(Topic ID: 93241)

South Park Club come on in.


By BowlingJim

5 years ago



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  • 898 posts
  • 135 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by javagrind888
  • Topic is favorited by 44 Pinsiders

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There are 898 posts in this topic. You are on page 18 of 18.
#851 35 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

(make sure you get the index dent oriented properly when you install the LED on the board).

What is the index dent?

#852 35 days ago

The part number I used to replace mine was MV8114. It's a common led available from mouser and digikey for about 50 cents each. Even if you find it chances are the legs will be broken and not long enough to re-solder.

#853 35 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

What is the index dent?

There will be a flat spot on the led that lines up with the diagram on the board and indicates which leg is the cathode.

#854 34 days ago
Quoted from latenite04:

The part number I used to replace mine was MV8114. It's a common led available from mouser and digikey for about 50 cents each. Even if you find it chances are the legs will be broken and not long enough to re-solder.

Thank you for this! Just ordered some LEDs through them. Had my order over nighted. I’m too impatient to wait to get my opto fixed. Lol. I’m all in!!

#855 33 days ago

So in my ongoing project of sprucing up my SP machine, I’ve noticed that the Mylar on the play field is in bad shape. Specifically the left sling, and the lanes where Terrence and Philip is. Does anyone know where I can get replacement Mylar for these areas. I found the Mylar for the sling areas on titan’s website.

#856 33 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So in my ongoing project of sprucing up my SP machine, I’ve noticed that the Mylar on the play field is in bad shape. Specifically the left sling, and the lanes where Terrence and Philip is. Does anyone know where I can get replacement Mylar for these areas. I found the Mylar for the sling areas on titan’s website.

You can use the ball drop mylar from titan and cut it. If you have a lot of damage on the inlane switches pin-pimp makes some nice protectors that will cover it.

#857 33 days ago

So I got some led’s in today from amazon. I stuck a red led in the opto transmitter board for Kenny and the led lights , but it’s still not working the way it’s supposed to. When I break the beam of light, Kenny still doesn’t register. I tried to go into test mode, but that’s not working either. None of the tests are working. I tried a couple different tests and that’s not working either ! Anyone have any advice for me?

#858 33 days ago

Oh. And by the way, I used a red led bulb instead of a clear one. Would that make a difference on that Kenny opto ?

#859 33 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Oh. And by the way, I used a red led bulb instead of a clear one. Would that make a difference on that Kenny opto ?

I think you have to use an LED that is specifically an opto receiver or transmitter; a regular LED won't work. Check the manual for a part number.

#860 33 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Oh. And by the way, I used a red led bulb instead of a clear one. Would that make a difference on that Kenny opto ?

Try replacing the led in the other board with a matching one. LEDs only sense in a narrow wavelength around where they emit. You can try shining a bright white flashlight at the reciever and turn it on and off to see if it's registering. Since it emits all wavelengths it might work to test.

Here's a good article about the theory if your interested. https://makezine.com/projects/make-36-boards/how-to-use-leds-to-detect-light/

#861 33 days ago
Quoted from latenite04:

Try replacing the led in the other board with a matching one. LEDs only sense in a narrow wavelength around where they emit. You can try shining a bright white flashlight at the reciever and turn it on and off to see if it's registering. Since it emits all wavelengths it might work to test.
Here's a good article about the theory if your interested. https://makezine.com/projects/make-36-boards/how-to-use-leds-to-detect-light/

I ordered the LED from digikey as you spelled out the other day. But I had also ordered some from amazon and that’s the one that didn’t work. The digikey one won’t be here till Monday. So gotta wait a couple more days. Hopefully that one will work.

#862 33 days ago
Quoted from latenite04:

Try replacing the led in the other board with a matching one. LEDs only sense in a narrow wavelength around where they emit. You can try shining a bright white flashlight at the reciever and turn it on and off to see if it's registering. Since it emits all wavelengths it might work to test.
Here's a good article about the theory if your interested. https://makezine.com/projects/make-36-boards/how-to-use-leds-to-detect-light/

Agree, use the same LED and same color on each side. I would use a pair of the clear LEDs.

Keep the LED from the receiver just in case that doesn't work. Post pictures of the receiver boards.

#863 33 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Agree, use the same LED and same color on each side. I would use a pair of the clear LEDs.
Keep the LED from the receiver just in case that doesn't work. Post pictures of the receiver boards.

