(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!


By E_N_3

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,294 posts
  • 198 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by KSUWildcatFan
  • Topic is favorited by 99 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 720 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20191128_093809 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191128_093644 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191122_151610 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191122_151652 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191122_151642 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191119_212416 (resized).jpg
4C5769C7-2210-4991-B551-6088F72FC011 (resized).jpeg
1F5D6C08-AF3D-445E-B8BB-9C9FF341A2C5 (resized).jpeg
234CE127-B868-4BB0-B1D4-1204B08027DD (resized).jpeg
785F07C4-A3B6-455E-90FB-A14E38F13151 (resized).jpeg
7D19F979-E63B-409C-BA41-E2F536F5E4A5 (resized).jpeg
B8B5428B-A758-45C2-B7DF-86CBF320F319 (resized).jpeg
28694006-1759-4774-B67B-8E466E052932 (resized).jpeg
FD127B1A-411B-451C-8C7C-2932B39F3B59 (resized).jpeg
CB9A6CF9-4213-4C68-9304-E09802F51C69 (resized).jpeg
AD46015F-2A5E-4E00-ACC0-A791F1DD0823 (resized).jpeg

There are 2294 posts in this topic. You are on page 46 of 46.
#2251 40 days ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

My hot dog flashers stopped working for me. I installed 89 flasher bulbs in there (I thought only system 11 games needed the mod). I replaced the two white block resistors(?) , put regular bulbs back in but still no dice. Is there someplace on the MPU I need to look to see if something burned up? Only those two red hot dog flashers don't work. Thanks in advance!

#2252 37 days ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

My hot dog flashers stopped working for me. I installed 89 flasher bulbs in there (I thought only system 11 games needed the mod). I replaced the two white block resistors(?) but still no dice. Is there someplace on the MPU I need to look to see if something burned up? Only those two hot dog flashers don't work. Thanks in advance!

There is usually a transistor that goes with those flashers. Looks like Q54 and Q55 run those flasher lamps. You could start there checking them with a multimeter.

#2253 37 days ago

This is probably a really stupid and generic question but the only issue I have with my SS is that one of the bumpers (the right pop, next to the "A" lane) doesn't always respond terribly well if the ball lazily hits the skirt from the top. It seems to me that the skirt is too tight against the spoon or something. I've fiddled with it a bit and it's USUALLY a bit better, but not always. It drives me nuts when it doesn't pop like it's supposed to. I don't think it's a switch gap issue, but I suppose I could make that tighter if needed. Iirc it NEVER fails to register a hit from the side or bottom but it's also pretty much impossible to lazily hit it from either of those directions also..

Everything was rebuilt not that long ago (not by me) when it was hardtopped so it's not sitting here with 30 years of neglect or something.

#2254 37 days ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

There is usually a transistor that goes with those flashers. Looks like Q54 and Q55 run those flasher lamps. You could start there checking them with a multimeter.

Thanks very much. Is that on the main MPU? I wonder if I can find a schematic so I can figure out the values. Thanks!

#2255 37 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

one of the bumpers (the right pop, next to the "A" lane) doesn't always respond terribly well if the ball lazily hits the skirt from the top. It seems to me that the skirt is too tight against the spoon or something. I've fiddled with it a bit and it's USUALLY a bit better, but not always. It drives me nuts when it doesn't pop like it's supposed to. I don't think it's a switch gap issue...

That's a pretty common issue with pop bumpers. Switch gap is only part of it. More importantly, you need to make sure the skirt pylon is absolutely dead center in the spoon. After that, it needs to be low enough in the spoon - almost touching - so that any pressure anywhere on the skirt, will move the pylon into the edges of the spoon (to press the switch, etc...).

It's one of those things that's kinda aggravating at times because it's pretty straightforward, but might take lots of fiddling. Be advised, you might have to adjust the switch stack (loosen the screws and move it slightly) to get the right adjustments. Make sure the pop bumper mech moves smoothly and doesn't bind or catch anything either.

For more info, look up "Vid's Guide to pop bumpers" here on Pinside.

