looks very nice so far. any thoughts as to what might be going in the large, open area from the flippers to midway up?
(Topic ID: 197830)
Ponchatoula, LA
necuri?
* nevermind, I see it's Centauri if you go from bottom left, upper playfield, then down the right side.
You know I was just thinking, it would be interesting if you did some sort of ball lock with a swinging door like the yellow eyepiece
That eye piece would be a great outlane ball save, like what Star Wars Premium does. Electric Gate on the right side, with the "We Die" audio if you hit the other outlane.
Quoted from toyotaboy:necuri?
* nevermind, I see it's Centauri if you go from bottom left, upper playfield, then down the right side.
You know I was just thinking, it would be interesting if you did some sort of ball lock with a swinging door like the yellow eyepiece
Quoted from SpaceGhost:lovelycoconuts Hah. Well, it's just 100's of hours of design. I'll most likely drop anything the we design for this machine specifically up on the net for others to hack up and use as they see fit.
You can set the copyright restrictions on thingiverse.
Hmm... Now to find a 3d printer I can afford. Sweet!
200.gifIf anyone is in the market for a great printer, this printer produces fantastic quality.
https://www.banggood.com/Creality-3D-Ender-3-V-slot-Prusa-I3-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220x220x250mm-Printing-Size-p-1278399.html?rmmds=category&cur_warehouse=USA
Toronto, ON
That seems so cheap. If I had, say, $600 to spend is there any benefit in a different model? What's the price cutoff?
I'm most interested in easiest, least likely to screw up and print quality.
Quoted from jwilson:That seems so cheap. If I had, say, $600 to spend is there any benefit in a different model? What's the price cutoff?
I'm most interested in easiest, least likely to screw up and print quality.
$600 gets you a prusa mk2 (which i own) which adds a little speed, and self leveling. an extra $150 gets you much more features on the mk3 but theres like a 3 month backlog.
jwilson
toyotaboy We have 6 of the raise3d printers here and we have 4 of the Creality Ender-3 printers. I have personally, 5 of the Creality CR-10 printers at home. The Raise3d printers do a great job and are workhorse printers. The CR-10s are great for large parts like the ramps and things. The ender-3 produces the same quality of parts as the Raise3d printers.
I'm blown away by the quality of the Ender-3 printers. Really simple machines but really great for the price.
I've got a gen1 I3 that I need retrofit. I used an E3D Lite6 extruder/hot end kit, and it is a champ. My son uses a DaVinci Jr that we got on a deep discount, and it is pretty good for small, simple projects. But the XYZ software kinda sucks for anything more complicated, and you are stuck with using their proprietary filament.
I used 1/8" 6061 Aluminum for the backplane and 8-32 blind rivets inserts. I've never used them before. I should have bought the expensive tool to insert them. 
Quoted from SpaceGhost:I used 1/8" 6061 Aluminum for the backplane and 8-32 blind rivets inserts.
Very nice, threaded rivets, great idea!
Well, I didn't really have much choice. Either I go with thicker heavier material or I go thinner and add threaded inserts.
j_m_ HAHA. Me either. I just don't have enough time to fix it right now. My left eye twitches when I look at this thing. We've been working from 6am to about 10pm every night this week so I just haven't been able to get much done on this machine and it's freaking me out.
Quoted from SpaceGhost:jwilson toyotaboy We have 6 of the raise3d printers here and we have 4 of the Creality Ender-3 printers. I have personally, 5 of the Creality CR-10 printers at home. The Raise3d printers do a great job and are workhorse printers. The CR-10s are great for large parts like the ramps and things. The ender-3 produces the same quality of parts as the Raise3d printers.
I'm blown away by the quality of the Ender-3 printers. Really simple machines but really great for the price.
fk I want a cr10.
I bought a Ender 3. I am looking into extending the work area, I saw a video about a cr10 with 1000mm extrusions LOL
I may do the 500mm extrusions on the z axis on my ender 3, so I can atleast print taller, but my x bar putting my z axis out of wack
I know this is a bit off topic, but could you please share your ender 3 CURA profile settings file with me... I am all over the place with them.
I did just work out a 80mm/sec print speed running 215c solutech pla. I have 50x50x15 blowers, and buck converters coming tomorrow so I can setup octoprint, camera, and some led lights on it.
I got a warped heat bed, so I am waiting to find out what amazon is going to do to fix it... The x bar is also binding, I may have to take it apart tomorrow and readjust and them reassemble it. if nothing else... I may return and just get a CR-10, as at least those can be incrementally upgraded to larger print area, as well as dual extrusions.
latest test https://klovimg.com/images/2018/07/10/20180710_062244.md.jpg
I need to see if jetting off to CAX over my wife’s birthday would be a bad idea or not... I would love to play this game and meet everyone in person. The game is looking so great! Everyone has done such great work!
Aaron
FAST Pinball
The majority of the hard work is done at this point. There are several things that we are working on that will not be ready for CAX unfortunately. The new main panel was wired by @time. Did a really great job.
I ended up crimping every wire with a molex pin. Holy crap my hand is sore.
Quoted from SpaceGhost:The majority of the hard work is done at this point.
ROFLMAO
Quoted from SpaceGhost:I ended up crimping every wire with a molex pin. Holy crap my hand is sore.
crimping pins always sucks. even with a good crimper if you have a do a lot of them
rosh What?
j_m_ Yep. I have a Mac Tool crimper that is fantastic but.... It's manual. Totally sucks when you crimp twice on 300+ pins
mcbPalisade LOL. How'd you guess! Used to work for an automation controls company for several years designing electrical and doing some ladder logic.
Quoted from SpaceGhost:rosh What?
I find it quite funny that you think you are 'past the majority of the hard work', I think there is plenty of hard work ahead, based on your comment, more than you realize. But I'm sure you will enjoy it just the same.
Quoted from SpaceGhost:rosh Nah. It's ALL smooth sailing from here.
Looking forward to checking it out at California Extreme, I'm sure it will be playing great, since you are pass the hard part. 
those cabinet joints look a bit too solid. how come you're not building it like the awesome stern cabinets, we've come to love and hate?
interesting corner braces used there while everything sets up
Those are called Miter Clamps. They are designed, specifically, to hold corners together while gluing is in process or even just for nailing.
https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Miter-Assortment-Pliers-25-Piece/dp/B0763ZZTP9/ref=sr_1_2_sspa
they don't mar up the wood?
nevermind, reading the description on amazon.com I see that they do pierce the wood, so they are areas that you have to fill and sand afterwards
Quoted from SpaceGhost:Those are called Miter Clamps. They are designed, specifically, to hold corners together while gluing is in process or even just for nailing
These are handy too for corners, won't mar up the surface if you use a thin piece of metal:
https://www.amazon.com/Degree-Corner-Capacity-Clamps-Woodworking/dp/B078JZDFZ6/ref=sr_1_59
The lock miter is a bit of a trick to get right without a good setup. You definitely need a router table to make these cuts properly. One cut is done with the board flat on the router table. The joining piece is cut while standing on end. You router needs a gate / wall.
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