(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!


By E_N_3

7 years ago



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#3001 5 months ago

I bought the F-14 because I thought it was "cheap" at $1400 (+$50 delivery from Iowa) and I'm basically getting back what I have in it. And that's after a TON of hours dialing it in and installing new target lollipops and other misc goodies..just to get rid of it -- assuming it actually goes as planned -- so I can get something else at some point.

Honestly I've struggled to rank Shuttle highly in my list vs. my other games for a while (again, not because of the game itself, but because I'm so damn agitated I can't come CLOSE to the factory leaderboard).. but I love it, and I think it's one of my 'prettiest' games, with the clear ramp and hardtop..it's not going anywhere. Someday I'll stop being terrible at it and it'll rocket (ha ha ha, that was a good one) way up the list. F-14 can go, again mainly because I don't want to pretty it up rather than anything else, I'm too heavy on Ritchie games, and kind of on Sys11 games as well...

#3002 5 months ago

Your boredom with the thread has immpecible timing! I'm ready for everyone to finally help me figure out this stupid light gremlin. apinjunkie we were just revisiting the issue when you turned the thread onto your amazing 3D project.

From https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-crew-members-club-prepare-for-liftoff/page/56#post-5617928

To recap:
Gremlin 2
I am also having weird issues with the Shuttle Value lamps and outlane "Score Shuttle" lamps. While testing with the ball out, if I hit the pop bumper skirts the aforementioned lamps turn off and on. I assume the pops are not built to function that way. Is that the vibration is triggering something or I didn't do a good job putting my pops back together (grounds and resoldering new diodes)? This same thing happens even on the startup of a game. Random shuttle values and the outline bonus are lit.

I need to better understand how gameplay is supposed to work so I know what is wrong. Please answer the following:

1) When the pops register, is it suppsed to cycle between the 20k, 50k, and 100k inserts?
2) Do corresponding USA rollover switches light the Bonus Holdover, Lite Outlanes and Extra Ball inserts?
3) Should 100k insert always be on? (Okay, I know the answer is no.)

Here is a visual explanation:
IMG_20200426_153841 (1) (resized).jpg

What's up with that 100k lamp? Is this a diode thing? Is it a connector thing? Would the lamp stuck on be the diode busted up and blocking all the energy?!

Switch matrix column of note
IMG_20200426_154603 (1) (resized).jpg

Should I be focusing on the lamp matrix instead?

#3003 5 months ago
Quoted from misterhare:

Your boredom with the thread has immpecible timing! I'm ready for everyone to finally help me figure out this stupid light gremlin. apinjunkie we were just revisiting the issue when you turned the thread onto your amazing 3D project.
From https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-crew-members-club-prepare-for-liftoff/page/56#post-5617928
To recap:
Gremlin 2
I am also having weird issues with the Shuttle Value lamps and outlane "Score Shuttle" lamps. While testing with the ball out, if I hit the pop bumper skirts the aforementioned lamps turn off and on. I assume the pops are not built to function that way. Is that the vibration is triggering something or I didn't do a good job putting my pops back together (grounds and resoldering new diodes)? This same thing happens even on the startup of a game. Random shuttle values and the outline bonus are lit.
I need to better understand how gameplay is supposed to work so I know what is wrong. Please answer the following:
1) When the pops register, is it suppsed to cycle between the 20k, 50k, and 100k inserts?
2) Do corresponding USA rollover switches light the Bonus Holdover, Lite Outlanes and Extra Ball inserts?
3) Should 100k insert always be on? (Okay, I know the answer is no.)
Here is a visual explanation:
[quoted image]
What's up with that 100k lamp? Is this a diode thing? Is it a connector thing? Would the lamp stuck on be the diode busted up and blocking all the energy?!
Switch matrix column of note
[quoted image]
Should I be focusing on the lamp matrix instead?

