(Topic ID: 233969)

Sound stopped on Eight Ball Deluxe LE


By Daditude

2 years ago

Topic Heartbeat


Topic Stats

  • 33 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by newbieinKC
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 2 years ago

My sound stopped working on an Eight Ball Deluxe LE that I just got (within hours of purchase). There is no music and no voice sounds. When I turn up the volune I hear very light static. I do not have a manual.

What steps do I need to go through to check it? Any suggestions?

#2 2 years ago

Relax, don't panic. It was working a few hours ago? Check for a loose cable connection. Also, the connector header on the Squawk and Talk often loosens up over time. It may need to be re soldered.

Go online and order a manual. You'll need it to maintain your game. In the meanwhile you can download it here. https://www.ipdb.org/files/762/Bally_1981_Eight_Ball_Deluxe_English_Manual_includes_paginated_schematics.pdf

#3 2 years ago

Maybe i should see if anyone on pinside has a manual

#4 2 years ago

I will try to check connections when I get home.

Any other advice?

#5 2 years ago

There are two pots on the squawk and talk board. Twist them to and fro a few times. Could just be dirty. I had that problem with my machine that would squawk but not talk.

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from newbieinKC:

There are two pots on the squawk and talk board. Twist them to and fro a few times. Could just be dirty. I had that problem with my machine that would squawk but not talk.

Is there any chance you have a pic of these 2 areas you are mentioning

#7 2 years ago

The two black discs next to the big capacitor with the phillips/flat head. Top right quadrant of the board, as it is installed in my machine (lower right quadrant in picture).

The left one in the picture controls the squawk volume and the right one controls the talk volume (clockwise is louder and there should be a stop at top and bottom). Do the same for the pot on the coin door. Sometimes just flipping it back and forth will at least let you know that the board works. If you are hearing a hum or static, then your speaker is not totally dead.

If you start getting sound when you operate the pots, then use air (or contact cleaner from what some people say) to clean the pots and see if you are back in business. If it is still intermittent, consider changing the pots. I had no talk on my board until I went low/high volume about 6-8 times and used clean compressed air (canned air, if you will) to blow out the pot. I knew I was in business when the talk was initially intermittent and faint but continued to clear up as I "cleaned" it.

Also, wiggle around the connectors a little bit to see if you can find a pin bank that has a solder joint that is going bad. Sort of a DIY television repair method, but it can help narrow down things in a hurry if you jiggle something and it starts to work at least intermittently.

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#8 2 years ago

I think i need a step by step list to check (sound check for dummies)

I tried to check the pots on the board and the coin door and no luck.

I dont see any wires disconnected.

#9 2 years ago

There is a humming sound to it, so i guess thats good.

#10 2 years ago

Can anyone give me a pic of the squak box when everything is plugged in properly?

#11 2 years ago

Buy a cap kit from Great Plains. Worth every penny just for the peace of mind alone and longevity. Buy new pots too. Then you will be the BMOC!

#12 2 years ago

First of all, is your s&t board fully booting? When you turn on your game, watch the led on your sound board. You should get one quick flash then 5 flashes of the led. If you don’t get 5 flashes, you won’t have sound.

Check on how many flashes and report back.

#13 2 years ago

I tested and recorded both the S&T board and the main board. I cannot upload here for some reason.

The S&T box led blinks once...pauses...blinks 3 times quickly...pauses...blinks 2 times quickly.

The main led does a half blink...full blink...pauses...then 6 blinks

#14 2 years ago

Here are some pics:

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#15 2 years ago

OK that's good. Your s&t board is booting correctly. Make sure the two potentiometers on the s&t board are adjusted to the mid position and then adjust the potentiometer mounted on the inside of the door clockwise until the sound is where your comfortable. If no sound check the two pin connector on J2, speaker connector, and the connection to the speaker itself. If still no sound, I would recap the board. Looks like those caps are the originals.

Hope that helps?

#17 2 years ago

Aaaaaand....now the flippers aren't working....

#18 2 years ago

Here is my S&T board inside Eight Ball Champ. The bottom connector is on pins 1-15 and the top connector is on pins 1-7. Different games may have different setups, so YMMV. My machine uses the 6803 Control Board and Power Supply, so it likely has different connections.

