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(Topic ID: 163266)

Space invaders


By wierdeer

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 60 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by wierdeer
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 60 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 4 years ago

Just scored a bally space invaders. Pick it up later today. (will post pics then.)It lights up, no sound, no displays, and is dirty as can be.
I will check all the usual suspects fuses,and conectors
Loose wires
Corrosion

But I'm wondering if there is any game specific or Bally specific things I should be looking for?
This machine looks super cool! Art package is literally out of this world. the history it has is kinda neat too.
This thing has been sitting in a garage for a long time. Right next to a really dirty but really nice looking star treck I'd like to get my hands on lol. other than the dirt and yellowed plastics it looks pretty nice. This is my first Bally so should be fun!

#2 4 years ago

First thing, check the fuses on the power board. Pull them and check with meter.

If ok, check the voltages at all the test points with a meter.

You can get the voltages from either Pinwiki or Clays Guides (if you have a copy)

rd

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

First thing, check the fuses on the power board. Pull them and check with meter.
If ok, check the voltages at all the test points with a meter.
You can get the voltages from either Pinwiki or Clays Guides (if you have a copy)
rd

Thanks for the advise!
I looked at pinwiki and can't find a power board.

Rectifier board maybe?

#4 4 years ago

Yes, the rectifier board is where the fuses are. Congrats on the 1st Bally. SI has great artwork.

#5 4 years ago

I go through Clays guides systematically, SI is the last game I worked on. These are generally the first things I do on these early Ballys

* rebuild rectifier board, check and replace fuses and fuse clips as needed, repin connectors, add specific mods to improve reliability. Check all voltages for spec.
* replace filter cap on SDB board, repin connectors, add specific mods to improve reliability, check display and +5VDC logic for spec and AC ripple.
* cut off and replace NiCad battery and replace with memory capacitor, NVRAM, or offboard battery holder.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from wierdeer:

Thanks for the advise!
I looked at pinwiki and can't find a power board.
Rectifier board maybe?

Yep.

Check the molex connectors there too. Really prone to failure.

rd

#7 4 years ago

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#8 4 years ago

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#9 4 years ago

Lol what's the best way to pick lock on back box?

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from wierdeer:

Lol what's the best way to pick lock on back box?

Lock picking videos on YouTube or drill out and replace.

Nice looking SI BTW... It either has very little play or the Mylar got down early before the wear started. Mine has a little wear, then it was Mylar'd over back in the day... Nice pick up!

If you need them, CPR has the SI plastics set that has the topper in stock.
http://www.classicplayfields.com/store-plastics.html - 4th listing down the page
And a repro SI playfield is due in the near future, but it looks like you won't need one.

-Steve

#11 4 years ago

Looks great! Have you checked everywhere in the cab for keys?

My most recent find had 'Sorry no key for the backbox'. When I got there I found the key had been snapped off IN the lock, so with a screwdriver I could turn the cylinder easily!
Have fun.

#12 4 years ago

Congrats on the SI! I would look for battery acid damage first as the problem. Mine had sat forever, like yours, and the batteries had killed the board. Alltek makes a new board that is pretty much plug and play for $199 and has a built in battery. http://www.allteksystems.com/products-mpu-replacements.html#mpu

Your playfield looks nice. Most of these were played to death and have wood showing in places on the playfield.

The 44 bulbs usually melted and warped the plastics on this game. CPR did a run of these plastics for $145 that probably would be worth looking in to for you. It also gives you a cool topper! http://www.classicplayfields.com/store-plastics.html

LEDS look great in this game--in my humble opinion. I also placed an LED strip in the ball trough to brighten up the playfield. Worked good! Good luck!

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#13 4 years ago

Thank for the info guys I'm having fun tearing into this gotta get back box open....also paid 350 I think I got a good deal

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from Fourbyracer:

Your playfield looks nice. Most of these were played to death and have wood showing in places on the playfield.

It sat unplayed for 20 years

#15 4 years ago

Is the key hanging inside the coin door?

Look for a little hook.

rd

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Is the key hanging inside the coin door?
Look for a little hook.
rd

Naw no key I will watch some you tube lol picking videos... Would still it but don't want to hurt anything

#17 4 years ago

I bet this has something to do with it not running rite lol

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#18 4 years ago

Two connecters burnt and broke...wires soldered to pins

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#19 4 years ago

That board is not worth the chances when Rottendog is so cheap. Replace connectors and play it!!!
Mike

#20 4 years ago

And acid damage

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#21 4 years ago

Hmmm,try to save OR Rottendog?
I went with new on mine as like yours it's a keeper.
Mike

#22 4 years ago

How much are rotten dog mpu?

