You count pins counter clockwise starting left of the notch.

I will check on this when I get off work in 3 hrs.

Lets start with something simple, both switches don't work. Look on the switch matrix page of the manual and both are on the same column and share a green/black wire. Most likely since they both are on the same wire and both don't work, the green/black wire is broken. So you find the closest switch that is on a green/black wire (shooter lane switch) and see if there is continuity between the two switches on the green/black wire. If there is continuity on the green/black wire then test the diodes for each of the kicker switches to see if they are open.

Does it register in switch test? Check the switch contacts to make sure they are normally open , then push on target and see if contacts close with reasonable pressure, clean the contacts with a crisp dollar bill. Test the diode for an open. And lastly check continuity of each wire color to another switch that has the same color wire for both colors. For example check the green/orange wire to the "S" shuttle switch and white/blue wire to the center stand up switch.

Most game coils are active in attract mode, except for special solenoids and flippers. So if your flippers are active in attract mode you need to test U-7 pin 10 with a logic probe, this should be low. If this is low then test the base lead of Q-86, this should be low also. If the base of Q-86 is low then check Q-86 for a short between emitter and collector. If its shorted the replace Q-86. Now if they are highs, then test further upstream (U-58).

Was the game in attract mode? If it was then it sounds like U-58 pin 6 is shorted to ground.

It could be U-58 or it maybe U-7. One chip drag down another chip that it's connected to. When you don't get a high or a low signal from a chip it can be in between .8-2 volts. This is ignored by the chip but this will still turn on a transistor like Q-86. So maybe its U-7 causing the bad reading on U-58.

If this is true then you would have 6 switches not working. If all 6 switches on the white/blue wire are not working then look to SR16. But if only the L and S are not working it will be a broken wire. You don't say where you took the reading at, if it was pin 7 of 1J10 then its a bad SR16 but if you took the reading on the white/blue wire at the switch then it can be a broken wire.

Find SR16 on the CPU board and check for ohms from pin 1 (should have a white dot) to pin2, it should read @ 560 ohms. Then check from pin 1 to pin 3 and then from pin 1 to pin 4 and so on. all should read 560 ohms. Check ohms with power off.

You also have a break in the green /black switch wire.

With j-10 disconnected, check the ohms from the white/blue wire to ground. What do you get.

This is your problem. Look for something shorted to ground.

Making progress!

High in attract mode, low when you start a game.

This should be low in attract mode, high when you start a game.

Good.

This should be high in attract and low when you start a game.

Since pin 11 doesn't change then pin 13 will stay low.

These wont change until U-6 pin 11 changes.

This is a problem, this needs to go low when you start a game. There is nothing between U-6 and U-4 that can cause problems so its got to be one chip or the other.

Your almost there!

I would want the pin 100% before the hard top.

Might be the main amp or a preamp. Not so easy to test without a O scope. You can use mine if you want to. You might try an old pair of cheap phone headphones with high impedance like @ 64 ohms. You could get a 1/8 inch stereo extension cord and cut the male end off and connect the ground wire to the speaker ground, take one of the speaker positive leads and connect it to a metal probe for testing chip leads. Connect the head phones to the extension test cord and test the preamp output by listening to the sound volume level. You can test filter caps by checking for sound on each side of the cap.

Did you find a good ribbon cable?

Is this the center lead of Q-84 or Q-85?

Ok then you don't have voltage on the coil or the coil winding is broken and lastly the wire from the coil to the cpu could be broken or a cracked header pin for this wire at the cpu.

You need to have 29 volts on both wires on the coil.

Then there is a break in the blue wire between the coil and the CPU. Check the molex connector under the back box.

No, start by using a jumper connected to the ground braid. Briefly touch the other end to the coil blue wire. Does the coil fire? Yes, then touch jumper to Q-85 metal tab. Does it fire now?

This not caused by the tip. There is a trace that connects the tip to the header pins. You can also find the correct blue wire on the IDC connector and use the jumper there to see if the rest of the wiring is good. If coil fires then board issue if it doesn't fire then there is a break in the blue wire.

Correct.

Nice find on the molex connector. So close now!
Im stuck at work for a couple more hours, but will check it over when I get home.

I got nothing. Can't find a schematic for the sound board.

Is your ribbon cable good? Are you getting -12 volts to the sound board? Are you getting 5 volts to the sound board?

I found a sound board schematic for Comet, it should be the same as SS. Find U-2 pin 4, should have -12 volts. U-2 pin 8 should be 5 volts. Check for ground by putting red lead on U-6 pin 24 and black lead on U-6 pin 12, meter should read 5 volts. Then check U-1 pin 9 and 12 with logic probe, I think they should be pulsing.

All test were to be done on the sound board. Use page 25 of the Comet manual.

Damm how many fishing trips do you get!

Then try this same test on U-4 or U-5. Just making sure all the proper voltages are there.

I think you may need it to be in sound test first. Try it again is test.

What chip number are the sound board Rom chips? Also which jumpers are installed on the sound board? When sound #7 works is it the correct volume and can you adjust it with the cabinet volume pot?

There are no jumpers on the original board because at the time of manufacture there was only the one type (2532 EPROM) of Rom chip. Now there are also 2732 EPROM chips now. Your new board should have 2 jumpers on it. Did you use the originals chips in the new board? If so did you set the 2 jumpers for the older style chips?

Jumper 10 is installed when you want to run a game without an external sound board or as a test to bypass the external sound board. W-11/W-12 I believe is for differ types of game Rom types.