I'm looking for wav files of the sounds of this great game. Anybody know where I can download them?

I'd say yes. I had to re-pin a connector in my Firepower a couple of years ago because the response from certain switches was wonky. See the connector on the right. Works like a charm...

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I feel dumb asking, but.. Reset switch? That's not this is it? This registers the drop it seems, and that does work--if the target is up when the game starts. Seems if the target is down when the game starts now it'll register the "T" target when I hit the first switch in the middle ramp (under the shuttle toy).

The coil isn't (audibly) doing anything during the solenoid test. It's just really weird that it suddenly crapped out after being moved downstairs. I transported it some 800 miles, through the elements, with no issues.. And the basement move was what did it? Frickin weird.

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Does anyone know an easy way to repin a connector when originally the wires are continuous through the IDC connector?

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Per request, here are pictures of the opto switch mods I made. To clear up any future confusion there is no diode on the original lower ramp switch mounted in the shuttle toy (it is somewhere up/downstream). I also added pics of the GI mods I made to the shuttle toy. I added two LED's in the toy shuttle to illuminate the rockets, which are directly tied to the strobing rocket lights in the back box GI. There are some pics of my playfield as well. I used some purple and pink LED's around the lower playfield and drop target GI for effect. In the back box I used warm white LED's for the "Space shuttle" text illumination and cool white LED's for the shuttle illumination. I can provide Arduino code if needed. FYI, all the wiring and connection is on a blank shield board which plugs directly into the UNO board. This way if the UNO microcontroller ever fails I can replace it in 2 minutes. Enjoy!

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Re-pinning is a pain in the butt. Before going that route check the continuity of the whole wire (Before and past the pin). Also check the continuity to the pin itself. If all of this checks out you may want to try reflowing solder to the header pins on the CPU board. I picked up my SS a month ago, a worn out fixer-upper. The biggest issue I had was the display kept flickering out. After hours of dicking around it ended up being bad solder connections on the CPU board header pins. I was actually warned about this by someone in the parking lot at the pinball show I bought the machine at haha. I never thought this would actually be the problem, but in the end, re-flowing solder to the header pins on the CPU board fixed my problem completely.

Lastly, I understand that what I am about to suggest may be considered blaspheme, but if you want to try an "easy" fix if the above doesn't work, I discovered that if you stick a small pin on the side of the connector you can push the contact back out so it presses more firmly against the header pin. This, along with some cheap contact cleaner from Home Depot may save you hours of wire crimping. Again, take said advice with a grain of salt. This is not the 'standard-of-care' medical treatment for a geriatric pinball machine, but it has worked for me in the past.

Nicemodz! Great-looking machine

Just had a "Pinshaker" shaker motor installed at the York pinball show by robgo777 .
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/introducing-the-pinshakers-universal-plug-amp-play-shaker-motor-kit
Gotta say what a huge difference it makes to game play. It's hooked up the the (Space) (Shuttle) flashers so will run when locking a ball or hitting the center ramp. I now have it running with the bell also. So it integrates with game play very well.
As far as the installation went. It's very simple. Since this was the first system 9 he did he didn't have the correct plug for the 110 line so just plugged it into the service outlet. two small jumper boards were installed at J12 and J19. Then a small controller board was added in the backbox. Finally Shaker motor itself was installed. One thing to note was with the system 9 bottom board of the cap is only 1/4". The T nuts that push up though to mount the shaker are about 5/8" Since we were installing at the show we just turned them upside down for temporary use. Permanent fix would be to mount a piece of 1/2" thick plywood between the motor and bottom board.

PS. Yeah I know I need to get a hard top for it.
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That's rad AF. Got a video?

Kind of hard to video a game shaking with shaker motor. But as I said. It really really goes well with this game. When you have multi ball set and hit the center ramp to start multiball or complete the SHUTTLE targets to sound the bell it's like the Space Shuttle is taking off. You won't be disappointed.
If you go to www.pinshakers.com they don't have system 9 on their list yet since this was their first install. You will have to contact them to get the kit. I know one other person that played the game at the show has requested one for his Space Shuttle. I'm sure the site will be updated soon.

Haha yeah I considered that right after posting. It's an interesting thought. Might be better to opt for World Cup Soccer first, then SS, in my case. Both could be neat.

Just wanted to point out. On the Pinshakers controller board I have pins 1,2 and 7 turned on for flashers and bell.

That sounds like it is working correctly. The lit pop(s) rotate as they are triggered.

