Can you add a link to where you bought these parts and perhaps a part number?

thanks,

I picked up the flaps at Marco here is the link:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-9444-00

As you can see in first picture the ramp is missing the plastic used to fix it in place.

First I put the existing hardware under the flap to help fill in some of the space.

Then fitted the flap from Marco on top of the hardware under flap.

Using the Ramp Fasteners I fastened the ramp flaps into place loosely. Marking
the area underneath where I could put a small dab of adhesive. underneath to keep
flap flush with ramp. This was only necessary on the shuttle ramp. The other flap was
pretty flush with ramp. Don't use epoxy or anything you can't remove if you make a mistake.

Alternatively you can drill holes and fasten it using rivets. I avoided this as the ramp is brittle and
I worried it wouldn't survive a couple taps.

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Just met a few more of the STS-88 crew; already had Bob Cabana but now have added Jerry Ross (dude's amazing, flew SEVEN shuttle missions), Dr. Nancy Currie(-Gregg), and Dr. Jim Newman to my collection!

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I lost track and had to recount -- this brings my total up to 28 astronauts.

You've got a way cool job......and they pay you too.

I just ordered them. Thanks for the help and the pictures. These are much better than the fix I tried.

Every once in a while my space shuttle machine will make the man screaming sound when I hit the ball up the ramp to the right of the shuttle that goes nowhere.

Normally I get a computer sound but maybe 1 in 10 gives the outline scream sound. Normal?

It's supposed to do that if you hit the target (and thereby change the shuttle award) when extra ball or special are lit for the award.

I love that sound! That is exactly how I feel when I drain a ball with extra ball lit.

I always imagine a spacewalking astronaut coming untethered and screaming as he grabs for his cable... and misses.

This. Same for when you drain down an outlane when extra ball or special are lit. In all of these situations, you're missing out on the extra ball or the special -- "aaaaaggghh!!!"

Scream is normal

I have bought from Starship Fantasy several times and like their product, but he’s been saying ‘a few weeks’ or ‘a few months’ about SS ramps for YEARS now.

Does anyone have any suggestions to eliminate speaker buzz noise?? I have pinball pro speaker and sub, but there is always a buzz in the speakers with the volume turned up that follows in intensity when the playfield lights are on etc during attract mode. Don’t notice it during play probably due to all the other sounds. So with all four of my pins on in attract mode, you can always hear space shuttle. Do I need to add another ground or something to the power supply in the cabinet? I just tried to touching a ground wire from the backboxspeaker to the back box etc and and it didn’t change the buzz.

Any help will be appreciated

Jason

Have you checked the CPU board and make sure all the screws are in place? Seems minor, but I've had a few games that have had missing screws and this helped with the buzz.

Also make sure the machine is actually grounded. Someone had actually replaced my cord with a two prong.

Wow! You are spot on! Just checked my plug wire, never noticed it before, but the ground wire part for the 3 plug is missing. Just has the two flat prongs. Guess I’ll have to see about ordering a new cord. I’m guessing it’s just a simple R&R of a wire from the power supply in the cabinet??? Hopefully this fixes it. All other screws seem to be intact in the back box motherboards.

Jason

Has your plug been replaced, is it an original cord? You may only need a grounded plug.

Seems to be a three prong plug but with only the two flat prongs remaining. The lower one is MIA. Ordered a new cord from Marco. Wonder why the cord was altered. Maybe an old house of former owner??? Will let you guys know if this fixes the buzz. Hopefully this hasn’t hurt my pins motherboards. This is still my favorite pinball of all time and #1 in my collection.

Oh man why did you buy a whole new cord? All you had to do was go to the hardware store and buy a $3 repair plug.

unscrew the sound board (leave everything plugged) let it float by itself, turn the game on, see if it's gone.

What Paul said.

I would save your cord and just run down to the hardware store and get a three prong end and rewire just at the end of the cord. 1. You can save that cord your ordered for another machine. 2. Resoldering the cord on the inside of the cabinet is a pain in the ass, at least it was for me, but I'm a giant.

I’ll check Lowe’s today and see about getting a 3 prong end. My cord already shipped, but as you guys stated, I can always put in into another pin. And there will always be another pin , lol.

So, I verified all screws are installed in boards in the backbox. Changed out the power cord plug end to a proper 3 prong connector. Still no change. If I turn down the volume so I can’t hear a buzzing in the speakers, you mainly just hear all the popbumpers etc. I do have to turn the knob up almost all the way to get good sound, is this normal? Is there something I may need to replace on one of the boards? Or just buy a new board if available? Or that huge capacitor in the back box? Not sure. The current speakers are Pinball Pro that sound great, it’s just that the game during idle/attract mode has a buzz sound. Maybe it’s just normal noise due to the transformer in the cabinet being it’s a 1984 pin?!? Don’t remember much noise from my old EM pins when I had them.

"upgrade" speakers in anything older than WPC games, and even then mostly, are a waste of money. It garbage sound to begin with, you'll just have expensive speakers making garbage sound. You shouldn't need the stock speakers high to hear the sounds. If you need it up with the new speakers is seems like an impendence mismatch.

I would replace the main capacitor and any capacitors related to the sound. Actually, I'd probably recap the whole machine just for good measure. But that's the kinda guy I am.

To some degree a bit of "matrix hum" in games from this era is normal. Even one that's essentially "silent", if you stand next to it and listen you'll be able to pick it up, noticing as the lights change. Kind of like how you can "hear" a CRT from the next room.

Of course not all "hums" are the same. You could have blend of matrix hum and other interference, or just one and not the other.

