Got it. Thanks Doug!

What is canon: NASA Blue or White? Or flame red or Williams yellow? Too many choices.

While he's restoring my Space Shuttle, my friend made a pretty cool mod that adds exhaust animation to the shuttle toy.

Here it is in action:

The exhaust itself is 3 red star posts that he cut. Then he added an LED, and tied it to one of the 3 flickering exhaust lights in the backbox (next to the four flashers).

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cool, i made that a few years ago in my restoration.

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Any idea what the standup switches are supposed to do?
For scoring at all times or under certain conditions?

42 Bottom Left Standup Switch B-4834-K
43 Left Lower Standup Switch B-4834-K
44 Left Upper Standup Switch B-4834-K
46 Center Standup Switch A-4834-J
41 Upper Right Standup Switch A-4834-J
48 Lower Right Standup Switch B-4834-K

SW-1A-120

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Comet has the flickering leds so I wonder how they would work.

Is you are going to try them Paul, please let us know. As this is an awesome mod

Has anyone back lit their new stainless NASA speaker panel yet? Is so, can you let us know what you used or did to mount the strip or bulbs.....Paul! (I’m sure your’s is lit up)

i did and i think i'm the only one. i made a new speaker panel led strip around the speakers and nasa.

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That looks awesome beatmaster

thank you, you can follow the restoration and how i did the speaker panel here.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-restoration-it-has-begun

Ok. I just read Beatmaster's restoration page and realize how much of an artist, electrical engineer, and mechanical engineer you need to be to fully restore a machine...!

But in the interim, some really basic questions (new pinball machine owner: ~1 month now):
* Are there any other useful manuals beside the i) Space Shuttle Mannual, ii) Williams Blue Parts, and ii) Pinball Troubleshooting and Ref {Hawes}
* What do the standup switches do...they do nothing (lights, score, sound, etc...) I can see on my machine.
* What does the micro switch (A-10594) in the shuttle do (lights, score, sound?). Only the long ramp upper switch (B-8410) is needed to trigger multiball.

ps
I have made, on my old broken space shuttle plastic, a mock up of opening bay doors and an extending [Canada] arm. I'll post that after I figure out some of the more basic stuff...

* Are there any other useful manuals beside the i) Space Shuttle Mannual, ii) Williams Blue Parts, and ii) Pinball Troubleshooting and Ref {Hawes}

I have not needed anything except the Space Shuttle manual for printed material. The pinwiki for system 9-11 is invaluable. http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11

* What do the standup switches do...they do nothing (lights, score, sound, etc...) I can see on my machine.

They should make a sound and score 10 points. Watch a youtube video for an example of the sound.

* What does the micro switch (A-10594) in the shuttle do (lights, score, sound?). Only the long ramp upper switch (B-8410) is needed to trigger multiball.

The switch under the shuttle lets the game know that a ball made it at least partway up the ramp. If you trigger the shuttle switch but not the switch at the top of the ramp, the drain shield between the flippers will pop up temporarily.

Happy New Year and welcome to the club. Space Shuttle is a great game.

Tx. That was enough info for me to puzzle out all the issues. One entire column of the switch matrix that also affected the lane advance and the lower shuttle ramp switch.

No I haven't tried them yet.

No, I just put red sparkle paper behind them, lighting them up will really reflect on the pf glass.

Okay, so I noticed the TM sticker on the cabinet at first and now it was also pointed out that the (R) on the cabinet is also a decal. So clearly the stencil makers didn't get the memo from Williams Marketing about proper trademarking and had to go back after the fact with decals. I don't think many other titles have that goof. But here's an even bigger revelation to me:

WE'VE ALL BEEN CALLING THIS GAME BY THE WRONG NAME!

It is officially "SPACE SHUTTLE PINBALL ADVENTURE" according to all the graphics and copyright / trademark. The words SPACE SHUTTLE are really large and PINBALL ADVENTURE is really small, but that is the full name of this game. Sort of like The Machine: Bride of Pinbot where we usually just call it Bride of Pinbot.

So from now on people, Space Shuttle Pinball Adventure or SSPA for short.

Back in those days, all the pinball makers were afraid of copycat games rushed to market. So probably Williams was trying to copyright and trademark this title as best as possible.

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Yup, you are right about the name. That doesn't mean I want to use the whole name. Like The Bride or Capt. Fantastic (and the Brown Dirt Cowboy) it's just too long for everyday conversation. Kinda like a person with three middle names.

Most of the pictures of older machines show the round ones.
But I just spied in the blue catalog: 2x Tapered. Not that is shows where it is supposed to go...

Space Shuttle Williams 535 Bumper
23-6579
23-6551

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Orphan hole near lanes: Why? Was this for a 3rd ball lock that never materialized?

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That is an interesting thought. There is no other reason for it. No wires run though there. Maybe it was an early thought.
Would have been similar to the upper lock on Firepower or Baracorra.

Anyone have a good picture of an original Power Supply for SS, I can use for reference (vs one that has been "bullet proofed")?

Williams Space Shuttle 535
System 9
D-8345-1914

maybe this?

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Tx. I'll file that away as well! When I get brave enought to start cleaning up that part of the machine.
But I was looking for the PCB Power Supply board in the backbox.

my bad, and i wasn't drinking lol. this is a transformer and in my mind (don't know why) i was looking for this picture in my restoration.

here's the right one.

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My space shuttle has some issues with the displays. 2 of the 4 displays have faint numbers in the "10" digit location. Not familiar with troubleshooting displays, so is this something that can generally be fixed or does this mean the displays are bad and need to be replaced?

Wiggle the connectors and see if it improves.

Photo: Start Button Wiring?

