(Topic ID: 286752)

Space Invaders playfield lamps not working

By jibmums

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by jibmums
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

I have a Space Invaders that I'm putting back together and a number of the playfield controlled lamps were out. All but two of these were solved by replacing the old crappy bayonet bases. Here's what else I've checked out so far for the last two:

-The remaining two bases are fine, when I hotwire them to adjacent lamps with an alligator clip, they light up just as they should.

-The wires are fine, I checked continuity from the lamp terminals to the connectors in the backbox.

-One of the lamps was working yesterday when I first powered on, and stopped at some point.

-The contacts and pins are new and were replaced by a previous owner.

-One pin leads to Q7 and the other to Q27. When I check continuity from the pins to the legs of each SCR, I get a tone, so it's not a cold solder joint.

-Board is an AS-2518-14 which technically is incorrect for Space Invaders, but other than this it works fine, and everything I've read/heard says they're interchangeable.

What is my next step to determine the failure point? I currently have the board out of the machine. Please assume in your answer that I am a complete idiot when it comes to stuff like testing transistors, because I am.

#2 3 years ago

Compare readings of Q7 & 27 to the rest of the same type on the board. Chances are those two are bad.

#3 3 years ago

Yeah, here's where the "I'm an idiot" part of my post comes into play....

Okay, found a section on measuring the SCR's on Pinwiki. All the working parts measure right around 0.7, right in the middle of 0.5 and 0.8. Q7 measures 0.9 and I get no reading at all on Q27. I assume both parts are bad. However, when I swap the red and black leads for the second part of the test (where good = 1.4 to 1.6) I get no measurement on any of them. Is the board supposed to be in the game and powered on when testing?

#4 3 years ago

no, testing board with a meter should be done on a bench, no power to it, imo.
your multi meter's battery is supplying the power needed to give you readings.

the parts are cheap and readily available, i'd be changing them if in doubt.

#5 3 years ago

Grab a jumper wire stripped at each end.
Connect one end to ground.
One at a time, touch the other end of the wire on the Anode leg of the Q7 and Q27 SCRs on the lamp driver board. If the respective lamps illuminate it says continuity from the SCR to the lamp sockets are good. No illumination means a connectivity issue.
The small SCR Anode leg is the lower right leg on the board - you will notice the right most column of SCRs have their legs marked.

Next, disconnect the jumper wire from ground and connect it to test point TP3 on the lamp driver board. One at a time, touch the other end of the wire on the Gate leg of the Q7 and Q27 SCRs. If the respective lamps illuminate the SCRs are good and the problem is likely upstream at the 4050 buffer chip. If the lamps do not illuminate the SCR is faulty.
Test point TP3 on the lamp driver board is there specifically to help test SCRs as a mechanism to manually switch them on.
The small SCR Gate leg is the upper middle leg on the board.

2N5060a.png2N5060a.png

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Okay, found a section on measuring the SCR's on Pinwiki. All the working parts measure right around 0.7, right in the middle of 0.5 and 0.8. Q7 measures 0.9 and I get no reading at all on Q27. I assume both parts are bad. However, when I swap the red and black leads for the second part of the test (where good = 1.4 to 1.6) I get no measurement on any of them.

Comparing them to working SCR's is a good test. Q7 and Q27 need to be replaced based on your results.

Quoted from jibmums:

Is the board supposed to be in the game and powered on when testing?

No. The battery in your meter supplies the voltage needed for the diode test measurement.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Grab a jumper wire stripped at each end.
Connect one end to ground.
One at a time, touch the other end of the wire on the Anode leg of the Q7 and Q27 SCRs on the lamp driver board. If the respective lamps illuminate it says continuity from the SCR to the lamp sockets are good. No illumination means a connectivity issue.
The small SCR Anode leg is the lower right leg on the board - you will notice the right most column of SCRs have their legs marked.
Next, disconnect the jumper wire from ground and connect it to test point TP3 on the lamp driver board. One at a time, touch the other end of the wire on the Gate leg of the Q7 and Q27 SCRs. If the respective lamps illuminate the SCRs are good and the problem is likely upstream at the 4050 buffer chip. If the lamps do not illuminate the SCR is faulty.
Test point TP3 on the lamp driver board is there specifically to help test SCRs as a mechanism to manually switch them on.
The small SCR Gate leg is the upper middle leg on the board.
[quoted image]

Thanks Quench, this is exactly what I needed. Looks like both SCR's are bad and I'll get some next time I order from GPE.

As it turns out, and I don't know why I didn't do this right away, I have a spare Space Invaders head with backglasses that I display on my "wall of heads". I had previously robbed the auxiliary light board and sound board from it when I had problems with my existing ALB (damaged trace) and SB (needs a capacitor rebuild) and they both worked perfectly. The lamp board wasn't the same part # as the one giving me problems, but as it turned out, the one in the actual game was the wrong part # (though interchangeable) and the one in the other SI head was the correct part #. I pulled that one, cleaned it up a bit, wire brushed a little oxidation from the header pins, and it fired right up with all lamps working. So now I have a few boards to practice my soldering and desoldering skills on and see if I can bring them back to life.

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Comparing them to working SCR's is a good test. Q7 and Q27 need to be replaced based on your results.

Any idea why I wasn't getting the other measurement (1.4 - 1.6) when I swapped the leads, even on the good SCR's? I followed the instructions from Pinwiki exactly.

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