(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!


By E_N_3

6 years ago



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There are 2358 posts in this topic. You are on page 38 of 48.
#1851 1 year ago

Hey fellow SS Crew Members! I just picked up a Space Shuttle as my first pin about a week ago and had been enjoying it until today. Both flippers are stuck in the upright position, and when I press either flipper button, I hear the usual electro buzz; however, nothing happens. I checked the flipper PS fuse, and it appears fine. The old IT Crowd fix (off and on again) does nothing as well, and you can still start a game - just can’t use the fanged flippers! Any ideas?

#1852 1 year ago
Quoted from Matrices13:

Hey fellow SS Crew Members! I just picked up a Space Shuttle as my first pin about a week ago and had been enjoying it until today. Both flippers are stuck in the upright position, and when I press either flipper button, I hear the usual electro buzz; however, nothing happens. I checked the flipper PS fuse, and it appears fine. The old IT Crowd fix (off and on again) does nothing as well, and you can still start a game - just can’t use the fanged flippers! Any ideas?

Are they stuck like that before you press the flipper buttons? When you power the game off do they come down? If so it is something electrical. If not it's likely mechanical. If you can describe what happens in a bit more detail we can get you sorted out.

#1853 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Thanks amboggs I forgot my third question! What is the best way to prop up the playfield to work underneath? A picture would be super awesome. I have a trough switch issue and I can't solder with one hand!

Be super careful not to break the top left plastic above the ramp when raising past 90 degrees. I started reading this thread from the beginning since I just joined the club last weekend and someone broke theirs around page 5. I immediately had to look at mine since I heard a strange noise lifting mine yesterday. If you lean the playfield back against the backglass it may be resting on the plastic.

#1854 1 year ago

Hey fellow owners, I’m in the middle of restoring my original playfield and lost all my topside tear down pics. Luckily this game isn’t too difficult to put together, but if anyone has pics of a major shop job or restore pics for the topside of the playfield I could sure use them thanks Pat

#1855 1 year ago

Can someone link me the correct flipper rebuilt kit for Space Shuttle? I'm seeing multiple options and just want to purchase the right one!

#1856 1 year ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Can someone link me the correct flipper rebuilt kit for Space Shuttle? I'm seeing multiple options and just want to purchase the right one!

Here's the one I used, no issues with it: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=975

#1857 1 year ago
Quoted from grantopia:

issues with it

Unless you like slower flippers, and flippers that take longer to reach their resting position to make slap saves more challenging...

Be sure and buy a 10-pack of WPC-era return springs, and ditch the conical springs. You can attach the spring to your PF with a shorter hex screw. Also, you'll need that little piece to attach them to. Get 10 of those too.

read more about it in the vid1900 flipper rebuild thread.

-mof

#1858 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

Unless you like slower flippers, and flippers that take longer to reach their resting position to make slap saves more challenging...
Be sure and buy a 10-pack of WPC-era return springs, and ditch the conical springs. You can attach the spring to your PF with a shorter hex screw. Also, you'll need that little piece to attach them to. Get 10 of those too.
read more about it in the vid1900 flipper rebuild thread.
-mof

Thanks, Mof! If it's not too much of a hassle, can you link me to the page where Vid describes these return springs and how to install? Thanks!

#1859 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

Unless you like slower flippers, and flippers that take longer to reach their resting position to make slap saves more challenging...
Be sure and buy a 10-pack of WPC-era return springs, and ditch the conical springs. You can attach the spring to your PF with a shorter hex screw. Also, you'll need that little piece to attach them to. Get 10 of those too.
read more about it in the vid1900 flipper rebuild thread.
-mof

I can honestly say I've never noticed a difference. Mine seems to play fine so I've never felt the need to do that. YMMV I guess.

#1861 1 year ago

Hey All,

Recently joined the club! I'm working through some issues. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-coil-sound-and-scoring-issues#post-4572914

#1862 1 year ago

Newbie question. What's the coil attached to the coin door for?

#1863 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Newbie question. What's the coil attached to the coin door for?

In the wild, people used to drop money into a turned off game for some reason.

That coil dropped the coin back into the return.

-

You can cut one lead and tape it off.

No one is dropping money into your home game.

....and an unpowered coil is quiet, won't burn up, and does not consume any electricity.

#1864 1 year ago

Could use some help as this era of game is a little out of my norm. When I coin up and press start, the drop targets reset and the game sounds, for a brief second, like it is going to start. Unfortunately, no ball is shot out of the shooter, the solenoids are not live, and the displays continue to cycle through the idle sequence. What should I be looking for?

#1865 1 year ago

Do you have all 3 balls in? Are the switches registering they are there?