#2256 37 days ago

Yeah, the more I think about it the more I'm realizing I probably just need to loosen the stack and re-center. I was thinking that the fact that the skirt pylon seemed to drag awkwardly against the spoon was something else but it makes perfect sense I'd see it doing what it's doing if it were just not properly aligned. Still pretty new to a lot of this, d'oh!

#2257 37 days ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

I wonder if I can find a schematic so I can figure out the values. Thanks!

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2260/Williams_1984_Space_Shuttle_Instruction_Manual_dated_Nov_3_1984_with_schematics.pdf

Most schematics are available on ipdb.org

#2258 37 days ago

Just wanted to point out. You really should turn the game off before digging in that area. I know it’s a pain but couldn’t count how many times people short stuff out adjusting popbumpers.

#2259 35 days ago

So now I'm at a loss ,installed a new capacitor on the power supply that look bad and still no solenoids fire, still reading 14 volts coming off the capacitor when it should be 28. Really at a loss here open to suggestions if anyone has any idea what Avenue to pursue next

#2260 33 days ago

Ready for liftoff! Finally found the issue again. The 12 pin connector that comes off the power supply board, top pin on the female connector (solenoid ground) damaged. This five-week journey down the rabbit hole started with what I thought was a bad ground , funny how it comes full circle.Happy happy joy joy

#2261 33 days ago

Lol, damn pins got you too. My T target issue sent me down the rabbit home too.

#2262 32 days ago

Apologies if this has already been asked, but does anyone else notice excessive speaker hum that fluctuates with the blinking of the playfield lights during attract mode? I have eight pins, from system 6's to DE dmd's from early 90's, and space shuttle is the only one that has this issue.

If I put the game in diagnostic mode so no playfield lights are on then the noise goes away. It seems to be directly related to playfield lights blinking. Incandescent bulbs being swapped with LED's made no difference. It happens the same with the original power supply and with a brand new rottendog. I replaced the giant filter cap mounted in the back box and no change. Fiddled with the screw mounts and tightening/loosening the circuit boards in the back box with no difference whatsoever.

Does anyone here have the same issue?

I'm considering trying a separate isolated power supply for the sound board.

#2263 32 days ago

Just got this all fixed up. New power supply new cpu with updated roms new sound roms and new 5v displays etc. Works great some playfield wear some cabinet flaws etc. Looking for a value check I suppose on this mechanically sound game with some cosmetic flaws.

B8B5428B-A758-45C2-B7DF-86CBF320F319 (resized).jpeg
#2264 32 days ago

New glass and rubber too
1F5D6C08-AF3D-445E-B8BB-9C9FF341A2C5 (resized).jpeg4C5769C7-2210-4991-B551-6088F72FC011 (resized).jpeg785F07C4-A3B6-455E-90FB-A14E38F13151 (resized).jpeg234CE127-B868-4BB0-B1D4-1204B08027DD (resized).jpeg7D19F979-E63B-409C-BA41-E2F536F5E4A5 (resized).jpeg

#2265 32 days ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Apologies if this has already been asked, but does anyone else notice excessive speaker hum that fluctuates with the blinking of the playfield lights during attract mode?

I have this exact same issue but haven't made it a priority to resolve; looking forward to a response.

#2266 32 days ago

I had this same issue and in my case it was an easy fix. I just tightened all the screws holding the boards in the backbox and it went away. I hope this works for you.

Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Apologies if this has already been asked, but does anyone else notice excessive speaker hum that fluctuates with the blinking of the playfield lights during attract mode? I have eight pins, from system 6's to DE dmd's from early 90's, and space shuttle is the only one that has this issue.
If I put the game in diagnostic mode so no playfield lights are on then the noise goes away. It seems to be directly related to playfield lights blinking. Incandescent bulbs being swapped with LED's made no difference. It happens the same with the original power supply and with a brand new rottendog. I replaced the giant filter cap mounted in the back box and no change. Fiddled with the screw mounts and tightening/loosening the circuit boards in the back box with no difference whatsoever.
Does anyone here have the same issue?
I'm considering trying a separate isolated power supply for the sound board.