Sounds like a bit of a shitshow. Simple quick answer to questions one two and three are no, no, and no.
As far as the way things are supposed to go, your pop bumpers shouldn't change any lights on the machine when triggered. Your USA rollovers should only affect your 2 * 3 * 4 *etc. Multiplier lights . They should Advance each time you complete USA . There should never be more than one of the shuttle value lights lit at any given time. Those will change randomly at the beginning of each ball, when all of the shuttle letter targets are hit, or it will reshuffle when you hit the target up the right ramp. Your bonus hold light and your hundred thousand light outside Lane lights should only come on when that goal has been achieved through the shuttle value bonus.( I would guess if yours are always on that its probably part of the broader issue, and not something like a diode.)
I had a very similar problem with mine after I had some board work done. I reconnected one of my board connectors off by one pin. The lights worked but we're totally random and f*****. If I Were Me , I would double check your connections on your board.
Hope that helps, now here's another picture of my 3D truss mod.

20200630_225355 (resized).jpg
#3004 5 months ago

Do you possibly have a lamp row/column that's screwed up? I had two rows that were jacked on my high speed and fixed one by checking diodes and bending them all slightly, a few must have been shorting against metal. I still have one more row to fix at some point, but I've been lazy. It's annoying but I'm living with it.

I didn't really read THOROUGHLY, sorry, super lazy right at 1AM, but if you check your problem lamps, see if you can find common row or column patterns and go from there. I would say that unless the SCORING specifically is doing something stupid then no, you don't care about the switch matrix right now. You're chasing lighting woes, so.. lamp matrix. That said, I'm a noob and it's late, so.. Get some better opinions

#3005 5 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Do you possibly have a lamp row/column that's screwed up? I had two rows that were jacked on my high speed and fixed one by checking diodes and bending them all slightly, a few must have been shorting against metal. I still have one more row to fix at some point, but I've been lazy. It's annoying but I'm living with it.
I didn't really read THOROUGHLY, sorry, super lazy right at 1AM, but if you check your problem lamps, see if you can find common row or column patterns and go from there.

Definitely agree, probably in the lamp Matrix more than the switch Matrix.

#3006 5 months ago

This section of mrm_4's Firepower resotre stuck in my head.
diode failure (resized).png

I'm going to put a new diode on the 100k lamp this morning and see if that fixes it.

UPDATE: Replacing the 100k diode didn't change anything. That lamp is still on all the time.

#3007 5 months ago
Quoted from misterhare:

This section of mrm_4's Firepower resotre stuck in my head.
[quoted image]
I'm going to put a new diode on the 100k lamp this morning and see if that fixes it.
UPDATE: Replacing the 100k diode didn't change anything. That lamp is still on all the time.

I'm still leaning towards one of these connectors, would definitely double check and make sure they're seated properly. I j7 can take a lot of heat, and get brittle over time.

20200725_102934 (resized).jpg
#3008 5 months ago


I found this video of me troubleshooting a similar issue from a little over a year ago. I mentioned in the video that I double checked the connectors, upon triple checking the connectors I realized one was off by one pin. Operator error, go figure.

#3009 5 months ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

I found this video of me troubleshooting a similar issue from a little over a year ago. I mentioned in the video that I double checked the connectors, upon triple checking the connectors I realized one was off by one pin. Operator error, go figure.

Yeah, this is very similar to what I'm seeing. That's weirdly encouraging. Thanks for digging up the video again.

I'll check connections again later today. Check back later. Same space time! Same space channel!

#3010 5 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I told her I would stop at 5...Then I got 6..Then 7..Then 8..Now 9...
I am at *MAX* capacity for the space I said I would potentially occupy, and that's with two machines (Cactus Jack's and Meteor) on the opposite side of "pinball row", against the wall next to my Neo Geo MVS. Technically I have room for 8 set up like this.. I needed to get back to 7 *here* because once my Eight Ball Deluxe is finished and comes home, I'll be back to 8 again, and again..at capacity. My next goal is to get rid of F-14 (before the hardtop comes out and my stupid a$$ hardtops it and fixes/repaints the cab, which I *do*not*want*to*do* but will absolutely do because I apparently hate myself) and replace it with a DE Jurassic Park or whatever glitzy turd pops up in front of me next. I've got pinball ADHD it would appear.
Tl;dr:
"Heh."

This is awesome and should be in the confessional thread.

#3011 5 months ago
Quoted from RCA1:

This is awesome and should be in the confessional thread.

God help me.

#3012 5 months ago

It's okay blind squirrel. You're amongst friends here, we all suffer from the same addiction.