#1866 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

In the wild, people used to drop money into a turned off game for some reason.
That coil dropped the coin back into the return.
-
You can cut one lead and tape it off.
No one is dropping money into your home game.
....and an unpowered coil is quiet, won't burn up, and does not consume any electricity.

disconnect it, zip tie it into the active position, then you can coin up at home and still not have the extra coil going.

#1867 1 year ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

Do you have all 3 balls in? Are the switches registering they are there?

I'd have to double check, but I don't think the coils will even fire up without all 3 balls when you hit start. Definitely check the switches though first.

#1868 1 year ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

Do you have all 3 balls in? Are the switches registering they are there?

I am an idiot. Thank you!

#1869 1 year ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

I am an idiot. Thank you!

I think he found the problem.

#1870 1 year ago

I fixed one problem and created another and could use some help. I had the game working fine, and decided to do a flipper rebuild. On the right flipper, things were going great until I was nearly finished and realized I had a loose wire that must have fell off of something. Does anyone know where this one goes or could snap some pictures of their own game? The same color wire feeds to the end of stroke switch, and I see the same color wire feeding to the trough switches, which makes sense because those switches are not recognizing balls in the trough to start a game. Ugh

63EBDE21-C78E-4864-87A2-428A2EC4DE94 (resized).jpegC97787BF-D0E2-4CE4-A881-FF4C1C3B224D (resized).jpeg

#1871 1 year ago

I can't tell on my phone, but isn't that the other wire that attaches to the lane change diode on the flipper switch stack?

You can find all the Space Shuttle shopout photos here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/space-shuttle/gallery

#1872 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I can't tell on my phone, but isn't that the other wire that attaches to the lane change diode on the flipper switch stack?
You can find all the Space Shuttle shopout photos here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/space-shuttle/gallery

You were right (as always), Vid. Thanks!

1 week later
#1873 1 year ago

I just got done doing a playfield restore and I added the engines off the back of the shuttle toy and lit them up by connecting to one of the flickering bulbs in the back box. When I put an led in it works like a charm but also dimly lights about 5 inserts on the playfield. I wired it up just like the picture here in the club. Am I missing something or wired something wrong?

#1874 1 year ago

Looks like the wiring is fine. For some reason it’s my choice of led. Not all of the ones I tried had the problem. The only issue I’m fighting now is the flipper strength. I rebuilt both and the left feels stronger and sounds snappier than the right. Both though don’t scream up the ramp like I’d hoped. If the EOS is good and a filed the cab switches, is there anything else I should look into?

#1875 1 year ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

Looks like the wiring is fine. For some reason it’s my choice of led. Not all of the ones I tried had the problem. The only issue I’m fighting now is the flipper strength. I rebuilt both and the left feels stronger and sounds snappier than the right. Both though don’t scream up the ramp like I’d hoped. If the EOS is good and a filed the cab switches, is there anything else I should look into?

Make sure the EOS is gapped good and opening just a bit at the very end of the stroke. You change the coil sleeves out?

#1876 1 year ago

Double post

#1877 1 year ago

Rebuilt everything

#1878 1 year ago

I did more EOS adjusting and went to work on the cab flipper switches. I filed the pitting out of them and the flippers are about the same strength. I wish for a bit more power, but the ramp can be made by both

#1879 1 year ago

Still working trying to figure out why the right flipper is still not to full power. I changed over to a parallel coil setup, while it was better the first couple games it still doesn’t have the power the left does. I’m leaning towards looking at the cab switch. The EOS seems fine to me.

#1880 1 year ago
Quoted from grantopia:

Are they stuck like that before you press the flipper buttons? When you power the game off do they come down? If so it is something electrical. If not it's likely mechanical. If you can describe what happens in a bit more detail we can get you sorted out.

They're stuck, period. Power off and on, they stay up. I'd ordered new coils and flipper rebuild kit from Marcos and have received them; after watching some videos and reading up a bit more, I'm getting a few new parts (flipper bushings, etc.) to go along with them. I do notice there appears to be a pretty regular sparking issue when the flipper buttons are pressed (at the buttons themselves, and more with the right flipper button than the left), so I'm not sure if that tied into the initial problem as well. I wasn't playing it when both flippers failed, but they did indeed fail at the same time.

Either way, I think the coils likely overheated and the sleeves melted a bit, enough to cause the flippers to stick in the upright position. That, or somebody fed 'em an overdose of Viagra. Anyhow, since the right flipper lane change function was originally intermittent and now isn't working at all, I'm also ordering a few SW-10A-48 (flipper cabinet normally open) switches to go along with the other parts. Hopefully, I'll figure it out - but if anyone else has any suggestions, I'd appreciate it!

