Sound and Ball Release Issues - Williams Blackout

(Topic ID: 230997)

Sound and Ball Release Issues - Williams Blackout

By blackoutmatt

12 days ago

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  • 4 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by Schwaggs
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


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#1 12 days ago

Hey folks,

I've been slowly but surely restoring this machine to get it up and running. It's been fun yet challenging since I didn't know anything about pinball machines about a year ago. I've started having an issue with the sound messing up when I'm playing. Also, after a few games the automatic ball release doesn't kick the ball over to the right to launch with plunger. I used to just kind of bump the machine and then the ball would kick. Now that no longer does the trick so I've messed around located the wires/plug that I believe to be the culprit. It's the second plug down on the right side of the driver board (2J3 Switch Rows?). I think it might be the second wire from the top which is labeled KEY. I'm not sure if this is entirely accurate but when the ball gets stuck below the flippers I just touch that wire the ball kicks to the plunger. Can I replace this plug and/or make sure the connections are good? I'm not sure how to check or crimp these connections.

I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the sound malfunctioning. Sometimes the "Code Red" sound that is suppose to come on when I hit all three red pop ups sometimes say "orbit completed". This is the only sound I recognize that seems crossed. "Orbit completed" still works when it's suppose to (when you hit the left ramp and it goes all the way down the right ramp - when both spinners are hit back to back). The other sound problems I have are the background noise sometimes doesn't come on or every sounds distorted or something.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks for your help in advance.


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#2 12 days ago

it could be the connector. I use 0.156 Molex to replace the IDC connector. Most of the times though it is cold solder on the driver board itself. That is remedied be reflowing the header pins.

Recap and reflow your sound board as well. Then see what problems you have.

#3 12 days ago

You'll get better replies on one of the Solid State forums. This is Electro Mechanical.

#4 12 days ago


Step one is to pull the board and reflow solder to all the pins on all the boards. Better yet, replace them with new header pins.

If that does not work, replace the IDC connector with molex KK series housing with trifuricon crimp-on connectors.

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