latenite04 thx for giving me the ok to do so.

I am looking at printing in petg at .12 layer height. Light sanding and airbrush painting.

I will get one printed in the next two weeks so I can show the process. First to reserve one gets a substantial reduction in price for helping test. If there are issues it will be replaced. (USA mainland for this).

If anyone wants to work up models for the ramps... Im sure I could either 3d print a replacement ramp to hold you over.

Please inbox me so I can get an accounting of about how much petg to order for the first run.

This is simply for hobbyists and collectors that own the pinball.

Hope everyone's arm makes it safely so Mr. Hankey can wave a "Howdy Ho".

I will have a used one that is in decent shape, no real lost wood with the exception of the spooky insert has a chipped wood edge that left a small divot and shows bare wood. There are a couple of places the factory mylar is coming up, but no lost artwork, the Kenny hole and Cartman hole are worn but not chipped up real bad. I found a guy on here with a NOS one, so when I get the playfield swap done, I will have the used one left over. I guess Southpark NOS playfields are rare.

Is there a special bracket that mounts the South Park disclaimer sign on top of the box?

I don't see any pretty drilled holes in mine like I had for mounting Cartman.
What are people doing for the sign mounting?

I've seen the amazing 3d printed holder and led lit sign/characters which I'd love to do someday.

There are brackets holding the sign & a screw from inside the back box holding Cartman.
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Shout out to latenite04.
Hankeys hand arrived and was doing the royal wave.
Thank you!

Did you glue it?

Thank you for the info hawkeyexx. Didn't even consider some simple L brackets. I was envisioning something far too complicated.

Your welcome. I'm always happy to help with my SP. Most everyone is not a fan of this pin but it's a fun pin in our house.

Got my Hankey arm yesterday in the mail.. Looks great! Thanks hawkeyexx!!!

Todd

edit: I mean thanks latenite04!

latenite04 is the person who made Mr Hankey arm. Your welcome for the photos I posted. Anyone use glue to hold the new arm?

I drilled a hole in mr hankey just big enough for the wire to fit and about 1/4 inch deep. I used a few drops of super glue to hold mine.

In the coil test coil #6 is the latch that holds him down. You can probably also just push the plate from the top of the tank with a long flat screwdriver. I pulled my playfield forward so the supports were resting on the lockdown bar and I had enough room to drill.

Thanks Latenight!
The Mr.Hankey arm is perfect. I drilled a hole above the original arm and super glued it in. I'm getting more familiar with the diagnostic systems on this, my first pinball, machine.
I had to "push" down on my Mr. Hankey in test mode to get him to pop up in test mode. From there, he popped twice during regular game play and then stayed stuck in the tank. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and please remember that I'm new at this. Thanks again! Great club!
Irish Pat

The spring that pushes him up is either junk or installed upside down.
I have first hand experience with both
Spring is available from marco

Whoops! Sorry about that latenite04. YOU are the one to thank!

Todd

Anyone have hankey getting stupid in the up position? Seems hes getting hung up on the toilet lid for some reason. Not all the time but often enough that it's a pain in the ass to pull the glass down and get him back in.

No problem, glad I could lend a hand.

Post a few pictures of it and see if anyone can spot the problem.

That was supposed to say Hankey getting stuck in the up position. Here's a pic of the part holding hankey on getting hung up on top of the toilet lid. Perhaps the bracket isn't on correctly.

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That screw at the top isn't supposed to be there. Mr hankey is just mounted with two screws at the bottom of the bracket.20190715_225431 (resized).jpg

Any update on a Kenny part? The cartman and inlane pieces have been great! I havent tried the metal fix you sent me yet, right now im using some blue duct tape to protect that area haha

Does anyone have any pictures and/or advise as to how to take apart the Mr. Hankey mechanism to access the coil to check/replace the spring. I'm new at this and don't want to screw it up as we really like the machine. Thanks.

The whole mech drops out from the bottom. I think it is 4 screws that holds the bracket and 2 molex plugs. I just changed mine out because he was not retracting far enough to latch. I replaced the spring and the coil sleeve and all is good now.