Should the clear LEDs emit red light?

#864 33 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Should the clear LEDs emit red light?

Yes

#865 28 days ago

So I replace the LED in the transmitter opto for Kenny. And......it’s still not working correctly. I attached a picture to show that’s it is indeed lit up. Can anyone else give me some kind of pointer here?? I really want to get this working.

DA825502-9A35-4F5B-B2D0-CF8BAD7A6DE8 (resized).jpeg
#866 28 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So I replace the LED in the transmitter opto for Kenny. And......it’s still not working correctly. I attached a picture to show that’s it is indeed lit up. Can anyone else give me some kind of pointer here?? I really want to get this working.[quoted image]

Did you re-solder the led on the receiver board. Chances are it's been hit a few times as well, it may need to be replaced. Re-seat the connector on the receiver board to make sure it has a good connection.

#867 28 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So I replace the LED in the transmitter opto for Kenny. And......it’s still not working correctly. I attached a picture to show that’s it is indeed lit up. Can anyone else give me some kind of pointer here?? I really want to get this working.[quoted image]

Did you replace the LED on the receiver side? They should be matched on both boards.

I found the schematic for these boards and confirmed they use use LEDs for both the transmitter and receiver. The part number they used is obsolete but is was a narrow beam, ultra bright LED. Part number TLRH180P

What is the second LED on the receiver board doing? Is it lit all the time or off all the time?

#868 27 days ago
Quoted from latenite04:

Did you re-solder the led on the receiver board. Chances are it's been hit a few times as well, it may need to be replaced. Re-seat the connector on the receiver board to make sure it has a good connection.

I used led part number mv8114 that latenite04 recommended. Ordered from digikey. I did not resolder the led on the receiver board. I’m wondering if the led on the receiver board should match the new led that I bought from digikey ??

#869 27 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

I used led part number mv8114 that latenite04 recommended. Ordered from digikey. I did not resolder the led on the receiver board. I’m wondering if the led on the receiver board should match the new led that I bought from digikey ??

Replace it so they match. The wavelength of the old one was 640nm and the new one is 660nm. That might be just enough difference that is not registering.

#870 27 days ago
Quoted from latenite04:

Replace it so they match. The wavelength of the old one was 640nm and the new one is 660nm. That might be just enough difference that is not registering.

Ahh. Ok. That makes sense. I will try that tonight when I get home and post an update. Thanks latenite

#871 27 days ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/85117

Just listed this in the market - thought I'd give this thread a heads up.

#872 27 days ago
Quoted from dgoett:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/85117
Just listed this in the market - thought I'd give this thread a heads up.

My wife purchased these tonight

#873 21 days ago

So my next project is buying a rebuild kit for my flippers. Is there a good guide out here for my SP machine? Also, I need new flipper buttons. Anyone know where I can get those ?

#874 21 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So my next project is buying a rebuild kit for my flippers. Is there a good guide out here for my SP machine? Also, I need new flipper buttons. Anyone know where I can get those ?

The flipper rebuild kit, and pretty much everything that you could ever need, is at Marco Specialties.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1049

#875 21 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So my next project is buying a rebuild kit for my flippers. Is there a good guide out here for my SP machine? Also, I need new flipper buttons. Anyone know where I can get those ?

Or here:

https://www.pinballlife.com/new-style-flipper-rebuild-kit-left-and-right-flippers-for-sternsega.html

#876 21 days ago
Quoted from Ericc123:

The flipper rebuild kit, and pretty much everything that you could ever need, is at Marco Specialties.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1049

What about instructions ??

#877 21 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So my next project is buying a rebuild kit for my flippers. Is there a good guide out here for my SP machine? Also, I need new flipper buttons. Anyone know where I can get those ?

Ok, I will save you some major head ache on flipper switches....

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6889-01

This is the switch you need for flipper cabinet switch replacement. It’s for digital flippers, which SP has.

#878 21 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So my next project is buying a rebuild kit for my flippers. Is there a good guide out here for my SP machine? Also, I need new flipper buttons. Anyone know where I can get those ?

Oh, forgot the cabinet switch too...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16883-4

#880 20 days ago

Ok. So I’m still trying to get the Kenny optos to work. I replaced both leds so that they matched , and it’s still not working. transmitter led is lit, but that’s about it. I’m almost ready to throw in the towel on this one and just buy new optos. Any other suggestions?

