Solutions:

GI lights out: U205 (not sending clock to u206) & U206 (stuck low on RLYDRV line) on driver board bad, D229 (seperates relay driver line from u206 from 20v from bridge rectifier) just before relay bad also. All three replaced.

DMD out: display power supply pcb, mje15031 was shorted, C2 was shorted open and buldged at top, D6 & D7 were shorted and leaky. Parts replaced, both caps replaced with 220ohm 250v radials (next step up in voltage), all solder joints reflowed, and CN1 & CN2 header pins inspected and reflowed.

Trough up kicked stuck on: transistor Q1 tested bad shorted, replaced, All transistors, diodes, and resistors checked on driver board at this time, Q31 found bad and replaced. (Spare relay ordered, and placed in coin box with moisture absorb pack. The relay is now almost 20 years old, and it is my practice to obtain obsolete parts if I can find them.)

----------End of repair solutions----------

Found a Southpark nonplaying. But cpu is running music playfiels lights ect. Cost $550

I found two transistors on the driver board that are bad, and a few parts on the display supply board that need to be replaced.

I got some funky readings from the transformer, but I used negative from the supply side before the transformer to get the readings. These readings were higher than what I was reading on CN1 display power supply IN. I am not getting the correct in...

The GI lights are also out. 6.3v into driver board is present, q200 is good, I am not sure about the 74hct273n. I have to order unless i can pull the one from the cpu switched lights and socket the one for GI for testing ????

It looks like the ice cube relay (now obsolete) is not activating providing power to the GI circuit.

The diode just before the relay tested bad (

UPDATE:3/25/18

So the trough kickout selenoid is stuck ON.
Once the interlock is pulled it immediately pops up and stays lit.
<img src="https://klovimg.com/images/2018/03/25/20180325_212756.md.jpg">

No connectors are burnt, but GI is out completely

3/4A slow blow was popped. All I had was a fast blow immediately popped it

The attract lights work under playfield lights cycle.

Kenny was disconnected.

Right flipper coil sleeve was jacked, replaced and resoldered just wound wires on both flipper coils.

Multiple spots wires just twisted, are now soldered.

The leds on the driver board with the coin door open and interlock (in) so the coils are not energized.

So this is correct, 20v and 50v are disconnected via the kill interlockswitch just inside on left aide of coin door.
[Img]https://klovimg.com/images/2018/03/25/20180325_212934.md.jpg[/img]

Large img driver leds
[url]https://klovimg.com/images/2018/03/25/20180325_212934.jpg[/url]

Hm... It wants to work... I can feel it...

It barely fits in the lineup... But does

UPDATE 3/26/18

PCB List

South Park Stern Modified Whitestar Boards

Power driver board 520-5137-00 REV F
Display Power Supply 520-5138-00
CPU/Sound Board 520-5136-00 REV E

1. Display power supply popping fuse instantly
2. Trough kick out coil locked on
3. All GI is out
4. Multiple connections twisted (Fixed)
5. Right Flipper stuck (Fixed new sleeve)
6. Kenny coil disconnected
7. Missing cartman topper
8. Missing cartman toy
9.center red round insert needs to be reset
10. Mr hankey missing one arm
11. 3 plastics chipped
12. Shooter spring broken
13. Rubber kit needed.
14. T12-20 light out SP2 /A bad ballast

Update:3/26/18. SPECIAL THANKS TO (WIREDOUG) on pinside.

GI relay:

FRL264D024/02CK Relay

What is driving the relay on the driver board for the GI lights???

4-1c rlydrv. Is what the line says... So from the cpu board....

Hmm... Need to trace j15 which should be the lines to signal the relay to kickon

Just saw in yellow pages of 138meg manual page 81-83

[url]https://klovimg.com/images/2018/03/26/Screenshot_2018-03-26-12-46-50.png[/url]

[url]https://klovimg.com/images/2018/03/26/Screenshot_2018-03-26-12-47-31.png[/url]

[url]https://klovimg.com/images/2018/03/26/Screenshot_2018-03-26-12-46-37.png[/url]

So the GI issue could be the U206 data latch 74HCT273 or Q200 2N3904 if the issue is not the relay, and just before the relay. Assuming the 20v line is present for the relay section.

Now the ~6.3vac coming from the transformer goes to J14 on the driverboard then to J15.

Now I had an issue on my Fishtales where that i believe J112 connector was Pinned incorrect that was the issue along with a through hole being bad and the triac not being supplied voltage.

The driver board has writing of "south park" on it... I wonder if the reason I am not finding burnt connectors is due to them having been replaced and the driver board also being replaced, and the tech repinned the incoming power connector wrong...

Will have to start back at the transformer to figure that out...

So those are my thoughts on the GI issue.
-----------------

Now the display power board...

I think something on the board is shorted, I believe it may be the caps... I will call my local shop and check if they have the parts, if not, then I will have to wait on parts from GPE.

I would replace the caps, Q1-Q5, and check the diodes, replace the fuse with a 3/4A slowblow.

