(Topic ID: 93241)

South Park Club come on in.

By BowlingJim

9 years ago


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  • 1,643 posts
  • 218 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Crewey
  • Topic is favorited by 83 Pinsiders

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There are 1,643 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 33.
#1401 1 year ago

Check high voltage? Seems if coil didn’t change, the only thing that increases power is higher source. Unless there is a current limiting resistor in the circuit, you really can’t increase the current flow without a change in source voltage or circuit resistance, I.e. shorted turns or a shorted current limiter, which is highly unlikely. So shorted turns in coil or high voltage high is my two guesses, and a meter will tell the rest of the story.

#1402 1 year ago

Well I blew my HV display board the other day and the display was half dead Anyways ….

COLOR DISPLAY 1000% Justified

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#1403 1 year ago

If anyone recently purchased the full plastics set and is willing to sell any spares, I'm looking to buy this plastic only (the one all the way on the right above the Cartman hole). Message me if you'd like to sell your spare.

Untitled (resized).jpgUntitled (resized).jpg
#1404 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Well I blew my HV display board the other day and the display was half dead Anyways ….
COLOR DISPLAY 1000% Justified
[quoted image]

How did you light the topper sign? I don't see the usual light box there.

#1405 1 year ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Check high voltage? Seems if coil didn’t change, the only thing that increases power is higher source. Unless there is a current limiting resistor in the circuit, you really can’t increase the current flow without a change in source voltage or circuit resistance, I.e. shorted turns or a shorted current limiter, which is highly unlikely. So shorted turns in coil or high voltage high is my two guesses, and a meter will tell the rest of the story.

Voltages are all good and everything is back to "normal". What I suspect happened is last time I put the PF down I had it resting up against the right side of the cab instead of that hairline gap which was transferring the impact sound into the side of the cab. Bumped it slightly and everything sounds like it should.

#1406 1 year ago

Anyone in need of a Mr hankey for a decent price there ya go

ebay.com link: itm

#1407 1 year ago
Quoted from T2Fanuc:

Anyone in need of a Mr hankey for a decent price there ya go
ebay.com link: itm

Like $35 less than the normal scalper rate of $100

#1408 1 year ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Voltages are all good and everything is back to "normal". What I suspect happened is last time I put the PF down I had it resting up against the right side of the cab instead of that hairline gap which was transferring the impact sound into the side of the cab. Bumped it slightly and everything sounds like it should.

Crap! I almost chimed I’m guessing it was this but figure mine SP was the only one that got loud when I let the playfield rest against the right side. I did add some felt tape to the outside of the playfield a while ago and it helped a little.

#1409 1 year ago

Got it all setup! Mods to come

20230310_044456 (resized).jpg20230310_044456 (resized).jpg
#1410 1 year ago

Keep having any issue with my SP. If it goes down the toilet sometimes it will go down the ramp under the playfield and eject but then other times it will just sit where I have marked. Anyone else have this issue or have any ideas on how to fix?

Pinside_forum_7414532_3 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7414532_3 (resized).jpg

#1411 1 year ago
Quoted from lowndes8:

Keep having any issue with my SP. If it goes down the toilet someone's it will go down the ramp under the playfield and eject but then other times it will just sit where I have marked. Anyone else have this issue or have any ideas on how to fix?
[quoted image]

I had that problem when I first got mine. Took it all apart. Cleaned it. Still didn't work. I found that the machine was not level and not at the correct angle. Adjusted and haven't had the issue again....

#1412 1 year ago

Finally made it to both Spooky Vision (light all 5 characters by starting their mode but fail to complete one or 5 of their modes) and the final wizard mode Volcano (start mode and complete all mode shots for all 5 characters to keep them lit solid) and also do multiball. It’s so tough to get to either wizard because Chef, Kyle and Stan don’t retain how many times you’ve shot them so if you don’t activate their mode and lose your ball, you lose all progress towards them on the next ball. That was a rush! Owned it over 2 years and played over 150 times to get here.

#1413 1 year ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

Finally made it to both Spooky Vision (light all 5 characters by starting their mode but fail to complete one or 5 of their modes) and the final wizard mode Volcano (start mode and complete all mode shots for all 5 characters to keep them lit solid) and also do multiball. It’s so tough to get to either wizard because Chef, Kyle and Stan don’t retain how many times you’ve shot them so if you don’t activate their mode and lose your ball, you lose all progress towards them on the next ball. That was a rush! Owned it over 2 years and played over 150 times to get here.