#881 20 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Ok. So I’m still trying to get the Kenny optos to work. I replaced both leds so that they matched , and it’s still not working. transmitter led is lit, but that’s about it. I’m almost ready to throw in the towel on this one and just buy new optos. Any other suggestions?

Review page 110 of the manual:

https://www.ipdb.org/files/4444/Sega_1999_South_Park_Manual_English.pdf

Test your values and make sure everything has a solid connection

#882 20 days ago

Just a thought, the optos on here are not the same as many machines. I went thru this a while back. I know if you have the wrong ones they won't work even if the transmitter lights up. Also make sure they are oriented correctly.

#884 19 days ago

So just ordered another set of LEDs from the pinball wizard site. Man. This is getting crazy trying to get the right LEDs. It’s driving me batty. I won’t stop until I get it working correctly though. I’m really hoping these are the right ones. The ones I ordered from digikey don’t have the same specs as the one from pinball wizards site. So maybe this time I’ll get lucky. What am I gonna do with all these LEDs!!! ‍♂️

#885 18 days ago

Got my game cleaned up and LED’ed the way I like. Couple things left to do, but happy with the results. Warm white for GI, natural white for controlled with a couple color matches for some inserts. LED OCD to soften the curves. Flame polished ramps and replaced clear star posts with green for snowy tree look. I might get the LED Color DMD.

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#886 14 days ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

Got my game cleaned up and LED’ed the way I like. Couple things left to do, but happy with the results. Warm white for GI, natural white for controlled with a couple color matches for some inserts. LED OCD to soften the curves. Flame polished ramps and replaced clear star posts with green for snowy tree look. I might get the LED Color DMD.[quoted image][quoted image]

You must get the Color DMD LCD display in that machine. It was the best upgrade to any of my machines and totally worth the price!

#887 13 days ago

The side blades really brighten it up too. I'd also suggest pinstadium lights for this machine. It really adds pop.

#888 8 days ago

My topper

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#889 8 days ago
Quoted from jayman4911:

My topper
[quoted image]

TIMEH!

#890 2 days ago

So I just got my flipper switches in the mail today. And I noticed that they came with no capacitors. Do I need to take them off the old switches and solder them to the new ones?

#891 2 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So I just got my flipper switches in the mail today. And I noticed that they came with no capacitors. Do I need to take them off the old switches and solder them to the new ones?

Do you mean diodes on the switches?

#892 2 days ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

Do you mean diodes on the switches?

Yeah. If that’s what they’re called. The new switches didn’t come with them. But I noticed my old switches have it soldered to the terminals.

-1
#893 2 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

The side blades really brighten it up too. I'd also suggest pinstadium lights for this machine. It really adds pop.

blades might not be so bad, but the overpriced LED lights are another story.. please don't mention those abominations.

#894 2 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Yeah. If that’s what they’re called. The new switches didn’t come with them. But I noticed my old switches have it soldered to the terminals.

Yes you must solder the diodes to the new switches. The diode has a silver band on it. YOU MUST SOLDER THE OLD DIODE WITH SILVER BAND IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION YOU SEE IT ON THE SWITCH. DM me if you have questions

#895 1 day ago
Quoted from jake35:

blades might not be so bad, but the overpriced LED lights are another story.. please don't mention those abominations.

In my experience, you are are minority there. My guests love the extra flash and control. They make a better impression if you play in the dark like we do.

#896 1 day ago
Quoted from jake35:

blades might not be so bad, but the overpriced LED lights are another story.. please don't mention those abominations.

They are pretty expensive IMO, i made my own for like $30-40. But the idea is pretty cool, i wouldnt say they are an "abomination". They completely change the look/feel of the game, and if you set it up correctly, its for the best, especially on this dark table.

#897 1 day ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So just ordered another set of LEDs from the pinball wizard site. Man. This is getting crazy trying to get the right LEDs. It’s driving me batty. I won’t stop until I get it working correctly though. I’m really hoping these are the right ones. The ones I ordered from digikey don’t have the same specs as the one from pinball wizards site. So maybe this time I’ll get lucky. What am I gonna do with all these LEDs!!! ‍♂️

Did you get your optos working?

#898 16 hours ago

Jake35 also frequents the Pinstadium page just to maximize his downvotes. It's weird the crusades that people go on. It's a good product with a good guy running it. Overpriced? Yeah, but everything in pinball is and this one wins the "best mod" award by a landslide for a reason.

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