Couple of additional questions - the power supply had been upgraded to a Rottendog WDP3211A. I'd purchased one of Inkochnito's Rectifier/Bridge boards to eliminate future problems, but is it still necessary with the Rottendog? Also, anyone know where I can get a new 03-7773-4 drop target for the 'T'? Preferably one with the wedge top!

#1881 1 year ago

matrices13 are you sure the flipper isn't hitting something on the top side? I had a similar issue on my space station. After alot of head rubbing, figured out the metal outlane guide was mounted in a way that obstructed the flipper.

#1882 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

matrices13 are you sure the flipper isn't hitting something on the top side? I had a similar issue on my space station. After alot of head rubbing, figured out the metal outlane guide was mounted in a way that obstructed the flipper.

Yeah, they’re stuck on the underside of the play field, and both are stuck. They also both went at the same time and there was a burning odor, from what I was told. The machine still fires up, but they won’t come down again - and nothing up top is obstructing them, unfortunately.

#1883 1 year ago
Quoted from Matrices13:

Yeah, they’re stuck on the underside of the play field, and both are stuck. They also both went at the same time and there was a burning odor, from what I was told. The machine still fires up, but they won’t come down again - and nothing up top is obstructing them, unfortunately.

Both coils may have melted enough to seize the flipper plungers, but that seems to point to a problem upstream. You need to make sure you haven't blown transistors (or worse) before you hook those new coils back up and put the power back on.

Also the bridge board fixes a different issue. So you should still add the new bridge board.

#1884 1 year ago
Quoted from Matrices13:

They're stuck, period. Power off and on, they stay up. I'd ordered new coils and flipper rebuild kit from Marcos and have received them; after watching some videos and reading up a bit more, I'm getting a few new parts (flipper bushings, etc.) to go along with them. I do notice there appears to be a pretty regular sparking issue when the flipper buttons are pressed (at the buttons themselves, and more with the right flipper button than the left), so I'm not sure if that tied into the initial problem as well. I wasn't playing it when both flippers failed, but they did indeed fail at the same time.
Either way, I think the coils likely overheated and the sleeves melted a bit, enough to cause the flippers to stick in the upright position. That, or somebody fed 'em an overdose of Viagra. Anyhow, since the right flipper lane change function was originally intermittent and now isn't working at all, I'm also ordering a few SW-10A-48 (flipper cabinet normally open) switches to go along with the other parts. Hopefully, I'll figure it out - but if anyone else has any suggestions, I'd appreciate it!
Couple of additional questions - the power supply had been upgraded to a Rottendog WDP3211A. I'd purchased one of Inkochnito's Rectifier/Bridge boards to eliminate future problems, but is it still necessary with the Rottendog? Also, anyone know where I can get a new 03-7773-4 drop target for the 'T'? Preferably one with the wedge top!

Have you checked them out visually to see if anything is melted or the coils are damaged? If you're going to rebuild them anyway you could take them apart and see. If you take off the glass and apply some pressure to the flippers can you manually push them back or move them at all?

Quoted from Brijam:

Both coils may have melted enough to seize the flipper plungers, but that seems to point to a problem upstream. You need to make sure you haven't blown transistors (or worse) before you hook those new coils back up and put the power back on.
Also the bridge board fixes a different issue. So you should still add the new bridge board.

I'd check this also for sure if you see or suspect any fried coils. If you don't nip the board problem (if there is one) you'll be right back where you started.

#1885 1 year ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

Still working trying to figure out why the right flipper is still not to full power. I changed over to a parallel coil setup, while it was better the first couple games it still doesn’t have the power the left does. I’m leaning towards looking at the cab switch. The EOS seems fine to me.

How is the voltage compared to the other coil? I would keep shrinking the EOS gap and testing the flipper until its open just a hair. I've found I really have to tweak them after a rebuild to feel good.

1 week later
#1886 1 year ago

Currently I'm in the design process for a new 3D printed MOD for my space shuttle. This Hubble Telescope is supposed to be placed in the top-left corner of the game.
It will be illuminated from the inside, so that the solar-panels and the the front lens will light up.

What do you think?

2018-10-05 08_19_13-3D design Astronaut Tinkercad (resized).png2018-10-05 08_24_20-3D design Astronaut Tinkercad (resized).png
#1887 1 year ago
Quoted from OlliG:

Currently I'm in the design process for a new 3D printed MOD for my space shuttle. This Hubble Telescope is supposed to be placed in the top-left corner of the game.
It will be illuminated from the inside, so that the solar-panels and the the front lens will light up.
What do you think?
[quoted image][quoted image]

why? and its not something that lights up, glowing solar panels??

#1888 1 year ago

Why? because he wants to and can. Shoot it's not proportion correctly either if you want to nit pick, but neither is the Shuttle on the game. The whole thing should actually glow from sun reflection, perhaps not the panels though. I don't think I would do it but I am curious to see how this turns out.

