Hey All,
Recently picked up a Space Shuttle. Playfield is pretty rough, so the plan is to make sure it is functional and then do a hardtop. I can play a game, however, there are several issues I have been trying to diagnose:

1. Left sling does not work. Coil tested good
2. Sling scoring does not work on either slings
3. L in shuttle does not score
4. Right pop bumper does not work - Bad coil, haven't replaced yet
5. Bottom Pop bumper does not work - Good coil
6. With sound board plugged in I get wind tunnel sound in attract mode. In test mode, only sound 7 works. ROMS have been ordered
7. Very faint sounds from cabinet speaker - I cleaned pot in cabinet
8. Coils are active in attract mode

I'm to the point where I believe I have some bad transistors. I have some TIP102s, but I don't have any of the pre-driver (2N4401) on hand, so I will have to order them.

Thanks for your help!

Attached are pics of the left sling switch and scoring switch. The resistor on the activation switch appeared backwards vs the other sling that works, so I tried flipping it and that did not work. The other pic is the scoring switch. Are these wired correctly? I couldn’t find a good pic in the shop out images.

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So. Resistors can be orientated either way, DOH. Thanks internet.

I looked at some readings tonight based on what I found in another thread. I assumed for ICs that don't have pins listed in the schematics, 1 starts to the right of the notch and the numbers go clockwise. Readings taking in attract mode.

U4 19 should be high, my readings were pulsing low to high (based on pin 19 per schematic)
U6 13 should be low, my readings high
U6 12 should be low, my readings low
U58 6 should be high, I got nothing. U58 5 was pulsing very fast between high/low
U6 11 reads low
U59 9 should be high, my readings low
U59 8 should be low, my readings low

So bad U4, U6 and U58?
What readings should I get on U7?

Thanks!

Thanks GRUMPY

For U4, do I count, or use the schematic? If I do pin 19 based on counter-clockwise I get pulsing low.

U6 13 should be low, I could not get any reading
U6 12 should be low I got Low
U58 6 should be high, I got low
U6 11 I got Low
U59 9 should be high, I got high
U59 8 should be low, I got Low

So, bad U6 and U58?
U4?

Thanks

Thanks GRUMPY

Yes, all tests in attract mode, so u-58 bad?

I get nothing on u7-10 and the base of Q86 in attract mode. I get readings from the other pins.

Thanks GRUMPY

In regards to the L not lighting in shuttle. I found that it is the white/blue wire in 1J10. Instead of reading high like the other switches, it reads low. In addition, it is connected to the S of USA, which isn't working. I replaced the diode on L. Can I use a 1n4004 in place of a 1n4001? I'm going to replace the diode on S next.

Thanks GRUMPY . Yeah, nothing works on white blue. I checked continuity and all seemed good. Is it normal for the pins on 1J8 to pulse high to low very rapidly? Below are my results from switch test.

Column Register? Row Register
1J8-5 WHT-BLU 1J10-7
Left drop Yes Left coin ?
Ctr drop Yes Left flip return No
Rt drop Yes “L” target No
Shooter lane No “S” lane No
Spinner Yes Ramp bullseye No
Ramp bulls eye No Ctr standup No
Left kick No
Rt kick No

Test (resized).png

Finally had time to get the board out tonight. SR16 tested good. Haven't replaced Q85, Q75 or U7 yet.

I get 2.3 ohms why/Blu to ground

So, I replaced Q85, Q84 and Q75, Q74 along with U6 and U7 and now the flippers and none of the special coils work. Fuses appear fine. Where do I start? I replaced U6 and U7 with a 7402. Thanks

Oops. Flippers and special coils DO NOT work.

One issue resolved! White/Blue was shorted to ground at the coin door and a diode was bad on the left coin slot. Now all white/blue items score!

Did some probing:
U6 12 should be Low = Low
U6 13 should be Low = Low
U7 10 should be Low = Low

I replaced U58
U58 6 should be high = high

Thanks @grumpy! I have the board out at the moment. Going to replace Q86. Anything else I should look at while it’s out?

Replaced Q86, still no luck. Here are the readings:

U6 11 - I replaced this one. I can't get a reading in Attract or during game
U6 12 - Low attract, Low in game
U6 13 - Low attract, Low in game (should be high?)
U7 10 - Low in attract, Low in game (should be high?)
U58 6 - high in attract, high in game (should be low?)

