Thanks Vid!!!

Getting the base color just right on this one is a bitch. Nothing in a paint chip from the big box stores is even close. After getting the right hue of purple in the blue, I ended up mixing in black on-site to get it dark enough. Go a little darker than you might think. Most of the units that you see have faded and are lighter than the original. A plain Navy Blue is not really dark enough.

I wish there was an affordable device for taking a color sample and providing a standard color number that could be used to obtain a perfect match... if such a device or method exists, someone please chime in here .

Mac

Edit: problem solved

My lane change feature does not work. Does anyone have any idea what may cause this? Can it be enabled or disabled via the diagnostics?

start by checking your right flipper button double switch if it's dirty or not making contact.

I have already replaced the left and right side with all new switches. I think maybe the EOS switch on the right flipper assembly may be out of adjustment or possibly corroded.

yes, i meant on the right flipper assembly.

Go into Switch Test and see if the lane change switch is registering.

I got it!!!! For some senseless reason, much like everything else that I've found that the previous owner did to this machine, they bent the EOS switch leaf completely closed and in doing so mangled it. Its a good thing I'm getting all new PBL assemblies. Everything that I am finding on this thing is some sort of hack or pointless adjustment. Now I have another issue that has to do with lighting. My thrusters behind the backglass don't work at all as well as the arrows that read 1000, 2000, 4000 plus, and Extra Ball. You guys have any advice on that issue??

Check column 5 (strobe 5) on your lighting matrix.Check 1J7-6 connector pin, Q27, Q19.

My Space Shuttle bell is acting funny. The coil that strikes the bell activates when it should, but the bell doesn't really "ring" or "chatter" like a school bell. It just strikes it once with a thonk, and that's it. Is this a mechanical issue with the bell striker, or something else?

-Doug

Is there a little switch on the bell that breaks the connection when the hammer is in contact with the bell housing?

What exactly is q27-q19?

also check if you still have the little spring on the bracket/selenoid that hit the bell.

edited. sorry, it's for the post above you.

I think you've replied to the wrong post. Halflip has the bell issue

damn it, you are right.

if the spring doesn't work properly or not there, it will go ''ding'' one shot.

The spring is there and pulls back the lever when the coil de energizes, as it should. Here's a pic of the assembly, it looks like it's all there...

I took some pics and vids of what's going on. The switch appears to be N/C, as the coil doesn't fire when I opened the switch...Hmm...

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your leaf switch needs to be adjust. when you push on the bracket it doesn't open. it doesn't take much, 1/64 gap.
it's normally close and should open just a bit when the coil is activated.

Ahhhh, that makes total sense. I'm pretty new at this so, so everybody's advice is really helpful, thank you. I'll try adjusting it when I get back home.

Thanks!
-Doug

Light driver section of the MPU. Q19 is a 2N6427 Darlington transistor, Q27 is a TIP42 transistor. All the lights you mentioned (plus a few more) are on this column in the light matrix.

Bend that bracket back straight also that hits the bell, its bent.

Okay, pulled and tested those. 2n6427 is dead, Tip42 reads as 1 on the meter

You guys rock. That is a difficult switch adjustment since it needs to be open just enough to break the connection when the lever activates. Ringing works great now.

I will bend back the bracket; I never realized it wasn't supposed to be bent like that until you pointed it out!

Thanks!
-Doug

glad it's working.

don't touch that bracket that's how it's supposed to be. never saw one straight.

here's mine.

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bell_tilt_panel1_(resized).JPG

Hmmmm interesting. Mine is perfectly straight and functions, very loud and clear. I guess bent or straight it doesn't matter lol

I just noticed something in your pics. Where is your tilt ball and tilt switch?

first pic everything is there except the ball, it's there now. those pics are from my restoration.

Wow beatmaster - way to pimp out the inside of your cabinet!

thanks, if you want to see more of the restoration.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-restoration-it-has-begun

Beatmasters resto will make anyone jealous.

just started a new resto paul, firepower. i don't think i'll go crazy on this one... well, maybe... a little.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-restoration-it-has-begun#post-2984477

Knowing you...... LOOK OUT!!

Just grabbed a set of plastics from CPR. I don't want to regret it if they sell out. My originals are nice but always good to have a complete set for such a classic!

Smart move, I did the same a while ago.

Yea, so when you order from CPR through Paypal do they send you a confirmation email regarding your order? I ordered on Friday 2/19 but haven't received any email from CPR stating my order was received or any shipping confirmation. I can't remember how long it took when I ordered my Bad Cats plastics last year

As I recall I didn't get a shipping confirmation either but that was a while ago. Has your PayPal account been charged?

I ordered the new set as soon as they released them and I did not get any confirmation , I got the package about a week later so I would say that you should be fine, they really should at least send out an email with the order info

Ok cool well that's good to know. Yea my PayPal was charged. I just thought I'd get a shipping email so I could keep an eye out for the package. I inquired yesterday but haven't received a reply.

So I ordered a set of CPR repro plastics for my Space Shuttle. Anyone else notice that the repros are a much lighter shade of blue? And yes, I took off the plastic film on the front and back. They look nice but I don't think my original plastics would have darkened over time. My machine is already in original good shape. Guess if I'm gonna replace a plastic or two I gotta just do the whole machine.

Anyone else notice this?

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Yeah that's to light.

The slings are really light too. I emailed Keith at CPR to inquire. Maybe I got a batch that didn't have enough blue ink!

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Man that looks terrible.

i agree, damn!

got my plastic set from cpr also but they don't look that bad. i know they don't match the original but this his is way off.

also, protect every area where there's a screw under the plastic, they scratch easily. worst than the original.

Egads. I hope they work with you on that. The original sling plastics were lighter in color than the star field perimeter plastics but neither were anywhere near as light as what you pictured. The original sling plastics are basically the same hue and value as the blue on the playfield. Glad I decided against getting a set. Sorry for your experience.

I ordered the CPR plastics years ago on the original run, they are the same light color... particularly the slings, so much so that it looks intentional, as if they were modeling prototype plastics. At first I wasn't all that happy, but in the end I don't mind the different shade of blue. I am curious the reason why the colors aren't even close... but then again the CPR backglass suffers from a color issue as well... too blue.

Hey nice to have you join us, I like the name. Once you do the cab and bb it will be perfect.

is that the stencil from classic arcade?

Is there a good source for a partial playfield overlay for this game? My playfield has lot of wear on it (see picture) but unfortunately from both a time and money perspective, getting a new playfield isn't an option at the moment. Really I'd just like to have the center look cleaner, I'm not as concerned with the rest of the playfield at the moment. Is there a place to purchase something like this or is it all or nothing?

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