(Topic ID: 326564)

Source for .100 Molex connectors?

By budfrog80

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

Hey guys. Molex .100 connectors seem to be hard to find. Any good sources? I am finishing up an Eight Ball by repinning the existing connectors but the new trifurcons don’t seem to want to “grab” and stay in. I assume the 45 year old plastic bur inside the connector is probably cracking off when I remove the old pin? At any rate, new connectors would be ideal. Can’t seem to source .100 Molex. Any thoughts would help.

#2 1 year ago

trifurcons = .156 __ not .100

#3 1 year ago

Even in the brown connectors to the MPU, Lamp board, etc.? The .156 trifurcons I tried didn’t seem to want to fit. Thanks.

#4 1 year ago

Steve Young's Pinball Resource is my usual stop because he and Great Plains Electronics (Miss you Ed!) were the guys who have the 28 position one you need

http://www.pbresource.com/molex.html

I just ordered a lot of .156 stuff from Pinball Life, and I'm suprized to not see .100 pins, but look at this link:

https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=.100

I'm not a fan of the IDC connectors, I replace original connectors with what Pinball Life calls 'Crimp and Stuff'.

Mouser has this:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0106?qs=zi95yC3thwEn8WhcIJBXDA%3D%3D&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1ZGcBhCoARIsAGQ0kkp8_--O5o-J-n-gWb2ZIL00zhGTjSNJ0jtmIrTSQOMmfczV_QS5Gr0aAgBsEALw_wcB

#5 1 year ago

Found it!

https://wirebot.xyz/collections/0-100

I really like what these guys are doing. Once I'm out of current stock I'm buying from them!

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from budfrog80:

Even in the brown connectors to the MPU, Lamp board, etc.? The .156 trifurcons I tried didn’t seem to want to fit. Thanks.

He meant that there are no .100 trifurcons. They only come in .156

Trifurcon pins are the 3-sided pins that would make contact with header pins on 3 sides.

#7 1 year ago

Can you clarify what part you're actually looking for? Preferably an exact Molex part #?

When you write something like "the 45 year old plastic bur inside the connector", it makes it sound like maybe you are using the word "connector" to describe the housing. The connectors are the parts inside the housing that make the actual connection.

For actual Molex parts, the usual places ought to have a pretty good selection. Digi-key, Mouser, Great Plains, Newark, etc. Looking at the part # on that link to Steve Young's site, I think maybe the 28 pin housing isn't a standard Molex part. The "BLY-E764-28" number makes it sound like it might have been a custom part made for Bally.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Can you clarify what part you're actually looking for? Preferably an exact Molex part #?
When you write something like "the 45 year old plastic bur inside the connector", it makes it sound like maybe you are using the word "connector" to describe the housing. The connectors are the parts inside the housing that make the actual connection.
For actual Molex parts, the usual places ought to have a pretty good selection. Digi-key, Mouser, Great Plains, Newark, etc. Looking at the part # on that link to Steve Young's site, I think maybe the 28 pin housing isn't a standard Molex part. The "BLY-E764-28" number makes it sound like it might have been a custom part made for Bally.

Those longer housings are mostly NLA.

Unless they're brittle and crumbling, they're reusable.

You just need to make sure you're removing the old pins properly & installing the new ones properly.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

You just need to make sure you're removing the old pins properly & installing the new ones properly.

Agreed. But the OP seems to be suggesting that they weren't careful enough, and that they need a new housing. I'm just trying to help make sure everyone's on the same page with respect to what part they are looking for. People have provided multiple links to sources for connectors, but it seems to me the OP might be looking for a housing instead.

#11 1 year ago

All good posts PinRetail ForceFlow pete_d @glsp3022.

#12 1 year ago

Thanks guys. I meant the housing, not the connector. I have to believe that I must have the wrong trifurcon connector. I was assuming that the .100 connector was actually appropriate for the .100 housing but I am understanding correctly that this is not the case? Should a .156 trifurcon also be used for the smaller, brown housings? Thanks for the help everyone.

#13 1 year ago

Usually, the brown/burnt red housings are for .100 pins and the whiteish looking ones are .156 in Bally machines.

