the loud noise is probably the transfo buzzing, that means you have a bad bridge rectifier.

all connections/parts on that board will need to be verified.

If the rectifier is rough, the rest of the game probably is too. This means be prepared to redo lots of connectors.

First step is to get the power. You need to rebuild or replace that rectifier board. Rebuild would be new connectors, male and female, testing the bridges and diodes.

After that check all your voltages at the test points. Start at the rectifier board, then driver board, then MPU.

BTW - the wires on the bottom of the power supply are normal, the soldering to the pins on top are a hack.

First thing I do to every pin I get is to rebuild the power supply, replace the bridge rectifiers, all the connector headers, and re-pin the connectors, then go after the other problems on the machine.

An Electrician? No, an Electronics Technician is what you need. You can do it yourself if you know how to solder, there is plenty of content on the web to support you, the best of which (IMO) are Clay Harrell's (difficult to find) guides. I buy the repair kits from BigDaddy: http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/. I'm sure there are folks here that would be happy to rebuild boards for you as well.

First make sure you have the correct fuses in there. If there is a short you want the fuse to go instead of other electronics in the machine. That wire wrapped fuse is very scary and has to go!

Good luck! If this forum has shown me anything, it is that you CAN polish a turd.

Displays are probably fine if they all glow. You need to get the MPU to boot before you can even begin to worry about the displays and you have a lot of work ahead of you.

Not with out doing some hacking, which may stress connector pins. i would have to look at it further if there is unused pins anywhere or if you could safely double crimp a feature lamp bus pin somewhere.

The rectifier board in you game has a 9 pin connector at j1. the marco board has a 8pin connector at j1. The extra pin is for your fancy lights in the bacbox.

http://www.pinheadelectronics.com/

I've used this one before.

https://ksarcade.net/power-supply-1/new-replacement-rectifier-board-for-bally-and-stern-games.html

rd.

Hey barakandl, correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't that board need to be secured to the metal plate to act as a heatsink for the rectifiers?

http://rottendog.us/bps018.html
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=135-105

Either one of those boards should work for your machine. I have a rottendog board and it has the 9th pin for the lights. Just remember, if your not going to use the old board, hang on to it and practice soldering on it. Your going to have to learn so e basic soldering skills if your going to own a pinball machine.

the one from GPE gets good reviews and i see a 9pin plug on J1.

The heatsinks cool depending on how they are mounted. I always can fix my own rectifier boards, so not sure how the aftermarket ones do it. Have to assume they mount them on the component side with a heat sink. In that case you don't use the backside heat sink plate and it just floats off the standoffs.

And there you go, god has spoken.

I am confused about the continued talk of 9 pins @ J1. J2 is 9, J1 has 8.

Or are we talking about total, both keyed and non-keyed?

Yes. Header pins are usually counted by the number of spaces they take up not the actual amount of pins. If you only count the actual pins, you will order the wrong female connector if you need to replace it.