It will be one of these. I am not sure the size used.
(Topic ID: 226375)
Linked Games
Space Invaders
Bally, 1980
Topic Gallery
Belfast
1 week later
Berea, OH
Quoted from Bodypop:Do those varistors give problems
This thing is border line getting broken for parts
Varistors, not usually a problem - pretty robust component. You can identify if this is a problem quite quickly using a DMM or voltmeter, see if you have the voltages on your transformer. If all the secondary voltages are there and correct, everything from the transformer to the wall plug is good.
Quoted from Bodypop:So nearly all connectors changed and the thing is completely dead now
Get a meter and test your connections and voltages at test points. Most likely you miswired or crimped over insulation. Probably isn't even a major problem.
Quoted from Bodypop:This thing is border line getting broken for parts
Please don't. Sell it to a pinball hobbyist first. Parting out a game should really be used for very extreme cases such as those already missing a lot of parts, or water damaged and the like. Even then, you'd be surprised what someone can do to restore trash.
I’ll get another look at it tomorrow mate thanks for the advice .
I took the plug off the other night and the earth wire was black !
I was convinced that was the problem and stuck another on but still dead
I lost the high voltage first
Then everything
I was reading the space invader owners thread here .seems a lot of us have problems with this pin .makes you wonder why a good worker is worth so little
Quoted from Bodypop:I was reading the space invader owners thread here .seems a lot of us have problems with this pin .makes you wonder why a good worker is worth so little
I owned a Space Invaders for a little while. It was neglected and dirty but the playfield was in good shape. I did all the proper electronics work, rebuilding and cleaning and sold it at a fair price to a collector at a small profit. People recognize the value of a collectable classic such as Space Invaders when the electronics and mechanics are made to play like they should. I'm am going out on a limb, but my guess is you just don't have the experience or electronics knowledge at this point in time. Give yourself - and the game - a little break. This hobby is learning experience that takes patience and time. Even more if you don't have basic electronics knowledge.
Some of us pinball hobbyists including myself have had many years of electronics training and also have careers in electronics, as well as rebuilding and repairing a lot of these games.
Ok...I am glad you did not give up.
If you do not have the 180V then your displays will not run. For now, let's ignore that and come back to it.
I'll ask a few questions?
Does the game go into attract mode (various lights flashing) ?
Can you coin up a credit with the cabinet coin mechanism (you won't see anything, but you should hear a sound effect)
Do any sounds happen when you turn on the game?
Help with displays:
Check TP4 on the solenoid driver board. See if you have 230VDC there
No attract mode
Just them lights on bumpers and back box
It’s set to free play ,but the flippers on working like a game is in progress but nothing else
It does do 7 blinks on the mpu
Blink a bit slow around third
Nothing at test point 4 .
I’ve tested all fuses with metre
I’ve the replacement solenoid board and red light not lit for it for the 180
Test point 3 on it was around 230 which is meant to be 300 or something?
Game does nothing
Quoted from Bodypop:Nothing at test point 4 .
I’ve the replacement solenoid board and red light not lit for it for the 180
The test points I suggested were for the original Bally solenoid driver board, it sounds like you have an aftermarket replacement, so test points might not be the same. What board is in this game?
You said you tested fuses with a meter - what DC voltages were you measuring at which fuses?
So I checked the continuity from the block connector to the pins for -300 and plus 300
I had it in my head the 190 came from the red wire In that block too .
Obviously not .
So I will trace that red wire .
Got interrupted .think it’s in the block connector at the other side
The connector in your picture (J3 to SDB?) appears to have corrosion on the pins. Unless the green is reflection, I think you need to repin that connector, and possibly replace the connector body, since it looks like something melted on it at pin 10.
Quoted from Bodypop:Obviously not .
So I will trace that red wire .
Got interrupted .think it’s in the block connector at the other side
+190VDC is grey blue wire color. It is pin 6 of the SDB, coming from pin 5 of the rectifier board (transformer)
So here is the problem .another school boy error .
There’s no 43 at the test point on the replacement rectifier board
Now I’m suspecting the soldering to the rectifier or the power brick .if someone could point me in the right direction please
Or the bridge rectifiers have gone ?
It’s a new board ,I still have the old one and I’m considering trying it back in .
I haven’t went near he power brick as not sure where to take the reading from
Ive went though all the wires I’ve changes from the 20 pin on the rectifier board for continuity .
So at least they are out of the equation completely
There’s a couple of wires cut from solenoids at the solenoid as they were melting
Quoted from Bodypop: There’s no 43 at the test point on the replacement rectifier board
Quoted from Bodypop:Or the bridge rectifiers have gone ?
It’s a new board
Not likely, but lets get a meter on it and test. First we want to see if we have the AC solenoid voltage coming IN to the rectifier board. Check fuse F4 and reinstall it, then set your meter to AC volts. Check for around 49 VAC across the inputs to BR3 or across VR1 on the replacement rectifier board.
I got my Space Invaders in May and it was just like yours, nothing at all worked. I spent 6 months just getting it to come back to life. If you get frustrated please take a break and come back to it. There’s a lot to learn and you will spend many hours chasing gremlins (like you are doing now with the wiring). There is still all the play field issues to deal with once you get it working.
You are doing good work here restoring a classic, have patience and most importantly enjoy the process. If you aren’t enjoying it, take a break and come back when it’s fun again.
Just some hard-earned advice.
Quoted from tenjuna:have patience and most importantly enjoy the process. If you aren’t enjoying it, take a break and come back when it’s fun again.
Just some hard-earned advice.
