Thanks, and I can totally appreciate your position which is why I wanted to be clear it was a 5 ball game. At the end of the day, it's not League play, my house my rules and it's always a challenge. Case in point, the follow-up game I shot under 850,000. Keep flippin!

If only our society could utilize the same courteous discourse we find here amongst Shuttle owners.

I have no issue with it, all in jest. I give a buddy of mine a really hard time about all his games. He has a really nice collection and the first time I went over and played I was surprised at some of his high scores. Then I figured out he had everything set pretty easy, 5 balls, long ball saves, etc. He claims it makes it much better for non-pinball-playing visitors that play his games.

So the running joke now is that his games are set to 10 balls with 5 minute ball saves! Every couple of weeks I inflate those numbers a bit just for fun!

I haven't checked the settings on my game but I noticed that on your last ball, if the score isn't that great, maybe less than 200k, the Shuttle value always seems to land on Extra Ball. Has anyone else noticed this?

It's all good ,shuttle brother. And as for the shuttle shuffle on the last ball we've noticed that as well. In fact, so much so, that around here we've come to affectionately refer to that as "the pity ball".

Got my 6808 in today, put it in and sound is back!

Thanks for the compliment! As mentioned it came from Starship Fantasy. Highly recommend!

I still want to swap out my pop bulbs for BriteCaps--probably one of my last mods for the foreseeable future--but unfortunately my pops are wired for bayonets currently. Eventually I'm going to get annoyed enough with the fact my bottom pop bulb intermittently cuts out that I'm going to be willing to rewire the damn thing with new wedge sockets. I already have the parts on hand to do it. I've just been.... Lazy. And I really, really butchered how I wired my high speed pop lighting post-hardtop, so I'm definitely nervous for round 2.

Ugh.

When I did my hardtop install, I completely removed the crappy bayonet sockets. I put in coloured rings and just ran the wires through the pops under the playfield and right into the wiring harness. I used clear pop bodies and I wanted as little visible inside them as possible. Yes, if they ever die, it will be a bit of a pain to replace them but well worth it.

IMG_20200826_2008313 (resized).jpg

Is there a source for replacement speaker grill material? Or a suitable substitute? Thanks. Mine looks like someone took a bic lighter to it.

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I am officially ready for blast off!!! Just joined the club today! Need to correct a few things and it’ll be a very nice original!

8815658A-DDDC-4882-8E7B-8B38C2B6E557 (resized).jpeg

Gotta dump those blue GI bulbs and tone it down a bit on the shuttle to reduce glare.. But it looks like a nice example! Welcome!

I bought mine already hardtopped and everything works great (well, after boards were all reworked due to the BAD transistor work that relatively quickly just... Fell apart). Hate messing with the pop sockets right now in the off chance that I make them work less well than they are. I'm gun-shy from my High Speed experience lol.

IMG_20191204_173802 (resized).jpg

Definitely plan on that. What degree is everyone running on the playfield? 5.5?

I think mine is at 6. With the hardtop, any more aggressive is just frustrating as all hell. This thing dunks on me plenty as it is.. Lol

Just set it at 5.5 and ramp seems pretty steep. I probably need to do a flipped rebuild

Make sure your flipper position is correct also. I had mine wrong when I got it and it was a nightmare to hit the ramp.

Welcome aboard new guy! Nice-looking game, especially digging the purple Under the bonus inserts and the astronauts.

Cool will check that out. Just use the guides?

Thanks. Fun game so far and tough to score some points. All my buddies say go back to white on those inserts. They look ok to me but may see how white looks.
I do think my right hot dog flashers aren’t working. In test mode which one is to trigger flashers. Are they controlled by a relay?

With the flashers you can check the easy stuff first. There's two bulbs on each side of those, if one is out in the sequence then neither on that side will fire.

I need the same fabric, let me know if you figure out a replacement.

anyone know where to get replacement ramp flaps from?

Just to circle back to the 5 ball discussion... my Space Shuttle (and also High Speed) are absolutely brutal -- they play fast and mean -- so ball times can be very short for the family/friends/visitors who come over to play. I have both of these games on 5 ball to ease the pain a little.

Larry at Starship fantasy sells the ramp flaps. Think it's 11 bucks a set , something you have to ask for not on the website.

right on. I will check them out. anyone happen to know the part number for it?

Mine was in crappy shape as well. Call me crazy but I had a roll of landscaping fabric sitting in my basement. I peeled off the original fabric, took off all the edge trim and the speaker, cut a piece of landscape fabric, wrapped and stapled it in place and reassembled. It's decent but not perfect. Much better than what was there. I might redo it and spray some adhesive on the panel before i put the fabric back on so it is smooth. I completely forgot I had 2 cans sitting on my work bench. That's what tends to happen when you start something at 2am...

ss_speaker (resized).jpg

forgot to ask, the sub in the cab is not very loud is it? pretty much get the sound from the head speaker?