#14 1 year ago

.100 is what you need, .156 are for the wider connectors (big pins). tri used on contacts that normally burn (GI).

#15 1 year ago

The small brown housings are .100

I dont think trifurcons are made in that size

#16 1 year ago

Depending on pin count, Digikey and Mouser has .100 headers in stock.

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from budfrog80:

Thanks guys. I meant the housing, not the connector. I have to believe that I must have the wrong trifurcon connector. I was assuming that the .100 connector was actually appropriate for the .100 housing but I am understanding correctly that this is not the case? Should a .156 trifurcon also be used for the smaller, brown housings? Thanks for the help everyone.

Trifurcon pin (only comes in .156 size)
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Regular connector pin (comes in .100 and .156 sizes)
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Header pins (.100 and .156):
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#18 1 year ago

Is every pin you install not locking in, or just a few? I have not done that much repinning but a couple of pins would not lock in solid (ended up pulling out during the job) so I pried up on the pin's locking tab ever so slightly with a pen knife to get it to lock.

.100 pins are for the brown connectors, period.

#19 1 year ago

Every pin is not locking. I have tried bending the locking tab slightly with no luck. I have to believe at this point that I must have the wrong connector. These are the connectors I am using with the smaller, brown housings. Are these correct?

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#20 1 year ago
Quoted from budfrog80:

Every pin is not locking. I have tried bending the locking tab slightly with no luck. I have to believe at this point that I must have the wrong connector. These are the connectors I am using with the smaller, brown housings. Are these correct?
[quoted image]

First, which connector position are you wanting to fix?
1) is the connector for the MPU?
1a) Main Lamp driver board?
1b) Input to the solenoid/voltage regulator?
------------------------------------------------
Second, I came across some odd European retrofit kit that the housing does not work with
USA style pins... The pins kept slipping out...

#21 1 year ago

When you say they are not locking, what do you mean exactly? Is the pin getting all the way into the connector to where you can see the locking tab, and it's just not popping up? Or will they not fit into the connector. A pic or two of what you have and are doing may help see what the issue is.

#22 1 year ago

I will post a couple pics when I get home.

The connector and wire go all the way into the housing where I can see the entire tab and it does not pop up.

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from budfrog80:

I will post a couple pics when I get home.
The connector and wire go all the way into the housing where I can see the entire tab and it does not pop up.

Stupid question: are you sure you have the connector oriented correctly when inserting it into the housing?

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from budfrog80:

I will post a couple pics when I get home.
The connector and wire go all the way into the housing where I can see the entire tab and it does not pop up.

On alot of those .100 connectors I find that I really need to get some good pressure to get the pin in all the way for the tab to pop. Sometimes it slides right in but you need to make sure the wire isn't bending and causing it to not go in all the way and even push it in a bit with a small screwdriver or something. If you took care getting the original ones out the new ones should all go in.

How did you remove the original pins that were in there? Did you press down the lock tabs or just pull them out?

Another dumb question...are you trying to get those pins into the IDC connectors? Those you need a special tool to punch the wire into directly and you can't use those with the crimp pins.

#25 1 year ago

Well…..turns out it was a silly mistake after all. The .100 connectors are slightly shorter than the .156 and when I positioned the end at the edge on the crimper, the tab that sticks up was getting pushed flat every time. I have attached a picture to show how close the tab is to the “teeth” of the crimper.

Thanks everyone for the help today. I learned a few things. Can be a frustrating hobby at times…..

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#26 1 year ago

CPU, J2 playfield switch strobe connector.

#27 1 year ago

LCSC has tin over brass long mating length 0.100" headers classic bally uses at like 10% the cost of the molex brand.

I love my fancy racheting crimping for 0.156" but I still use the cheap 1026CT aka BCT1 for 0.1" crimps. They are just too small and fiddly to do in the ratcheting crimper or I need more practice.

#28 1 year ago

I knew I was only going to be doing one or two games worth of connectors at the most in the forseeable future on my 'keepers' so I went with a basic crimper. I could drop my coke-bottle glasses down my nose (then I'm like a human microscope) and make sure the pin was placed just right in the crimper before squeezing the handles. Even then I manage to screw one up here and there by not paying enough attention.

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