a spring is necessary. But in that case, I don't know where I will found a reference.

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There is a spring on mine and it works fine.

Hello everyone,

Edit.

Figured out my own question. 2pin connector on the power board come undone from the board and one side looks a little burnt up.

Time to track down the park and rebuild. If anyone knows where to find these easily it’d be appreciated haha.

Thanks for the help.
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Hello, on my side, the 2 yellow wires have been welded directly on the board and a 2 wires connector placed 20centimeters after.

Did Space Shuttle's coin door come with a flap on the coin return? Mine's missing, and looking at photos online, I've yet to find one that has it. Did Williams do away with it when they went back to the old style coin door for Space Shuttle, or was it something new that broke easier than the old style and went missing?

Mine is missing, yep it looks like they did away with those, maybe a very small cost savings thing?

Would be definitely interested in this. I can have my co-worker print one up for my game!

I tried to PM you the file but attachment of documents is not allowed.
I tried also to put the file here, in this post. Not allowed !

So if you want the .stl file, please send me an email adress by PM.

what material are you printing with?
I had a drop target printed with PLA+ and it broke.

I used PLA+ from SUNLU, on a CREALITY ENDER 3 V2 printer with nozzle Temp 230°C, bed Temp 80°C, no fan.
Take care on the direction of the filament to increase the shock resistance.
On the slicer, I have put:
- density 50%, cubic
- no brim, no raft
- layer thickness 0.16mm
- print speed 50mm/s

=> 2h09min of printing

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PM sent for the file.

Thank you

Space Shuttle - troubleshooting - Upper left playfield - U - S - A - rollovers.

The lighting functions when they rollover, but the flashing target doesn't always light up until rolled over.
Or seems dim..

Once target it rolled over the next flashing letter seems dim or off.

It has LEDS in currently. This is the last of the glitches I have to fix right now.

Hope that makes sense. Pretty sure I replaced the diodes. What else should I look for.
Perhaps the diode I used is wrong.. Any ideas? "

I do not have this problem on any of the other matrixes. Everything is bright. Same LEDS throughout
I've replaced the to no effect.

Are you using Non-ghosting LEDs? Try regular bulbs to see if the problem exists with regular bulbs.

The U-S-A lights don't flash, so not sure what you mean by flashing lights

Send a picture of the MPU board at IJ7 including the resistors. That area tends to be a problem on most boards. That could be your issue.

I would also check all the transistors. Here's How

2c. Before Turning the Game On: Quick and Dirty Transistor Testing
Whenever I get a new system 11 game, before I ever turn it on, I test all the TIP122/102 solenoid transistors. I do this because I'm already in the backbox (examining the fuses and the GI connectors), and a blown transistor can really confuse a system 11 game. This is the procedure I use, and it takes about 20 seconds to test all the TIP122/102 transistors:
Make sure the game is off.
Put your DMM (digital multi meter) on ohms (buzz tone).
Put one lead on the ground strap in the backbox.
Touch the other lead to the metal tab on the TIP122/102 transistors. These are the 16 transistors at the lower left side of the CPU board, the six transistor at the upper right, and the eight transistors at the far lower right of the CPU board in a vertical row.
If you get zero ohms (buzz), the transistor is bad! (shorted on)
I replace the bad TIP122 transistor(s) with a more robust TIP102 immediately before I turn the game on. I also usually replace the associated pre-driver 2N4401 transistor too.

Great resource
https://hansbalk.home.xs4all.nl/rep/sys11/index1.htm

Hello !
Here come a new release of the T drop target , in black or white color with paint inside the marking.

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Will be interested in hearing how long it’s lasts.

These look great!

Black version are made with PLA+
White version is made with standard PLA.
At the moment, it is the white version which is mounted in the machine because it is more visible than the black one. The black version merges with the playfield, target raised or lowered.

About your remark "how long it's lasts",
If you speak about the printing duration, about 3 hours for the last versions.

If you speak of lifetime duration of the print piece, how can I answer...
* Number of games before the breaking ? => No pertinent because you need to take into account the duration of a game
* Elapsed time before the breaking ? => No pertinent because it depends of the number of games.

Maybe the best way to answer is to give you the total of the score of all the games before the breaking.
No, the best would be to count the number of times the target is hit before the breaking... I can try but I can't guarantee you anything

In all case, you can be sure that I will inform you as soon as the piece is breaking.

kryss63 - I would work on the entryway to your ramp. Try and get those screws flush with the playfield so they don't destroy your balls (then destroy your playfield).

You also may want to get the ramp protectors to extend the life of your ramp

http://www.passionforpinball.com/shuttle.htm

Wow. Ok I desperately want this. Awesome!!!

Wow ! I was searching how to improve the entry of the 2 ramps. Your link is perfect. Thank you !