I choked twice a few days ago…and yesterday I put up a 386 million score and my start button jammed and entered in AAA as the GC! Needless to say I reset my high scores and installed a new start button. I really do love this game!
Only people that hate pinball time out modes

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#1414 1 year ago

I definitely thought I’d choke. I’ve only gotten spooky vision a half dozen or more times. I have to wonder how often Volcano is even reached or if people even know it exists since it’s not easy to tell what the insert is for.

Still can’t believe I finally did it. And on just 3 balls since I didn’t get to collect an extra at all.

1 week later
#1415 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Well I blew my HV display board the other day and the display was half dead Anyways ….
COLOR DISPLAY 1000% Justified
[quoted image]

See my post here about the mounting of those speaker designs:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/south-park-club-come-on-in/page/17#post-5197744

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

#1416 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

See my post here about the mounting of those speaker designs:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/south-park-club-come-on-in/page/17#post-5197744
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

I had not thought about lighting mine, but after seeing how great it looks…I might have to take the plunge. Thank you.

#1417 1 year ago
Quoted from SirMachismo:

I had not thought about lighting mine, but after seeing how great it looks…I might have to take the plunge. Thank you.

DO IT

I added the acrylics and led color dmd

Super glad I did

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#1418 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

DO IT
I added the acrylics and led color dmd
Super glad I did
[quoted image][quoted image]

...but did you read my post. Your light kits would look much, much better if you would mount the speaker grills BEHIND the light frames instead of directly behind the designs.

Grill behind acrylic (resized).JPGGrill behind acrylic (resized).JPGGrill in Back (resized).JPGGrill in Back (resized).JPG
#1419 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

Your light kits would look much, much better if you would mount the speaker grills BEHIND the light frames instead of directly behind the designs.

As someone who has yet to light up speakers on any of my games, that is a night and day difference and actually gets me more interested in considering doing this to a game or two sometime.

#1420 1 year ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

As someone who has yet to light up speakers on any of my games, that is a night and day difference and actually gets me more interested in considering doing this to a game or two sometime.

On many of the acrylic designs it doesn't matter in what order you mount things. However, the ones that allow a lot of light to shine though the actual acrylic material, it makes a big difference. Putting the grill behind the light frames makes it so the grill holes are not between the design and the light source, so it does away with seeing the grill dots. It also lights the grill up in the back of the lit area instead of the speaker, which give the entire lit area a cleaner and less cluttered look. South Park, Family Guy and Ghostbusters are probably the designs where it is most important to have the grills mounted in behind the light frames to get them looking their best.

#1421 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

On many of the acrylic designs it doesn't matter in what order you mount things. However, the ones that allow a lot of light to shine though the actual acrylic material, it makes a big difference. Putting the grill behind the light frames makes it so the grill holes are not between the design and the light source, so it does away with seeing the grill dots. It also lights the grill up in the back of the lit area instead of the speaker, which give the entire lit area a cleaner and less cluttered look. South Park, Family Guy and Ghostbusters are probably the designs where it is most important to have the grills mounted in behind the light frames to get them looking their best.

Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

DO IT
I added the acrylics and led color dmd
Super glad I did
[quoted image][quoted image]

Ordered! They look way too good to pass up!
Thanks you both for the info and the push.
Elbert “Lb”

#1422 1 year ago
Quoted from SirMachismo:

Ordered! They look way too good to pass up!
Thanks you both for the info and the push.
Elbert “Lb”

They are awesome... speaker kit and acrylics. Last two pics in post #1366 show mine mounted as suggested.

1 week later
#1423 1 year ago

Finally ColorDMD installed. Really is a must on any pin.

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#1424 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

...but did you read my post. Your light kits would look much, much better if you would mount the speaker grills BEHIND the light frames instead of directly behind the designs. [quoted image][quoted image]

My 15yr old son installed them and he enjoys the look so I support his choice

To me it really doesn’t bother me either way as long as the game plays great

#1425 1 year ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Finally ColorDMD installed. Really is a must on any pin.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I got my SP at TPF in 2018 and the ColorDMD guys were picking non-upgraded pins that were for sale off the floor and offering no charge upgrades to the owners to let them install one in the game and put a ColorDMD sign on the head. Now some guys upped their asking price, but the ones looking to move their machines didn't and I picked up one up that needed a little love but how can you go wrong at $2500 with a CDMD? Kenny needed help in the opto dept and there was a chunk of wood missing around the spooky vision insert, but electrically it needed flipper switches and some lamp sockets replaced, a new set of LED's and rubbers, I put in a new translite I already had from winning a prize at a tournament, and now I have cabinet decals and blades to install post playfield swap and wire and mount the 4 boys as toppers like the guy above did, except not using Chef but a second Kenny up top to match the BG. It will look sweet and pretty once I am done. If I could just get a ramp and left return to replace my elderly cracked and broken ones. They work, but oh the embarassment and humiliation and heartbreak of cracked and broken plastics and ramps.

