(Topic ID: 260281)

FIXED! South Park Coils Not Firing After Flipper Repair


By Zenomorp

5 months ago



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  • 7 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Zenomorp
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#1 5 months ago

Greetings all. I have a South Park that was working without issue until Saturday. The right flipper locked on and blew the fuse. Found the diode on the coil broken. Replaced it and it locked on immediately again. Turned power off and found the controlling transistor on the driver board shorted. Replaced it and the flipper is back to flipping again. Unfortunately, something else inexplicable occurred as a result of the flipper locking on. I've lost power to half of the coils. 2 of the 3 pop bumpers, the Cartman VUK, the auto launcher, and Kenny's left movement coil do not fire. All of the switches test good. As a coincidence, all these coils share the same ground. What's even more odd is that all 3 pop bumpers have the same ground but only 1 of them fire. I rang all the wires from the coils to the driver board for continuity with the connectors disconnected from the driver board. All good. I tested every transistor, every fuse, every testable component on the driver board. No joy. I even swapped the driver board with the one from my Austin Powers since they are the same. The problem did NOT follow over to Austin Powers, and the exact same issue(s) remain with Austin Powers' driver board installed in South Park.

So it's not a wiring issue, not a driver board issue...I'm stumped. I scoured over all the wiring looking for anything that could cause this. I found nothing. This machine was 100% before the right flipper locked on. I'm very certain the current issues are related to that occurrence and nothing I did in the repair of it. The only anomaly I found was the wire that goes from the left slingshot coil to the driver board has a constant 54vdc even when the coil wasn't firing. If I remove the wire from the connector, the voltage goes away. If I remove the wire from the coil, the voltage goes away. The coil fires normally when the switches are activated so I don't know what's up with that but thinking it may be part of the problem, I removed the wire at both ends and it made no difference at all.

That's where I'm at. Not sure if it's a CPU issue or not. I've ruled out the driver board itself, the wiring (the wiring from the coils to the driver board), the coils, and the diodes on the coils as the cause of the issue. I'm not sure where else to go at this point. Any help would be appreciated. Got a tournament coming up this weekend and I'd like to get this going. Thank you.

#2 5 months ago

FIXED: So I swapped the CPU board from Austin Powers into this South Park and all the issues were gone! I fired up Austin Powers expecting it to have the same issues now as South Park. Nope. Fully working. I stood there in amazement and confusion. Swapped the boards back and both games were still fully working. It turned out to be a bad connection on one of the switch matrix connectors/harnesses that hook to the CPU. Simply reseating them from swapping the CPU boards fixed the issues. They must have been seated just right to work previously but after moving harnesses around in the back box during the flipper transistor repair, they got moved/wiggled enough for whatever wire(s) was/were responsible for the switch matrix on the coils that didn’t fire to lose connection. What was weird was all the switches on the bad coils registered. At any rate, South Park is back to 100% and I even finally fixed the Mr. Hankey and Toilet Lid mechanisms. Thanks to all who gave their advice. Got her all cleaned up, polished, new balls, and back in the row.

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#3 5 months ago

Back the truck up. I want pictures of the rail system used to hold the cameras over the machines.

Can you tell me more about your setup?

#4 5 months ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Back the truck up. I want pictures of the rail system used to hold the cameras over the machines.
Can you tell me more about your setup?

Electrical pipe ran along the ceiling with Sony Hadicams facing down toward the playfields feeding the monitors above the machines. Easy setup for tournaments and viewing so players aren’t crowded and participants can watch how someone’s doing.

#5 5 months ago

Looks awesome.

#6 5 months ago
Quoted from Zenomorp:

Electrical pipe ran along the ceiling with Sony Hadicams facing down toward the playfields feeding the monitors above the machines. Easy setup for tournaments and viewing so players aren’t crowded and participants can watch how someone’s doing.

So each TV is a direct feed from its associated camera? Do you have outlets in the ceiling for the cameras?

Nice setup by the way. I’d love to have the ceiling height to do it.

#7 5 months ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

So each TV is a direct feed from its associated camera? Do you have outlets in the ceiling for the cameras?
Nice setup by the way. I’d love to have the ceiling height to do it.

Yup. They are behind the monitors actually. Camera and monitor for each machine. The cameras and monitors are plugged in and left on 24/7 to avoid having to turn them on and adjust the image, etc every day. The electrical cost is minuscule. Been going fine for over a year.

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