#3013 5 months ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

It's okay blind squirrel. You're amongst friends here, we all suffer from the same addiction.

I've genuinely hit the point where I'm scared I MIGHT find some deal I can't pass up and then I'll find myself dragging another poor neglected child home to nurse back to life.. Just a lost shepherd tending to his flock...

#3014 5 months ago

Well, I did some jiggling and re-seating of the connectors in question last night and it didn't change anything.

Should I use a small flathead screwdriver and give the wires in the connectors a little bit of pressure?

Pull each wire and re-seat in the connectors?

#3015 5 months ago
Quoted from misterhare:

Well, I did some jiggling and re-seating of the connectors in question last night and it didn't change anything.
Should I use a small flathead screwdriver and give the wires in the connectors a little bit of pressure?
Pull each wire and re-seat in the connectors?

I'm not quite sure what to tell you, but that won't stop me from talking. It sounds like everything's making a good connection but from the symptoms you described it's possible something is not wired correctly. I would check the lamp Matrix chart, find the row or column with the corresponding problem and double-check that the wiring sequence is correct in those connectors.

#3016 5 months ago

Based on this photo you provided in a previous post you may want to question the work that was done by the previous owner. It looks like he installed a new header pin at I j7, the old one probably cooked by those resistors ,which look like they've scene there better days. Could be he screwed the pooch when he attached that new header pin. Hate to say it, but if the simpler solution doesn't present itself you might be looking at that boardwork you didn't want to tackle previously.

Screenshot_20200726-130544_Chrome (resized).jpg

#3017 5 months ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Based on this photo you provided in a previous post you may want to question the work that was done by the previous owner. It looks like he installed a new header pin at I j7, the old one probably cooked by those resistors ,which look like they've scene there better days. Could be he screwed the pooch when he attached that new header pin. Hate to say it, but if the simpler solution doesn't present itself you might be looking at that boardwork you didn't want to tackle previously.
[quoted image]

All great points. I poked around again tonight. Tried reseating the wires but it didn't help. It seems like the issue is in board logic since the 100k light is still saying on the whole game.

Son of a...

#3018 5 months ago

If you don't find a solution for yourself and end up having board work done, I highly suggest sending the boards--all of them--to Eugene Marsh for complete servicing, updating, and bulletproofing. He gets all of my boards (including Shuttle, which had a lovely 'fixed' transistor for one of the pops when I bought it) and they always come back good as new. I don't think he's giving me any sort of bro price on things and it ends up costing me around $180-200 per board set, with all shipping included both ways. Worth it in the long run, IMO, to never have to worry about 95% of this crap.

He'll also verify that you don't have a board issue with your lighting problem, at which point you'll know it's under your playfield, like mine is with my High Speed. Then you get the fun of tracking it down..like I still need to do. Aint pinball fun?!

Also make sure you fuse your bridges with the 8A blocks on your game. Every single machine should have this done. Period. No questions.

If you need fuses and blocks LMK, I have extras and would send you a pair (or however many you need) at cost + free shipping.

#3019 5 months ago
Quoted from misterhare:

All great points. I poked around again tonight. Tried reseating the wires but it didn't help. It seems like the issue is in board logic since the 100k light is still saying on the whole game.
Son of a...

Yes the space shuttle can be an evil mistress. Worth pursuing though. When this game is dialed in and fully functioning, it is definitely a sweet ride. Maybe try reaching out to one of the technical help forms.

#3020 5 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

If you don't find a solution for yourself and end up having board work done, I highly suggest sending the boards--all of them--to Eugene Marsh for complete servicing, updating, and bulletproofing. He gets all of my boards (including Shuttle, which had a lovely 'fixed' transistor for one of the pops when I bought it) and they always come back good as new. I don't think he's giving me any sort of bro price on things and it ends up costing me around $180-200 per board set, with all shipping included both ways. Worth it in the long run, IMO, to never have to worry about 95% of this crap.
He'll also verify that you don't have a board issue with your lighting problem, at which point you'll know it's under your playfield, like mine is with my High Speed. Then you get the fun of tracking it down..like I still need to do. Aint pinball fun?!
Also make sure you fuse your bridges with the 8A blocks on your game. Every single machine should have this done. Period. No questions.
If you need fuses and blocks LMK, I have extras and would send you a pair (or however many you need) at cost + free shipping.