When I first redid my own Space Shuttle, the hum was pretty bad - and I had already rebuilt the power supply. Eventually I tidied up the lamps a bit, tightened all of the interboard wiring and connectors, replaced missing board screws, etc. Somewhere along the way, the hum dissipated greatly and is pretty much not there at all for practical purposes.

One quirk on games of this era is the sound/speech mixing pot (looks like a volume knob) on the sound board. By now it might have a bit of oxidation that is polluting the signal; turn it back and forth a few times to clean it and set it back to where it was originally. Might not help your particular situation, but it shouldn't hurt to try. I'd also double check ALL your board connections and screws. There was still a lot that wasn't fully understood when these games and boards were designed, so it sometimes doesn't take much to cause minor problems.

You could also try removing a bunch of bulbs to see if that changes the hum. If it does, your power supply is likely weak and recapping that would be a huge help.

It could possibly be the sound board itself, too: when I was rebuilding the board for my Firepower (which is similar) I was doing all kinds of troubleshooting / experimental poking and probing, and was amused to discover that touching the amp chips would cause the hum to change. Now I'm only mentioning this as something "within the realm of possibility"... but I would save it for the last desperate thing to investigate as it gets much more advanced with more possibilities for disaster, than the other suggestions.

Guess next up is changing that beer can size capacitor. What is that for anyway? Didn’t see it in the manual.

Power board was replaced by previous owner to a rottendog board. Seems fine.

Not sure if I need to replace the flipper board, it is OEM I think and at least the flippers play great as the whole game does.

The buzz is noticed mainly when the main volume is just about max. I tried moving both the volume knob on the sound board and cabinet several times fast to “clean it” without disassembly. But maybe corrosion in the volume control gives a slight feedback?!?
Buzz follows the lights intensity on the game.

How can I find the part number for the cabinet volume knob? Didn’t see it in the manual either.

if it’s a weak amp for the sound making me turn up the volume to get a great experience , to me anyway, can that be replaced? Or would I have to send off the main cpu board off for repair?? Any recommendations for that work?

Seems like such a little annoyance but I really love this game and want it to last a long time. The game plays perfect, just wish it didn’t have that slight buzz through the speaker during attract mode.

jetmechinnc use this to replace big capacitor:
https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/boards/boards-index.htm#bridgeboard

MountBrew Hardtop!!

If you kill the PF and hardtop it someone should slap you upside the head with a truck.

I'd would restore what you have there. That's in a lot better shape than most. I think there is a decal you can buy for the area at the top above bumpers. I think you'd be surprised what just repainting the white areas would look like. Sacrificing this playfield for an overlay would be a shame....IMO.

Geez, if that's what people are considering "beyond hope" these days then holy crap, I should be a god, and others immortal above be ;P

A few years back that pf would have been considered a true rare gem find in that condition. It SHOULD still be. The only truly worn part is the "USA ADVANCES X VALUE", which was always the first part to go. The bonus matrix insert rings are worn, but even then only just the black circles. A little unusual wear above the right outlane. And some typical incidental specks. But all are easily fixable; I dealt with worse than that on my first pin (a Space Shuttle) a few years back, and have tackled way worse since. And I'm not even that good probably.

I'm sure you could sell that to someone more interested in an original PF. That said, though, finding another hardtop candidate might take some work, and could be its own hassle. And clearing is a pain, so the hardtop takes care of that too...

Restore it or...wax it, play it and enjoy it. Forget the hardtop.

If you have the money to pay a restorer to touch up and clear coat, or have the skills or want to learn, go for it. I would want some sort of wear protection on it when done. I’m almost done with my space shuttle hardtop install. It’s quite a bit of work and I’ve been slowly working on it since September. My playfield was toast, though.

Dang, didn't even know about that, just got that huge capacitor in yesterday. Maybe I'll pick this up anyway to prevent potential fires or just install the two fuses as I've seen done before. Always good to have spare items laying around for the next pin.

Anyone have any tricks to get the “bells” off? I used a Dremel and a cutoff disk on the first one.

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I think I used a Dremel with a cone shaped grinding bit. Put the tip into the opening as if you are drilling it out. You can grind away enough and the bell should fall out.

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You could also use a sharp drill bit that is slightly larger than the opening for the bell. It would take off the rounded over piece.

Hardtop install done! I’m very pleased. I am chasing one gremlin. Sometimes when locking a ball, it lights the lock but doesn’t put another ball in the shooter lane. Sometimes it ends the ball and sometimes it puts a ball in the shooter lane after a long delay. If anyone has any ideas, let me know. A big thanks to GRUMPY for all the trouble shooting help.

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I am also reproducing these ramps.

I don't have any machinery or expertise so production is still a little ways out yet but I'll totally let you know.

came out nice.

nice cards on the apron!

PSA. Below is new plastic and an old plastic. The new is lighter. I like it, but if you aren’t doing a full set replacement, it may look weird.

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Hey that’s great news! I just read that starship-fantasy doesn’t seem inclined to make Space Shuttle ramps, he just posted “it’ll be the last one I make” - I take that to mean it’s the lowest priority on his list..

Keep an eye on this thread, he says he will be making them at some point... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps

Hey guys, Joe Kace has a new fully populated pf in a crate. $2800 OBO. Wow never heard of this coming up for sale EVER.

Old plastics if anyone needs some.

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Nice job! Love seeing this game live on beyond its years. It is the one game that willl never leave my collection.

Where'd you get your new shuttle from? I can only find one place that is selling them...

And I was just checking CPR's site and they have new mirrored backglasses in stock!

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/shuttleglass/