(Topic ID: 224619)

Space Shuttle Coil, Sound and Scoring Issues


By ChrisPINk25

1 year ago



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  • 71 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by ChrisPINk25
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There are 71 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 1 year ago

Hey All,
Recently picked up a Space Shuttle. Playfield is pretty rough, so the plan is to make sure it is functional and then do a hardtop. I can play a game, however, there are several issues I have been trying to diagnose:

1. Left sling does not work. Coil tested good
2. Sling scoring does not work on either slings
3. L in shuttle does not score
4. Right pop bumper does not work - Bad coil, haven't replaced yet
5. Bottom Pop bumper does not work - Good coil
6. With sound board plugged in I get wind tunnel sound in attract mode. In test mode, only sound 7 works. ROMS have been ordered
7. Very faint sounds from cabinet speaker - I cleaned pot in cabinet
8. Coils are active in attract mode

I'm to the point where I believe I have some bad transistors. I have some TIP102s, but I don't have any of the pre-driver (2N4401) on hand, so I will have to order them.

Thanks for your help!

#2 1 year ago

Attached are pics of the left sling switch and scoring switch. The resistor on the activation switch appeared backwards vs the other sling that works, so I tried flipping it and that did not work. The other pic is the scoring switch. Are these wired correctly? I couldn’t find a good pic in the shop out images.

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#3 1 year ago

So. Resistors can be orientated either way, DOH. Thanks internet.

I looked at some readings tonight based on what I found in another thread. I assumed for ICs that don't have pins listed in the schematics, 1 starts to the right of the notch and the numbers go clockwise. Readings taking in attract mode.

U4 19 should be high, my readings were pulsing low to high (based on pin 19 per schematic)
U6 13 should be low, my readings high
U6 12 should be low, my readings low
U58 6 should be high, I got nothing. U58 5 was pulsing very fast between high/low
U6 11 reads low
U59 9 should be high, my readings low
U59 8 should be low, my readings low

So bad U4, U6 and U58?
What readings should I get on U7?

Thanks!

#4 1 year ago

You count pins counter clockwise starting left of the notch.

#5 1 year ago

Thanks grumpy

For U4, do I count, or use the schematic? If I do pin 19 based on counter-clockwise I get pulsing low.

U6 13 should be low, I could not get any reading
U6 12 should be low I got Low
U58 6 should be high, I got low
U6 11 I got Low
U59 9 should be high, I got high
U59 8 should be low, I got Low

So, bad U6 and U58?
U4?

Thanks

#6 1 year ago

I will check on this when I get off work in 3 hrs.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

2. Sling scoring does not work on either slings

Lets start with something simple, both switches don't work. Look on the switch matrix page of the manual and both are on the same column and share a green/black wire. Most likely since they both are on the same wire and both don't work, the green/black wire is broken. So you find the closest switch that is on a green/black wire (shooter lane switch) and see if there is continuity between the two switches on the green/black wire. If there is continuity on the green/black wire then test the diodes for each of the kicker switches to see if they are open.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

3. L in shuttle does not score

Does it register in switch test? Check the switch contacts to make sure they are normally open , then push on target and see if contacts close with reasonable pressure, clean the contacts with a crisp dollar bill. Test the diode for an open. And lastly check continuity of each wire color to another switch that has the same color wire for both colors. For example check the green/orange wire to the "S" shuttle switch and white/blue wire to the center stand up switch.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

8. Coils are active in attract mode

Most game coils are active in attract mode, except for special solenoids and flippers. So if your flippers are active in attract mode you need to test U-7 pin 10 with a logic probe, this should be low. If this is low then test the base lead of Q-86, this should be low also. If the base of Q-86 is low then check Q-86 for a short between emitter and collector. If its shorted the replace Q-86. Now if they are highs, then test further upstream (U-58).

Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

U6 13 should be low, I could not get any reading
U6 12 should be low I got Low
U58 6 should be high, I got low
U6 11 I got Low
U59 9 should be high, I got high
U59 8 should be low, I got Low

So, bad U6 and U58?
U4?

Was the game in attract mode? If it was then it sounds like U-58 pin 6 is shorted to ground.

#10 1 year ago

Thanks grumpy

Yes, all tests in attract mode, so u-58 bad?

I get nothing on u7-10 and the base of Q86 in attract mode. I get readings from the other pins.