Good advice for any hobby / interest!
I also made the choice not to involve my hobbies / interests for a career. My work is close to one of my hobbies and keeps my skills sharp, but not exactly my hobby.
Right guys ,I’m back at this
Voltages all good at rectifier board
None on aux board (haven’t repinned it yet )
190 missing from solenoid driver board
Boards all previously checked out (unless I’ve done damage )
New rectifier ,sd board and mpu all in place
Problems
Flippers on all the time when button Pressed
No flashing lights
No sound
Trying to boot ,but not
Systematically.
Test rectifier board. Check, you've done this.
Move to SDB board. Check that proper voltages are actually getting to the SDB board. Check output voltages at the board....all good?
Move to CPU board. Check 5VDC logic voltages get there, and make it to the ICs and the game boots up.
...and so on. Leave periphery boards like sound and lamp boards until later in the process, after getting game up and running and playing.
You've got a lot of new boards, so like you said - as long as you have not damaged them probably 95% of this is going to be wiring and repinning. You just can't get away from it.
Quoted from Bodypop:Thanks mate
It’s booting
Yes connectors
Still no 190v at the sd board
And those flippers are still live before game is started
It’s not throwing the ball out either
But getting there
Take one thing at a time. No high voltage at the SDB board: first check is to make sure the HV from the rectifier board is making it on to the SDB board input. The common problem is the SDB high voltage section need to be rebuilt on older boards. If you replaced this board, that is probably not the problem.
The flippers live before game is started: check flippers relay. This should be off and engage only when a game is started.
For the kicker that throws a ball out of the trough, run a solenoid test and a switch test to check if the trough kickout and switches work or not.
Brilliant thanks again
Is the relay the orange block in photo .
I just found the hv problem,the thing bit me .ouch .at the block connector
Not turned off long enough I suppose .
Enough to put me off for tonight lol
I had messed before with the kick out solenoid ,so quite sure it will be my fault
image (resized).jpgSo I slight step forward ,we’ll sort of
It’s blowing the fuse in rectifier
Fuse 4
So I assume that’s why solenoids aren’t working (would this cause the 190 to be missing too ?
I’ve been through the connectors ,so maybe the solenoids causing this now ?
It’s a bit of a mess underneath too
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Bodypop:So I slight step forward ,we’ll sort of
It’s blowing the fuse in rectifier
Fuse 4
So I assume that’s why solenoids aren’t working (would this cause the 190 to be missing too ?
I’ve been through the connectors ,so maybe the solenoids causing this now ?
It’s a bit of a mess underneath too [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
F4, yes it is for the solenoids only. The high voltage is rectifier fuse F2 (about 230VDC, gets converted to 190VDC on the SDB and protected there by a 3/16 amp fuse)
For the displays, check to see if 230VDC making it to the SDB TP4.
For the solenoids, check if any are stuck on. Don't forget to check the knocker in the cabinet. These are often fried. Check all the driver transistors. You said this is a new board, correct? If something was stuck on the playfield, you may have already blown a transistor on the board, which would give you a clue as to which switch/coil is a problem.
Oh, and the mess....it's a normal pinball mess, I've seen them all the time 
This really is mad !
I started to remove solenoid wires from the rotten dog replacement sd board
I thought ,while I’m at it ,il take it out and check transistors .
I’ll have to double check I’m doing it right
i decided put the old sd board back In and see what happens ,at least it will tell me if connectors are good
So I’ve got the hv on it ,ive worked out the right flipper and left slingshot at least are causing trouble
Flippers wernt permanently live
It didn’t blow fuse ,until I hit the right flipper
(Fuse four on the rectifier) I had a smaller than normal fuse in it for time being
So ,now I know my connectors are good
It’s booting
Game is starting with sequenced lights on playfield
43 v is there for solenoids
190 (well 230 )is there for the scoreboards ,all be it they look a bit messed up
So il get another look soon ,sort the solenoid issue hopefully
I have a burnt track on the sd board too
I put a pic of it up
Sound and gi lights missing .but I’m surely getting there
Not sure what’s Happening with the replacement boards
So getting slightly closer ,I have all solenoids bar , 1,2 , 4 and 11
4 is cut at the min ,as it wasn’t happy
So leaves me with the flippers .
Strange thing is if I press the flipper buttons when they are on test mode they will work once .
I have been messing with the flippers as you can see by the soldering
At least if I know if the right wire is going to the right place it would be a starter and maybe where they are powering from
Could any of you kind people who are still with me on this ,tell me if the wiring is correct on flippers and Outhole .
2E8491DD-8AA5-47D0-B8D6-6EF67EC2DDCF (resized).jpeg47A695BC-6A59-4FE2-A170-1E484F220D1D (resized).jpeg4CB7936A-9AB6-400D-A258-25DF86AC26B7 (resized).jpeg86A43140-B75F-4317-A502-FFA5562B776D (resized).jpegE8E350CF-06DA-4917-A786-74436DEF64EA (resized).jpegDon't take it personal, but the soldering work in the pictures is not very good. You have also melted insulation on several wires (see orange wire in photographs). I suggest first you learn to solder correctly before you continue working on the electronics.
I agree ,time to let it go .
Been chasing my tail with it for a while ,between connectors and new boards not working
Importing all the missing parts ,like lock down bar ,coin door ,playfield parts .legs etc
Everything that could be messed with ,was messed with previously
465D7C10-C71A-44C6-9D15-A89C58F45F6D (resized).jpegF02A47E4-EECB-4B3D-85C0-3A9E45030B0E (resized).jpeg 1 year later
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