#1426 1 year ago

Worthwhile mod, do it!

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#1427 1 year ago
Quoted from T2Fanuc:

Worthwhile mod, do it!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm glad you like it and a person can mount things how they like, but it seems that people aren't agreeing with, or understanding, how I think this design should be mounted. Design, light frame, grill, speaker.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

#1428 1 year ago

DugFreez

Next place your acrylic art (optional) into position, followed by the grill. If your acrylic has etching make sure it is facing inward.

4A.(Stock Speakers) Place the LED Light frame on top of the grill making sure that the screw holes are (UP) and that the lead wire coming off is near the bottom corner of your DMD. Once in position, replace the speaker and screw in all 4 corners using the longer provided screws with the kit. Remember to hook the ground strap back on. (IF YOU HAVE UPGRADED SPEAKERS INSTALLED SEE NEXT PAGE)

I get where your heads at, just following the supplied directions.

#1429 1 year ago
Quoted from T2Fanuc:

DugFreez
Next place your acrylic art (optional) into position, followed by the grill. If your acrylic has etching make sure it is facing inward.
4A.(Stock Speakers) Place the LED Light frame on top of the grill making sure that the screw holes are (UP) and that the lead wire coming off is near the bottom corner of your DMD. Once in position, replace the speaker and screw in all 4 corners using the longer provided screws with the kit. Remember to hook the ground strap back on. (IF YOU HAVE UPGRADED SPEAKERS INSTALLED SEE NEXT PAGE)
I get where your heads at, just following the supplied directions.

Also on the supplied directions:

Alternate Installations
There are alternate ways you can install your acrylics. Here is a quick
rundown of the options. Assuming you are facing the machine you can
layer the install in a few different ways. Results will vary depending on the
acrylic used. You may have to experiment to see which is best for you.
Standard: Acrylic, Speaker Grill, Light Kit Frame, then speaker.
Peek-a-Boo: Speaker Grill, Acrylic, Light Kit Frame, then speaker.
3D: Acrylic, Light Kit Frame, Speaker Grill, then speaker.

In the case of the South Park design, the "3D" mount is hands down the best. Give it a try...I'm sure you will like the look of the design better.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

#1430 1 year ago

DugFreez

If this was always the intended design, just make this method the standard method, and the othe way the alternate. Wouldn't you agree? Thanks for the kit!

#1431 1 year ago
Quoted from T2Fanuc:DugFreez
If this was always the intended design, just make this method the standard method, and the othe way the alternate. Wouldn't you agree? Thanks for the kit!

No, as South Park, Family Guy and Ghostbusters are really the only designs that mounting them in the "3D" method is really important. Other designs like Lord of the Rings, the AC/DC devil girls and the Iron Man figure also benefit from it. The vast majority of the designs look fine and just as good if you mount the grill directly behind the design. Others (mostly black designs) look really cool being behind the grills. That way you can't see the design at all until the game and light kit are turned on. As stated, the different mounting methods are described in the instruction manual as well as encouraging people to try the different mounting methods to see which they prefer.

Of the games I have had the light kits and designs in, I had my blue X-Men X mounted behind the grill. In my Black Spider-Man I have the design in front and the grill mounted directly behind it. I still haven't put a light kit in my South Park, but I'm sure the design will be in front and the grill in back on that one. With my Iron Man (which I also do not have a light kit installed in) I think I will go with an acrylic design double stack. That is, the Iron Man figure in the front, then the light frame, then a silver mirror Arc Reactor design, then the grill and speaker. I have a light kit in my Rolling Stones LE, but I don't use a design in it as the LE has the Rolling Stones logo painted on the speaker grills. In those cases, it's best to have the grills mounted behind the light frames so the lights will light up the painted designs on the grills, instead or lighting them from behind and washing out the painted designs.

So, there are different, perfectly acceptable, ways to mount the various designs. A person can mount them anyway they want, but I think some ways definitely look better than others, depending on the design. I also know there may be circumstances or a person's preferences that may limit the way they want to mount them.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

#1432 1 year ago

Does anyone know if the Data East rails fit South Park?

https://www.pinballlife.com/black-button-guard-side-rails-for-data-east.html

#1433 1 year ago

Why not try the Stern rails? Not positive these fit either but they are a Stern game from 1999

https://www.pinballlife.com/black-button-guard-side-rails-for-stern.html

#1434 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Why not try the Stern rails? Not positive these fit either but they are a Stern game from 1999
https://www.pinballlife.com/black-button-guard-side-rails-for-stern.html

I'm not opposed, but it is getting new art with the cabinet restored so would prefer not to hide that.

