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(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!


By E_N_3

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,273 posts
  • 234 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by Bax1
  • Topic is favorited by 118 Pinsiders

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There are 3273 posts in this topic. You are on page 66 of 66.
#3251 11 days ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Thanks O. Actually read through that section on pinwiki a couple nights ago and wondered if this might be a candidate for that. I've been doing a lot of research,and a lot of head-scratching trying to figure my next course of action. Honestly I'm a little intimidated by this amount of board work, but more intimidated by the price of a new rotten dog board.

I feel like my repair guy is one of the best out there and he's way cheaper than a rottendog replacement would be. I ALWAYS keep original where possible.

When you had board work done was it thoroughly freshened up or were only the noticeable problems addressed? Assuming you know, that is.

I feel good about any boards I've had reworked for the next 20+ years. No reason why they should cause me any grief especially with minimal uptime. He's always quick to tell me that weird, sporadic issues are common with non-freshened boards. Makes sense when components could be failing but maybe aren't yet completely dead, etc. And some of the components used at the time were cheeeeeeap crap that saved the manufacturer a few bucks.

Not trying to pimp out my guy necessarily, just passing on my experience in case it's helpful! I'm sure there are many others who will freshen a board set the same way.

#3252 11 days ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Nice job on this! Just curious how strong the 3D printed material is versus the original (nylon?) drop targets. Does the material hold up and can it take a beating like standard in-line drop targets?

I printed in PLA+ which seems like it would hold up. My target is fine, but my friend's games have really shotty fixes in theirs so anything is better than what they have now. I told them if it doesn't hold up, go to xometry.com and order parts in HP fusionjet nylon 12. VERY strong, and only $9 a piece.

#3253 10 days ago

Hey all. I recently picked up a Space shuttle that works, but needs a new top and a good look over. I’m not familiar with the title and any known issues, priorities to check, test or change. Other than cosmetic work and one pop not working, the only glaring thing I’ve seen is the slam tilt was disconnected. Does that matter? Otherwise I’ll replace. Thanks for helping me bring this to life. I’m about to start the hardtop sanding soon!

#3254 10 days ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Hey all. I recently picked up a Space shuttle that works, but needs a new top and a good look over. I’m not familiar with the title and any known issues, priorities to check, test or change. Other than cosmetic work and one pop not working, the only glaring thing I’ve seen is the slam tilt was disconnected. Does that matter? Otherwise I’ll replace. Thanks for helping me bring this to life. I’m about to start the hardtop sanding soon!

I think the lamp matrix usually needs components replaced because the original ones didn't hold up well. There are some pics further back of mine before being sent out for repairs.

Welcome to the coolest owner's club!

#3255 10 days ago
Quoted from misterhare:

I think the lamp matrix usually needs components replaced because the original ones didn't hold up well. There are some pics further back of mine before being sent out for repairs.
Welcome to the coolest owner's club!

Thanks! My wife works for Nasa so let’s just say it’s probably not leaving

#3256 8 days ago

Well since I won’t sell my space shuttle that my friend has been asking for the past few years, he bought two for me to restore! Nothing like a fall project!
Cabinets are solid, and both will get all redone to look like new again. One cabinet has no boards, one has all boards but no idea if they will boot, at least I don’t see any acid damage.
They have been in storage for years. One has a perfect backglass, one is mainly just glass and very little art left.

New plastics, new shuttle, and new CPR playfield to go in one once I get them working. Plan is to make one museum quality for his collection and the other nice without breaking the bank for him to sell.

This should keep me busy I think for a while.

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#3257 7 days ago

Amazing, it’s alive ish! Game has been in storage since about 1995. After I verified all wires and fuses were good, I hooked up the connectors, minor references needed from my pin, and turned on power.

Only GI lights came on when I switched it on. As I was checking for power, when I touched one of the fuses on the power board to ground, presto, the MPU and everything came up!! Maybe the caps were dead and needed some time?!?