I don't think there is a part number as this is normally preinstalled on the ramp. They include rivets for installation. They know their stuff, if you ask for the shuttle flaps, that's what they'll send. They also make the replacement shuttle. Good people.

looking back through all the pics in this thread, I see a ton of games that don't have the flaps. Was that factory?

Yes, no flaps from factory. Because the original ramp was so thin and brittle owners and operators have had to improvise for years, often leading to chewed up balls and premature playfield ware.

Looks great! Looks like I'm off to Lowe's lol.

It's come to my attention by some local pinball friends that the drop target has become unobtanium. So I 3d modeled it and printed some replacement parts. If anyone else needs a replacement, I uploaded it to thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4613394

Well, great minds think alike, we just modeled that drop target a couple of weeks ago!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4602509

But by far, I think this is our greatest achievement in 3D modelling -

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4005935

ebay.com link: itm

ebay “type in black speaker cloth” you have quite the selection.

awe snap, wonder why I couldn't find it. I did do some optimization to make it more printer friendly (thicker boss wall, chamfered the material saver strips)

Yup. Or Amazon for that matter. At 2am, the landscape fabric is what I had on hand and I went with it knowing that I could always redo it later if I hated it.

Finally got a score worth posting. Sadly this was all ball one at 3.9 million. Extra ball and 2 & 3 were trash.

I love this game.

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well my shuttle s*** the bed again. This time upon powering up it will Screech and pulse every light and then goes quiet except for the GI lights. At least with my last problem I had a hunch as to how to fix it ( it was wrong, but at least I had a hunch)this I have no idea what might be causing it. If anyone has experienced similar symptoms or has any suggestions for what I might want to look at first , I'm all ears.

Oh yeah, the dreaded error code 7 on the board.

So we had some really inconsistent behavior before we repinned/replaced the connector at 1J17. This is where your +5/+12 volts come into the MPU. Failure to get +12v for example will cause the reset circuit not to function which is one possible cause of error code 7 (the MPU never boots). 7 is the default code when you turn the machine on (if things are working, and you power it up while looking at the single digit display, you can often see the 7 quickly flash before the 0 comes up), so likely you are never getting a clean boot.

space-shuttle-1j17 (resized).jpg

Thanks, I'll give it a look-see.

Nice job on this! Just curious how strong the 3D printed material is versus the original (nylon?) drop targets. Does the material hold up and can it take a beating like standard in-line drop targets?

Have you ever had the boards professionally refurbished? Just curious.

so played a crazy good game last night. best score yet since having this two weeks. 3,613,240. had a super long multi ball that helped get me there. I did the flipper upgrade last weekend and man they are super strong now. When I hit the T drop down target, sometimes it hits so hard it will fly into the trough over the flippers. crazy strong. I might need to raise the game up a bit?

We are rebuilding one of these, playfield swap, flippers rebuilt, etc... still waiting on the metal for the powder coaters, so testing is happening with the playfield almost flat and the glass off... and if the ball hits the drop target just right, it will rebound into the player I can confirm that at least with little or no playfield pitch... that's a thing.

So...now that we know the rebuilt flippers work no more play-testing until we get the legs back on.

But the good news is all of our switches, lighting, and coils are 100% now!

so did someone get a nut shot?

Due to the current condition of the machine, all testing is limited to female techs at this time.

mines raised and does the same thing the trick to this game is never directly hit the T drop

I see some ball drains in the near future

hitting it with the left flipper just makes that sucker fly. I am worried that it may break. Does anyone carry the holographic moon decal for it if it does? haven't seen it yet.

I did, about a year-and-a-half ago. The mainboard was in pretty rough shape, a lot of corrosion around the battery holder. I felt good upon getting it back all the issues were resolved but this thing is 35 years old and I feel like I may just be playing whack-a-mole now trying to fix sporadic issues that pop up. Below is a pic of one of the suspect areas.

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You can get rid of much of what's in that area by using a reset generator --

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#An_Alternative_to_Rebuilding_the_Reset_Circuit_.2F_Using_a_Reset_Generator_.28System_9.29

That's probably what I would do if there was that much damage. There's no reason it can't be fixed/repaired as is... but if you don't get all corrosion damage the first time, damage can continue to occur over time... so might just be simpler / more stable to go the reset generator route here.

Thanks O. Actually read through that section on pinwiki a couple nights ago and wondered if this might be a candidate for that. I've been doing a lot of research,and a lot of head-scratching trying to figure my next course of action. Honestly I'm a little intimidated by this amount of board work, but more intimidated by the price of a new rotten dog board.