I think the dual shuttle example looks the best, JMO!

I would try to match the blue of the plastics. I think I'd actually want it clear so I can backlight it, so yes I'm in.

Yea, the unsymmetrical doesn't look right. Every grill set I've seen is symmetrical. There's a reason why more symmetrical faces are more beautiful, our eyes are prejudice.

While there are a lot of color choices in acrylic, it is still somewhat limited. I will do all colored ramps in a transparent plastic. As far as the blue is concerned, there is the dark blue that I did for Space Station and then the only other blue is much lighter. I have also ordered some dark red transparent that I should have any day now. When I do get these ready I will likely form a blue, a red and a clear for all to see. I sold my Space Shuttle to a friend (same guy that loaned me his Space Station). When I get the first forms done will see if I can go to his place to test fit and get some photos.

If you guys did not watch this video yet - check it out!

Great job, and thanks for the English subtitles, LOL

Here's the part numbers from the Williams Blue Catalog Parts List. It *should* be accurate, albeit hard to read. But the switches I ordered for my Space Shuttle were not correct when I matched the part numbers. Other parts, such as lane dividers, rubber rings, coils etc, were all correct. So be warned.

Which part are you specifically looking for? I can measure mine if you'd like as my machine is open.

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Thanks so much ! Thats exactly what i needed.

I joined the crew yesterday! It's an average one, some wear on the playfield around the inserts but not the worst I've seen. The plan is to get it cleaned up and play the hell out of it.

Best part of this pickup was the dad of the woman who owned it actually worked on the REAL space shuttle! Something with the communications system. Said he worked on Apollo too, it was pretty awesome. If I was thinking I would've had him sign the game but missed my chance.

One tech question: when I first picked it up all the displays were working fine. At one point last night they all just stopped working. The center rows of lights are out on the backbox too. Otherwise the game works fine. Any idea where to begin with troubleshooting?

Start with the easiest fix. Sounds like you may want to check the header pins on the CPU board. Cold solder joints may have flexed during transport or while playing and now they're intermittent. The backbox lights should be the easiest to diagnose. Follow them back making sure they're all connected properly and wiggle the connector slightly on the main board they connect to. If they go on and off, there's your culprit.

hey guys, I was playing a game last night and when I started a new game and the ball dropped in the A the machine shuts down the game and goes right back into attract mode, if it goes down the U or the S it will start going haywire all kinds of different sounds and then it tilts on me, game over, the attract mode works fine, I have all power and lights, I can start a game with no problem, flippers work and it will stay that way until it goes down one of the letters and then it shuts down, I have no clue what is wrong, hoping maybe someone had the same problem and a fix, thanks

Check your diodes on those switches.

Does the left outlane switch cause havoc also?

switch matrix short or blown diode allowing current backfow

I started a game and hit that left outlane switch and the stop and score started up, lol

all diodes on the USA and the left outlane switch are good

I don't know if this helps but if I start a new game and hit the pop bumpers first, the game goes crazy and tilts on me, only the 2 top bumpers, the bottom one works as it should

System 11's and in this case the very similar System 9's are very finicky with the switch matrix. Appears you have a matrix column issue. The switches in Column 4 are the U, S, and A lanes, the left outland as Vid mentioned, the upper ramp switch and also the 3 pop bumpers. On the bumpers it would be the scoring switch and not the switch that actually fires the pop bumper. Somewhere in that circuit (GRN-YEL wire that is daisy chained on those switches) you either have a bad diode (sometimes easier just to replace them than worry about them) or you have a dead short. Best to just start with a thorough inspection for problems with the wires. I just put a Space Station back together and had polished the lockdown mechanism as well as the playfield hangers. Didn't notice that when I put the hangers back on that I had just caught the side of a wire in the switch matix...was enough to puncture it. Was easy to find in this case, because as soon as I put the playfield down, the hangers contacted the lock down mechanism completing a path to ground....then HAVOC.

Good hunting...

how did you test the diodes, and did you test everything in that row/column?

thanks guys , I replaced all the diodes on all the switches that have the GRN-YEL wires and it still does not work, maybe it is on the board , I will keep checking

Check the 2N3904 transistor for that column, you can compare it to other of the same transistor around it.

I will check that , thank you for your help

that was the problem, installed a new transistor on the board for that column and my shuttle program is back up and running, thank you guys for your help

So I got my game all back together after rebuildng the three pop bumpers and it plays well for a beater. (The playfield will never be perfect and so I just grin and bear it.) The U and A lane switches are so finnicky. The game will play fine for a dozen games, then all of a sudden, the U lane will stop scoring. Then, it's the A lane. The problem is that they're dirty contacts. I've done everything I can to make them work minus filing them down, but I'm not sure what material they're made of. I *hate* opening this machine because of having to remove the ramps or risk cracking the plastics.