#2267 32 days ago

I had the hum, and also had speech issues. I switched out the sound/speech board with new roms and new cable and the hum is gone , and I can now understand what he is saying as well

#2268 32 days ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Apologies if this has already been asked, but does anyone else notice excessive speaker hum that fluctuates with the blinking of the playfield lights during attract mode? Mine was the same way here's what worked for me. tighten the hell out of the screws for the main board but don't use all of them, for some reason less is more with this issue. I think mine is just the top Center ,left and right center and bottom center screws that I have in. I thought that by adding more to secure the board better it wood fix the problem,but only made it worse. Removed extras and again tightened the hell out of them screws and machine runs silent in attract mode now.

#2269 32 days ago

Bad ground
Bad caps
Bad roms
Are the three most common cause of the hum.

#2270 31 days ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

Looking for a value check I suppose on this mechanically sound game with some cosmetic flaws.

Looks like you got an answer, since your ad is showing "Sale Pending."
For what it's worth, I think your asking price was in the ballpark.

#2271 29 days ago

hi all...

i have a simple ask about the code

after watching videos, seems LOCKS are always lit/available on the table, i mean when you have finished your mutiball and are back to 1 ball, you dont have to relight LOCKS...

than, is there a setup in the code where you have to shoot something to first relight the LOCKS (and than makes the game a bit harder & hazardous) ?

tanx

(PS : i have the same ask about GRAND LIZARD)

#2272 29 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

hi all...
i have a simple ask about the code
after wayching videos, seems LOCKS are always lit/available on the table, i mean when you have finished your mutiball and are back to 1 ball, you dont have to relight LOCKS...
than, is there a setup in the code where you have to shoot something to first relight the LOCKS (and than makes the game a bit harder & hazardous) ?
tanx
(PS : i have the same ask about GRAND LIZARD)

Locks are always lit.

#2273 29 days ago

ok, tanx for the answer

#2274 29 days ago

My right flipper isn't changing the lane rollovers, any ideas?

#2275 29 days ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

My right flipper isn't changing the lane rollovers, any ideas?

Try cleaning the flipper contacts if you haven't already

#2276 29 days ago

anyone have a left slingshot plastic I could buy? mine just shattered from a flying ball.

1 week later
#2277 19 days ago

For those looking for a replacement ramp, it looks like Larry at Starship Fantasy may be getting ready to start making them again. You might want to watch this thread...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-ramps-by-starship-fantasy/page/3#post-5311852

#2278 18 days ago

Ugh. Still fighting my right pop bumper. I'm pretty sure all that was wrong was a skirt/spoon alignment (just pressing the skirt up top, it was clear it didn't press the same way as the other two) but now, after messing around with the leafs I have zero action whatsoever on that pop. Then, looking at the board to see if something stood out, I saw this wonderful 'fix'. I don't think it's a contributing factor to this issue, but... Wow.
IMG_20191119_212416 (resized).jpg

Back on task, just how are people adjusting pop bumpers on these? No matter how I prop the playfield, I can't seem to contort myself in such a manner that I can do much of anything pop-related with any ease. It's beyond frustrating.

#2279 16 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Ugh. Still fighting my right pop bumper. I'm pretty sure all that was wrong was a skirt/spoon alignment (just pressing the skirt up top, it was clear it didn't press the same way as the other two) but now, after messing around with the leafs I have zero action whatsoever on that pop. Then, looking at the board to see if something stood out, I saw this wonderful 'fix'. I don't think it's a contributing factor to this issue, but... Wow.
[quoted image]
Back on task, just how are people adjusting pop bumpers on these? No matter how I prop the playfield, I can't seem to contort myself in such a manner that I can do much of anything pop-related with any ease. It's beyond frustrating.

You can *carefully* lift the playfield all way so its pointing straight up in the air, then gently slide the back of the playfield forward just a bit and lean it against the back box. Just make sure it has several degrees tilt towards the back box and its not perfectly straight up, otherwise it could accidentally fall down. All of the wire harnesses are more than long enough to allow you to prop the playfield up like this. You'll have to first lift the playfield then slide it way out forward. You may have to stand on the side of the machine and actually lift both the front and back of the playfield to kind of scoot it into position. Its not too hard though. Then you will have direct access to the underside of the pops with nothing in the way. TAKE THE BALLS OUT FIRST!

Which transistor is that in the pic (with the hot glue around it)?