#11 1 year ago

It could be U-58 or it maybe U-7. One chip drag down another chip that it's connected to. When you don't get a high or a low signal from a chip it can be in between .8-2 volts. This is ignored by the chip but this will still turn on a transistor like Q-86. So maybe its U-7 causing the bad reading on U-58.

#12 1 year ago

Thanks grumpy

In regards to the L not lighting in shuttle. I found that it is the white/blue wire in 1J10. Instead of reading high like the other switches, it reads low. In addition, it is connected to the S of USA, which isn't working. I replaced the diode on L. Can I use a 1n4004 in place of a 1n4001? I'm going to replace the diode on S next.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Can I use a 1n4004 in place of a 1n4001?

Yes

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

In regards to the L not lighting in shuttle. I found that it is the white/blue wire in 1J10. Instead of reading high like the other switches, it reads low.

If this is true then you would have 6 switches not working. If all 6 switches on the white/blue wire are not working then look to SR16. But if only the L and S are not working it will be a broken wire. You don't say where you took the reading at, if it was pin 7 of 1J10 then its a bad SR16 but if you took the reading on the white/blue wire at the switch then it can be a broken wire.

#15 1 year ago

Thanks grumpy . Yeah, nothing works on white blue. I checked continuity and all seemed good. Is it normal for the pins on 1J8 to pulse high to low very rapidly? Below are my results from switch test.

Column Register? Row Register
1J8-5 WHT-BLU 1J10-7
Left drop Yes Left coin ?
Ctr drop Yes Left flip return No
Rt drop Yes “L” target No
Shooter lane No “S” lane No
Spinner Yes Ramp bullseye No
Ramp bulls eye No Ctr standup No
Left kick No
Rt kick No

Test (resized).png
#16 1 year ago

Find SR16 on the CPU board and check for ohms from pin 1 (should have a white dot) to pin2, it should read @ 560 ohms. Then check from pin 1 to pin 3 and then from pin 1 to pin 4 and so on. all should read 560 ohms. Check ohms with power off.

#17 1 year ago

You also have a break in the green /black switch wire.

2 weeks later
#18 1 year ago

Finally had time to get the board out tonight. SR16 tested good. Haven't replaced Q85, Q75 or U7 yet.

#19 1 year ago

With j-10 disconnected, check the ohms from the white/blue wire to ground. What do you get.

#20 1 year ago

I get 2.3 ohms why/Blu to ground

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

I get 2.3 ohms why/Blu to ground

This is your problem. Look for something shorted to ground.

#22 1 year ago

So, I replaced Q85, Q84 and Q75, Q74 along with U6 and U7 and now the flippers and none of the special coils work. Fuses appear fine. Where do I start? I replaced U6 and U7 with a 7402. Thanks

#23 1 year ago

Oops. Flippers and special coils DO NOT work.

#24 1 year ago

One issue resolved! White/Blue was shorted to ground at the coin door and a diode was bad on the left coin slot. Now all white/blue items score!

#25 1 year ago

Did some probing:
U6 12 should be Low = Low
U6 13 should be Low = Low
U7 10 should be Low = Low

I replaced U58
U58 6 should be high = high

#26 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

One issue resolved! White/Blue was shorted to ground

Making progress!

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

U58 6 should be high = high

High in attract mode, low when you start a game.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

U7 10 should be Low = Low

This should be low in attract mode, high when you start a game.

#29 1 year ago

Thanks grumpy! I have the board out at the moment. Going to replace Q86. Anything else I should look at while it’s out?

#30 1 year ago

Replaced Q86, still no luck. Here are the readings:

U6 11 - I replaced this one. I can't get a reading in Attract or during game
U6 12 - Low attract, Low in game
U6 13 - Low attract, Low in game (should be high?)
U7 10 - Low in attract, Low in game (should be high?)
U58 6 - high in attract, high in game (should be low?)

Also, U4 pin 19 (by counting counter clockwise from notch) I do not get a reading

#31 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

U6 12 - Low attract, Low in game

Good.

Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

U6 11 - I replaced this one. I can't get a reading in Attract or during game

This should be high in attract and low when you start a game.

Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

U6 13 - Low attract, Low in game (should be high?)

Since pin 11 doesn't change then pin 13 will stay low.

Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

U7 10 - Low in attract, Low in game (should be high?)
U58 6 - high in attract, high in game (should be low?)

These wont change until U-6 pin 11 changes.

Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Also, U4 pin 19 (by counting counter clockwise from notch) I do not get a reading

This is a problem, this needs to go low when you start a game. There is nothing between U-6 and U-4 that can cause problems so its got to be one chip or the other.

#32 1 year ago

Success! Replaced U-4 and flippers and special coils are back! I think I have the board in a place where I can order the hardtop. I’m thinking it may be easier to find the green/black wire issue with the playfield out on the rotisserie, what do you think?

Now, sound. Where do I start? With the board unplugged, I hear faint music. I assume this is coming from the sound rom on the main board. Maybe the amplifier is shot? I’ve looked for a replacement ribbon cord but haven’t found one.

Thanks for all your help to get me this far!

#33 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Replaced U-4 and flippers and special coils are back!

Your almost there!

Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

I’m thinking it may be easier to find the green/black wire issue with the playfield out on the rotisserie, what do you think?

I would want the pin 100% before the hard top.

Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Now, sound. Where do I start? With the board unplugged, I hear faint music. I assume this is coming from the sound rom on the main board. Maybe the amplifier is shot?

Might be the main amp or a preamp. Not so easy to test without a O scope. You can use mine if you want to. You might try an old pair of cheap phone headphones with high impedance like @ 64 ohms. You could get a 1/8 inch stereo extension cord and cut the male end off and connect the ground wire to the speaker ground, take one of the speaker positive leads and connect it to a metal probe for testing chip leads. Connect the head phones to the extension test cord and test the preamp output by listening to the sound volume level. You can test filter caps by checking for sound on each side of the cap.

#34 1 year ago

I isolated the sound using the W10 jumper and the mpu board sound works. So, this points to the sound board as the issue.

#35 1 year ago

One more issue. I got all the special solenoids working last night with the exception of Q85 (Right Jet). I'm not getting any reading on the center lead of the transistor (get high on the others). I replaced the transistor and still get no results. What am I missing?

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

So, this points to the sound board as the issue.

Did you find a good ribbon cable?

Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

I'm not getting any reading on the center lead of the transistor (get high on the others). I replaced the transistor and still get no results. What am I missing?

Is this the center lead of Q-84 or Q-85?

#37 1 year ago

Center lead of Q-85 doesn’t have a reading with the probe. When I installed it, I checked with a DMM to make sure leads were soldered well and had continuity.

#38 1 year ago

Ok then you don't have voltage on the coil or the coil winding is broken and lastly the wire from the coil to the cpu could be broken or a cracked header pin for this wire at the cpu.

#39 1 year ago

Thanks! I put in a new coil for this one. Very confident there is power. I’ll check the wire from the coil to cpu tonight.

For the soundboard I decided to order a refurbished one from K’s arcade. I’ll sell mine for parts on eBay.

#40 1 year ago

Ok, Q-85 is still alluding me. Changed header. Get good continuity. 29 volts at coil. Still no reading on center pin. What am I missing?

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#41 1 year ago

You need to have 29 volts on both wires on the coil.

#42 1 year ago

I get 29 volts on both wires.

#43 1 year ago

Then there is a break in the blue wire between the coil and the CPU. Check the molex connector under the back box.

#44 1 year ago

I will check that. Question, I get continuity from the wire at the coil to the CPU. Is there a way for it to have a break when I get continuity?

#45 1 year ago

I get 29 volts from that pin on the CPU. When I installed the second TIP, I checked and got continuity to the pin. Is there something else in path? Replace the 2N4401 again?

#46 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Replace the 2N4401 again?

No, start by using a jumper connected to the ground braid. Briefly touch the other end to the coil blue wire. Does the coil fire? Yes, then touch jumper to Q-85 metal tab. Does it fire now?

#47 1 year ago

Coil fires when I jumper from blue wire to ground. Coil does NOT fire when I jumper ground to Q-85 tab (The other transistors work, though). Bad trace? This is the second Tip122 I've installed. Thanks Grumpy!

#48 1 year ago

This not caused by the tip. There is a trace that connects the tip to the header pins. You can also find the correct blue wire on the IDC connector and use the jumper there to see if the rest of the wiring is good. If coil fires then board issue if it doesn't fire then there is a break in the blue wire.

#49 1 year ago

Thanks. I get continuity on all 3 blue wires because they share the same power wire, right? So if I desolder the power wire on the right jet bumper I can isolate the blue wire on that coil for continuity testing, right?

#50 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

So if I desolder the power wire on the right jet bumper I can isolate the blue wire on that coil for continuity testing, right?

Correct.

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