PM sent to you for details. Thanks.

#3021 5 months ago

Replied. Did you do the 8A bridge fireproofing? It's super easy, takes about 10 minutes.

#3022 5 months ago

I have the opportunity to purchase a space shuttle that will need hard topped for 1000. Mechanically all the switches and rollovers look good. And also the motherboard has batteries moved off main board and no signs of corrosion. Does this sound like a good deal? Cabinet is in decent condition no major scuffs or abuse. Back glass does have some peeling or lifting of the areas.

What would you do?

#3023 5 months ago
Quoted from MDBradley:

I have the opportunity to purchase a space shuttle that will need hard topped for 1000. Mechanically all the switches and rollovers look good. And also the motherboard has batteries moved off main board and no signs of corrosion. Does this sound like a good deal? Cabinet is in decent condition no major scuffs or abuse. Back glass does have some peeling or lifting of the areas.
What would you do?

Buy the hell out of that. $1000 is a great entry point.

Hello fellow Kansasn!

#3024 5 months ago
Quoted from MDBradley:

I have the opportunity to purchase a space shuttle that will need hard topped for 1000. Mechanically all the switches and rollovers look good. And also the motherboard has batteries moved off main board and no signs of corrosion. Does this sound like a good deal? Cabinet is in decent condition no major scuffs or abuse. Back glass does have some peeling or lifting of the areas.
What would you do?

Yep, that's a good price.

#3025 5 months ago
Quoted from MDBradley:

I have the opportunity to purchase a space shuttle that will need hard topped for 1000. Mechanically all the switches and rollovers look good. And also the motherboard has batteries moved off main board and no signs of corrosion. Does this sound like a good deal? Cabinet is in decent condition no major scuffs or abuse. Back glass does have some peeling or lifting of the areas.
What would you do?

Jump On It , that's what I would do if I were me.

#3026 5 months ago

Thanks guys. I thought it likely looked like a good deal. Just finished my Firepower hardtop so hoping this one will be quicker. One less pop bumper to deal with thankfully!

Now just to read through this post to see how everyone has modded theirs out.

I'm sure I'll have more questions here as I get into this teardown and restore! Consider me a new member!

#3027 5 months ago
Quoted from MDBradley:

Thanks guys. I thought it likely looked like a good deal. Just finished my Firepower hardtop so hoping this one will be quicker. One less pop bumper to deal with thankfully!
Now just to read through this post to see how everyone has modded theirs out.
I'm sure I'll have more questions here as I get into this teardown and restore! Consider me a new member!

Welcome aboard! Good to hear you're jumping right in with the hardtop, it's a great way to familiarize yourself with a lot of aspects of this machine.

#3028 5 months ago
Quoted from MDBradley:

Just finished my Firepower hardtop so hoping this one will be quicker. One less pop bumper to deal with thankfully!

No star rollovers to deal with either. I've done both and Space Shuttle is a little easier.

#3029 5 months ago

Can someone help confirm this is the hot dog version? Assuming the non hot dog is where it has the 3 inch circles vs hot dog insert? Would like to order the hard too here soon!

6B4D5768-2620-488F-8FB8-9B49A983CE3A (resized).jpegF7170064-906A-44F6-BE9D-32B1B57ED1F5 (resized).jpeg
#3030 5 months ago
Quoted from MDBradley:

Can someone help confirm this is the hot dog version? Assuming the non hot dog is where it has the 3 inch circles vs hot dog insert? Would like to order the hard too here soon!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes ,those are the hot dogs.

#3031 5 months ago

Hot dog hot dog hot diggity dog, that's a nice enough looking $1000 shuttle all day, every day!

#3032 5 months ago
Quoted from MDBradley:

Now just to read through this post to see how everyone has modded theirs out.

Here's something I thought about AFTER I put down my hardtop. Remove the 3 green USA inserts above the rollover lanes and replace them with clear regular or starburst inserts. I've always thought the green didn't make the most sense for those. If you put clear ones in there you have a lot more options. You can just put in green bulbs for the "traditional" look or perhaps red/white/blue or other colours.