---------------

Now the VUK? From the trough... I still have to trace out...

Update:

Will have the 3/4a slowblow fuses and 2 -220uf 250v radial caps at home for me tonight.

The more I read,the more it sounds lie the vuk mosfet....

Anyone else have a take on this? Would be appreciated.

It barely fit....

[Img]https://klovimg.com/images/2018/03/26/20180325_213420.md.jpg[/img]

Testing

Cn1 on power display

Red 5vdc. -5v
Blue 18vdc. -17.7v
Key
Black
White com 110vac. - 50.5
Blk red 110vac. - 37.7
White grn 88vac. - 20.94

Ground strap to dmd used

Measuring from the cn1 connector black ground to either ac or dc gives no read....

If this is right... Something is wrong with either the transformer.... Or the large bundle of wires coming from the transformer.... I will have to check that large bundle tomarrow...

[Img]https://klovimg.com/images/2018/03/27/Screenshot_2018-03-27-07-03-28.md.png[/img]

So measuring from the jumper black going into the transformer and the output wites from the transformer...

I get this....

[Img]https://klovimg.com/images/2018/03/27/Screenshot_2018-03-27-10-50-38.md.png[/img]

Those are the wires that go to CN1... So I should see those voltages on the upper harness...

The fact the transformer is splitting the voltages, leads me to believe there is a wiring issue.

I am going to repin CN1, and do a continuity and wire check on the CN1 wiring, then I will check out the power display pcb.

.I am not getting these voltages to CN1... Im seeing voltage drop... So I may have to pull the loom and check the condition of the wiring...

UPDATE:

Display power supply board

C2 no uF reading open capacitor
C1 190uf reading
Q4- MJE15031pins is shorted
D6/D7 show continuity both ways only measures as .4/.6 ohms both ways

I/O driver board
Q31 -tested bad Tip122 Transistor
Q1 - tested bad 20n10L STP Transistor
D124 - bad
U210 //DS1232 has a broken leg... Investigating if it was factory cut...
D229 1n4004 passing both ways // GI just before relay

GI light Issue:

Q200 tested good
R254 1kohm tested good

I picked up the transistors for the driver board and caps for the display board. But im going to have to wait for parts from GPE. Arcadepartsandrepair does not carry the parts for this job.

------
Those damned MJE15030/01's. Hard to find. And my 31 is shorted. /

Found///(NTE292) equivalency
-------

The relay for the GI circuit is not activating....

I may have a bad 74HCT273 I am trying to see where that 20v line is coming from to test if it is present

I have a bunch of 74ls273n... But that is far off from the HCT... So im going to wait for parts.

///the 74s will work

Screenshot_2018-03-26-08-23-41 (resized).png

Screenshot_2018-03-26-12-46-37 (resized).png

Screenshot_2018-03-26-12-46-50 (resized).png

Screenshot_2018-03-26-12-47-31 (resized).png

Screenshot_2018-03-27-10-50-38 (resized).png

20180326_214058 (resized).jpg

20180325_213420 (resized).jpg

Oh, I also clipped the lead to the trough up kicker, since the Q1 transistor was bad leaving the coil locked on. I will be fixing this tonight.

Once I did that on restart the machine went through a ball search. Balls removed.

Major note, I am not sure if I am measuring the transformer output correctly, which would be a huge hit on the wallet if I have to find a replacement transformer...

It also seems the number 4 pin on DS1232 (u210) is... Gone?

I am not sure yet what the function on that microcontroller ic is....

Update: so pin 6 on the ds 1232 feed to pin 1 on the htc273 so I may just replace those and the q200 ... Shot gun that whole circuit up to the relay and order a spare relay to have on hand.

Should I since I plan on keeping this machine or lettimg my brother buy it, replace the 15KuF@25v caps and bridge rectifiers?3501. Or is that overkill?

I think I will order a set of two bridges and caps as a just in case. Perhaps extra heatsinks for the other bridges as only 2 have them.

One was replaced with an equiv. From radio shack...

3/29/18. Thoughts

I have been staring at these schematics, trying to remember the differences between hct and ls ics... Datasheets thats what i need.

The question is can i use a 74ls273 in place of a hct273

I need to check the datasheets but I believe so..

I believe pin 3 missing on the 1232 is as designed for that revision. Highroller casino shows it clipped.. Earlier revisions show it present like in the south park yellow schematics.

The hct273 ttl compat and 74ls273 ttl, the 74 can be used, it draws more current than the hct and is faster, and can drive more according to the data sheets.

I/O driver board GI lights Issue

U205/74LS138 is sending the clock (pin 12/u205) to u206/74HCT273 (Pin 11/u206) the clear signal (Pin 1/u206) is coming from the DS1232 (pin6/u210). The DS1232/u210 seems to be functioning.

So it really is finding where the 1d (Pin 3/u206) input for u206 source originates to verify, and perhaps using a logic probe on u206 1q (pin 2/u206) to see if it is low... It should be high to be amped by q200 and trigger the relay for the GI. The signal/voltage being the (RLYDRV) for the relay (pin7) to trigger and swap contacts on both poles.

