Ok, set up... havent gone through the guts yet...

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Ok, SP is back up and running. Fixed his trough opto board power supply connector pin which had either broke loose due to vibration, or a cold solder joint that finally failed, or if corrosion due to improper removal of flux residue, or bimetal corrosion due to trimming the lead after soldering the joint caused the failure, but that is all the modes of failure for this, and there are ways to prevent them all, just not at pinball margins during manufacture.

But, SP is up!

Ok, lamp matrix is not working, not blowing the fuse either... the plot thickens.

Ok, a bit embarrasing, but I can not find my meter anywhere. How does one troubleshoot without a meter!?!? I can’t even quickly check the fuse, the voltage, for shorts or opens, Coke vs. Pepsi, up vs. down.

Looks like I might have to fashion a diode/lamp/jumper test lead and do this the old fashioned way.

Ah, jeez. I assumed when seeing it at TPF that it was just a blown fuse. Sorry to hear it's not. Hopefully you get it figured out soon.

Thinking about leaving the club. Really good condition with minimal flipper wear. Comes with full cliffs protector set plus additional protectors.

Looking for $3,000 or OBO.

Just picked up my first SP pinball this week. Always wanted one
I went through the pin and fixed some minor issues and cleaned / waxed the playfield. I switched the game back to factory settings in the adj menu and re-enabled adult speech. The only thing I notice now is that some of chefs speech gets cut off, specifically when he says the line about sweet loving. It’s like have if the word “loving” is missing. The entire line was there before but it is missing part of the word since the factory reset even though adult speech is enabled. Anyone else have this issue? I believe I have version 1.03 installed.

Seems to be back to normal with no adjustments.

The good ole power cycle.

Picked up a ColorDMD at MGC.

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Despite my old beat up decals, I'm thinking of getting powder coated legs and lock down bar. (Rails looks like too much trouble).

I see that you can just order the legs already painted in some places, but does any site sell colored lock down bars?

So I have a South Park machine. I found the main volume and background music volumes, but there is no section on how adjust the special fx volume. I have looked in the adjustments sections of my manuel, but it only gives out background music and main volume adjustments. Is there a way to turn down special fx volume or is there no way?

Sure, turn up the music. Then turn down the main volume. That will effectively turn down the sfx volume.

I will try tonight. Thank you very much.

Looking for any interest from South Park owners who might like a new Toilet for their machines. If I 3D model one and put it up on Shapeways, would anyone else buy one? Pretty sure it would be prohibitively expensive, but might be better than the $299 price tag from the only place online that had one in stock. That being said, I bought that $299 dollar NOS toilet (yeah, but what else are you going to do when your original is already broke dick?) just so I have an original to go in my machine,but I am not stupid either. If I can get one made out of 3D printed SLS Nylon, I can re-engineer the model to be stronger and thicker in all the right places, and even possibly engineer the handle to “flush” when a ball passes through the toilet bowl, using nothing but weight of the ball to provide mechanical force/motion.

Anybody else need a toilet without a broken bowl? Maybe one that “flushes” the handle?

I've been working on one for a while. It's currently installed on my machine but I haven't had time to put the machine back together to test it. It looks like the base/tank/lid printed at shapeways in Multi Jet Fusion would be around $255 plus whatever handling and shipping they charge. One downside is that the only color options are black, gray and dark gray so I guess you would have to paint it.

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Yes, totally interested.

I totally regret selling my close to HUO SP. Such a fun game!

First off, excelent work on the model. Looks like a top notch reproduction. A few questions, if you don’t mind answering them, for the folks at home...

What software did you use to model it? I use Solidworks myself, but I am a veteran, so I can get the educational version cheap.

What material did you use to print yours? Did you do any surface finishing on it?, paint?

What 3D printing method did you use, and did you print it yourself or use Shapeways, etc...?

And as an update to my previous post, the Toilet I found online at CoinopPartsEtc was found to be broken, so they offered to epoxy and reenforce it and knock $25 bucks off of their already ridiculous $299 price. I counter offered $120 and told them for $299 dollars, you expect it to be pristine, because I have a broken one thats already been epoxied and reenforced already in my machine... and it cost me nothing. I don’t think they will take me up on that offer but you never know.

Thanks. I printed it on my home printer out of white PLA which is all my printer would do at the time. I have done some upgrades and can print some of the stronger materials now. I have rolls of abs, petg, and a pla+ that claims to be as strong as abs to try. Even though pla isn't as strong as some of the other materials I tried to damage some of my earlier prototypes and it holds up well. It was designed with Openscad which is great for modeling some things but kind of a pain for modeling this, it doesn't do organic shapes easily. Solidworks would be nice but I'm not sure I could take the price for hobby work.

I couldn’t either without the Veterans educational discount, it is literally only $20 bucks (in the past few years) and it creates STL files that I can slice and print without limitations. I already know how to use Solidworks from my engineering job I had working at Grimes Aerospace and designing aircraft lights for Boeing. Organic shapes suck, but most of them can be approximated using swept profiles, it just takes a few minutes to determine in what plane or what axis, what orientation, what path, what plane that path is on, wether it is it coplaner, or non coplanar, etc... areodynamic shapes were usually given to us by Boeing, but they were usually just meshes from their CATIA system that ended up being hand jammed by us into Solidworks by extracting the needed coordinates in the meshes and use those values to build a mesh in Solidworks, or if it was easier to interperet their design intention, we would remodel using standard features that closely (which means within manufacturing tolerances) approximate the shape. This toilet will be easy to begin with but as the final features emerge, the cuts and extrusions get kind of crazy, but you have to keep in mind your printer only has so much resolution and some features can be disregarded due to being smaller than you can print, see, or be able to compare directly to the original, or in the words of my father, just “Good enough for Government work”.