I replaced all my posts and lane guides with clear and I did my pops red/white/blue along with the spinner arrows. I will leave the GI white for now.

spaceshuttle1 (resized).jpg

spaceshuttle2 (resized).jpg

I'm not a traditionalist so I don't mind making changes as long as they are tasteful. Well, tasteful to me at least!

#3033 5 months ago

Been wanting to join the club for years and finally found a very fair deal local and jumped on it. I added led's,took off all the plastics and ramps to clean,polish,adjust and rerubber. Cabinet is pretty nice as well as the backglass the playfield is meh but for a SS it's not that bad and the inserts are all pretty much level.The sound wasnt working and my tech found one of the sockets had a broken leg not connecting with one of the pins of the chip and swapped in a new one and now we have liftoff. I noticed I have 3 insert and not the hotdog insert does that just mean ones an early production machine?

15960558594021586334029678120334 (resized).jpg15960557950285260186761286884370 (resized).jpg15960558348961759442965195807535 (resized).jpg15960558872993531309623905468902 (resized).jpg

#3034 5 months ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Here's something I thought about AFTER I put down my hardtop. Remove the 3 green USA inserts above the rollover lanes and replace them with clear regular or starburst inserts. I've always thought the green didn't make the most sense for those. If you put clear ones in there you have a lot more options. You can just put in green bulbs for the "traditional" look or perhaps red/white/blue or other colours.
I replaced all my posts and lane guides with clear and I did my pops red/white/blue along with the spinner arrows. I will leave the GI white for now.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I'm not a traditionalist so I don't mind making changes as long as they are tasteful. Well, tasteful to me at least!

Really nice looking Rendition. Those blue side rails are superb and those pops are absolutely otherworldly. I couldn't agree more about the green inserts, just look out of place on this machine, replacing with clear would open up a lot of lighting options. I ended up swapping out with blue inserts and have no regrets.

#3035 5 months ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Been wanting to join the club for years and finally found a very fair deal local and jumped on it. I added led's,took off all the plastics and ramps to clean,polish,adjust and rerubber. Cabinet is pretty nice as well as the backglass the playfield is meh but for a SS it's not that bad and the inserts are all pretty much level.The sound wasnt working and my tech found one of the sockets had a broken leg not connecting with one of the pins of the chip and swapped in a new one and now we have liftoff. I noticed I have 3 insert and not the hotdog insert does that just mean ones an early production machine?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome , fellow space Traveler. That's a decent looking machine and that play field is in remarkably good shape considering it's 35 years old. As far as those hot dog versus Circle inserts go, I'm not sure if they were done earlier or later in the run but I do know that there were less of the circle inserts made then the more traditional hot dog insert.

#3036 5 months ago

So glad to have more in the club saving the machine that saved pinball!

#3037 5 months ago
Quoted from misterhare:

So glad to have more in the club saving the machine that saved pinball!

I forget who said it to me but they said "my goal is to make every machine a little nicer than when I got it" and it stuck with me and that is my goal. If everyone did this these machines can outlive all of us.

#3038 5 months ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

I forget who said it to me but they said "my goal is to make every machine a little nicer than when I got it" and it stuck with me and that is my goal. If everyone did this these machines can outlive all of us.

Not saying you heard it from me, but that's one of my commonly-said phrases.

There are fixers and there are restorers. I fix what's broken, and play. Occasionally I'll try improving things past the point of just properly working, but my main goal is proper function and maintenance. I don't typically have the chops for restoration, both in budget and in patience....oh, and in skill.

#3039 5 months ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Here's something I thought about AFTER I put down my hardtop. Remove the 3 green USA inserts above the rollover lanes and replace them with clear regular or starburst inserts. I've always thought the green didn't make the most sense for those. If you put clear ones in there you have a lot more options. You can just put in green bulbs for the "traditional" look or perhaps red/white/blue or other colours.
I replaced all my posts and lane guides with clear and I did my pops red/white/blue along with the spinner arrows. I will leave the GI white for now.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I'm not a traditionalist so I don't mind making changes as long as they are tasteful. Well, tasteful to me at least!