Pin 8 on the relay being the +20v, with a 1n4004 diode blocking the 20v from flowing down the relaydrv line back to the U206/74HCT273...

However I tested that diode/D229 and it was bad passing both ways... So perhaps thats what happened???

I have asked a few techs, but noone has gotten back to me.

Soooo I am going to proceed with this plan of action and see if this is a fix for this GI issue.

I am going to replace d229 with a 1n4007 and socket u206 and try a 74ls273. I will also socket u206 the 74ls138 and try a spare I have on a parts board... Thank goodness for parts boards...

I am ordering some spare parts from marco and GPE, these will be in next week.

I am not a fan of the IDC connectors, however they appear to be working.

I am still not sure why there seems to be voltage drop on the lines to CN1 power in to the display power board... Perhaps I grabbed ground from the wrong spot and the ground strap is not the spot to do it for measuring...

Fingers crossed, but I read the 273's seem to be a fail point on these whitestar boards with voltage being sent back to them via bad transistors.

I am still not sure why the dmd power board took a crap.... Or if the dmd itself is ok... I may take it to a buddys house to test... I believe I have to swap roms also? I really have not looked at it yet.

General Illumination GI lights live once again

Now to get that DMD going, parts come in tuesday night.

I am waiting on the 100v diodes.

I have another I have to check if they are equivalent. //nope not equivilant, 500mw vs 1 watt open air dissipation

---------

I replaced q1 (trough up-kicker) and q31 (F7/flash mr hankey toilet#2), and the game hangs when starting up with applied 50v... But if you open coin door and then close... It starta up normal..... With no dmd I can not see what the error if any says... So I will pull the coil fuses tonight and see what it does... But its basically blind. I checked all coil ohms all good.... Ill have to check all coil diodes tonight as well

20180331_025816 (resized).jpg

Progress today.

New bulbs installed untill the dmd gets fixed, then leds for the playfield.

Parts for the dmd should be here for that tuesday. I will stock more of an assortment of zener diodes in the future. Waiting 5 days for a 60cent part..... Is irritating.

Was able to coin up and have it attempt to start a game. It would not score i believe due to the trough upkicker not functioning at the moment.

I testes with a cheap multimeter and it was giving reading that a lot of diodes were out in coins and under the playfield. I will have to check with my fluke tomarrow, as it would take some time to replace all the diodes that seem to be out.

Here is an updated playfield pic.

20180401_224433 (resized).jpg

Parts for dmd display pcb came in, I will attempt to repair the display power board, if I am unable to repair, a replacement will be ordered friday.

Updated punchlist:

6/18 completed, will be working on #1,#2,#6 tonight.

1. Display power supply popping fuse instantly // bad 31/100v/13v diodes/ bad 3/4a fuse
2. Trough kick out coil locked on ##Transistor /diode replaced
3. All GI is out ##FIXED
4. Multiple connections twisted ##FIXED
5. Right Flipper stuck ##TEMP FIX
6. Kenny coil disconnected
7. Missing cartman topper
8. Missing cartman toy ##THECOON obtained
9.center red round insert needs to be reset
10. Mr hankey missing one arm
11. 3 plastics chipped
12. Shooter springs broken ##FIXED
13. Flipper Rubbers needed. ##FIXED
14. All flasher bulbs needed
15. Fluorescent out need ballast or led replacement// new bulb and starter installed... Still dead.
16. Right flipper bracket has broken screw in plate for coil stop
17. Minor playfield wear on right lane ball drop// will repair/airbrush clear and mylar
18. Toilet targets missing decals

Dmd fixed ... I think lol

Will find out in a few minutes.

20180405_155247 (resized).jpg

Played about 15 games testing the functionality.

New punch list coming soon.

Updated punchlist: 4/5/18

8/18 completed,

1. Display power supply popping fuse instantly // bad 31/100v/13v diodes/ bad 3/4a fuse ##FIXED
2. Trough kick out coil locked on ##Transistor /diode replaced #FIXED
3. All GI is out ##FIXED
4. Multiple connections twisted ##FIXED
5. Right Flipper stuck ##TEMP FIX
6. Kenny coil disconnected #FIXED
7. Missing cartman topper
8. Missing cartman toy ##THECOON obtained
9.center red round insert needs to be reset
10. Mr hankey missing one arm
11. 3 plastics chipped
12. Shooter springs broken ##FIXED
13. Flipper Rubbers needed. ##FIXED
14. All flasher bulbs needed
15. Fluorescent out need ballast or led replacement// new bulb and starter installed... Still dead.
16. Right flipper bracket has broken screw in plate for coil stop
17. Minor playfield wear on right lane ball drop// will repair/airbrush clear and mylar
18. Toilet targets missing decals
19. Rubber kit needed

20180405_190548 (resized).jpg

20180405_190532 (resized).jpg

20180405_181625 (resized).jpg

20180405_163020 (resized).jpg