But the pop bumpers rebuild was ... exciting. They worked but only after cleaning the contacts on the new switches. Why would I have to?? They've never been used. But once cleaned, they worked. The right bumper is a bit weak. I think the switch that releases it back up is misaligned and so it only pop down half way. But they're far more powerful than they were.

I love the game, but boy are the outlanes a beast. 90% of the balls I lose are down the left lane. It's as if it was designed that way. Crappiest game - ~50,000, done in under 45 seconds. Best game so far - 1.7M (7,000 spinner + extra balls).

CLOSE AIRLOCK. AAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaah!

Good to hear it's up and running.

Try using a business card (the paper ones )and rub it between the contacts. Should help.

ok, im close to a fully functional machine. Its been almost a year as ive moved homes and been really busy with work and worked on this when i can. Hope you enjoy. Its been soo much fun working on it.Im feeling really good about how its come along. Its not a full blown pro resto but its about 90 percent nicer than the beast it was when i got it. I want to again thank all the people that have helped over the months and will show full pics of the machine in hopefully a week or so once its up and running. The only thing left is actually a dollar part im waiting on order for the single drop target which is the target reset plate. Soooo frustrating a wait !!!

before....

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The last few are after paint. Here are a few more.....

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sorry, hit the send too quick

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damn i hate puters ! lol IMG-20141018-00407.jpgIMG-20141018-00408.jpgIMG-20141017-00405.jpgIMG-20141028-00447.jpg

i was missing the front gate wire assembly on the bottom of the space shuttle and had too make it myself. Turned out really well.

playfield before ....

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After...IMG-20140816-00152.jpg

i know thst this has been discussed already but want to make sure what im doing. Ive done this with my F1f Tomcat but need too make sure. I want to do this before the playfield goes in . Is it the black wires you see that need to be cut and heat shrinked in the photo in order to make the led flashers work properlly ?
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Ok, here is the repainted cab.
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one more . Sorry, i dont take great pics lol

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That is lookin REAL good.

Wow, that clean cabinet looks AWESOME. And your homemade shuttle wire looks every bit as good as the original. Way to go! I might have to ask you for help once I get to put mine back together....!

Yeah you could sell those. Did you use that jig?

Thanks guys!.

Nope, used a small vise and a various assortment of pliers, files, tools etc. Took about 4 tries before i got it right.

Wow nice job.

I'm considering this decal set for my SS: ebay.com link: Space Shuttle Pinball Machine Insert Decals LICENSED

Anyone have one installed that can share pics? Any tips for installation?

It is missing the black outline on the "SPACE" and "SHUTTLE" text in the hotdog inserts.

I'd find a more accurate set to install.

Jeff has a large library of art (and one of the few that's reproducing various pop bumper caps), but his stuff isn't always accurate or complete, and I don't think any of it is licensed as far as I know.

I noted the same discrepancy, and passed on the set for that reason. But in my case the only inserts I really needed were the hotdogs, so it did not make sense to spend the money.

So you might have a conditional option: IF you need the rest of the set and that one is otherwise accurate (or no others are available...?) it might be worth considering IF you are handy enough with a paintbrush to fill in the black lines (they are outlined for you at least). Ultimately I touched up my inserts and did just that...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-rehab-by-a-pin-newbie-oh-noes#post-1997242

FWIW, I also noted the repro stickers for the drop targets are not 100% accurate to the originals: there is some detail missing in the dish arms, but most people probably would not notice that if the gold color and sheen is correct.

nice job, where did you get the stencil from?

classic arcades

Do you have the thick or thin bb?

Sorry, not sure what bb is ?

Back box.

Yeah, that thought and your reasoning is what I originally had in mind. But I really like the Shuttle logo and a trace was simple enough so I figured why not? I get what you're saying about "NASA=shuttle so how many do you need"... but I thought the shuttle logo is only seen on the cabinet sides, so why not somewhere on the front as well? As for redundancy and overkill, just on the front you have the Williams logo in the backglass, on the apron, and on the coin door, oops. I previously explained my personal dislike of mirrored clipart so I tried to split the difference.

Nonetheless, there's a good argument for each concept and personally, my almost changes with the weather.

So I submitted the final tweaked art and should have finished samples of all three, hopefully within the month. The verdict will likely come out of the installed visuals.

(I might submit a request for a coin door insert, in place of where the Williams sticker would be. Could be a good place for the Shuttle Logo if I decide on the dual-Williams speaker panel).

Ahh right. lol. I have the thin one.