First thing, check the fuses on the power board. Pull them and check with meter.

If ok, check the voltages at all the test points with a meter.

You can get the voltages from either Pinwiki or Clays Guides (if you have a copy)

rd

Yes, the rectifier board is where the fuses are. Congrats on the 1st Bally. SI has great artwork.

I go through Clays guides systematically, SI is the last game I worked on. These are generally the first things I do on these early Ballys

* rebuild rectifier board, check and replace fuses and fuse clips as needed, repin connectors, add specific mods to improve reliability. Check all voltages for spec.
* replace filter cap on SDB board, repin connectors, add specific mods to improve reliability, check display and +5VDC logic for spec and AC ripple.
* cut off and replace NiCad battery and replace with memory capacitor, NVRAM, or offboard battery holder.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm

Yep.

Check the molex connectors there too. Really prone to failure.

rd

Lock picking videos on YouTube or drill out and replace.

Nice looking SI BTW... It either has very little play or the Mylar got down early before the wear started. Mine has a little wear, then it was Mylar'd over back in the day... Nice pick up!

If you need them, CPR has the SI plastics set that has the topper in stock.
http://www.classicplayfields.com/store-plastics.html - 4th listing down the page
And a repro SI playfield is due in the near future, but it looks like you won't need one.

-Steve

Looks great! Have you checked everywhere in the cab for keys?

My most recent find had 'Sorry no key for the backbox'. When I got there I found the key had been snapped off IN the lock, so with a screwdriver I could turn the cylinder easily!
Have fun.

Congrats on the SI! I would look for battery acid damage first as the problem. Mine had sat forever, like yours, and the batteries had killed the board. Alltek makes a new board that is pretty much plug and play for $199 and has a built in battery. http://www.allteksystems.com/products-mpu-replacements.html#mpu

Your playfield looks nice. Most of these were played to death and have wood showing in places on the playfield.

The 44 bulbs usually melted and warped the plastics on this game. CPR did a run of these plastics for $145 that probably would be worth looking in to for you. It also gives you a cool topper! http://www.classicplayfields.com/store-plastics.html

LEDS look great in this game--in my humble opinion. I also placed an LED strip in the ball trough to brighten up the playfield. Worked good! Good luck!

si_led_strip_(resized).jpg

Is the key hanging inside the coin door?

Look for a little hook.

rd

That board is not worth the chances when Rottendog is so cheap. Replace connectors and play it!!!
Mike

Hmmm,try to save OR Rottendog?
I went with new on mine as like yours it's a keeper.
Mike

199--Shipped,just gotta think from who,he's on pinside
Mike

Found the box mine was in, got it from michiganpinball.com

Mike

You got a sweet deal, so you got a little dough in reserve, you may as well get all new gear and it'll go forever.

Get the Alltek combo kit, new MPU, lamp board, and solenoid board.

And get a new recifier board.

You can get it all from Ks Arcade, they are good guys.

https://ksarcade.net

rd

Here's a nice guide by vid1900 on repairing and bulletproofing the various boards, if you hadn't already found it: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

The alkaline damage doesn't seem to have affected any major parts, I think that's repairable

I would get the Alltek mpu and rebuild the connectors on the rectifier board. I like to have new circuit boards as well but if you replace all of them you are going to have a lot of money tied up in the game. And repairing the game is as much fun as playing them. Looks like you got a good deal on a cool game. Make sure you get a manual and and schematic . The early Bally solid state games are relatively easy to work on as well. Enjoy it.

Nice buy! That thing is super clean and looks great!

If you are new to boardwork, I would go at a minimum with a new rectifier board. That one had been hacked to death. Doing the connectors for it isn't too bad and Great Plains sells a terrific replacement when they're in stock. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=135-105 Only $60

The Ballys would have the back box key on a hook in the corner left of the coin box. If it was stood up, it may be deep down in the box under one of the cross members.

Have fun with it! The one I have will never leave my house. One of my "grail" games!

My SI rectifier board looked like that. My suggestion is a rotten dog board. After fiddling and swearing a bunch, that solved a lot of my problems.

I've seen worse get repaired, it depends on how much time you want to put into it. Step one is to get that battery off and then neutralize the acid. There is a ton of contradicting info out there on how to and how well it works. I won't even delve into that. If you look at your second picture, that is where the most grievous damage normally occurs. At a minimum, all of the components will have to be replaced after extensive clean up. This is the 5v regulator section vital to starting the MPU. If you look at the traces around TP3 you will see you got your work cut out. Myself, I would go for it. I have time and the components are inexpensive. Chances are you'll put some hours into it and in the end it still won't work. Keep that in mind. If you do decide to try, here's a good kit to start with.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY35-BA-KIT

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/

I hadn't seen the damage on tge bottom left part of the board

I've repaired a few corrosion damage Bally's. Usually around 20-25 components over a good 3 or 4 hrs....but I would pass on repairing that one.

The other thing we did to our SI was change all the connectors. Because the corrosion was so bad, it made its way into the pins. That solved 99% of the issues we were having.

Pinballlife sells the Alltek boards too.

Yah, I would say the same about ours.

Nope, shouldnt be anything on the wood but the graphics.

Most likely to add credits
Mike

Lol