That's the whole enchilada, good luck finding a wire gate for it. A lot of guys have replaced the switches with optos for under that

That's the whole enchilada right there. Good luck finding a wire gate for it. A lot of guys have replaced those switches underneath with optos

I think someone recently posted a link to a replacement gate elsewhere in this thread but I could be mistaken.

Opto works but keep in mind that the original gate triggers the switch only when the ball is moving forward direction, an opto will trigger twice on a missed ramp shot unless it's temporarily disabled with a timer.

Thanks,

I was thinking it was this wire gate: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6653 but i'll have to confirm part number in the manual.

*Edit: Yep, that is the correct part. 7A769C6D-4394-4D36-B65C-B926857D169E (resized).jpeg

Its irritating someone bent the heck out of the switch lever, hopefully I can straighten it enough to get it to work.

That is the correct animal.

Easy enough to bend one up.

You *could* bend your own but its not just a simple gate. For 6 bucks I'll get one coming and move on.

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Is the T light suppose to light up when the T target drops or when the ramp is shot? My T light functions, but sometimes it requires the ramp to be shot to light in addition to the T target dropping. The multiball light also doesn't light consistently with a locked ball and T target down. I'll look tonight for any mechanical issue on the underside. Hoping it's not a light matrix issue as I'm not familiar with diagnosing and resolving those.

Yes, the T light should be lit by just the drop target. My guess is the switch on the drop target needs to be cleaned and/or adjusted.

As I go through the box of parts that came with my project Space Shuttle (which was supposed to have everything but the pop bumper caps) I found I'm missing these two plastics. I'm not wanting to buy a full plastic set just yet, does anyone have decent ones of these two that perhaps were replaced with a full set?

Thanks,
-Charles

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Also check the diode on the drop target. That may cause your issue as well.

Special shout-out to fellow shuttle head Andy over at Rocket City pinball. These coin insert covers are absolutely amazing. The 3D print on the prism background is flawless and the detail paint on the shuttle bring it to another level. Well done sir. Kicking myself in the ass because I thought I had two of those fire bulbs from comet but turns out one of them was a wedge base. To anyone who might be on the fence about these, hop over it, they're well done and a great addition to this machine.

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I have those two plastics. Pm me.

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My machine diagnostics state 2,396 balls played. That's just under 800 games right? (Divide by 3). Curious how that compares to others. Can that number reset or is it like an odometer and trustworthy as an indicator of age and play?

Adjusting the switch did help. Some more work to do but it went from working 25% of the time to now about 75% of the time. Thanks!

Hey thanks for the shoutout Larry! I appreciate it, and I'm so glad you love them!

I really do love them Andy and the truss prints are exceptional as well, it'll be a little while before I get to installing them. I have my head Way too far up Elektra's ass right now. Which brings me to this, I'm thinking of doing the lower playfield in Elektra with UV lights and UV reactive Plastics and paints. Have you printed any of your starposts with UV reactive filament? Is that even a thing?

Actually yes, I just never got around to posting them in my shop. See pics below -- the one with it casting a shadow is with a blacklight flashlight shining on it. The other is after shutting the light off.

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Spool up the printer, those are awesome. Put me down for 11 of them. I will put in a proper order on your shop tomorrow.

My machine has four flashers under the hot dog inserts and four in the light box. The lamps are #63, 7 volts, but a couple are burned out. I have some #67's, 13.5 volt. I don't think it's such a hot idea to sub the 67's for 63's. Is that right?

Thanks,

Alan

Correct, putting 13v bulbs on a 6v circuit will not give you the results you want. (Dim light)

I know Williams used a lot of leftover cabinet stock for Space Shuttle, does anyone else have these four holes on the front legs?

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Mine does but im not sure why

There was another Williams game that had adjustable legs (can't remember title name) I bet these would left over cabs from that games run. It is weird that its only in the front.

So frustrated with this machine. It’s been trouble free for years. Decided to rebuild the flippers and the outhole switch that registers an end of ball stopped working. It randomly started working again but tonight I lifted up the Playfield to tweak one of the flippers and now it isn’t registering again. If I push the balls over to the 3 switches in the trough I can start a game but overwise the ball just sits on the outhole switch and doesn’t register to push the ball over to the trough. Checked all the wiring and nothing seems awry. Flippers check out fine and I don’t think it’s related. Just maybe bad luck the the cherry switch is starting to go? Should I just replace it? Having a hard time finding the right one. Any advice is appreciated!