#23 4 years ago

199--Shipped,just gotta think from who,he's on pinside
Mike

#24 4 years ago

Hmmm I'm new here so I'm drawing a blank....

#25 4 years ago

Found the box mine was in, got it from michiganpinball.com

Mike

#26 4 years ago

Thanks.... Seriously the playfield just needed a good scrubbing. Few coats of wax and this thing is ready to roll.

Back glass perfect!

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#28 4 years ago

You got a sweet deal, so you got a little dough in reserve, you may as well get all new gear and it'll go forever.

Get the Alltek combo kit, new MPU, lamp board, and solenoid board.

And get a new recifier board.

You can get it all from Ks Arcade, they are good guys.

https://ksarcade.net

rd

#29 4 years ago

What does this title sell for in good condition?

#30 4 years ago

Here's a nice guide by vid1900 on repairing and bulletproofing the various boards, if you hadn't already found it: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

The alkaline damage doesn't seem to have affected any major parts, I think that's repairable

#31 4 years ago

I would get the Alltek mpu and rebuild the connectors on the rectifier board. I like to have new circuit boards as well but if you replace all of them you are going to have a lot of money tied up in the game. And repairing the game is as much fun as playing them. Looks like you got a good deal on a cool game. Make sure you get a manual and and schematic . The early Bally solid state games are relatively easy to work on as well. Enjoy it.

#32 4 years ago

Nice buy! That thing is super clean and looks great!

If you are new to boardwork, I would go at a minimum with a new rectifier board. That one had been hacked to death. Doing the connectors for it isn't too bad and Great Plains sells a terrific replacement when they're in stock. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=135-105 Only $60

The Ballys would have the back box key on a hook in the corner left of the coin box. If it was stood up, it may be deep down in the box under one of the cross members.

Have fun with it! The one I have will never leave my house. One of my "grail" games!

#33 4 years ago
Quoted from koen12344:

The alkaline damage doesn't seem to have affected any major parts, I think that's repairable

You really think this is repairable?

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#34 4 years ago

My SI rectifier board looked like that. My suggestion is a rotten dog board. After fiddling and swearing a bunch, that solved a lot of my problems.

#35 4 years ago

I've seen worse get repaired, it depends on how much time you want to put into it. Step one is to get that battery off and then neutralize the acid. There is a ton of contradicting info out there on how to and how well it works. I won't even delve into that. If you look at your second picture, that is where the most grievous damage normally occurs. At a minimum, all of the components will have to be replaced after extensive clean up. This is the 5v regulator section vital to starting the MPU. If you look at the traces around TP3 you will see you got your work cut out. Myself, I would go for it. I have time and the components are inexpensive. Chances are you'll put some hours into it and in the end it still won't work. Keep that in mind. If you do decide to try, here's a good kit to start with.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY35-BA-KIT

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from wierdeer:

You really think this is repairable?

I hadn't seen the damage on tge bottom left part of the board

#38 4 years ago

I've repaired a few corrosion damage Bally's. Usually around 20-25 components over a good 3 or 4 hrs....but I would pass on repairing that one.

#39 4 years ago

Yeah I will probably just buy boards lol.

#40 4 years ago

The other thing we did to our SI was change all the connectors. Because the corrosion was so bad, it made its way into the pins. That solved 99% of the issues we were having.

#41 4 years ago

Pinballlife sells the Alltek boards too.

#42 4 years ago
Quoted from gregh:

The other thing we did to our SI was change all the connectors. Because the corrosion was so bad, it made its way into the pins. That solved 99% of the issues we were having.

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna have to do same thing. didn't feel rite when I unplugged them from mpu

#43 4 years ago

Gritty...is how I would describe how the felt.

#44 4 years ago

Yah, I would say the same about ours.

#45 4 years ago

Pretty sure this green button isn't origanal

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#46 4 years ago
Quoted from wierdeer:

Pretty sure this green button isn't origanal

Nope, shouldnt be anything on the wood but the graphics.

#47 4 years ago

Most likely to add credits
Mike

#48 4 years ago
Quoted from Fourbyracer:

Nope, shouldnt be anything on the wood but the graphics.

Looks like it's a credit button someone added

#49 4 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

Most likely to add credits
Mike

Jinx

#50 4 years ago

Lol

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There are 60 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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