I was running diagnostics today and usually I see 04 in the CREDITS display to indicate test and 00 in the MATCH display to indicate the first function (Game Identification). I don't recall exactly when but somewhere near the end of the cycle of tests the CREDITS display went to 03 and the MATCH display began alternating 12 and 36 back and forth. Could someone help this newbie understand what that indicates, if it's a problem, and if so how to remedy?

I just bought this Space Shuttle this last weekend so I'm glad to be part of the club!

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03 = switch test
12 & 36 are switches that are active

12 =1 ball is in the trough
36 = 1 ball is in the shooter lane

Page 16 of the manual lists all the switches

Here’s a link to the manual

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2260/Williams_1984_Space_Shuttle_Instruction_Manual_dated_Nov_3_1984_with_schematics.pdf

Thank you kindly!!

A few brews and a new high score tonight of 1.65M. I know that's probably relatively low but it's a household high for owning the table for 2 weeks. I figured I needed more multi-ball to get a higher score, but in this case I think I spelled SHUTTLE several times and that's what boosted my score. Love hearing that bell ring! Of course I'm always looking to spell USA and max my end-of-ball bonus. When multi-ball does hit, I think this machine has one heck of a light show! Man I love it!

As a side note I paid $2,600 for mine. That's quite a bit, but the playfield is in pretty good condition other than some minor cupping on the the center-playfield inserts and some touch-ups that were done near the USA (common area for wear). It does need cleaned/waxed (any advice there is good, I have NOVUS 2 and a cloth...). Original back glass in near mint and machine outfitted with LEDs. Though, the pop bumbers are red-blue-white and are not of equal brightness, I need to investigate that. Jealous of you guys that bought this several years ago for much less.

Congrats, next stop 5M! Increase spinner value and spinner all day is the key to high scores.

With the EOS capacitor mod, where do the ends of the capacitor terminate? I found one pic from Ed Cheung where it looks to terminate to the solenoid. I found another picture on here where they both terminate directly to both points on the EOS switch. Before I attempt, which is correct?

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What does this mod do?

My understanding is it is intended to reduce or eliminate the spark on the EOS switch each time its activated, thereby extending the switch life by reducing pitting and corrosion.

I’m in but need a new main board.
Who sells/makes the best?
Thanks

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$750 or best offer? chuckle.

I was referring to the guys ad on CL.

I know. The guy originally listed it for $250.
Then he got absolutely swarmed.

Last I saw it was $900 and the ad claimed he had a pile of $750 offers. Was thinking about grabbing it for the playfield but I have enough projects now and thinking of selling Shuttle as it is.

Nice pickup! For some reason the game is not captivating me like Blackout does.

Does anybody else have their right pop bumper metal flange a little lower than the rest? I can't physically get it any higher with my fingers. I first thought it was a worn out spring. Thought I would check the collective minds before I went about further inspecting or rebuilding. The skirt also gets stuck on occasion thereby allowing continued current and blows my slow blo fuse on the solenoid circuit.

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Ugh, I turned mine on for the first time in weeks and now the outhole coil isn't firing. The switch does register. Everything else seems to function properly. Looks like I need to investigate Q47 and IJ11 (POS1) correct? It can't just be a fuse because everything else works.. Right? Wiring looks fine to the coil but I'll check continuity from the plug.

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I thought you got rid of this pig, anyway let me know how the fix goes, mine is doing the same thing right now. I got it to play nice after jiggling the connector at 1j11. That got it working but didn't fix the problem. Good luck.

Yeah, it's "sold" and has been 2/3 paid for... But continues to sit and wait for the last 1/3

I'll check out the plug today and see if anything is obvious.

Can you post a photo of the pop bumper mechanism on the back side of the playfield?

No such luck for me. All looks good (header pins are good, connector is good).... Except no continuity from pin to solenoid wire. I tested a different coil in that plug and got continuity, so... That's fun. I traced the wire all the way down and don't see any breaks.. :/

//Scratch that. I unplugged and verified continuity from each side: solenoid to plug, cabinet side plug to board plug, then solenoid to board plug. Continuity is good. Appears the transistor is somehow shorted. Makes no sense why.

I will try and get a picture posted here tonight after work, thank you for the reply!

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I'll have to try this also. The 'prop rod' doesn't evenly support the playfield so once the weight settles in it shifts crooked and that just makes me nervous.
I've scratched the left rail several times upon re-entry trying to evenly put the playfield back down. Also, because of the warnings on this site I have not fully lifted the playfield back up against the backglass so I don't break the ramp. I'd like better access to the underside of the playfield but this machine doesn't seem made to foster that easily! I need to look into how many cables need disconnected to simply remove the playfield. At some point that might be an option for me, depending on the scope of work.

I don't see anything obvious that would account for the ring sitting lower. Is it possible the rods on the ring are not the same length as the other pop bumpers?
Unrelated, it looks like there was some serious heat there at some time. Certainly caused by the skirt sticking. Maybe a problem with the spoon. I think a rebuild is probably a good idea.

I'll start sourcing parts. Marco should have everything I need I believe. I don't know what would cause the skirt to stick. Oh the fun of troubleshooting machines! Luckily I have a local guy that offered to help rebuild it. I think for my first one I'll watch him (he said about half hour to an hour) and then I'll try the other two myself.

Check out Vid's guide, if you haven't already. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers
It helped me get great performance out of my Space Shuttle pop bumpers when I rebuilt them. It is not hard, but take the time to precisely align the spoon and adjust the switch. It makes all the difference.

Had to come share here, since you'll love these as much as I do ...