Sorry to bother you. I seem to be having a similar problem with my Mr, Hankey and went looking for help in older posts. Do you remember what you did to adjust the latch? I can get mine to pop up in test mode only after pressing down on him when activating. Then he'll work a few times and get stuck.

Thank you. Works great without that screw.
Looks like in addition to missing arms hankey also had a screw in his head that didn't belong. Perhaps the upper screw was torn too badly and a prior owner improvised poorly.

While installing my new hankey arms, I found one of the original broken way back in the corner of the pin. Drilled out a hole for the new and rigged up the og. Hopefully they stay intact. So far looks great.

Thanks again Latenite

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Why is it that the right arm always breaks?

Must be hitting something.......

Yeah, there isn't much there to hit.

Guess it's doing it on every pin because the left arm is missing.......I will get my glued soon. I have been busy doing repairs on a Jurassic Park I purchased over 2 years ago. Buying a used pin is like buying a used car ....the salesman tells you it was just checked over. You get it home find out that's not what was advertised

No NIB here.
I feel your pain.

South Park was the first pin that I owned; while there were times that it used to drive me absolutely crazy when things would go wrong, I really enjoyed trying to figure out why those things would happen and then go about fixing and repairing them. There was no greater feeling than finding and resolving a problem, and I also learned a great deal about pinball repair from that pin. I no longer own SP (I sold it a couple of months ago for much more than I bought it for!), but I wouldn't trade the time I owned it for anything in the world.

I have been meaning to share this for a while now but been too lazy. I added a shaker motor to my South Park and it works pretty well. I’m using a Stern shaker motor, (2) 5V relays, (2) Flash to Solid Boards from Tim’s Pinball Mods and a 5V transformer. Total spent is around $150. In hindsight, I would only need (1) relay and (1) Flash to solid board so this would have saved some money (more on that later).
The shaker is activated when the pop bumpers are hit or more specifically, when the Yellow Flasher near the pop bumpers goes on.
Sorry I am not providing a wiring diagram for what I did but I’ll explain these photos the best I can. I am not going to explain how to wire a relay or what they do but the Flash to Solid board will take an input from a flashing lamp and convert it to a solid signal. This way you can tap into a flashing lamp (in this case the yellow flasher near the pop bumpers) and the board will send out a solid “trigger” to the 5V relay. The 5V relay is wired to the Shaker Motor. The 5V transformer provides power to all these components including the shaker motor. The cabinet’s 115V source for the transformer is the black & white molex connector located right in front of the big transformer. Not sure what this is meant for but it was very convenient. I placed the motor in the middle of the cabinet and not in it’s typical space because it was a tight fit. This is probably not a good idea because the bottom of the cabinet shakes too much now. I’ll have to re-do this. Also, I used two flash to solid boards and two relays to tap into both the Yellow and Red flashers but this proved to be too much. The shaker was going off all the time and I didn’t like it so I disconnected the connection to the Red flasher and like the effect now.
If I did this again I would obviously only need 1 relay and 1 flash to solid and I would move the shaker to it’s typical location.
I hope this helps anyone who may want to try this.

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Nice job. I assume the same setup could be used to add a shaker to any machine?

Yes it can

If you have your manual I would perform a switch test. Something is telling the pin to load 2 balls in the shooter lane.

check that the optical board in the through is clean and tight as well. And check it for cold solder joints. My TSPP was doing the same thing when I bought it, actually got it cheaper because of that. The only issue was that the Optical board was barely screwed on, i tightened the screws and I havent had an issue since.

My South Park has been my test subject for everything I’m doing. I grabbed a $5 can of paint and tried my hand at changing the color. It’s not perfect by any means, but it looks pretty good over all. I still have to do the side rails. The non perfect paint job blends in with the crappy side art condition lol

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Nice! glad you figured it out quickly and cheaply

ive thought about getting it done, but for $5 i just did it myself to see how i like it. If i got it powdered in the future it will get sandblasted off anyway lol. I just wish i was a more patient painter. I want it done NOW haha

New playfield just appeared on ebay for $1000

Tonight I decided to try my hand at DIY stadium lights. I’ve always wanted them, but felt they are a bit too pricey. I looked up some stuff online and headed to Home Depot. For $39 these are my results. Not as customizable but they do a pretty good job. I just need to wire them into the GI now.

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