#1435 1 year ago

My son once again beat the snot out of SP and he truly appreciates the risk / reward of the rules

He got volcano on ball 1

Very proud day

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#1436 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

He got volcano on ball 1

Damn! That’s ridiculous! Nice job!

#1437 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:My son once again beat the snot out of SP and he truly appreciates the risk / reward of the rules
He got volcano on ball 1

Quoted from sevenrites:

Damn! That’s ridiculous! Nice job!

I've had my SP for nearly 20 years and have never gotten to Volcano mode. Only recently did I get Spooky mode. *kicks rocks*

My kid has gotten pretty good on it, but that's really impressive.

Good job for your kiddo!

#1438 1 year ago
Quoted from Austin_Pinbarge:

I've had my SP for nearly 20 years and have never gotten to Volcano mode. Only recently did I get Spooky mode. *kicks rocks*
My kid has gotten pretty good on it, but that's really impressive.
Good job for your kiddo!

Thank you everyone
Some people really dislike SP but my kids love it

Yea it’s crude but what isn’t nowadays

Just wish CPR remade Playfields
Maybe 1 day …

#1439 1 year ago

FYI the modern stern rails are the same. Just confirmed.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-7297-02

#1440 1 year ago

Gotta love those Cliffy's! Finally got around to adding one on Kenny's hole. Kenny's hole looks like new and shines bright! A must! Here is a before and after of Kenny's hole...

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#1441 1 year ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Gotta love those Cliffy's! Finally got around to adding one on Kenny's hole. Kenny's hole looks like new and shines bright! A must! Here is a before and after of Kenny's hole...
[quoted image][quoted image]

I've been meaning to do this. Looks awesome!

#1442 1 year ago

Highly reccomend the led back panel from Arcade up keep. Dims during play, Full light in attract mode

20230415_085518 (resized).jpg20230415_085518 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1443 12 months ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

My son once again beat the snot out of SP and he truly appreciates the risk / reward of the rules
He got volcano on ball 1
Very proud day
[quoted image][quoted image]

How did you light the sign up top? Looks great!

#1444 11 months ago
Quoted from T2Fanuc:

How did you light the sign up top? Looks great!

Thank you a member made this mod that attaches to the 5VDC plug

#1445 11 months ago

If anyone is interested, I have a set of the South Park 0.90 "profanity chips" that I will be bringing to Allentown.

$40 for the set; PM me if interested.

1 week later
#1446 11 months ago

Is there anyone out there that is able to 3d print the Kenny snow mounds for the opto?

#1447 11 months ago

FYI - I'm currently making a mod to help with speaker hum/buzz on this generation of boards (Sega / Stern Whitestar). I have a Simpsons Pinball Party, and the hum was bothering me. I ended up finding this pinside discussion (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-speaker-humbuzz-fixed) which describes how to make the mod and how they work. The first post on that page has a video showing the process. I have them on Simpson's and Ripley's and they help immensely. If you'd like a pair and don't have the time or tools to make them, I will ship a pair to your door for $22. If interested please direct message me as I'm not here often. Thank you

#1448 11 months ago

The mylar on my South Park is bubbling and peeling by the slings. I saw a post one time of a guy who took up all the art on Cartman‘s insert when he remove the mylar. I usually have no trouble with freezing it with canned air. Has anyone else done it on this machine with good results? I’m guessing this guy just didn’t do it right? But wanted to be sure before I did it. Lol.

#1449 11 months ago
Quoted from stlkevin02:

The mylar on my South Park is bubbling and peeling by the slings. I saw a post one time of a guy who took up all the art on Cartman‘s insert when he remove the mylar. I usually have no trouble with freezing it with canned air. Has anyone else done it on this machine with good results? I’m guessing this guy just didn’t do it right? But wanted to be sure before I did it. Lol.

I don’t recommend as I did that and as you mention cartman came up with the Mylar

I just placed him back down and put a 2x4 Mylar over his head

Sucks they don’t make a reproduction field for SP these games took a beating

#1450 11 months ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

I don’t recommend as I did that and as you mention cartman came up with the Mylar
I just placed him back down and put a 2x4 Mylar over his head
Sucks they don’t make a reproduction field for SP these games took a beating

I was just curious if anyone else had tried. Did you use canned air?

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