KSUWildcatFan yeah, that’s the switch. I had to do some fine tuning on mine to get it to work, that’s why I brought it up. Sounds like something with the coil? I’ve had wires fall off of coils.. I’m sure you checked that, though.

Dumb question but what lights the red extra ball arrow that points up the right ramp? I know the right ramp target will randomly light the yellow extra ball light to get extra ball from the shuttle ramp, but what about the red arrow for the right ramp?

Maxing out your drop targets and or your USA multiplier

Isn't that switch just to register the drop and score it? If I manually lift the drop so it's UP on game start, it correctly registers it when I hit the target. It just doesn't bring it back up once the time runs out to hit the ramp. I'm kind of stumped tbh.

Thinking I'll just throw in a new coil with my next purchase and try swapping it in. I guess it at least still technically plays fine in this state, it's just not....'right' without the possibility of the ball firing straight back, down the center drain when I hit the target. This issue makes the game a lot easier imo.

I'm still fighting my right pop too, because the stupid thing likes not registering a hit on the top/top left part of the skirt. I keep adjusting it and it only seems to buy me a few games before returning to crap again. Annoying.

KSUWildcatFan the transistor for the T drop target is Q39. With the target down and in attract mode connect a jumper to the ground braid in the back box and touch the top of Q39. (The metal tab on top). That should fire the coil. If it doesn’t fire could be the transistor or coil. I believe you can also do the same at the coil by unsoldering the trigger wire. Yeah, getting pop bumpers set correctly is a PITA!

Thanks Chris I'll give that a shot. Someone else suggested I double check and make sure I didn't shift a plug a pin over or flip backwards when I plugged them all back in, which isn't something I had really considered. Do you by chance know which plug on the board handles this particular drop? If not, no worries, I can check them all tonight.

And yes, I hate adjusting pops! Seems no matter what I do with that stupid pop it always falls back to having poor alignment on the spoon which results in inconsistent hot detection on the upper part of the skirt. Blah!

It’s 1P11 wire 6. Grey green wire

Thanks a bunch Chris. Really appreciate it.

Looking for some advice on what to check next,shuttles not working.all playfield switches and solinoids stoped working.same issues a few weeks back,I tightened loose ground at coin box and that fixed everything,or so I thought.now same issue.all lamps work.when in test mode no solinoids fire.during switch test 34,33,32, 20 ,12,11,09 cycle through dissplay.flippers work during test.I am just not sure where to look next.any ideas would be welcome
Fuses good,continuity around coin box good.

Verified all the connections looked 'right' and then unplugged+plugged in again. Played around with the coil a bit and while it felt smooth it didn't seem to cleanly (fully) retract all the time, so I resleeved it. Noticed that, at least in one exact scenario (plunge and let it immediately drain), it at least fired the coil in some sense, but not enough to actually reset it. And it doesn't do anything with the coil when the ball shoots out.

I don't know, I'm stumped. And I'm a bit confused by IP11..My MPU only has J codes.. What am I not 'getting'? I also liked for a green/gray wire in position 6 and couldn't figure anything out. Am I just dumb?!

Sorry! I was looking at the manual. It could be J11. Did you try grounding Q39? If you haven’t, you should download the manual.

Manual:

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2260/Williams_1984_Space_Shuttle_Instruction_Manual_dated_Nov_3_1984_with_schematics.pdf

Have not tried that yet. I do have a manual, I just........ Have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to schematics and PCBs most of the time. I did see that Q39 reference in mine but I don't see anything VISIBLY wrong there. Q34 looks... bad. But no idea what that even is.

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Solenoid test is all quiet on test 5. But it's running some semblance of the reset circuitry when the ball drains, it seems.

Looks can be deceiving. So, you grounded Q39 and it did not fire the solenoid? Send a pic of the solenoid wiring.

Correct. Q39 to ground doesn't seem to fire the coil. I thought I heard something a few times but I'm not entirely sure. Either way, the target never popped up. Tested against Q60 (bell) and that worked every time.

Solder job isn't great on the red wires because I was having issues with my iron. I think I'll clip both wires and do it again, just to eliminate that from the list of possibilities.
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//Edit cleaned up the solder on both lugs, same result. AS the ball is draining the target pops up just a LITTLE but that's as much as I ever see out of it

I'm jumping off a damn cliff.

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Looks like you may have found it! I think this part of the reason the stopped using those plugs.

Yup, that was it. Broke the stupid pin trying to straighten it. Flipped it around and crammed it in there to test. Appears I screwed up my actual drop when I resleeved though so I get to go back and redo that.. And order new pins. :eyeroll:

Welp, I feel pretty stupid on this one. Guess it happens.