So all lights, switches, even displays work. Only think not working during game play as well as test mode is the flashers in the back box and the playfield. Need to test Q54 and Q55. Looking at the diagram on page 17 of the manual, if one bulb is out on each side of the wire run, guess this could cause the issue as well. Will check their positions, I know at least 2 of the flasher bulbs in the backbox are bad using a voltmeter.

#3258 6 days ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I printed in PLA+ which seems like it would hold up. My target is fine, but my friend's games have really shotty fixes in theirs so anything is better than what they have now. I told them if it doesn't hold up, go to xometry.com and order parts in HP fusionjet nylon 12. VERY strong, and only $9 a piece.

Thanks! At worst $9 is not bad at all for unobtainium.

#3259 6 days ago

Flipper calibration question... when properly calibrated are you able to hit your center ramp with equal ease/difficulty with both the left and right flipper? On my machine it seems nearly impossible to make the ramp with the left flipper. Also, with the right flipper ramp shot, is there any difficulty with the normal flipper strength being barely strong enough to complete the ramp when, say, the ball is rolling through the in-lane versus stopping on the flipper then shooting the ball?

#3260 6 days ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Flipper calibration question... when properly calibrated are you able to hit your center ramp with equal ease/difficulty with both the left and right flipper? On my machine it seems nearly impossible to make the ramp with the left flipper. Also, with the right flipper ramp shot, is there any difficulty with the normal flipper strength being barely strong enough to complete the ramp when, say, the ball is rolling through the in-lane versus stopping on the flipper then shooting the ball?

After my hardtop installation and rebuild, my left flipper is like a canon while my right flipper is pretty weak. I purchased entire assemblies brand new from Pinball Life so it's not like there are worn parts. I'm still trying to figure out the issue as the flippers and EOS seem to be set up properly and the voltage to the coils is 47v on both sides. I can make the centre ramp with ease with the left flipper from a cradle or if the ball is rolling through the inlane. From the right flipper, there's no way to make it all the way around unless the ball is in motion from the inlane and then it's maybe 1 out of every 20 shots.

It's a bit frustrating but I'll figure it out at some point. I haven't checked flipper button switch or the pitch of the game yet but that right flipper is still pretty weak.

#3261 6 days ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

After my hardtop installation and rebuild, my left flipper is like a canon while my right flipper is pretty weak. I purchased entire assemblies brand new from Pinball Life so it's not like there are worn parts. I'm still trying to figure out the issue as the flippers and EOS seem to be set up properly and the voltage to the coils is 47v on both sides. I can make the centre ramp with ease with the left flipper from a cradle or if the ball is rolling through the inlane. From the right flipper, there's no way to make it all the way around unless the ball is in motion from the inlane and then it's maybe 1 out of every 20 shots.
It's a bit frustrating but I'll figure it out at some point. I haven't checked flipper button switch or the pitch of the game yet but that right flipper is still pretty weak.

Maybe it's just dragging somewhere? If everything else is the same (left to right) then it could be a physical issue.

#3262 5 days ago

I've checked for dragging. I've gapped the flipper properly with the proper play. Nothing is binding. I might goof around with the EOS and see if it makes a difference. It's a bit bizarre. I have to check the leaf switch at the flipper button. As much as I don't really want to, I might flip the mechs and see what happens. That would be a last resort.

Appreciate the feedback. If I get it solved, I will post what the fix was.

#3263 5 days ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

After my hardtop installation and rebuild, my left flipper is like a canon while my right flipper is pretty weak. I purchased entire assemblies brand new from Pinball Life so it's not like there are worn parts. I'm still trying to figure out the issue as the flippers and EOS seem to be set up properly and the voltage to the coils is 47v on both sides. I can make the centre ramp with ease with the left flipper from a cradle or if the ball is rolling through the inlane. From the right flipper, there's no way to make it all the way around unless the ball is in motion from the inlane and then it's maybe 1 out of every 20 shots.
It's a bit frustrating but I'll figure it out at some point. I haven't checked flipper button switch or the pitch of the game yet but that right flipper is still pretty weak.

