(Topic ID: 228591)

Space Invaders blowing F4 after flipper rebuild

By tenjuna

5 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by BigAl56
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#1 5 years ago

I have a Space Invaders that I recently brought back to life. All new Alltek and weebly boards. All new connectors and all repinned. Game has been working great, been playing it for the last 5 days with no issues.

I ordered flipper kits from Big Daddy to try and restore some pop to them...rebuilt the lower right one tonight, rewired using photos I took beforehand to make sure I got it right. Put it all back together and turned on game, got about 6 flips in and F4 blows. The flipper definitely had a nice pop to it, but I am at a loss as to why the fuse would blow now? The kit I got only had one part of the switch, which I assume to be the EOS switch, the other part of the switch still has the old leaf on it. As far as I can tell the switch is adjusted to work the same as all the others, with a 1/8" gap when there should be a gap.

I messaged vid because he made the awesome flipper rebuild guide that I used to help me prepare for this, but thought I should post here as well. I have attached some pics, but the lighting isn't that great. I was trying to show the gaps before and after, along with a view of the assembly. I was in the middle of desoldering wires so the solder work will not look right, I did make very sure that there were good connections everywhere

Can anyone think of anything I may have missed? I think either I need the right switch(es) or I have missed something obvious.

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#2 5 years ago

Hmm after looking at these pics on this post, it just occurred to me in my haste to test the rebuild I have no shaft/flipper in the top right. I have a bad feeling that was what I missed. /facepalm

#3 5 years ago

Haha, good eye! Think you found the culprit!

Given that haste you mentioned, I'd look over the rest of the flipper mechs to make sure everything else is looking good while you're in there.

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Haha, good eye! Think you found the culprit!
Given that haste you mentioned, I'd look over the rest of the flipper mechs to make sure everything else is looking good while you're in there.

Thanks...I am actually going to rebuild all four flippers. The only reason that shaft was pulled out on the top is because the game came to me with 3" flippers on all four, and I am putting the top ones back to 2" flippers. It simply didn't occur to me that I would need them in there for the solenoids to not overload. Lol can you tell I am new to pinball repair?

#5 5 years ago

Gotta start somewhere! At least you're getting in there and trying to learn. I've probably learned a lot more about how the games work *because* of the mistakes I've made!

At least it looks like you figured it out though, and hopefully didn't do any further harm than blow a fuse.

Have you replaced the cabinet flipper switches as well? You'll probably want to replace those other old EOS switches in there too, though I'm not sure what part # for them.

I see you mentioned all new boards, but just to be sure does that also include a new rectifier board and connectors to it?

P.S. thank you for getting those 2" flippers back on there--3" flippers!?! that's sacrilege! seriously though, that would have been the first thing i did, lol

#6 5 years ago

Another thing i noticed: it looks like there's a diode on the end of stroke switch on the flipper mech pictured below. It looks like that might be an incorrect switch (possibly a gold plated contacts where it should be high-current tungsten contacts) and the diode shouldn't be there at all. There's diodes on the flipper coils, but not on the end of stroke switches. You may want to post some more pics of that flipper mech so we can get a better look at what you've got.

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#7 5 years ago

I was kinda wondering why those were on there myself. I would like to simply replace the entire switch, if I could just figure out the part number for them.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Gotta start somewhere! At least you're getting in there and trying to learn. I've probably learned a lot more about how the games work *because* of the mistakes I've made!
At least it looks like you figured it out though, and hopefully didn't do any further harm than blow a fuse.
Have you replaced the cabinet flipper switches as well? You'll probably want to replace those other old EOS switches in there too, though I'm not sure what part # for them.
I see you mentioned all new boards, but just to be sure does that also include a new rectifier board and connectors to it?
P.S. thank you for getting those 2" flippers back on there--3" flippers!?! that's sacrilege! seriously though, that would have been the first thing i did, lol

Oh and yes, new rectifier board and connectors, that was the very first thing I did. I did notice though that the fuses that came on that new board are mostly the wrong ones *sigh* so I am kinda glad this happened so I could fix that oversight.

If by flipper switches you mean the buttons and switches for those, yes. If you mean the stroke switches no I am still trying to find part numbers to replace them entirely.

Totally agree re: sacrilege, I was like why even bother doing that it's not like 2" bats are hard to find ugh.

#9 5 years ago

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A365-00046-0000

This seems to match what is on the top flipper assembly, but does not look at all like the one on the bottom. Would/could I use this switch for all 4? That would take out all uncertainty of the switches for me.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from tenjuna:

I was kinda wondering why those were on there myself. I would like to simply replace the entire switch, if I could just figure out the part number for them.

Now that I have had some coffee and time to think about this a bit more, thinking of the bottom set of switches, the second part of the switch stack is what activates the top flippers. Wouldn't the top flippers need the diode to prevent feedback into the wiring or something? I am trying to think through this logically, again understanding I am new to pinball repair. I just don't want to pull these diodes out and have my apartment go up in a mushroom cloud

#11 5 years ago

Looking at other Space Invaders pictures it appears that diode is there as well.

http://www.gandalf.net/gamesforsale070108/Space%20Invaders%20Pinball/DSC03186.JPG

#12 5 years ago

My mistake! Diode *does* belong there. So sorry about that, i was thinking of another game and didn't see it on the schematic!

Really sorry to mislead you like that--I'll step back and let some of the other guys here help out. I don't want to see your apt go up in a cloud of smoke either

Anyways, here's a good link that explains Bally flippers: http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/bally_flipper1.htm

Good luck, man! You'll get this all sorted out.

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

My mistake! Diode *does* belong there. So sorry about that, i was thinking of another game and didn't see it on the schematic!
Really sorry to mislead you like that--I'll step back and let some of the other guys here help out. I don't want to see your apt go up in a cloud of smoke either
Anyways, here's a good link that explains Bally flippers: http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/bally_flipper1.htm
Good luck, man! You'll get this all sorted out.

No worries, I do appreciate the help, really. I wasn't going to remove the diode after seeing that pic and wouldn't have without getting confirmation elsewhere so no harm done.

In good news, I found some 5A fuses to put in F4, rebuilt that top flipper, and I am back in business. Thankfully it was an easy fix, and hey I learned something new today.

Thanks again, and on to the next problem lol.

#14 5 years ago

As an aside to this since it came up during the thread, and in case someone finds this in the future. The reason the diodes are there are for the low power EOS switches on the upper flippers that make the firing sound when you press the flipper button. I do not know if they need_ to be there, but on my game the left one had no diode and wouldn't make the sound. The right one has the diode and the sound works. I think most people turn that sound off, but I intend to replace the entire switch stack with the diode in place.

#15 5 years ago

Ten wins the prize! The extra low power switches on the flippers is to make the firing sound when the flipper flips. The reason there is a diode is because it's always a good idea to have a diode in series with a matrix switch.

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