(Topic ID: 326734)

Sound issue and start button not working

By Wiggy

1 year ago



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#1 1 year ago

I got a few issues with my shadow.

First, the start button stopped working.
I noticed after i bought it I had some battery dmg on a few connectors and pins, as seen in the picturs. Can that be related to my problems?
I also noticed the solder job on chip U18 looks a bit jiffy..

Second, the game plays the wrong sound effects now and then. Its not random, its every time.

I will post a few video that shows a few of them.
One is from where I start the game and the test menue. I doubt its supposed to sound like that?

One shows the game saying "super jackpot" when I cancle the buy-in.

And one shows where the Music goes away during game and doesnt comeback till the ball drains.

There are more call outs that comes at the time, like 6 way combo, jackpot and a few others.

And finally I, cant adjust the volume at all, its stuck. Not up and not down.

Thoughts?

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#2 1 year ago



#3 1 year ago

Battery acid (alkaline) damage can do lots of bad things on your computer board.

Every time someone has a weird switch problem now my first thought is 'Battery Acid (alkaline) damage?'

Particularly with the front door stuff, the start button, the volume up and down, I'm thinking that you'll need to get a new CPU board, or do a LOT of work replacing stuff on your current CPU board.

Worse than that, you'll probably have to re-pin at least some of those connectors, and maybe strip the wire back a couple of inches to get past where the corrosion has crept into the wiring.

Sound board playing the wrong sound, that's usually the ribbon cable the one that has like 5 connectors. Reseat that on all the boards it connects.

However, it's the big square chip that sends the signals through the ribbon cable to the sound board, and I've had some of the big square chips damaged by battery acid (alkaline). When you get your new board, make sure nothing looks grey, grey-green or fuzzy on the chips you transfer to the new PCB.

The volume not changing at all, that might be it's own issue, but you'll need working CPU, Ribbon Cable, Test Switches, etc. to test it.

Battery acid (alkaline) damage is insidious! Get that fixed first, and I suspect most of your problems or possibly all of your problems will be resolved.

Let us know how this goes!

#4 1 year ago

Here is a good reference for reading.

WPC-089MPULayout (resized).jpgWPC-089MPULayout (resized).jpg
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#5 1 year ago

I found some jumpers on the backside of the cpu.
Whats the idea behind these?

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#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

I found some jumpers on the backside of the cpu.
Whats the idea behind these?

fixing a broken trace.... now, WHY the trace is broken would be interesting. Do the chips look to have been replaced? Someone damaged a through hole most likely when doing so (wpc traces are relatively fragile).

If they were replacing the chips because of battery damage, there might be unmediated alkaline under the replaced chips.

#7 1 year ago

Some basics about board repair.

Boards have chips, other components, and connectors. Everything on the board is there for a reason, and everything needs to be connected by tiny little copper 'traces' that are covered by green conformal coating.

Sometimes the copper traces get broken. Sometimes the 'pad' where a component is soldered to doesn't make good connection to the trace. Sometimes the solder is cracked, or just poorly done and doesn't make connection.

So technicians install 'bug wires' or 'jumpers' to put a piece of wire that connects something that needs to be connected. This is done in addition to the traces that should be doing the same thing, but for some reason aren't.

Specifically, the jumper you have on your board is connecting switch row 2 to the component D4. At some point, something wasn't making connection, the technician put an additional wire to make sure it was connected. This work was probably done at the same time that they replaced U18.

Now, add battery acid (alkaline). This stuff eats away at the traces, at the solder connection, and gets inside the components themselves. It gets on the metal of the pins of the connectors, it gets inside the connectors, and it gets inside the wire. It eats away at the metal, and makes things not make connection.

The first instinct would be Switch Line 2 isn't making connection to D4. Just put a jumper to make sure that is making connection. And if battery acid (alkaline) weren't involved that would be a long lasting repair if you do proper soldering.

But with battery acid (alkaline) it's still a repair... but the acid is present in other places, and going to be causing you problems eventually everywhere there is enough acid (alkaline) to make something not make connection. So fixing a connection to make sure that pin 2 on J208 and J209 is properly connected is great... but if all the pins on all six of the bottom connections are grey, greyish-green or have white powder on them, you've got fifty other pins with creeping problems that might show up later.

My friend Lenny says 'Replace all the grey stuff with shiny stuff', and yeah, you can do that. You can use a mild acid to counteract the alkaline (a lot of people try vinegar), you can replace all the diodes and resistors and chips that have tarnished pins. It's a lot of work, but you can get years more use out of your board, or maybe your board will work nearly forever after you've done the acid (alkaline) remediation.

Board repair guys do this.

Depending on the state of the board, I've bought replacement CPU boards for six out of the last eight battery acid (alkaline) compromised boards I've had go through my shop. Even after replacing the board, the wired plug connectors on the bottom need to be replaced if they have grey, grey-ish green, or white powder on them. Battery acid (alkaline) is insidious. It creeps through the wires to cause you problems later.

Your board is compromised. Getting the board fixed or replaced is your next step towards a working pinball.

Good luck!

#8 1 year ago

to get that fixed will be $125 to $150, new one is $200. i wouldn't bother with this

#9 1 year ago

Your J208 pins still have alkaline (not acid) damage. J212 header pin 1 also looks damaged as well as the wired connector for J212 looks very suspicious too.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
I never seen a case where battery corrosion in the switch matrix would cause sounds issues like yours, especially just entering the test menu.

Therefore, I think it is a separate issue. Try this...

2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png
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