(Topic ID: 222601)

Space Invaders Pop bumper continuously fires

By MikeN

5 years ago



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  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by vid1900
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 5 years ago

I purchased a Bally Space Invaders that needed a bit of work and I almost have it running except for one thing. I need some help trying to figure out why one solenoid is energizing. It does it continuously during game play and is scoring the pop bumper each time. When I put the machine in self test, it still continues to energize during the lights only test, displays only, sound, etc. Ironically during the solenoid test it seems to energize less but still has a tendency to energize more than when it should. When I do the stuck switch test it tells me one of the stationary targets is “stuck”. I paused from the solenoid testing to fix that stuck switch (#17) and it didn’t appear to have an issue. So I looked at one of the other stationary targets (#15) to make sure they looked the same. When I re-ran the stuck switch test it now tells me #15 is stuck and I can’t find anything different with it. (Super frustrating) The switch that is part of the pop bumper is a higher number. Without fixing the lower ones, which now I’m lost at, I can’t check to see if the pop bumper switch is showing to be stuck.

Is this something wrong with the boards. The pop bumper switch wires connect into the Aux. Lamp driver. The MPU self check at start-up appears to show it is in good condition. And I don’t see anything obvious with a battery acid being to blame.
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#2 5 years ago

Cut one leg of the capacitor on the switch leaving it disconnected. Make sure you do it of the rest of the switches that have them as well. The game will function fine without them or you can replace them for cheap.

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#3 5 years ago

I just did some further looking at the MPU and it does have some acid damage. Would this probably be the issue, even if the switch ties to the Aux lamp driver?

#4 5 years ago

Cut through one leg of the disc cap on the pop switch like Thrillhouse said.

That is usually the little disc capacitor that is on the pop switch.

Cut one leg of the disc cap (NOT THE DIODE) and see if the problem is fixed. If it is, replace the cap (.047uf 50v non-polarized )

You get 100 caps for $1 and if you've got an old Bally SS, you are going to need 'em.....

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-0-047uf-50v-ceramic-disc-capacitor-pkg-of-10.html

#5 5 years ago

As Vid and Thrill say, a bad capacitor on the switch will often cause this problem. Cutting off a leg of the cap is an easy fix to see if thats the problem.
As for the MPU, a 'lot' of battery damage will cause many problems and that will need to be dealt with too. Remove the battery, if it hasn't been done, and spray down the area with a baking soda vinigar mix. to neautrlize the acid.
Your gme is booting and playing so hopefully you have caught the damage in time.

#6 5 years ago

If it were simply a bad capacitor, would it be tripping during the self test sequence of lights only, display only, etc? Right now the solenoid is firing during these self tests.

#7 5 years ago

Sometimes you turn a Bally SS on and the pop is thumping out a little rhythm instantly.

Other times the cap has to warm up a few hours to get thumping.

Before you do anything, cut the cap leg.

It's easy, it's right in front of you, it requires no soldering.

It's the problem 99.999% of the time.

It looks like a disc with 2 legs on it.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeN:

I just did some further looking at the MPU and it does have some acid damage. Would this probably be the issue, even if the switch ties to the Aux lamp driver?

Cut the battery off the board with wire cutters, right now.

The game will still run fine without it (it just won't keep your high score).

You need to use Sno-Bowl to clean off the battery corrosion, vinegar is not strong enough.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid

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