Send me a PM with your email.

Remind me, who sells the drop target and spinner decals? Just noticed mine are non-existent.

I have found that here:

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/williams/space-shuttle.html?p=1

Action Pinball has the decals in the US.

Anyone have pictures of their coin switches? Mine seem to be wired incorrectly.

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First step with the right ramp, little part done with 3D printer.
I will work on the center ramp tomorrow.

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Vary ingenious.nice work.

Mine has this, not stock I assume? (Ignore sticker pealing on shuttle nose, need to get to that one day lol)

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I noticed those repro stickers don't stick worth a crap.

Another option for the ramp entrances.These flaps are available from Larry at starship fantasy. These are the same ones attached to the repo ramps he makes. Not in his catalog but if you ask him he'll send you out just the set of flaps.

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Ok, that's class !
In my case the ramps are more destroyed on the sides of the entrance than on the ground.

3D printed parts:

Advantages :
* black color, like the original ramp
* total entrance protection
* easy to replace in case of breaking.
* easy to remove, whitout any mark of fitting.

Inconvenience
* reduction of the entry of about 3mm (plastic thickness 1.5mm).

Here is the photo of the 2 parts fitted in my machine.

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New Owner and happy to be here. The playfield spelling board, all lights work when tested, but when spelling SPACE SHUTTLE the bottom two rows are not lighting properly (they don't light at that time), but they all light up in test and at other points during play. Any thoughts on troubleshooting this?

I’m getting back on my Space Shuttle project, none of the flasher are working, where should I direct my attention?

Make sure all flash bulbs are good. Check flash in test mode.

Lol, insert Clark Griswold quote about checking bulbs.

Bulbs are new, solenoid test is how I know they don’t work.

I could me mistaken but I don't think the flash bulbs activate in test mode.

They activate in solenoid test. Solenoid 9 & 10 for the playfield flashers, and solenoid 14 for the backbox flashers.

Sorry, I was thinking of Firepower. I stand corrected.

Does anyone have an original spinner?

Or who carries the best spinner decals? (though I would really like to find an original)

Thanks!

Hi veteran pilots, new rookie pilot here! Just picked up my Space Shuttle and it's my first pin (although not new to pinball). I absolutely love it. I bought it from a guy who mostly restored it, but I'm looking to take it to the next level. He replaced the power board with a Pin-Tek, replaced the original System 9 board with a rebuilt System 11-nothing board, put in custom EEPROMS with the sounds and voices on it and hence eliminated the sound board, put in all LEDs (minus flashers), new legs painted to match, new leg levelers, new power cable, new hardware throughout, put in a translite, new shuttle, new plastics and drop target decals, new rubbers. Playfield is original and it pretty good condition. Has a few wear marks, but overall I think it's pretty dang good given its age. Both boxes are original and in pretty good condition too; main box has virtually no marks or scratches in it which is insane. The backbox has the usual marks and dings, especially at the edges but overall in pretty good shape.

I wanted to get some opinions on some things I'd like to do to really finish it off and have it be super nice. I already have ordered an anyPin NVRAM chip for it and am going to remove the battery holder.

First is the translite that's in there. It looks Ok, but from what I can tell the backglasses looks so much nicer. The original backglasses, from what I can tell, have silver/gold/mirror-like pin striping at the edges, whereas mine is just red. I also I don't like how the light bleeds through. What are your thoughts/suggestions on replacing it with a backglass? I think I read somewhere in here there are many different reproduction versions. How are the repros in terms of quality? I'd like to try to get the best and closest to the original as I can.

Another thing is that the coin door is dented fairly bad and the coin inserts are cracked, of course. I saw you can get inserts from Pinball Resource. Any ideas on where I could get a new coin door? Mine still has the coin intake mechanism all intact.

I'm also missing the bell. The guy who restored it told me it didn't work and I guess he opted to remove it. Worth it to try to replace? I'm leaning towards that it might not be worth the time or the trouble and now since it's been removed, I don't even know how it was wired in. It's not used much in the game; I think only for extra credits, correct? Worth it? I tried looking around but couldn't find one anywhere.

Looking forward to your thoughts and suggestions!

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Welcome to the club.
Yes, the original back glass is mirrored and looks great. May be hard to find a good one, though.
Definitely find a bell. Used for more than extra credits, and the game isn't the same without it.

Congrats on the pickup, first thing I'd do is get those blue LEDs swapped out for white ASAP.

Ok will definitely try to locate a bell somewhere. I looked already but will give another go.

There are no colored LEDs anywhere in the machine; has only white installed.

The CPR repro backglass is really good. I have one in my game.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/shuttleglass

That’s weird the shuttle on the translite looks VERY blue.

Definitely look at getting one of the glass reproductions.

I think this is the coin insert you need...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/16C-8715-3