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Sometimes when a microswitch goes it gets flaky, like it’ll take more pressure to register. That may be what is going on.

But since you were just working in that area it may be related to what you just worked on. Tug on all the wires and make sure one isn’t half hanging on. If you can’t find anything you could try removing the switch and see if it clicks nicely or is ‘gummy’ in how it clicks.

Does anyone want the Blue Displays that are in my Space Shuttle?

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I’d sell outright or consider trades for full or partial set of original displays and driver board.

-Pending Sold.

Traded!

Reflowed solder on the outhole switch wires but still no dice. Clicks pretty cleanly. Wondering if it could be a coil issue too but thinking not.

Was having similar issue with mine recently turned out to be a transistor on the board poorly soldered

If anyone needs a system 9 MPU board, I have a couple for sale.

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

Williams System 9 MPU #1 Archived

Used, good condition - “I am going to be listing a bunch of boards for sale in the next few days. So check my other listings for more items. Up for sale: Williams System 9 MPU board. This board was teste...”

2021-06-13

Bakersfield, CA

uncivil_engineer

350

Archived after: 1 day

Viewed: 47 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

System 9 MPU #2 Archived

Used, good condition - “I am going to be listing a bunch of boards for sale in the next few days. So check my other listings for more items. Up for sale: Williams System 9 MPU board. This board had damag...”

2021-06-13

Bakersfield, CA

uncivil_engineer

300

Archived after: 4 days

Viewed: 102 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

I cleaned up the speaker panel brackets with some scotch brite.

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And also put in the VFD set of displays that I traded the blue LEDs ones for and put in all new bulbs in the back box.

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I'm waiting to put the new backglass in until the last thing.

I've also started getting the playfield cleaned up so I can start re assembling it.

Started taking everything off the playfield.

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I don't know why people like those milky glue stick looking rings so much. My Firepower had the same ones on it too.

Pop bumper bodies were rough so I ordered some replacements.

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Looking back at this thread I've seen a few have gone full clear for their bumpers, I think it looks a bit weird seeing the light socket sitting in it but I did decide to go with clear skirts.

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I think it'll look pretty cool with being able to see more of the art under the pops.

Speaking of art, the mylar that is over the art around the pop bumpers looks horrid. It has the look and feel of cheap scotch tape.

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Thankfully its mostly peeling up and came off very easily. I'm going to touch up the black and put new mylar rings from Pinball Life.

I ordered a set of the right pop bumper caps too.

How it looked after removing the sticky residue, cleaned up, and black in the pop bumper area touched up.

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I used clear bodies and clear wafers and there's no light sockets in mine. I used a pop bumper ring with with clear, coloured caps and ran the wire through the body and wired them right into the harness below the playfield. You can barely see the wire. Yes, if a ring dies I have a bit more work to do to replace it but I think they look great.

Of course, that's just my opinion. I'm not a traditionalist, I didn't care for the original pop bumper caps, I didn't care for the orange displays, I didn't care for the red star posts, etc. To each their own though!

For sure. I can't stand LED ring caps. White bodies with the clear skirts are a good middle of the road with keeping it mostly original but showing off art that would otherwise be hidden under the skirts.

Got parts!

Thankfully the Mylar rings were the right size (there was no info on the site about what size they were)

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Trimmed to clear the posts similar to the originals but left them as long as possible.

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I'm happy with the results.

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Comparison of the clear skits vs original white:

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I'm one for keeping things how they left the factory but with the amount of art that is covered by the white skirt I really like how the clears look. It'll be interesting to see how they hold up over time if they are more brittle or if they get all scuffed up.

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It's really coming together Charles. For what it's worth I've had the clear skirts on my shuttle for 2 years now. Lots of plays and no evidence of wear.

Lol I'm having this same issue with mine and it's keeping me from delivering it to the guy who bought it. Everything worked fine but I let it sit for a couple of weeks and when I turned it back on it wouldn't kick the ball over to the trough. If I manually send it across it registers the end of ball and I can otherwise play normally. But the outhole kicker simply won't fire, not during gameplay, or solenoid test, or even by just jumping the transistor.

