(Topic ID: 93241)

South Park Club come on in.


By BowlingJim

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 910 posts
  • 136 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by gwarrior
  • Topic is favorited by 45 Pinsiders

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There are 910 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 19.
#901 63 days ago

Dont know if this is someone here or not.
Acrylic protector custom made to protect plastic #5 near thebkenney hole/kyle ramp

Just ordered one

ebay.com link

1 month later
#902 26 days ago

A belated Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all of the South Park Pinsiders, and all of the other Pinsiders as well! This is a great group and I'm very happy to be a part of. Thanks You All! I'm a new pinball owner and this group has helped me, and my kids, want to continue with the obsession.

#903 23 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:I did not. I got the correct LEDs , soldered them in and still nothing!! Any other suggestions ??

Okay, so now my Kenny optos have stopped working. The left transmitter light is still showing a red light as before, but when the beam is blocked with a pinball, the switch doesn't register. I went into diagnostics, and it's showing the Kenny opto as being an "active switch." My hunch is that it shouldn't be doing that...can anyone confirm that the Kenny opto is NOT supposed to be "active" unless the beam is being physically blocked?

So if I'm correct that the Kenny opto switch is not supposed to be "active" then this must mean that somehow, the light is not making it from the transmitter to the receiver. Yet I'm looking at it, and it looks like the receiver is glowing red, which means the light is in fact reaching it.

So what the heck am I supposed to do?

Any help out there?

Thanks.

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#904 22 days ago
Quoted from gwarrior:

Okay, so now my Kenny optos have stopped working. The left transmitter light is still showing a red light as before, but when the beam is blocked with a pinball, the switch doesn't register. I went into diagnostics, and it's showing the Kenny opto as being an "active switch." My hunch is that it shouldn't be doing that...can anyone confirm that the Kenny opto is NOT supposed to be "active" unless the beam is being physically blocked?
So if I'm correct that the Kenny opto switch is not supposed to be "active" then this must mean that somehow, the light is not making it from the transmitter to the receiver. Yet I'm looking at it, and it looks like the receiver is glowing red, which means the light is in fact reaching it.
So what the heck am I supposed to do?
Any help out there?
Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

i think it is always active until something breaks the beam, but i dont remember 100%. if you put your hand in front of one does the status change? if it does, you just need to adjust (bend) the LEDs

#905 22 days ago
Quoted from sk8ersublime:

i think it is always active until something breaks the beam, but i dont remember 100%. if you put your hand in front of one does the status change? if it does, you just need to adjust (bend) the LEDs

No, nothing happens when I block the beam...which is why I'm theorizing that it's tripped (active) because the receiving end isn't registering getting the beam. The two LEDs don't look out of alignment, and the receiving side is "glowing" with the red light coming from the transmitter, so I assumed that they must be in alignment. But I'll try wiggling both sides and see if it makes a difference.

#906 21 days ago

The Kenny opto is active when you break the beam. Just tested on mine, I had this issue with mine at one time. I had to reflow the solder on the receiver LED. The led wasn't sitting tight to the opto board and was out of alignment. Resoldered so the LED was sitting tight to the board and this worked for me. Or possible broken wire coming from receiver board somewhere?

#907 17 days ago

One tip for those who have got their Kenny optos working... drop a small drop of epoxy on the base of the led between the clear LED envelope and the board. This prevents the led from vibrating and breaking the leads and stabilizes the solder joint so it cracks less. Notice I said cracks LESS, not stops it from cracking. Also, once the LED is epoxied to the board, direct ball strikes will not knock it out of alignment. When replacing the LED, just dyke the old envelope off the front and sand away the old epoxy with a dremmel. Works 100% like factory after the repair, stays fixed longer than just reflowing solder joints, and requires no added opto protectors. But hey, what do I know about pinball?!?

#908 14 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

One tip for those who have got their Kenny optos working... drop a small drop of epoxy on the base of the led between the clear LED envelope and the board. This prevents the led from vibrating and breaking the leads and stabilizes the solder joint so it cracks less. Notice I said cracks LESS, not stops it from cracking. Also, once the LED is epoxied to the board, direct ball strikes will not knock it out of alignment. When replacing the LED, just dyke the old envelope off the front and sand away the old epoxy with a dremmel. Works 100% like factory after the repair, stays fixed longer than just reflowing solder joints, and requires no added opto protectors. But hey, what do I know about pinball?!?

Great advice, however, after looking at this a little bit more, my problem turns out to be more complex. On the opto receiver board, there is a second LED that activates in order to indicate when the beam between the transmitter and receiver LED has been broken. When I block the beam with my finger, the second indicator LED on the receiver board now lights up. This means the LEDs are working as they should, and the opto receiver board can tell then the beam has been tripped...however, the pinball machine itself does not recognize this, and instead shows the beam as being tripped at all times.

I'm not sure where along the line of communication between the tripped LED and the controller board in the head box the communication is breaking down. I ordered a new opto receiver board from pinball life and will try replacing the old one. If that doesn't solve the problem, then I'll be in trouble!

#909 13 days ago

Yes, if the PIA is shot, this.could cause the symptom, however, I would think you would have more issues on other switches. So most likely I would venture a cracked solder joint on the output pin to switch wiring harness. Reflow solder and recheck.

#910 7 days ago

I got the new OPTO receiver board today, installed it, and it works. I haven't got the electronics skills to troubleshoot the old board. But yes, it probably was an issue with the pins.

I'll hold on to it in case I need to salvage the old LED light bulb.

Thanks for the responses!

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