trifurcons = .156 __ not .100

Steve Young's Pinball Resource is my usual stop because he and Great Plains Electronics (Miss you Ed!) were the guys who have the 28 position one you need

http://www.pbresource.com/molex.html

I just ordered a lot of .156 stuff from Pinball Life, and I'm suprized to not see .100 pins, but look at this link:

https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=.100

I'm not a fan of the IDC connectors, I replace original connectors with what Pinball Life calls 'Crimp and Stuff'.

Mouser has this:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0106?qs=zi95yC3thwEn8WhcIJBXDA%3D%3D&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1ZGcBhCoARIsAGQ0kkp8_--O5o-J-n-gWb2ZIL00zhGTjSNJ0jtmIrTSQOMmfczV_QS5Gr0aAgBsEALw_wcB

Found it!

https://wirebot.xyz/collections/0-100

I really like what these guys are doing. Once I'm out of current stock I'm buying from them!

He meant that there are no .100 trifurcons. They only come in .156

Trifurcon pins are the 3-sided pins that would make contact with header pins on 3 sides.

Can you clarify what part you're actually looking for? Preferably an exact Molex part #?

When you write something like "the 45 year old plastic bur inside the connector", it makes it sound like maybe you are using the word "connector" to describe the housing. The connectors are the parts inside the housing that make the actual connection.

For actual Molex parts, the usual places ought to have a pretty good selection. Digi-key, Mouser, Great Plains, Newark, etc. Looking at the part # on that link to Steve Young's site, I think maybe the 28 pin housing isn't a standard Molex part. The "BLY-E764-28" number makes it sound like it might have been a custom part made for Bally.

Those longer housings are mostly NLA.

Unless they're brittle and crumbling, they're reusable.

You just need to make sure you're removing the old pins properly & installing the new ones properly.

Agreed. But the OP seems to be suggesting that they weren't careful enough, and that they need a new housing. I'm just trying to help make sure everyone's on the same page with respect to what part they are looking for. People have provided multiple links to sources for connectors, but it seems to me the OP might be looking for a housing instead.

Variety pack at Yorktown Arcade Supply
https://yorktown-parts-equipment.myshopify.com/collections/connector-repair-kits/products/arcade-pinball-100-inch-2-54mm-molex-connector-repair-starter-kit

All good posts PinRetail ForceFlow pete_d GLSP3022.

Usually, the brown/burnt red housings are for .100 pins and the whiteish looking ones are .156 in Bally machines.

.100 is what you need, .156 are for the wider connectors (big pins). tri used on contacts that normally burn (GI).

The small brown housings are .100

I dont think trifurcons are made in that size

Depending on pin count, Digikey and Mouser has .100 headers in stock.

Trifurcon pin (only comes in .156 size)
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Regular connector pin (comes in .100 and .156 sizes)
pasted_image (resized).png

Header pins (.100 and .156):
pasted_image (resized).png

Is every pin you install not locking in, or just a few? I have not done that much repinning but a couple of pins would not lock in solid (ended up pulling out during the job) so I pried up on the pin's locking tab ever so slightly with a pen knife to get it to lock.

.100 pins are for the brown connectors, period.

First, which connector position are you wanting to fix?
1) is the connector for the MPU?
1a) Main Lamp driver board?
1b) Input to the solenoid/voltage regulator?
------------------------------------------------
Second, I came across some odd European retrofit kit that the housing does not work with
USA style pins... The pins kept slipping out...

When you say they are not locking, what do you mean exactly? Is the pin getting all the way into the connector to where you can see the locking tab, and it's just not popping up? Or will they not fit into the connector. A pic or two of what you have and are doing may help see what the issue is.

Stupid question: are you sure you have the connector oriented correctly when inserting it into the housing?

On alot of those .100 connectors I find that I really need to get some good pressure to get the pin in all the way for the tab to pop. Sometimes it slides right in but you need to make sure the wire isn't bending and causing it to not go in all the way and even push it in a bit with a small screwdriver or something. If you took care getting the original ones out the new ones should all go in.

How did you remove the original pins that were in there? Did you press down the lock tabs or just pull them out?

Another dumb question...are you trying to get those pins into the IDC connectors? Those you need a special tool to punch the wire into directly and you can't use those with the crimp pins.

CPU, J2 playfield switch strobe connector.

LCSC has tin over brass long mating length 0.100" headers classic bally uses at like 10% the cost of the molex brand.

I love my fancy racheting crimping for 0.156" but I still use the cheap 1026CT aka BCT1 for 0.1" crimps. They are just too small and fiddly to do in the ratcheting crimper or I need more practice.

I knew I was only going to be doing one or two games worth of connectors at the most in the forseeable future on my 'keepers' so I went with a basic crimper. I could drop my coke-bottle glasses down my nose (then I'm like a human microscope) and make sure the pin was placed just right in the crimper before squeezing the handles. Even then I manage to screw one up here and there by not paying enough attention.