I sent the board off (again) thinking maybe a transistor problem but it tested fine. Hooked it back up and tested continuity for both the switch and the solenoid from playfield to header plug, all looks good. I suppose the next thing to try is to repin a new molex plug for the solenoid plug in question because the switch registers during switch test.

I think I also screwed up the EOS on the right flipper when I rebuilt, or something, because it just doesn't feel particularly snappy. Ugh.

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Continuity was flaky at best on that one pin between the header and plug. New trifurcon crimps and a new molex plug fixed it right up.

I also tore apart the right flipper -- again -- and resleeved the coil / replaced the bushing. Forgot about the stupid kepnuts on the back of the bracket and snapped two bolts. Thankfully they backed all the way out from the opposite side.

I'm pretty sure it's ready to go now but I'll stress test it for a few days to make sure. I'm just glad that damn outhole kicker is working again. IDC plugs SUCK.

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Truer words have never been spoken.

Just replaced the IDC connectors on Blackout a few months ago for failure to boot and or lockup during gameplay. It was losing the blanking signal due connectors. Been rock solid since.

Yep this one was perfectly fine for years until I sold it. I let it sit, off, for like two weeks and when I turned it on I had no outhole kicker. After a $30 turnaround to diagnose my board as perfectly okay I threw my hands up and decided to repin the one connector. Super irritating; I should have just repinned it to begin with.

This is going to a pin novice who lives an hour from me (in completely the wrong direction) so I'm doing everything I can to keep from having to go make a bunch of house calls. I want him to have a reliable machine straight off, for at least a little while before pinball normalcy kicks in and things start breaking!

I had an idea it was connector based on when I reset the connectors and it would be ok for a few days. Removing the connectors it struck me that they had utterly no tension on them whatsoever. Then I broke out the schematic and looked at the location of the suspect connectors and it all made sense.

New Molex connector housing with Trifurcon contacts for a spot of overkill and its just like new.

Molex and trifurcon is the only way to fly. This thing is playing great now. Funny, now that it's sold and ready to deliver I'm actually enjoying playing it again.

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What slope angle do you have your SS's set at? Mine was only around 4.5 when I bought it and haven't changed it because the flippers seem to have barely enough power to complete the ramp. Seems like if I changed the resting position of the flippers it would provide a more direct shot (and more power) up the ramp, but then the kickout holes would be nearly impossible to hit.

Probably time to rebuild flippers anyways.

I have maybe 3/8"-1/2" from max on the rear 3" levelers and the front is slammed. So I'm sure it's 6.5+

You should have no problem making the ramp with a properly lined up shot. I'd resleeve the coils at a minimum and see if that helps.

thanks! I will try that. How do you have your flippers calibrated? My playfield has little pinholes directly under where the bottom of the flipper seems like it should be in resting position. I assume these are here to help aid in quickly aligning flippers during installation?

I'm having this exact problem. This is really helpful. Can you send a link to the connectors you bought? 9 pin connector? So weird because I'm having the same issue with my right flipper after a rebuild! Had the issue with the left flipper after rebuild and ended up replacing the coil which gave it the perfect amount of snappiness and power.

https://www.pinballlife.com/156-396mm-crimp-stuff-9-position-housing-with-locking-ramp-17443.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/156-trifurcon-crimp-terminals.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/156-polarizing-key-for-molex-crimp-stuff-housings.html

I usually only replace coils if sleeves are stuck in them. In theory you shouldn't have to do it otherwise. But rebuilding linkage, replacing sleeves/springs, etc can make all the difference in the world.

And again IDC plugs are garbage. If I cared more I'd go and replace them in every single game I own, but.....I'm too lazy. Maybe someday.

Great Plains Electronics is a good place to get these from and Ed has much more reasonable shipping rates than the $11-13 minimum that Pinball Life charges.

And Ed is a pinsider.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp

GPE is indeed another great spot. I love pbl for most of the parts I order so I just throw plugs and terminals in with orders I already plan on making. Guess you're right that there are cheaper routes if you're only buying those. Margaret and Terry have NEVER let me down and I've given them the bulk of my business. They're awesome people.

Thanks man. Yea it was really weird that the flipper wasn't snappier after the rebuild and replacing the sleeve. I adjusted the EOS switch but it just didn't snap like a rebuilt flipper should...popped in a coil and it really felt good. I'll need to order those. Never swapped out a connector before but should be fairly straightforward.