Might be just what you're stuck with. You could install a weaker coil however and that would solve your problem. Otherwise, there may be something you can wire in-line to reduce voltage going to these coils, but putting in a weaker one is probably your best bet. You'll just have to figure out which, which unfortunately isn't my strong suit. There's a format for the lettering, you can look this up online (among being other places). "Coil conversion chart" or something along those lines would probably suffice in a search.

You cud also try puttin a wire wound resistor in line with the coil.
would have to experiment to get right valu

Perhaps you should check the travel of the kicker. It might not be travelling the correct distance as before, which might be causing the ball to pop up more often.

Also, is the ball creating the dimples or is it actually an "orange peel" or "fish eye" effect from the clearcoat. When I clear coated my old Space Mission, I didn't get the playfield as clean as I thought and some areas had this happen.

I waited to reply on this until I could look at my own Space Mission.
Is it only the cups that are launching the ball?

You say you rebuilt them, what exactly did you do?
There are no real "adjustments " on that assembly so if the ball did not jump before it should be related to the new parts.
The bracket is also the coil stop. Did you change the bracket and if so is the height of the stop the same?
Did you change the plunger or the link? Are they the same length?

Addition of or less travel of the mechanism will affect how the ball leaves the cup.

Finally, did you change the spring on the two drive arms?
The spring absorbs some of the energy applied to the mechanism. If the spring is to hard the hit on the ball will be harder.
The reverse is also true, softer spring softer hit.

Look at the parts that were changed in the rebuild....

Before adding resistors or changing the coil ,why not change the spring. They are cheap at the hardware store.

My game is not clear coated but there is definitely a place where the ball always lands and is indicated in the finish of the playfield.
Cliff

Easiest fix is to go with weaker coils. Marco has a G25-1000 and a G24-750. If the ball is coming out really fast-out-of-control, I would go with the G25-1000.

The dimpling could be the thickness of the clear coat. Is it fully cured ?

I had a Trident that I clear coated with Varethane and played the living crap out of it over 5 years or so.( likely 1500-1700 games).
When I sold it I noticed the dimpling of the playfield.
I think in that case the Varethane was not fully cured and I had applied it pretty thick. I think it cured with time.
I did wet sand and buffed it and it looked nice again.
In that case, I think the thickness of the Varethane was a curse and a blessing at the same time.

You could add a "mylar square" at the dimpling site.
I still think that if the length of the stop or plunger is different.

I recently restored a 1956 Rifle game and I had an issue where a target would get stuck down. I found that Williams makes at least 3 different coil stop lengths. Rather than changing electrical parts I added a taller coil stop and the problem was solved. The travel range made the moving target get stuck when it was all the way down. By limiting the travel mechanically I eliminated the issue.
Cliff

I have not seen it get airborne.
It does come out quickly and usually goes to the corresponding flipper.

I was going to mention that most dimpling is caused by air balls.
I played it a lot over the weekend.

All of the cups are as the game was when I bought it. ( Not sure if parts are original but it is likely)
I have not done any changes so if there is anything you need me to do ( measure, pics etc) let me know.
It is not at my house but I will be playing it again this weekend.
Cliff

I have a space mission and my problem was the opposite. I figured out that my setup angle was to steep and dialed it down until it was perfect. What angle is your game setup to?

That is pretty low.
I run them no less than 5 degrees.
Most of them I have higher so they play faster.

Did you change the spring when you rebuilt them ?
Did it launch the ball in the air before the clear coat ?

I would think that a new spring ( being tighter due to less fatigue) will launch it out harder.
It seems in looking at the mechanism that a softer spring would absorb more energy as the arm hits the ball.

Raise your angle and see if that fixes your issue.

I would guess that the length of the plunger/link is slightly different or the spring is not as strong as the one before.

It cannot be a switch issue because the switch is made when the ball enters the cup. That is it.

You did not change to the low voltage tap on the transformer as part of the restoration, correct ?

Wow, even with the old parts it still launches the ball.......WTF ?

jack the back legs way up. also, is the game high tapped?

Note: make sure the plunger is longer.

Old part # 2A-2364 2" plunger
New part #02-3407 2-1/4" plunger

So u had the wrong coils in the whole time?