Space Hawks Display

Goodmorning everyone

And I haven't written for a while...I finally finished the restoration of the space hawks thanks to your help...I'm just missing a few less important but annoying things...

I'm trying to fix displays that are missing some numbers...
Out of 5 displays, only 1 is complete..
All the others are missing a digit (all different).

I have already proceeded to replace resistors and transistors (F2N5401-EBC and MPSA42S6C) as a guide...

I put the video link to explain better..:

the red light and a bulb test ^^
I apologize for my not perfect English

Thank you all

#2 1 year ago

RIK

Rikoshay

Pinside member

9y 46,900 1,499 1

check the connector underside for any dry solder joins.

the lack of digit may be the digit drive transistor itself being the 2N5401's.

#3 1 year ago

???

Alessio88

Inactive member

Quoted from Rikoshay:
check the connector underside for any dry solder joins.
the lack of digit may be the digit drive transistor itself being the 2N5401's.

Thanks for the reply
the welds have all been reworked ... I don't know what else to look at ...

#4 1 year ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

Post some clear pictures top and bottom of the faulty displays.

#5 1 year ago

???

Alessio88

Inactive member

Quoted from Quench:
Post some clear pictures top and bottom of the faulty displays.

Quench how nice to hear from you...hope all is well...
I post the photos in detail of the displays:

In the first two picture missing the 2 digit...
the third and fourth picture missing 3 digit
The fifth and sixth picture missing 6 digit

I also take this opportunity to ask for advice on the 3 targets in the photo....they are the only ones that don't work.....could it be a problem with the MPU settings??

Thank you all

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#6 1 year ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Alessio88:
Quench how nice to hear from you...hope all is well...

Ahh Allesio, I had to check the post history and now remember we worked on this game a year ago. Did you fix all the coin door wiring? Oh, hope all is well on your side too!

Regarding the three standup targets, do they work in switch test mode? Can you post some clear pictures showing how these three switches are wired?
These three switches and also the four drop targets are all on that same switch strobe #2 signal - are the four drop targets working?

Regarding the displays, can you take photos of the bottom (solder) side of the display boards outside during daylight (but not in direct sun)? The photos above are not clear enough for me to see detail because of the camera flash reflections.

#7 1 year ago

???

Alessio88

Inactive member

Quoted from Quench:
Ahh Allesio, ho dovuto controllare la cronologia dei post e ora ricordo che abbiamo lavorato a questo gioco un anno fa. Hai riparato tutto il cablaggio della porta monete? Oh, spero che tutto vada bene anche dalla tua parte!
Per quanto riguarda i tre bersagli in piedi, funzionano in modalità switch test? Puoi pubblicare alcune immagini chiare che mostrano come sono cablati questi tre interruttori?
Questi tre interruttori e anche i quattro bersagli di caduta sono tutti sullo stesso segnale stroboscopico dell'interruttore n. 2: i quattro bersagli di caduta funzionano?
Per quanto riguarda i display, puoi scattare foto del lato inferiore (saldato) dei tabelloni all'esterno durante il giorno (ma non alla luce diretta del sole)? Le foto di cui sopra non sono abbastanza chiare da consentirmi di vedere i dettagli a causa dei riflessi del flash della fotocamera.

Yes everything is fine....
Then I have to send you a gift for the help ^^
The internal wiring is fixed....
I have difficulty taking the images in the sunlight ... I took others without a flash ...

You're right, not even the contacts of the 4 targets work....only the solenoid that lifts them works...Photo with the contacts (sorry for the quality but it's difficult to take pictures below)
I checked with the mpu 5 test (contacts)....they don't even work

I look forward to good news
Thanks

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#8 1 year ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Alessio88:
You're right, not even the contacts of the 4 targets work....only the solenoid that lifts them works...Photo with the contacts (sorry for the quality but it's difficult to take pictures below)
I checked with the mpu 5 test (contacts)....they don't even work

The four drop targets and three standup targets are all on the same switch strobe #2 signal from the MPU board. Check your connection at pin 3 of the J2 connector at the MPU board. It's the white-yellow or yellow-white wire, I can't clearly tell.

It's still hard to see the soldering detail in the display pictures.
The display with digit 2 missing, check the soldering on resistor R3, one leg looks like it's not soldered properly.
The display with digit 3 missing, check the soldering on resistor R5, again one leg looks like it's not soldered properly.
The display with digit 6 missing, check the soldering on resistor R11, again one leg looks like it's not soldered properly.