Had similar thing happen to me day before taking it to a show. Checked everything at least 3 times. Was so frustrated I was just going to sell the game. Then I checked the connectors. LOL.

Yeah, happens. I blew a system 7 board by plugging in the wrong connectors! A ~$400'mistake!

At least this one was a "free" mistake but come TF on. Too damn excited to plug it back in, I guess....

Ok, I gotta ask.
I'm looking for a project Space Shuttle and not having luck.
Until today. Sort of.
I have a line on a cabinet.
I'd need a complete board set, a populated playfield and a back glass...and a coin door.
The harnesses are there.
What are the chances that I could find what I need within a couple of months and at what prices?

Next to impossible... The system 9 cpu board is hard to find and expensive. You could run off a system 11 board with modified roms though. Still looking at $400 for that one board alone. And then you still have to find a playfield. My honest opinion would be not to get it unless you’re willing to wait years to find all the parts. And you’re gonna have more into it then just buying a working game.

+1. Unless it's like $100 or something I guess.

My inclination was to avoid it, but wanted to confirm.

I'm aware that the system 9 boards are tough to replace (only three titles used system 9) and that previous replacement board sets have been discontinued due to bugginess.
I suspected that the glass would be easy-ish but that the playfield and coin door would be tough.

The coin door would be the easiest thing to find as it's not game-specific, so you can get one from almost anywhere. Even so, they're not "common". So let that define the odds here.

There was probably a good chance of scoring a blown-out SS years ago when CPR did the repros. They still turn up now and then, but the availability of Hardtops has made them hotter commodities. But even in that case, you'd still need to get the mechs.

Honestly, a donor cab can be useful for other projects and homebrew stuff, but as the starting foundation to piece a matching game together, it's almost counterintuitive. It takes up tons of space for being literally useless meanwhile. All the other required parts are smaller. I'd try to find those first and THEN get the cab last. You could always repaint any other cab if need be (and most donor cabs usually need some kind of rework anyway).

But if you're in for the long haul, the price is right, and you have the space... well better to have and not need than the other way, as they say. Maybe you'll find a ratted out SS in need of a better cab; would be nice to have that around. You never know!

Isn't the way it works like this?
Buy ratty cabinet for too much money.
Holy grail pin shows up.
Second example of holy grail pin shows up for less money and in better shape.
Fall off a ladder and have huge medical bill.
Can't buy either grail pin.
Ratty cabinet falls apart.

I was just trying to get a shot at a decent pin!

I have a populated PF I was going to install a hard top on but I do not have a machine so I decided to not do it. PM me if you would be interested. Shipping would be an issue.

There has been one with a beat playfield sitting for months in MI on Facebook for 1K. I'd assume you could get it for less at this point and just hardtop it.

I have one in great shape that needs almost nothing if you don't mind coming north of the border

Pulled her from storage. Owner is pretty sure she was out there 30 years ago. He pulled it off route and that was it. MPU likely shot, have a spare ready. Cabinet will need over haul and a back glass. Have the old one but it’s nearly clear. Playfield is in great shape considering. Has all manuals and field repair notes.

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Pulled her from being in storage 30 years. Owner says he pulled her off route around 1990 and she has set in the dark ever since. Batteries had no dates and MPU likely ruined. Have a spare working board thankfully. BG is all but clear so that needs replaced also. PF is in remarkable shape. Cabinet will get a complete refresh. Comes with all manuals and field repair notes.

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Still trying to breathe life into my shuttle machine, I think I'm closer here's my question, none of the solenoids fire during the solenoid test, I have continuity in all the lines to all of the solenoids, I did find one diode on a solenoid that is bad, would one bad diode keep all of the solenoids from firing?

No. Sound more like you have no power to the solenoids. Have you checked for voltage?

Thanks for steering me in what I believe is the right direction. I just checked the voltage at the large capacitor that drives the solenoids, reading 14 volts if I understand the schematics correctly should be 28. Makes sense, it's old ,looks really swollen and Bloated with some green Funk coming out of one end (whoops ...I just described my ex-wife). :DAnyway, Parts on order,if I don't destroy the board reinstalling I think I'll be in good shape. Thanks again for the tip

My hot dog flashers stopped working for me. I installed 89 flasher bulbs in there (I thought only system 11 games needed the mod). I replaced the two white block resistors(?) but still no dice. Is there someplace on the MPU I need to look to see if something burned up? Only those two hot dog flashers don't work. Thanks in advance!