Looks great! Maybe a little too clean!

I would love to get a new toilet for the game.

My toilet has been in and running for about 30 games now. I posted the files if anyone wants to have a go at printing their own to try, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3604089.

Nice. I'm getting a nice 3d printer in my classroom next school year and I'll print one out!

Ok I replaced the backbox LED’s that the former owner had installed, they were too blue for the wife’s tastes, so I went back to a single T8 24” LED replacement tube and the original mounting sockets, so now the machine looks stock again with a new translite. Only got to replace the shooter lane switch, the flipper button switches, and the shooter kicker coil which has one side of the coil wire just dangling in space, the terminal completely melted off, so the coil wire is just soldered to the coil diode and coil driver line and then bent so it touches nothing... So yeah, replacing the coil. After that, a complete cleaning, relamping with all LED’s, replacing all broken sockets, replacing all the characters and their mounting springs, and finally, get a new toilet (or get it printed) and replace the broken one. Then get all new cabinet decals printed and I will be finished. I am going to redo the cabinet art to match the backglass artwork, i.e. more textured paper looking artwork like the original show, not the crappy original cabinet artwork.

Thanks so much for making this public. What did you use for infill percent when you sliced it?

I had cura set to 8 walls and 60% infill. With those settings I don't know that there is any actual infill in the walls, they look solid.

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My coin mechs stick with half the coins put in, and also my coin eject buttons stick when I push them in. What parts do I need to order to replace them? They seem cheap enough:

https://www.pinballlife.com/coin-doors-and-parts.html

Can I use the Stern coin eject buttons? It would be sweet since they come in different colors.

Or should I go for this instead? My coin door is dented and drilled too....
http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/228/williams-sega-stern-coin-door-b-a-ready.htm

Have you washed your coin mechs lately? Mild soap and water, dry thouroughly. Huge difference. Just think of all those sticky, wet fisted kids jamming every coin shaped piece of crap they can find through them, and now you know why they can be dunked and dried out!

I haven't. I'll try it out, can't hurt if they break more I think. I also need to figure out how to clean the coin return buttons.

It probably had a soda spill down across coin door.

Installed the ColorDMD LCD screen in my South Park during the GSPF 2019 show this past weekend. Wow, talk about giving a machine new life! The LCD works well with the cartoon graphics and the optional display styles adds even more value! Color LCD or LED is a thumbs up by me for SP!

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Anyone ever replaced their toilet lid plunger bushing? This looks like an oilite pressed in bushing on the lid solenoid weldement. Mine is WTFO and the plunger looks worn too, my lid is sticking open, and closed, depending. Is this bushing a standard size? Anyone know what to replace it with, it is not listed as a seperate part in the diagram/manual, and god knows what plunger might work to replace this one, it is not in stock anywhere, as one might expect. To clarify, this is on the black lid solenoid, not the white tank lid/Mr Hankey mech.

Ok, well today marks the last repair on South Park until I swap out the playfield. I have fixed and repaired all switches, solenoids, burnt out silicon, converted the backbox flourescent to LED, replaced the translite, replaced all burnt or broken coils, replaced the worn out flipper switches, but it still needs a flipper rebuild and bushings, but that happens during the swap. I have replacements for all South Park figures, and replaced all of the old and new figure’s mounting wires with new springs. I have two Kenny’s if I need to replace one, and I found all four boys in 6” size to mount on top along with the warning sign, not just a Cartman. I have my NOS playfield now and need a NOS plastics set, hopefully I can find a complete set from someone hoarding a set back. The sets on Ebay are incomplete and overpriced. I didnt mind paying $$$ for my playfield, those are the backbone of the machine, but incomplete plastics sets for more than $250 to $300 is outrageous and they are going to sit on ebay for some time...

I got my NOS complete plastic set off ebay around a year ago for $150

I printed a toilet for myself. Came out great and looks great. This is with no sanding or painting on the bodies. I did have to cut a large piece out for the lid hinge to fit properly but everything else lined up perfectly. I also put a screw through the handle to attach it from the back. Thanks again @latenight04.
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Glad to see it worked. The seat hinge and ball stopper locations seem to be a bit different on every machine. I looked at a lot of pictures of originals and those two spots always seem to be altered by hand. I should probably make the opening for the seat hinge larger, I don't think the missing material would hurt anything. What material did you end up printing it with?

I printed it with PLA since that is what I had. Did you ever model the tank top or the seat lid? Mine are in good shape although the color of the lid doesn't match.

The tank top file should be on thingiverse to download. I never modeled the seat but I do have a dxf file of the outline to laser cut one. It wouldn't be hard to turn that into a 3d model.

Does the ball swirl in the 3d printed toilet satisfactorily?

I got tired of my hv power supply board going out. So... I modded in a red stern 5v led dmd into it.

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It's not quite the same since the bowl has a different shape but I haven't had any issues with it bouncing out.

Well, damn.

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That sucks. Hopefully you just broke the target insert.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-6138-05

LovelyCoCoNuts has offered to make some 3d printed toilets. I'm sure he will be posting in the next few days looking to gauge interest. I'll let him fill in the details on his plans for pricing and availability.

I broke my red middle one. Those are relatively easy to replace.

I have a lot of reading to do in here but,

does anyone have a used playfield or know where there is one? Any availability on the right ramp?

My game works and plays fine, but it's been around the block, so I'm trying to gauge how far I want to take it or just leave it a solid beater player.

Thanks, James