What color blue did you do for the rails? They look great! I did the same thing to my Firepower and will plan to do this here as well. I'm debating on removing the old "opaque" white inserts in lieu of clear as well. Just personal preference to me. Removed them on Firepower and the machine just looks more "modern" now.

#3040 5 months ago

Had to share this, and start with a special thank you to Tony goingincirclez , who really went above and beyond to make this happen. Here's a couple shots with the new speaker panel, not installed proper, just held in place with gravity for now. I had to know. I know I've said this before when I put something new on the machine but, "BOING "(space wood)

20200803_112103 (resized).jpg20200803_110025 (resized).jpg20200803_105831 (resized).jpg
#3041 5 months ago

Man that's sharp!

#3042 5 months ago

I'm really digging it. Although it makes me miss my original back glass.

#3043 5 months ago

Okay,I think I'm done playing in the sandbox for a little while. Proper installation only took 10 minutes. Here's a quick video of the way the lights play off that speaker panel from a player's perspective. I couldn't be happier!

#3044 5 months ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Okay,I think I'm done playing in the sandbox for a little while. Proper installation only took 10 minutes. Here's a quick video of the way the lights play off that speaker panel from a player's perspective. I couldn't be happier!

Amazing. Looks like re-entry!

#3045 5 months ago
Quoted from MDBradley:

What color blue did you do for the rails? They look great! I did the same thing to my Firepower and will plan to do this here as well. I'm debating on removing the old "opaque" white inserts in lieu of clear as well. Just personal preference to me. Removed them on Firepower and the machine just looks more "modern" now.

SSpaint (resized).jpg

Every game I do any type of restore on gets new oak rails. I just get some hobby oak from Home Depot, cut it size with my table saw, a bit of sanding a few coats of paint and it's good to go. This blue matched the game really nicely.

I also bought a set of blue LED displays from Wolfpac Tech (www.wolffpactech.com) and I have to say they look amazing! As long as you can do some basic soldering you can put them together. It's an easy upgrade plus you don't have to use the high voltage section of your power supply as these run off 5v.

#3046 5 months ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

[quoted image]
Every game I do any type of restore on gets new oak rails. I just get some hobby oak from Home Depot, cut it size with my table saw, a bit of sanding a few coats of paint and it's good to go. This blue matched the game really nicely.
I also bought a set of blue LED displays from Wolfpac Tech (www.wolffpactech.com) and I have to say they look amazing! As long as you can do some basic soldering you can put them together. It's an easy upgrade plus you don't have to use the high voltage section of your power supply as these run off 5v.

I was considering the Wolfpac Tech orange for my crummy displays, but I was intimidated by the soldering. What do you qualify as "basic soldering"? How long have you been soldering?

#3047 5 months ago

Wow apinjunkie, that reflection looks amazing! Looks like your custom overlay lends a lot to the effect. I'm glad the panel finally concluded its long delayed journey safe and sound, and that you're happy with it. A nice added touch for a finely customized machine

#3048 5 months ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Wow apinjunkie, that reflection looks amazing! Looks like your custom overlay lends a lot to the effect. I'm glad the panel finally concluded its long delayed journey safe and sound, and that you're happy with it. A nice added touch for a finely customized machine

Thanks for the praise Tony, but this upgrade is all on you. Appreciate you working with me to make this happen. Keep Flippin.

#3049 5 months ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Okay,I think I'm done playing in the sandbox for a little while. Proper installation only took 10 minutes. Here's a quick video of the way the lights play off that speaker panel from a player's perspective. I couldn't be happier!

Sounds like you need to tighten down the screws on the MPU -- better grounding there will reduce that hum that's in sync with the lights.

#3050 5 months ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Sounds like you need to tighten down the screws on the MPU -- better grounding there will reduce that hum that's in sync with the lights.

Yeah, definitely time to retighten those screws on the board. Doesn't really sound that bad in person, but when you point the camera directly at the machine it sure does pick up the," shuttle buzz".

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Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
$ 17.00
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 76.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 39.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
From: € 90.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Creo Pinball
From: $ 218.00
$ 20.00
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Haus
$ 65.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
$ 102.00
$ 48.00
Cabinet - Other
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 134.99
Playfield - Plastics
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 19.95
Playfield - Protection
SilverBall Designs
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