Anyone have a clean photo of the start button wiring inside the cabinet?
I have a loose ground grommet off the braid that is suspiciously near the bolts for the player start (that appears to have no ground).

Found a replacement display (plug and play) for the original Williams board from KSarcade. https://ksarcade.net/.
Works like a charm (although I had to drill out new holes to match the bolts on my board).

A little update as I had some time to dive into this tonight. Re-seated all cables on the displays and on the display board, nothing. I then swapped Player 1 cable with Player 2 cable and player 2 display started to dim in the same spots. I guess this might point towards the cable itself? However I went a step further and ran a display test and ALL displays work perfectly fine throughout the entire switch test. Thoughts?

OK narrowing it down even more. Grabbed a cable from my Grand Lizard, that didn't fix anything, so I'm ruling out the cable. I then had the game on and repeatedly wiggled the all the connections on the display board, no change. I traced P1 & P3 displays back to J1 on the CPU, and that is where my problem is I do believe. When I wiggle that cable around I can randomly get all of the digits to light up with no "gassing" or "fainting". However, I don't know what the fix is from here

Sounds like either cold solder or a bad connector. I would reflow the solder on the board and see if that gets it. If you can repin the board and connector that's probably ideal.

Above my current skill set. Got a friend that's going to come over and tackle it. Thanks for the feedback!

One update and one new problem.

Update on the displays. The problem is on the main board. If we put pressure on the connection the displays work fine. After examining the board it appears the board has possible bad traces. Temp fix was to wire tie the connection to keep the wires taut. This has worked so far.

New problem. I had one GI light out under the left sling. In troubleshooting, I tried using alligator clips to from the working light to the non working light. I didn't really know what or how to do this so I just started clamping the clips onto the different colored wires. End result, no change. After messing around with the alligator clips for about 10 minutes I noticed that I now don't have any GI lights. I checked all fuses in the backbox with a DMM and all tested OK. I lifted the PF and didn't see any fuses there and I'm assuming there are none. Not sure how to troubleshoot this GI light issue any further.

GI light problem resolved. I pulled one side of the fuses out of the clips and tested with DMM and that revealed 2 bad fuses. Replaced and now my GI lights are working again.

Yup that's how you check for bad fuses.

Just picked up my Space Shuttle last weekend. Great Williams game of the early Multiball days. It’s not the best of shape but definitely not the worst either. I do plan on doing a few things. I do have a question. In the coin door on the mech switch I’m missing the actuating blades. Is this something I can use piano wire for? Or does anyone have any of these switches for sale? And if you look at the head you’ll see one of the previous owners covered up some minor wear around the outside with a painted black edge. Is there anything I can do to try and get that black paint off leaving the original paint under or no?

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If you're wiggling the connector and the displays are working, I'd say with 99.9% certainty you have a connector issue, not a trace problem. Do you have a soldering iron? I think reflowing the solder on those pins would set you right, if not, repinning the connector should. I (or many here I'm sure) can walk you through this if you haven't done it before.

Also - be careful clamping random wires under the PF if you're really unsure what you're doing. That's a great way to blow a game up quick .

All the connectors have already been repinned, so that's how we came to the conclusion its the board and not the connectors. I'm not too worried about it at the moment since the cable tie is doing its job.

Agree on the wire clamping. I thought I knew what I was doing and obviously didn't. Question for you. My right sling only has 1 light which works. The socket for the 2nd light is gone. As a temp solution is there a way I can use alligator clips to light the second bulb under the slingshot and if so what do I need to do to make that happen?

Did they just repin the connectors? Or did they actually add new pins to the PCB? If you had bad traces, just wiggling the connector wouldn't (shouldn't) cause the display to work if a trace was lifted or broken, which is why it doesn't make sense to me. I guess I could be wrong obviously not having seen it in person, but if just putting a wire tie on the connector solves the problem, I'd place a pretty big bet on bad pins on the PCB or just cold solder, assuming the molex connector was repinned well. If you haven't checked to rule that out, I really would recommend it. You could also check for continuity from the pin on the PCB to the display (with game off), or even just from the pin to wherever it goes next on the PCB. If you have continuity, you know the trace is fine.

For the light, I'd just order a new socket and add it back in honestly. I would avoid most temporary solutions, especially with things like alligator clips. There is too much of a chance they would come loose and short to something else under the playfield

Hello all! Long time lurker but this is my first post. Slowly working through a new-to-me Space Shuttle and am wondering if there's a US supplier for a repro ramp? I've spent some time on google and everyone seems to be out of stock. I thought if anyone knew where I might find one it's this forum. Let me know. Thanks!

Starship Fantasy should have them in March or April.

Bookmarked. Thanks!

Found a new patch in our store today, and I'd been waiting patiently to find something to dress up the "wall" above the USA lanes...

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That fits just right there. I put a piece of mirror plex there, gives a nice reflection of the back of the pops.

Thanks for the tip! I'll order one just to have even though my ramps are fine, can't hurt to have spares!

You could try to use a magic eraser and see if that will take off the top layer of paint, but for as much trouble as it is going to be to get that paint off, I would just get some stencils and repaint it.

So I updated my Space Shuttle score displays with modern LEDs and have three working plasma score displays, a working ball/credit display and the original control board. Would it be ok to offer those for sale here or should I post directly in the "market". Also, what's a fair price for this stuff?

Hey I may be interested in those and I'm also in Portland.

I'm repeatedly having issues where, if the ball goes up the ramp, but not all the way (so it rolls back down), the ball then gets hung up on the wireform under the shuttle. I've adjusted the shuttle position this way and that but it seems to continue happening. Anyone else run into this? If so, how did you resolve?