You could try lifting the playfield as described above (with balls taken out), turn the machine on and put it in diagnostic mode. Then you will be able to test the leaf switches on the pop bumper directly, measure voltage, etc.

Also test the TIP transistor that is associated with this pop. There is a small chance maybe if you shorted one of the leafs and the coil was stuck on too long it may have fried the driver transistor.

I'm not sure if this is a recommended solution but you could use very fine grit sandpaper and electrical contact cleaner and very gently cleaned the leaf contacts without bending them.

When all else fails always check continuity everywhere, even between the tip of the leaf and base of the solder lug, all the way up to the header pins on the CPU board.

Good luck!

#2280 16 days ago

Good call on propping the playfield like that. Much easier to get in there and work on the pop. I'm not sure how much it contributed to my issue but I actually used my Flex Stone already. At this point I think my best play is probably to just buy an entirely new switch stack and see where that gets me. If it still doesn't work, then it's board issues.

The pop coil is definitely still free and after adjusting the leafs (from previously working, I filed them lightly and made SURE to be ready to turn the machine off if the pop immediately fired on game start, but it didn't and hadn't fired since).

Still shuddering at that transistor... Yikes.

Oh, and I noticed this burned looking spot while nosing around. Not sure if that's a problem or not...

IMG_20191122_151642 (resized).jpgIMG_20191122_151652 (resized).jpgIMG_20191122_151610 (resized).jpg
#2281 16 days ago

ksuwildcatfan it’s easy to test the transistor. Take a wire, one end on ground braid, then touch the top of the transistor. The pop should fire. If it doesn’t, the transistor is bad. You can use this trick on any transistor in attract mode, even the voice clips.

#2282 16 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

ksuwildcatfan it’s easy to test the transistor. Take a wire, one end on ground braid, then touch the top of the transistor. The pop should fire. If it doesn’t, the transistor is bad. You can use this trick on any transistor in attract mode, even the voice clips.

Yup, I did that while testing my T target which wasn't working all of a sudden.

I'll do some more digging tomorrow. I need to research what that horribly "fixed" transistor handles, too. That is.. Bad.

#2283 10 days ago

Finally had a chance to investigate in the backbox just a little. That horribly "fixed" transistor is Q83. I'll give you one guess what that handles...

So, I guess I'll be learning how to repair this.

IMG_20191128_093644 (resized).jpgIMG_20191128_093809 (resized).jpg
#2284 9 days ago

We just joined the club this past Wednesday, picking up our Space Shuttle from a Pinsider in Atlanta. My daughter loves it, and it has been
her favorite "Pinball Arcade" game on her Kindle for years. Then we got it home and the "reality" of owning the real deal for her sets in.

She CANNOT see the playfield for the darn reflection of the head on the PF glass. (It's not like this on the kindle she says! LOL)
This is really annoying her. I'm looking into Non-Glare PF glass, but wanted to ask others here what they might have done to help minimize this effect. She's tried different heights by standing on stools, etc. Look forward to hearing your ideas! : )
Murph

#2285 9 days ago

She CANNOT see the playfield for the darn reflection of the head on the PF glass. A lot of folks have replaced the lights behind the shuttle with LEDs ,super bright. Try going old school with some incandecents (#44's) behind the shuttle. Good luck and welcome to the club

#2286 6 days ago

Here are some questions for any shuttle heads who have installed a hardtop on their machine. I know they look impressive right after the install how are they holding up after you've had them in there for a while? Was there anything during the install you would do different if you had it to do over again? I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on one and I've set aside some time in the spring for the install. Any tips or tricks, Do's or don'ts would be appreciated.

#2287 6 days ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Here are some questions for any shuttle heads who have installed a hardtop on their machine. I know they look impressive right after the install how are they holding up after you've had them in there for a while? Was there anything during the install you would do different if you had it to do over again? I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on one and I've set aside some time in the spring for the install. Any tips or tricks, Do's or don'ts would be appreciated.

I don't have one on my game, but I went to look at one to buy that had one installed. I didn't buy it mainly because of the hardtop. It was coming up under the ramp area creating a hump and the holes that were cut out to match the holes on the playfield did not match up well. This could be a result of a poor installation, but it also deterred me from buying a hardtop for my machine. It also looked a little cheap and plasticy to me. Others may have had a different experience.

