(Topic ID: 196178)

Space Invaders not starting

By Topcard

6 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by zacaj
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 6 years ago

I'm trying to bring a Space Invaders back to life. I put in a new rectifier board and repinned the connectors to it, and also had all the boards redone by a professional. However, when I turn the game on it boots fine and shows 40 credits, but it won't start a game.

When I run a test, it shows solenoid 10 and 11 not functioning, (the coin door and the flippers). Even if I close the coin door solenoid, it doesn't help. I also ran a switch test and it showed switch number 15, the clone target chamber, as being closed. The problem is that it is open and there doesn't appear to be any way it is being shorted. I have not reppined the connectors on the boards in the head, as they all looked with no signs of burn, looseness or corrosion. I'm more of an EM guy than SS, so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

#2 6 years ago

It'll start a game even if it can't move the solenoid, so those two not working isn't your problem here. First thing to check is if the start button registers in the switch test.

As for the clone target switch, test continuity between the two wires going to it to make sure it's really not shorted.

#3 6 years ago

When you say it boots fine, that means 7 flashes on the MPU and the flipper relay pulls? I'd start by re-pinning every .156 connector 1st and then the .100 on the MPU. Just fixed a Silverball Mania that had issues in almost every connector even though they looked fine.

#4 6 years ago

Connectors, connectors, connectors. Both headers and housing pins will need attention. The very least is to reflow the solder on the last four pins at either end of every header.

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

The very least is to reflow the solder on the last four pins at either end of every header.

That should have been handled when the boards were serviced, shouldn't it?

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

That should have been handled when the boards were serviced, shouldn't it?

Right you are. Try holding down the start button while lightly wiggling MPU J3.

#7 6 years ago

Agree with repinning your connectors - they're old, and per manufacturer, are only good for around 25 matings. Bite the bullet and repin them.

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

It'll start a game even if it can't move the solenoid, so those two not working isn't your problem here. First thing to check is if the start button registers in the switch test.
As for the clone target switch, test continuity between the two wires going to it to make sure it's really not shorted.

Not sure how to check that in the switch test. It just lists switches there are a problem with and the only one that comes up is 15. Is there another test I'm missing?

I tested for continuity with the two switch blades and there is none. There is continuity when I test the tabs the wires are solder to, but they are all connected by diodes, so wouldn't that create continuity there? (see attached photo).

Thanks

IMG_0456 (resized).JPGIMG_0456 (resized).JPG

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Right you are. Try holding down the start button while lightly wiggling MPU J3.

I believe all the pins on the board were replaced when rebuilt. No luck with wiggling.

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Agree with repinning your connectors - they're old, and per manufacturer, are only good for around 25 matings. Bite the bullet and repin them.

Yeah, I suppose i will have to. Was really just hoping it was something simpler. I just hate repinning.

Thanks

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from Topcard:

Not sure how to check that in the switch test. It just lists switches there are a problem with and the only one that comes up is 15. Is there another test I'm missing?
I tested for continuity with the two switch blades and there is none. There is continuity when I test the tabs the wires are solder to, but they are all connected by diodes, so wouldn't that create continuity there? (see attached photo).
Thanks

The test doesn't list problematic switches, just the lowest numbered closed switch.

There's only one diode on the switch, the other is a capacitor. Try clipping one leg of the green capacitor and see if the problem goes away. If there's continuity across the wires then it'll read as closed to the mpu, so there must be a problem somewhere

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