Also, U4 pin 19 (by counting counter clockwise from notch) I do not get a reading

Success! Replaced U-4 and flippers and special coils are back! I think I have the board in a place where I can order the hardtop. I’m thinking it may be easier to find the green/black wire issue with the playfield out on the rotisserie, what do you think?

Now, sound. Where do I start? With the board unplugged, I hear faint music. I assume this is coming from the sound rom on the main board. Maybe the amplifier is shot? I’ve looked for a replacement ribbon cord but haven’t found one.

Thanks for all your help to get me this far!

I isolated the sound using the W10 jumper and the mpu board sound works. So, this points to the sound board as the issue.

One more issue. I got all the special solenoids working last night with the exception of Q85 (Right Jet). I'm not getting any reading on the center lead of the transistor (get high on the others). I replaced the transistor and still get no results. What am I missing?

Center lead of Q-85 doesn’t have a reading with the probe. When I installed it, I checked with a DMM to make sure leads were soldered well and had continuity.

Thanks! I put in a new coil for this one. Very confident there is power. I’ll check the wire from the coil to cpu tonight.

For the soundboard I decided to order a refurbished one from K’s arcade. I’ll sell mine for parts on eBay.

Ok, Q-85 is still alluding me. Changed header. Get good continuity. 29 volts at coil. Still no reading on center pin. What am I missing?

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I get 29 volts on both wires.

I will check that. Question, I get continuity from the wire at the coil to the CPU. Is there a way for it to have a break when I get continuity?

I get 29 volts from that pin on the CPU. When I installed the second TIP, I checked and got continuity to the pin. Is there something else in path? Replace the 2N4401 again?

Coil fires when I jumper from blue wire to ground. Coil does NOT fire when I jumper ground to Q-85 tab (The other transistors work, though). Bad trace? This is the second Tip122 I've installed. Thanks Grumpy!

Thanks. I get continuity on all 3 blue wires because they share the same power wire, right? So if I desolder the power wire on the right jet bumper I can isolate the blue wire on that coil for continuity testing, right?

Thanks grumpy for getting me this far!

Q-85 solved! Someone re-pinned the plug with a molex plug and put the wire for the right jet bumper in the 8 slot instead of the 9 slot. Moved the pin, and we are in business!

Now, sound. Got my tested working soundboard from KsArcade. Popped it in, no difference. I re-flowed all the pins on the 40 pin connector. Still no difference. Following pinwiki and doing the jumper, I get sound with the board unplugged. What should I look at next? Thanks!

Thanks! For the "fun" of it I tried putting in a new 6808 at U11. No difference.

On the pinwiki, it says the sound goes from cpu then out to soundboard and back to amp. So if sound works when I jumper and if we assume the board I bought that KS arcade confirms is working, are there components on the CPU that could be suspect? That's why I tried the U11

The soundboard I bought came with a ribbon cable. How do I count pins on a 40 pin connector so I can find the pins the should have voltage?

Awesome! Is U2 on the cpu or the sound board? I can’t seem to find markings on the soundboard. Are you able to share the schematic you found?

Thanks @grumpy. I'm back from my last fishing trip. U2 pin 4 is -14.95v. U2 pin 8 is 4.825v. On U1 pin 9 I get Low. Pin 12 High. U-6 doesn't have a rom in it. That is needed to do you the last test you suggested, right?

There's never enough fishing trips!

So, I get 5volts on one of the other roms.

For the sound test. I get constant, until sound 7. Sound 7 works and then I get pulsing on 12 and pin 9 pulses during sound then changes from low to high or high to low after the sound is done. I did the test using the K's Arcade tested working board.

Here's a pic of the original soundboard. Sound seven worked on this one and the refurbished one I bought. The volume on the board does make it go louder or softer.

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What does delete w10&w11 from the manual mean? Thanks

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The board that is in came from KsArcade with the sound roms in it. I didn't change them.

I recorded my sound test and diagnostic. Sound test:

Diagnostic:

Thanks @ksarcade. I bought a used working board from a guy on eBay and it works and both the soundboard I bought from you and my original one works. I am still trying to fix my original board. Thanks for the U12 tip, I’ll try that next.