Looks like the replacement 100k resistors may have had dirty legs causing the solder not to attach.

SpaceHawks_Display_NoD2_mod.jpg
SpaceHawks_Display_NoD3_mod.jpg
SpaceHawks_Display_NoD6_mod.jpg

#9 1 year ago

???

Alessio88

Inactive member

Quoted from Quench:
The four drop targets and three standup targets are all on the same switch strobe #2 signal from the MPU board. Check your connection at pin 3 of the J2 connector at the MPU board. It's the white-yellow or yellow-white wire, I can't clearly tell.
It's still hard to see the soldering detail in the display pictures.
The display with digit 2 missing, check the soldering on resistor R3, one leg looks like it's not soldered properly.
The display with digit 3 missing, check the soldering on resistor R5, again one leg looks like it's not soldered properly.
The display with digit 6 missing, check the soldering on resistor R11, again one leg looks like it's not soldered properly.
Looks like the replacement 100k resistors may have had dirty legs causing the solder not to attach.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Quench your thirst from today I will call you Santa Claus....^^
see all the displays lit and how to receive a royal as a child

you managed from a photo to see what I have not seen live ^^
I checked the cable pin 3 of the j2 ... the signal arrives up to the contacts .... so the wire is healthy both on the 4 targets and the 3 targets ..... The mpu as you know is new ... do i need to check???
From the check also the left side ball outlet contact does not work....

finished this last step the pinball machine is finished

Many Thanks

#10 1 year ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Alessio88:
see all the displays lit and how to receive a royal as a child

Was there supposed to be an attached picture showing all the displays working?

OP
Quoted from Alessio88:
3 targets ..... The mpu as you know is new ... do i need to check???
From the check also the left side ball outlet contact does not work....

With the machine OFF, measure the resistance between the white-yellow switch wire and ground. It should be around 56k ohms.

#11 1 year ago

???

Alessio88

Inactive member

Quoted from Quench:
Doveva esserci un'immagine allegata che mostrava tutti i display funzionanti?

A macchina spenta misurare la resistenza tra il filo bianco-giallo dell'interruttore e la massa. Dovrebbe essere di circa 56k ohm.

I'll take the picture right away and post it ^^....
the display off I'm finishing cleaning ^^

I measured from the j2 pin 3 Yellow and White wire but to me from 10Mohm O.o..... Did I do something wrong?
If so can you tell me where to measure
Thanks
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#12 1 year ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Alessio88:
I'll take the picture right away and post it ^^....
the display

Nice work..

OP
Quoted from Alessio88:
I measured from the j2 pin 3 Yellow and White wire but to me from 10Mohm O.o..... Did I do something wrong?
If so can you tell me where to measure

Sorry, I wasn't clear.
J2 must remain connected to the MPU board for the test I was after. Measure at the yellow-white wire on one of the suspect playfield switches. The other multi-meter lead must be on ground somewhere.

Some more tests:
Take off the J2 connector from the MPU board.
Measure the resistance to ground on male pin 3 of J2 on the MPU board - you can use MPU board test point TP4 for the ground reference.
Compare it to the resistance on the male pin 4 of J2 and also pin 2 of J2.
All readings should be about 56k ohms.

#13 1 year ago

???

Alessio88

Inactive member

Quoted from Quench:
Bel lavoro..

Scusa, non sono stato chiaro.
J2 deve rimanere connesso alla scheda MPU per il test che stavo cercando. Misura il filo giallo-bianco su uno degli interruttori sospetti del campo di gioco. L'altro cavo multimetro deve essere a terra da qualche parte.
Alcuni altri test:
togli il connettore J2 dalla scheda MPU.
Misurare la resistenza a terra sul pin maschio 3 di J2 sulla scheda MPU - è possibile utilizzare il punto di test della scheda MPU TP4 per il riferimento di terra.
Confrontalo con la resistenza sul pin 4 maschio di J2 e anche sul pin 2 di J2.
Tutte le letture dovrebbero essere di circa 56k ohm.

I did the tests:
J2 pin 2-3-4: 57K ohm

Verified yellow and white thread on more contacts from me: 23.60M ohm

#14 1 year ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Alessio88:
Verified yellow and white thread on more contacts from me: 23.60M ohm

If the yellow-white wire measures 23.60M ohms at the playfield switch, then you have an open circuit on the wire at the MPU J2 connector. Replace the crimp terminal at J2 pin 3 and/or find where you are losing connection on that wire.

2 weeks later

#15 1 year ago

???

Alessio88

Inactive member