Thanks for the input. Oddly my left flipper seems more powerful but the angle seems too tight that when the ramp is hit accurately the ball doesn't have quite enough oomph to get all the way around the ramp. I may try repositioning the flipper bats and see if that helps, although that may make the ball locks extremely difficult to hit.

#3264 3 days ago

My flippers both feel plenty strong, but the left flipper seems to be more difficult to hit the ramp than the right. It does seem logical that they should both be able to hit it easily enough.

The flippers were way out of whack when I bought it so I adjusted them according to the guides (or at least I thought) but they may still not be perfect.

#3265 3 days ago

Question for the hardcore mint-like-restoration people...

As everyone knows SS system 9 has the old-fashioned coin return with the metal cylinder button left of the illuminated "25-cent" inserts. On system 11 and forward the inserts themselves were the coin return buttons. I'm certain this led to many players trying to force pressure on the SS illuminated inserts causing eventual cracking of the insert, as is the case on my machine. As a result I am assuming mine and most (if not all) SS machines have cracked and dented illuminated "25-cent" inserts. See my photo.

I cleaned mine up best I could but to the folks who demand a perfect restoration, how do you correct this? Short of replacing the entire coin door with NOS are there any other options available? I have not seen replacement inserts for this coin door. Is there another way to replace these broken inserts?

sscoindoor (resized).jpg
#3266 3 days ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

I have not seen replacement inserts for this coin door. Is there another way to replace these broken inserts?

Pinball resource has the coin inserts for $6.30 each. Great company to deal with, Steve Young is also a wealth of information about everything pinball. I use them for every older pin I restore. Great prices and fast shipping. Just have to call them up and have your part numbers ready!

#3267 2 days ago

Just a few touches on our space shuttle --

We replaced the stock black speaker fabric with grey, made up some stencils on with a cricut... airbrushed on some art...

Made a new 3D model of the shuttle with the cargo doors open and a representation of the hubble inside.

We like it!

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#3268 2 days ago

Both look awesome. Plan on selling that shuttle?

#3269 2 days ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Both look awesome. Plan on selling that shuttle?

We don't really sell our stuff... but the 3d model for it is here --

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4625905

There is a description there as well as to how we got from a print to the finished model.

#3270 2 days ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Pinball resource has the coin inserts for $6.30 each. Great company to deal with, Steve Young is also a wealth of information about everything pinball. I use them for every older pin I restore. Great prices and fast shipping. Just have to call them up and have your part numbers ready!

Thank you!

#3271 1 day ago
Quoted from oliviarium:

Just a few touches on our space shuttle --
We replaced the stock black speaker fabric with grey, made up some stencils on with a cricut... airbrushed on some art...
Made a new 3D model of the shuttle with the cargo doors open and a representation of the hubble inside.
We like it![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great job Olivia! Truly a great-looking machine, love the speaker panel and the space shuttle 3D render really nice touch. Looks like a lot of love went into that machine, although if it were me I would have gone with a different topper.

#3272 1 day ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Great job Olivia! Truly a great-looking machine, love the speaker panel and the space shuttle 3D render really nice touch. Looks like a lot of love went into that machine, although if it were me I would have gone with a different topper.

Heh, yes, the current topper is the foil tray used to mix the smoothing substance applied to the 3D shuttle model print. Still debating of course, but I suspect it won't make the final cut.

We still have some things to do on it, you can't see very well from the photo but there is some colorful language hand etched into the playfield glass, so we'll be replacing that. Also designing some custom inserts for the coin door to replace the current ones that are damaged... also lots of touchup to do on the cabinet... we repainted using Pinball Pimp stencils, but a few areas just went wrong... do believe it was a technique/paint selection issue rather than anything wrong with the stencils.

#3273 19 hours ago
Quoted from oliviarium:

We don't really sell our stuff... but the 3d model for it is here --
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4625905
There is a description there as well as to how we got from a print to the finished model.

awesome. will have to see if some buddies with a 3d printer are able to make me this. mine just busted yesterday

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There are 3273 posts in this topic. You are on page 66 of 66.

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