3D Coin Entry Plates for Space Shuttle!

3D-printed with multiple filaments, featuring a space shuttle orbiter printed in black for its bottom few layers then white for the rest, then accented with ink & paint for the remaining details. The filament changes happen mid-print, so the button & shuttle are permanently fused together.

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But, the best part -- with the plate/button printed in clear, install a 'Fire' LED (from Comet) behind them and you get a flickering fiery atmospheric reentry effect! See it in action:

Pinside shop: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/05086-3d-coin-entry-plates-space-shuttle
Facebook: https://facebook.com/RocketCityPinball
Website: https://rocketcitypinball.com

OK, that looks cool. May have to get this for my shuttle. Nice work.

Thanks, I'm really pleased with these too! They take a little more post-printing detail work than most of my other ones ... but if I set one of these without details, and set it next to one WITH details, it's like night & day. GOTTA be detailed.

Let me know!

These are amazing Andy, I'll be touching base with you tomorrow to order set. Keep up the good work

I just read through all 71 pages of this thread as I am considering picking up a Space Shuttle.

I'm surprised no one mentioned how cool the Defender name of the Shuttle is, with Defender being Williams' first Video Arcade Game. Such a clever name.

The one I'm looking at getting is a bit rough but comes with tons of new stuff, Backglass, Ramp, Shuttle, Wolfpac displays.

The Cabinet is boarderline needing a repaint/re-stencil.

I'll post photos if I pull the trigger..

P.S. Would you guys consider the Pinside value on this game a bit on the low side?

Kinda regretting this, it’s pretty rough... (photos make it look better than it is)

Its in pieces and I just noticed both rails have back box dents.

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Does anyone know if any of the vendors sell Space Shuttle pop bumper caps? All three are missing on this and it seems usual places are sold out...\

I also just realized the spinner is missing, does anyone have an original they'd be willing to part with?

Thanks.

Congratulations on the acquisition, and welcome to the club. Don't sweat it if it's a little rough around the edges, it's a great title and well worth the effort to fix spit and polish. I've had mine for 20 years and will never let go of it it never gets old it just keeps getting better.
Keep Flippin

I can handle rough, I repainted and re-stenciled cabs I'm just kicking myself for what I paid. instead of being patient for the right one to come along I jumped on the first one I saw.

It seems you're damned if you do and damned if you don't when it comes to a title you really want to pick up. As for price I'm not sure what you paid but you're right in that it's undervalued on pinside's list. IMO, in today's pinball Market, for this title, 2400 to 2800 is a more realistic value for a player's condition machine. Plus,yours had the bonus package with ramps,displays etc..enjoy!

Marco pops in and out of stock. Just keep your eyes on it.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7444-535

Also, if you don't mind mentioning, what'd you pay for the machine?

yes, keep your eyes on marco. was talking with one of the guys there yesterday and he said they just got in a ton of pop bumper caps that have been sold out for a while. so keep an eye on them. could be up soon.

I just bought one a few weeks ago with a cabinet in a little better shape but non functional and a completely blown out playfield and no extra parts for $1000. I'm working through getting it to start a game before i hard top it and replace the ramp. Anyone use the rocket city playfield posts on their machine and have some pictures of how it turned out?

I purchased one with blown out displays for around $1000-$1200. Cabinet needed a lot of touch up, playfield with some wear in the usual spots but have seen far worse.

I tuned up the cabinet nice and replaced the junk displays with LED units. Might rebuild the playfield with waterslides and clear coat, still on the fence with the title though if I like it or not that much.
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Thanks guys,

I need to unload it, and really look it over. I was super discouraged last night.

Its cool that it came with the new ramp and backglass, though I'm not sure yet if its the blue'd out one or the V2 (which I hope it is as the blue one look terrible IMHO)
I hate LED displays (and LEDs in general) so those are actually a negative for me, I'm going to have to try to piece together a set of original displays and main board (ugh)

Besides the missing spinner what really did it for me was seeing, while breaking down the game, how someone had spray painted the inside sides of the cab and got over spray over all the cabinet wiring. Yeah functionally it doesn't matter but man it makes it look hacky as hell.

Some of the regulators on the Williams power board are unavailable and they can take out displays when they go. So.. Aftermarket power supply or LED displays. Gas displays are going to fail at some point, they don't last forever.

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I'm curious how many are actually out there. They originally produced roughly 3,000, take away those that have been trashed (literally thrown out), then take a look at what's left. Just checked eBay (no recent sales and none for sale now). I've seen them occasionally still on route (through other people's posts), but most of the good ones must be in collections. Few and far between.

Edit I was off... 7,000 produced

Thanks for that old friend. Thankfully the cat pee smell must have been coming from the neighbors trash or something (windy today) as I stuck my head in the bottom of the cab and in the back box and it doesn't smell at all, which I'm thankful for.

Really, only 3000? That seems low for a pin this popular.

*edit: the game details on pinside list 7000 produced, which is closer to what one would expect for a decently successful title.

Correct, several thousand were made.

They come up for sale here in New England fairly often, between $800 to $1600 seems to be the going rate unless really nice.

@SWMurphy, I did, obviously, lol ... I put black ones in mine and I love it. (Though I did opt to leave the translucent red ones at the rollover lanes, I like the overall fiery look there.)

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Thanks for the pictures, i was going to try some blue in the lower areas by the slings and i was debating about black or black sparkle for the black areas.

Ah, I like what you're thinking! Match the 'background' of the playfield in those areas. Cool. Let me know what you decide!

Is there anything missing under my shuttle other than the wire gate?

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