In light of recent events, start with your power module/rectifier board and check your voltages and fuses first. S&T board and flippers are not closely related electrically.
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#19 2 years ago

You can find a manual on google, but it is better IMO to get an original if you can find one. The schematics seem to get fuzzy on the copies.

Like I mentioned earlier, the flippers are going to be a different issue altogether. The flippers, I believe, are powered by pin 8 and 9 on the J1 connector on your A3 Power supply. Check fuse F4. It should be at least 250V and exactly 5A slow-blo (not AGC, but could be AG but probably MDL). If it is blown and the correct fuse is in, I would start with the flipper solenoids, switches and do a little bit of investigation before just putting in a new fuse.

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#20 2 years ago

If you are going to be fixing this yourself, I have a deal for you. I ordered a back box tech chart for my game from Marco. They picked the wrong one from the shelf and sent me one for your game. I offered to return it, but they told me to keep it. I don't plan on using it. I will mail it to you if you think you will use it. Send me a pm with your address.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DOC1194-TC

#21 2 years ago
Quoted from newbieinKC:

If you are going to be fixing this yourself, I have a deal for you. I ordered a back box tech chart for my game from Marco. They picked the wrong one from the shelf and sent me one for your game. I offered to return it, but they told me to keep it. I don't plan on using it. I will mail it to you if you think you will use it. Send me a pm with your address.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DOC1194-TC

Awesome! Thank you! I will message now.

#22 2 years ago

Does anyone have more pics of the sqwauk and talk? Especially the caps?

#23 2 years ago

Great Plains Electronics will sell you a cap set for cheap. Also helpful is that they list what the OEM cap was so you can compare what is on your board.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY-STE-KIT

Edit: currently out of stock

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from newbieinKC:

Great Plains Electronics will sell you a cap set for cheap. Also helpful is that they list what the OEM cap was so you can compare what is on your board.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY-STE-KIT
Edit: currently out of stock

Though they're out of kits, Ed still lists all the caps the board uses and which ones he carries and recommends as upgrades or replacements--the link newbieinKC posted has all that info.

#25 2 years ago

I have gone through it and i just cant seem to find the issue. My next step may be to change the caps...but i find it strange that it worked just fine (from a trusted seller and i played it quite a few times before buying), and within hours of me getting it home it stopped working.

Maybe there is something i am overlooking.

#26 2 years ago

When you moved it, did you take off the backboard or just fold it down? Seems like there must be a bad connection somewhere. Post pics of your board and how it is hooked up to the APU and Power Transformer.

#27 2 years ago
Quoted from newbieinKC:

When you moved it, did you take off the backboard or just fold it down? Seems like there must be a bad connection somewhere. Post pics of your board and how it is hooked up to the APU and Power Transformer.

I just folded it down. I will put up some pics

#28 2 years ago
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#29 2 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I just folded it down. I will put up some pics

It is probably not this way for all Bally machines, but my model seems to be famous for having short leads. If I fold down the backboard, several of the wiring harnesses get tight. I would probably risk either disconnecting something or possibly damaging pins on the control board if I moved my machine with the backboard just laying down.

#30 2 years ago
Quoted from newbieinKC:

It is probably not this way for all Bally machines, but my model seems to be famous for having short leads. If I fold down the backboard, several of the wiring harnesses get tight. I would probably risk either disconnecting something or possibly damaging pins on the control board if I moved my machine with the backboard just laying down.

Sorry, i was just talking to soneone about a different pin and i overlapped. This pin doesnt fold down. I had to get a truck to transport it.

#31 2 years ago

I don't have a good manual that I can read for your machine, but I was able to read the test points for the S&T board:
TP1- GND
2:+5VDC
3:+11.5VDC
4:-5VDC

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#32 2 years ago

Right at the bottom of this thread is a link to the cap kit.

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#33 2 years ago

In the 6th and 7th picture down, is the black "curly q" next to the bottom left connector a sharpie mark on the board or a stray wire? Hard to tell for sure on the pictures...

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