#2288 6 days ago

Sounds like poor install. Mine looks great! Can’t tell it’s a hardtop. My machine was at a show and received a lot of plays over three days and there was zero noticeable wear.

#2289 6 days ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

I don't have one on my game, but I went to look at one to buy that had one installed. I didn't buy it mainly because of the hardtop. It was coming up under the ramp area creating a hump and the holes that were cut out to match the holes on the playfield did not match up well. This could be a result of a poor installation, but it also deterred me from buying a hardtop for my machine. It also looked a little cheap and plasticy to me. Others may have had a different experience.

Lol. Probably the one I bought. I'll have to take a closer look tonight.

#2290 6 days ago

I didn't buy it mainly because of the hardtop. It was coming up under the ramp area

not what I wanted to hear but probably what I needed to hear. I have concerns because I'm thinking of possibly adding one of Starship fantasy ramps and I know they're thicker and can be a pain to get flush with the playfield at the ramp entrance,wondering if the thickness of the hardtop is just going to add to the complications.

#2291 6 days ago

There's no adhesive under the main ramp because of the insert that's there (no adhesive under the clear holes for inserts). I'm not sure I see it as "coming up" -- I only see anything at all when I have the glass off and I'm sticking my head right next to it. I've not noticed any issues as far as gameplay is concerned.

I have just ONE complaint about the hardtop. It seems to attract dust like CRAZY. But I imagine some canned air would make quick work of it.

All in all I think the hardtop is great for games with gross playfields. It plays fast as hell so it's a completely different experience. But I certainly wouldn't sand down a nice playfield to install one (who would?!).

#2292 6 days ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

I didn't buy it mainly because of the hardtop. It was coming up under the ramp area
not what I wanted to hear but probably what I needed to hear. I have concerns because I'm thinking of possibly adding one of Starship fantasy ramps and I know they're thicker and can be a pain to get flush with the playfield at the ramp entrance,wondering if the thickness of the hardtop is just going to add to the complications.

The hardtop is like 1mm thick. It's not going to cause any issues from that front. Besides, since you're sanding off the top layer on the playfield to begin with.. It's even less of an issue.

Hardtops aren't for everyone, but I personally like mine. I need to finish my high speed so I'm ready to start eight ball deluxe sometime in January.. Ugh.

#2293 1 day ago

I'm going to hardtop my Space Shuttle. The playfield is absolutely roached and there are all sorts of things that need work underneath the playfield. I have the hardtop, new plastics, new backglass, new pop bumper parts, new flipper mechs and a new shuttle. I'm patiently waiting for Starship Fantasy to FINALLY, FINALLY, FINALLY start producing the ramp again! That's the missing piece and Larry has said that he will be doing them soon (whatever that means).

I have a Black Knight with a hardtop on it and I've been playing it for about a year. I don't see any issues and it plays very well. It's a great way to revive a game that won't get any love because of it's playfield but some people will complain that it doesn't play the same. They're entitled to their opinion.

#2294 1 day ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

I'm going to hardtop my Space Shuttle. The playfield is absolutely roached and there are all sorts of things that need work underneath the playfield. I have the hardtop, new plastics, new backglass, new pop bumper parts, new flipper mechs and a new shuttle. I'm patiently waiting for Starship Fantasy to FINALLY, FINALLY, FINALLY start producing the ramp again! That's the missing piece and Larry has said that he will be doing them soon (whatever that means).
I have a Black Knight with a hardtop on it and I've been playing it for about a year. I don't see any issues and it plays very well. It's a great way to revive a game that won't get any love because of it's playfield but some people will complain that it doesn't play the same. They're entitled to their opinion.

You'll love your hardtopped SS!

I'll love mine when I get my boards back...

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Wheeling, IL
From: $ 16.95
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Wheeling, IL
2,200 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Cape Canaveral, FL
$ 99.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Sales
$ 76.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 17.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
1,400
Machine - For Sale
Wentzville, MO
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 14.99
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
There are 2294 posts in this topic. You are on page 46 of 46.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside