Yeah but you went down to play 3 days ago.

We have an SS at our league location (industrial unit with 24 pins) with a CPR playfield, I have one with a hardtop and my buddy has one with an original playfield. League and home are set to 3 balls, my buddy has his set to 5 (which feels wrong to me).

I can easily put up over a million or two on the league game. I've seen someone put up 8 million on that one. Spinner spins forever, no extra balls.
I can break a million on mine every so often, the spinner needs some work as it doesn't seem as smooth. Plays really fast, factory settings all around. Haven't put that many games on it as I finished the install/restore about a week ago.
Played my buddy's game tonight and easily broke a million by ball 3. Was just screwing around and not really focusing.

Obviously, depending on the game and setup, your mileage may vary!

Whelp, I typically struggle to break 1 million. My highs were 2.5M, 1.8M, 1.8M, & maybe 1.5M.

After moving the outlane posts down one little notch, I played one game. One game. ONE. GAME.

3.4 MILLION!

Got 2 extra balls. That's a first. 1st one by SHUTTLE award, 2nd one by the dead-end ramp (which I think lit after maxing the bonus multiplier...another first...).

There were definitely a couple of times where I think the outlanes saved me, but it felt as if I could attribute that score mostly to a fluke outlandishly stellar game. It was a really fun ride.

That's just 1 data point. I'll collect more data soon. My son's going to be upset with me--I knocked his 2nd-place score down to 3rd!

Thanks,
-Jason

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Alright, I'm going to have to look into these posts too. I didn't see anything that appeared adjustable on my hardtop so I'm going to have to look closer / in the manual I guess.

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You're not the only one, after seeing Tony and Jason's post yesterday got me thinking about those out lanes. I'll admit I had no idea there were different settings but like you , I noticed nothing on the hardtop and don't remember any pre-drilled holes in the Playfield that would have suggested you could move those posts. After looking closely on the right hand side of my machine, just based on the graphics under the plastic you would think that post could be moved three quarters of an inch.

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So, higher up = more forgiving; lower = brutal b!tch from hell? If so, doesn't it appear that the right side is pretty forgiving while the left is brutal on the base hardtop layout? Or am I just dumb? lol

I would think the higher up would be the more brutal, just more space to allow the ball access to that outlane. Or am I just dumb?

Giving it more thought, any of the changes would have to be pretty subtle so that the top of the post still fits through the elongated holes in the Playfield Plastics.

Man, if having it in the lowest position is the most forgiving and that's how mine is set up...I just quit lmao

Yup, the art on the right outlane makes you think that the post should be WAY lower than it is. The left outlane post aligns w/ the art.

I took a couple quick pictures to show you my setup.
I didn't have time to undo the posts to show you underneath, but you get the idea (I hope).

Left: yes, the post overhangs the art now--a bit dorky--oh well.
Right: hmmm, it looks as if it had previously lived in an even more difficult location before I moved it downward 1 notch from the location it was in when I got it. I think the faster is pretty much at the bottom of the slot in the plastic.

Oh, & I played about 8 games tonight. Got nowhere near 1M. So that 3.4M score from last night was indeed a fluke. Good. I don't want to have made the game artificially trivially easy by moving the posts just 1 notch.

Thanks,
-Jason

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Managed to dig up a few photos from my
hardtop installation,not the best but they do show those holes.Who knew.

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Ditto. Not sure I feel comfortable blind drilling though... I'll probably just leave it be.

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Ditto.lol

New to club as of Sunday.

I've never sanded down a playfield and am hoping you can tell me what grit to use?
Also can I use a regular cheap harbor freight sander?

Worried about inserts.

Thanks in advance

Light issues.

Upper row on Backglass not working at all?

Don't see any breaks in wires.
Not sure where to begin I'm not a technician by any stretch of the imagination.

I used a Ryobi corner cat sander and as low as 80 grit. But be careful around inserts because you're right, those can be damaged in a hurry.

A safer, albeit slower, method would be to not go below 120 or even 240 grit. Go slow, be purposeful with your work. You can't walk it back if you go too far.

Welcome!

We had a pretty robust conversation about sanding back here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-crew-members-club-prepare-for-liftoff/page/52#post-5567137

I used the harbor freight sander.

FWIW, I was lazy when I added the Hardtop and just barely sanded the playfield with 150 grit to take of any debris. I place the Hardtop directly over the existing graphics and was surprised by how good it came out. It lined up perfectly but it take two people and was a challenge to line it up where you don't see double.

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Are you happy with result?

How long did it take not including removing parts or replacing them?

If art is still intacted under does it even matter to go down to bare wood?

I'm very happy with the result.
I only sanded for about 15 to 20 mins until it felt smooth. Most of the graphics were still there.
I got my wife to help me hold the Hardtop to line it up perfectly and then pressed it down. That part only took 5 mins.
I really don't see the need to sand off the old graphics. Just my opinion.

The therapy that comes from seeing bare wood!

But you're right, I don't think it's required for adhesion.

Used gaskets and vinyl masks from Xpin to clean up my displays. Still don't like these Rottendog displays all that much but it is what it is. Certainly looks better than it did with all the light bleed.

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Said it before and will again. These displays look awesome in this game. And require just some basic soldering skills and patience. Everyone who plays the game says they look fantastic. I don't think you would have any regrets installing them, unless you're a traditionalist, which I'm not!

https://www.wolffpactech.com/

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Found this little astronaut in my box of pinball parts. Anyone need him? $10

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Must be something in the air, my shuttle just started doing the same thing I'm kind of at a loss. Wondering if you had any luck with the sound issues. Coolpinballadinos answer was to sell the machine to someone who wanted a project game (that's not an option for me). I'm thinking maybe replacing the cap at C7, but that's more of a hunch than anything else. I'm open to ideas here.

Keep that thing away from my shuttle!

Lol. As long as you keep the coin slot covered with a mask, it should be fine. Seriously, I'm at a loss. I started a help me thread, hopefully there's some other pinheadz
with more experience then myself to https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-squealing-like-a-stuck-hog-then-silence ease me through this.

I haven’t had much more time to dig into mine... hoping you come up with an easy fix!

Good news, we might be in luck. After some guidance from another pinsider it has been determined that it may be a faulty 6808 processor. Simple to test, simple to replace. Faulty chip in question is the 6808 located at U11, if you swap this out with the 6808 located at U17 and the game does not boot, then chances are it is a faulty chip. (This is a socketed chip so it's simply pops out and Pops back in)I Have the part on order ,will let you know if this resolves the issue. Let me know if you have any questions.

I think you’re on to something here. Swapped U11 with U17.. game powered on but did not boot. Pushed the sound test in the back box and it successfully ran through all the speech sounds! New 6808 is on the way!

You may just have to let me know if that pans out. My machine had been without sound for 10 days before I ordered the part, the night I ordered the part the sound symptoms went away. Everything's working the way it's supposed to right now. If it continues to work I probably won't swap that chip when it arrives. I'll hold it in reserve for when it decides to go tits up again.good luck.

I should have kept my mouth shut, no sound this morning. Part should be here by Tuesday

Voice not clean? Hard to make out what is being said?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This pins a blast and my 14 who rarely plays has put 300 games on in a week and a half.lol

Sweet find for $600

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installed the new 6808 chip yesterday , that was the ticket. The game sounds great!

I played a quick game and the row of all of the X lights are out 2x, 3x, 4x Etc. They are not on in the game or attract mode. Yes I checked the bulbs. I have not dug out the manual yet to try and track down the problem. Hopefully someone can help.
Thanks, Jeff

The 2x-7x lights are on lamp matrix column 2 (YEL-RED, 1J7-2).

Also on this are "Flipper - Return Lns" and "Left Lock". If its a column problem, those two lights won't come on either.

We had a similar problem with column 7, the stop & score x2 plfd and bonus 1000-7000 lights were out.

We did the lamp matrix upgrade detailed on Pinwiki and it solved this problem, suggesting that in our case, one of the lamp matrix transistors or resistors failed, or had a bad solder joint, etc.

Sounds like good Advice, it was , after all oliviarium who steered me right with my sound issue. Thanks again O.

Mine just did the same thing

Okay. There is way too much coincidence going on with this forum.

I think we're going to have to stop posting about issues on here. They seem to be hexing other players.

Its like the market place you won't see a title for sale for a year then 3 pop up the same day. My displays started acting funny first which consensus says I need to rebuild the PS so I wonder if that ties into other things starting to go bad or just the fact it went from one basement rarely played to another basement and getting hours of play most days.

I just started a rebuild of one that had been sitting in a warehouse reportedly for 20 years...

Had a bad 6808 in the CPU slot
Lamp Column Out
Inconsistent 12v to the reset circuit
Swollen caps on power supply
Weird mylar and playfield wear patterns
Odd bits of metal where bits of metal should not be
Master and 2 player displays gassed (even after reflowing did not work on SS or a Solar Fire we have... Solar Fires displays worked on it)

So I think I just "lucked out" in that I've recently had to fix the problems other people are finding lately.

In the midst of a cab repaint and playfield swap. Fun times will be had by all

Nice! I am supposed to get a new chip delivered Friday. Hope this is the fix.

Be aware that there seem to be many fakes out in the market right now. Thread below has some details of my adventure with Hitachi 6808s (maybe 6802s?) that were rebranded as Motorola 6808.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/suspected-rebranded-6808-validate-my-theory

For Space Shuttle, this matters because Pin 38 needs to be treated differently between the manufacturers, namely if its a Hitachi you want to bend out pin 38 so it doesn't connect to ground.

There's some good insight in that thread. The photo is a comparison of the original Motorola chip I removed,(bottom) and (top) Hitachi chip with pin 38 bent out(courtesy of oliviarium ). Aside from the questionable markings it seems the Motorola chips all have a notch on the left side top that is not on the Hitachi. I ended up using a Motorola chip from PBL.

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Nice looking SS! Perhaps this was already addressed but where did you get the clear ramp plastic?

Starship Fantasy has the ramps. They did a limited run of clear, so they're not on the website, you have to ask Larry if he still has some in stock. Last I checked, he did but don't buy the last one because I can't make my purchase until the spring.

Last night was a good night, sound and a new high score. Five balls.

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Great score but I can't accept the 5 ball setting!