Sound problems on CFTBL


By Mavmav

3 weeks ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by gunstarhero
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 22 days ago

    Hello guys!
    I got my Creature from the Black Lagoon this week and the first problem arrived together!!!
    I turned the machine on and the sound is super loud!!! It's on the 14. I tried to turn it down, but if it is lower (like 13, 12, etc) or upper (15,16, etc) it gets mute!
    The problem is... the sound is super loud... really, impossible to play inside the apartment.
    My options... super loud or mute.
    Can someone help me?!? Any tips?!?
    I reassembled the logic cable on the soundboard and changed the batteries on the main board... without success.
    Help me guys... I was waiting for this machine and I want to play it so badly!!!
    Thanks!!!

    #2 22 days ago

    Huh. Reseat the connectors in the backbox, especially the ones around the sound board?

    #3 22 days ago
    Quoted from gunstarhero:

    Huh. Reseat the connectors in the backbox, especially the ones around the sound board?

    Hi, I tried already... and nothing! It was my first try as always... disconnect and reconnect everything!
    But no success... unfortunately.
    Anything that I could try to test on the board maybe??? How????
    Thanks for your help!!!!

    #4 22 days ago

    Everyone at your apartment building must wondering who needs to move their car.

    #5 22 days ago

    3o. When things don't work: Sound Problems.
    The sound on WPC games is very robust; it just doesn't fail too often. But here are some things that do fail related to sound:
    Re-seat all the sound board ribbon cables. Surprisingly, this fixes a large number of WPC sound problems!
    Bad rectifier diodes on the sound board. Often these become leaky and can cause intermittent problems before they total short.
    Speakers blown: yes this happens more often than you might think. If the game was in a noisey arcade, the volume could be up so loud it blows the speakers. You can test the speakers (with the game off) using a 9 volt battery. Momentarily hook the battery up to the leads of the speaker. You will hear the speaker cone pull in if the speaker is good, when you attach the battery to the speaker. Make sure you check the speaker in the bottom of the cabinet too. Often if one speaker is blown, the others will not work.
    Main amplifier is bad: the sound board uses a LM1875 as the main amplifier. This device has a large heat sink attached to it. Often, this component has heat failure. The sound works fine until the game warms up for five minutes or so. Then the sound starts cutting in and out. You can use a logic probe on the leads of the LM1875. If the probe's beeps correspond to the cut in sound on one of the leads, the LM1875 is probably bad.
    If the LM1875 isn't at fault, check both of the op-amps too. Depending on the revision of the sound board (DCS or pre-DCS), these audio amps can effect a certain type of sound they amplify.
    On DCS games, the DAC for the DSP chip dies, and the TDA2030 amps are pretty fragile too.
    Volume up FULL and Can't turn it Down.
    The volume control on all WPC games is electronic. On pre-WPC95 games, this is controlled by an electronic prom pot. This E-pot is a X9503, at location U5 on the sound board. If turning the volume up or down has no effect, and the volume is stuck on full blast, this is the first component that should be checked. Also the capacitor C18 (47 mfd, 25 volts) that connects to the E-pot can fail too, and should be checked.

    Lots of Static.
    Problem sound boards can produce a large amount of static. The TL084 quad Op-Amp (U21 on WPC-S and prior) can be the cause of this. Also the TDA2030 amp can also cause this. Finally the large filtering 1000 mfd 35 volt capacitors can also be the problem. Finally check for cracked solder joints on these 1000 mfd caps (solder jumper wires, as done to the bridge rectifiers explained earlier).

    #6 22 days ago
    Quoted from jfre81:

    Everyone at your apartment building must wondering who needs to move their car.

    kkkkkkkkk... for sure! kkkkk

    #7 22 days ago
    Quoted from gunstarhero:

    Volume up FULL and Can't turn it Down.
    The volume control on all WPC games is electronic. On pre-WPC95 games, this is controlled by an electronic prom pot. This E-pot is a X9503, at location U5 on the sound board. If turning the volume up or down has no effect, and the volume is stuck on full blast, this is the first component that should be checked. Also the capacitor C18 (47 mfd, 25 volts) that connects to the E-pot can fail too, and should be checked.

    Thanks again Gunstarhero,

    I was reading about this... but sorry, how can I test this "U5"???

    I have a multimeter... but I will need some help!!! kkkkk... Sorry... I have some skills... but not related to electronic components!

    I need to test the U5 and the capacitor C18... can you help me with that?

    I will appreciate your help!!! Thanks!

    #8 22 days ago

    I'm reading and searching a lot... and I found this old post:

    I had a similar (same referenced chip) issue on an Addams Family.
    I documented the Error and fix and pictures here:

    http://purcellvillepinball.com/BallyWilliamsRepairs.html

    Search for "U5".

    But in summary:
    SYMPTOM

    The volume is very loud and not controlled by the service switch.
    RESOLUTION

    I sent an email on RGP and Chris Hibler responded that the digital pot X9503 is probably bad. I took it off and replaced with a socket and new chip and it worked great. Thanks Chris!

    The U5 X9503 chip was removed and replaced with a socket and new chip.

    Hope this helps.

    #10 20 days ago

    Thanks for the links! I'm reading a lot!!!
    Btw, I bought the x9503 (U5) and the capacitor (C18)... as soon they arrive, I will change it.... and I will let guys know!!! Thanks for your help! I appreciate that! Danke!!!!

    #11 18 days ago

    One doubt...

    The U5 (e-pot X9503)... to change it... I need to desolder or is just to pop up and insert the new one????

    Thanks!!!!

    #12 18 days ago

    Is this one...

    2018-01-28 10.05.41 (resized).jpg

    #13 18 days ago

    You will need to desolder it. Be careful, the traces are delicate. No prying.
    I'm fairly convinced that the IC has failed. Even though I try to save the IC, the easiest way to get it out is to use a sharp side cutter to cut the legs then remove each leg individually.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    #14 18 days ago
    Quoted from ChrisHibler:

    You will need to desolder it. Be careful, the traces are delicate. No prying.
    I'm fairly convinced that the IC has failed. Even though I try to save the IC, the easiest way to get it out is to use a sharp side cutter to cut the legs then remove each leg individually.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ - This guy knows his shit.

    Get yourself a solid desoldering gun - DO NOT try the desoldering rope and iron trick - it will end badly for you.

    Buy one of these and don't look back. Practice on a spare PCB before doing it on this one.

    amazon.com link »

    If you boo boo the sound board, you'll either be sending to someone like Chris or buying a PinSound board as the factory sound boards are very hard to find and $$$$$$$$ if you do.

    Good luck!

    1 week later
    #15 5 days ago

    Hello!!!

    I made it.... it is working perfect again!!!

    It was pretty easy to change it! For my surprise, I made a clear and professional work!!!

    The problem was the U5 as we suspected.

    For exactly 3.99 euros I solved the problem! I'm super happy!!!

    Thanks for the tips!!! You guys rock!!!!

    Thanks again!

    #16 5 days ago

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    #17 5 days ago
    Quoted from ChrisHibler:

    You will need to desolder it. Be careful, the traces are delicate. No prying.
    I'm fairly convinced that the IC has failed. Even though I try to save the IC, the easiest way to get it out is to use a sharp side cutter to cut the legs then remove each leg individually.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    Your tips helped me a lot! Thanks!

    #18 5 days ago
    Quoted from Mavmav:

    Your tips helped me a lot! Thanks!

    Nice work my friend!
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

    #19 5 days ago

    Good to hear! Awesome job!

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