#1890 1 year ago
Quoted from slgerber:

Why? because he wants to and can. Shoot it's not proportion correctly either if you want to nit pick, but neither is the Shuttle on the game. The whole thing should actually glow from sun reflection, perhaps not the panels though. I don't think I would do it but I am curious to see how this turns out.

he asked for thoughts. I gave mine.
Solar panels shouldn't reflect, that would defeat the purpose.

#1891 1 year ago
Quoted from OlliG:

Currently I'm in the design process for a new 3D printed MOD for my space shuttle. This Hubble Telescope is supposed to be placed in the top-left corner of the game.
It will be illuminated from the inside, so that the solar-panels and the the front lens will light up.
What do you think?
[quoted image][quoted image]

oooh, deja vue.

satellite (resized).JPGsatellite mounted2 (resized).JPG
#1892 1 year ago

Interesting, does look nice (solar panels should be black )I may have to try it, at least print it. If anyone is interested NasaModels has an STL file on thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1606209

#1893 1 year ago

Also....Bunches of 3D models here.....ISS maybe????
https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov/search/3d%20model

#1894 1 year ago

I just upgraded my flipper fingers to WPC Style finger-mechanics including the spring that's pulling back the finger.
See Vid's guide : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers)

I found out that the switch holder in my space shuttle had no long bracket, where I could drill the little hole to attach the spring.

So I made 2 little 3D printed pieces supposed to be mounted to the bracket along with the EOS Switch...
The thinner one is for the right flipper with the extra lane-change switch...
You can find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3140312
2018-10-06 18_46_52-3D design Pinball Switch Holders Tinkercad (resized).pngIMG_20181006_183045365_20181006183839170 (resized).jpg

#1895 1 year ago

And another 3D printable piece ... this time a key-ring-thingi....

The little donut must be glued to the logo-piece. You can print it in a different color if you want!

Here you go : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3140331

2018-10-06 18_56_10-3D design Space Shuttle Logo Tinkercad (resized).pngIMG_20181006_185340080 (resized).jpg
#1896 1 year ago

Well, I finally got around to restoring a Space Shuttle that I purchased roughly a year ago and had sitting stored in my basement. It is always great to see these games being salvaged. I paid $800 for it, and it mostly worked. Good cabinet. Perfect back glass. Crusty playfield. Here are a couple of the very typical "before" pictures:

Photo Aug 17, 11 43 45 AM (resized).jpgPhoto Aug 17, 11 43 57 AM (resized).jpg
#1897 1 year ago

Right when I got this game, I found a guy on Ebay selling a NIB CPR Reproduction playfield. I paid a whopping $900 for that playfield plus shipping. So all together the game and the playefield, plus a new plastic set cost me about $2000. This is my 3rd playfield swap experience and it was surprisingly tougher than my Centaur or Medusa for the simple reason that this early version CPR Playfield was terribly inaccurate on where the dents and holes were placed for all the assemblies. So I had to spend a tremendous amount of time drilling and just figuring out where everything should be. For certain, swapping original restored playfields goes a lot smoother than the reproduction ones.

Photo Oct 07, 7 04 04 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Oct 07, 7 04 16 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Oct 07, 7 04 23 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Oct 07, 7 04 31 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Oct 07, 7 04 34 PM (resized).jpg
#1898 1 year ago

What a difference a new playfield and new set of plastics makes.

Photo Oct 07, 7 04 38 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Oct 07, 7 04 57 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Oct 07, 7 05 15 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Oct 07, 7 06 17 PM (resized).jpg
#1899 1 year ago

Back glass, as mentioned, was perfect and all segmented number displays work. I did have someone go over all the boards but they were already updated and in great shape. Inside of the cabinet was already pretty clean, just a little dusty. Bonus - the original cash box! I have a weird fondness for having the correct cash boxes in my games. Don't know why.

Photo Oct 07, 7 01 22 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Oct 07, 7 03 42 PM (resized).jpg
#1900 1 year ago

The biggest selling point for me on getting this particular Space Shuttle was the cabinet and coin door condition. Very little damage. Just polished the door and cleaned the mechs a bit. Had to add a NASA sticker though. It just looks appropriate. I touched up minor scuffs on the cabinet and then sealed the wood with Minwax polycrylic satin finish. On the blue touch up paint I got extremely lucky and pretty much was able to nail the perfect color and finish. That's rare for me. If anyone wants the Home Depot paint code I used, let me know. It looks wrong when the paint is wet but when dry, the touch up becomes invisible.

Photo Oct 07, 7 01 43 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Oct 07, 7 02 08 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Oct 07, 7 02 34 PM (resized).jpg
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