Sorcerer - You are done, mortal!


By gutz

8 months ago


Stats

  • 82 posts
  • 25 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 months ago by CyberNinja24
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

Find

Search this topic for posts matching certain words or written by a specific Pinsider. Or both!




Linked Games



Topic Gallery

There have been 93 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20170827_173313 (resized).jpg
20170827_173154 (resized).jpg
20170827_173402 (resized).jpg
20170823_000412 (resized).jpg
20170822_224221 (resized).jpg
20170822_224018 (resized).jpg
20170823_000054 (resized).jpg
20170822_101423 (resized).jpg
20170818_012255 (resized).jpg
20170817_000817 (resized).jpg
20170817_224028 (resized).jpg
20170817_195342 (resized).jpg
20170818_221754 (resized).jpg
20170814_225015 (resized).jpg
20170814_224833 (resized).jpg
20170814_223354 (resized).jpg


There are 82 posts in topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 4 months ago
Quoted from tominator:

So in my sorcerer manual it says solenoid 14 is not used...
When I run a solenoid test, nothing happens on 14...
Why is this coil there if it's not used?
How can I get it working?

The manual list #14 as unused but there is a coil number for it. (I think it was 14, but I cant check until the game is back together.)
Not really important what # it is because if its not working the solenoid test can't tell you why. Inspect that the wires are securely soldered to the lugs and the plunger is free to move. That coil isn't original but it will probably be ok. The coil sleeve (that is sneaking out the top) is definitely wrong. You need a flanged coil sleeve, the current one might be binding the plunger.

Get out your multimeter and measure the dc volts on each lug of the solenoid with the game in attract mode. Black lead on the big metal backing plate, red lead on each lug. Each lug should have around 30vdc solenoid power. If missing power on both = power to the solenoid is broken (probably a wiring issue since the other solenoids work. Trace the larger red wire back). If missing on one, the small coil winding is broke on the solenoid leaving the coil "open".

If power is good and still in attract mode, grab an alligator clip and momentarily (quickly!) touch the coil lug with the non banded side of the diode - with the smaller wire - to ground (metal backing plate). If the coil fires, the coil is good. If it doesn't fire, there is not power or the coil winding is broken (determined from previous step). Now move the alligator clip and momentarily ground the metal tab of the drive transistor for that coil. If it fires, then you know the wires are good. If not, the smaller wire to the coil is broken.

If the above tests check out, and it still doesn't work in game, then you have drive transistor issues on the mpu.

#52 4 months ago
Quoted from gutz:

The manual list #14 as unused but there is a coil number for it. (I think it was 14, but I cant check until the game is back together.)
Not really important what # it is because if its not working the solenoid test can't tell you why. Inspect that the wires are securely soldered to the lugs and the plunger is free to move. That coil isn't original but it will probably be ok. The coil sleeve (that is sneaking out the top) is definitely wrong. You need a flanged coil sleeve, the current one might be binding the plunger.
Get out your multimeter and measure the dc volts on each lug of the solenoid with the game in attract mode. Black lead on the big metal backing plate, red lead on each lug. Each lug should have around 30vdc solenoid power. If missing power on both = power to the solenoid is broken (probably a wiring issue since the other solenoids work. Trace the larger red wire back). If missing on one, the small coil winding is broke on the solenoid leaving the coil "open".
If power is good and still in attract mode, grab an alligator clip and momentarily (quickly!) touch the coil lug with the non banded side of the diode - with the smaller wire - to ground (metal backing plate). If the coil fires, the coil is good. If it doesn't fire, there is not power or the coil winding is broken (determined from previous step). Now move the alligator clip and momentarily ground the metal tab of the drive transistor for that coil. If it fires, then you know the wires are good. If not, the smaller wire to the coil is broken.
If the above tests check out, and it still doesn't work in game, then you have drive transistor issues on the mpu.

Cool!
Thank you gutz...appreciate it.
Will test and report back.

#53 4 months ago
Quoted from tominator:

Cool!
Thank you gutz...appreciate it.
Will test and report back.

Ok so the coil fires when I do the alligator clip test from the board...
So the coil and wiring are good. It does not fire when I win a free game though...
Does that mean I need board work? Or could it be in the game settings?

#54 4 months ago
Quoted from gutz:

sanity check

Holy SMOKES that looks great as bare wood for this theme.
mof

#55 4 months ago
Quoted from tominator:

Ok so the coil fires when I do the alligator clip test from the board...
So the coil and wiring are good. It does not fire when I win a free game though...
Does that mean I need board work? Or could it be in the game settings?

I don't think it's a setting, but double check. Probably a transistor issue on the mpu. Test the drive and predrive transistor for that coil using the diode function on your meter. Compare readings to the known working transistors for the other coils.

#56 4 months ago

Great job!

1 week later
#57 3 months ago

Working on the head pieces. I think the h channel takes the cake for "rustiest" piece, chunks were flying off. Speaker panel needs to be recovered due to the extra holes from the auxiliary corner brackets.

20170814_223354 (resized).jpg

20170814_224833 (resized).jpg

20170814_225015 (resized).jpg

20170818_221754 (resized).jpg

#58 3 months ago

First time making/using stencils. Decided to go cheap and make my own. Tracing paper, carbon paper, tag board and exacto knife. They stencils looked good but didn't work so good

20170817_195342 (resized).jpg

20170817_224028 (resized).jpg

20170817_000817 (resized).jpg

#59 3 months ago

Bravo, well done.

#60 3 months ago

The stenciling process was somewhere between fiasco and disaster. It being my first go around, I thought I would get somewhat clean lines from the stencils if I had them weighted/pinned down. That was not the case and I had major overspray issues and many blurry/messy edges on the yellow. Tried to compensate on the orange and wound up putting it on too thick and the paint haloed under. There was a lot of paint to remove with naphta and it had to be touched up afterwards. This is the left side after cleanup but before touch ups. Good from far, but far from good...

20170818_012255 (resized).jpg

#61 3 months ago

Right side still had the underspray issue but the orange came out better....until the orange stencil boogered up the yellow layer upon removal Even more paint removal and touch up to add to the fiasco
Pic of right side after touchups.

20170822_101423 (resized).jpg

#62 3 months ago

They look ok, but for the effort required I hoped they would have turned out better. I guess I got what I paid for by making stencils out of tag board I'm going with frisket/sticker stencils next time.

When I decided to make a new back box I was worried that the art would look too new/ perfect compared to the original lower cab. That's probably not an issue anymore

#63 3 months ago
Quoted from gutz:

They look ok, but for the effort required I hoped they would have turned out better. I guess I got what I paid for by making stencils out of tag board I'm going with frisket/sticker stencils next time.
When I decided to make a new back box I was worried that the art would look too new/ perfect compared to the original lower cab. That's probably not an issue anymore

Whole project looks amazing. The artist will always see their own mistakes. The viewer will be clueless and the critic is just being an arse.

Glad you found a silver lining

#64 3 months ago

Backbox coming back together. Speaker panel looks much better after new cloth and paint.

20170823_000054 (resized).jpg

20170822_224018 (resized).jpg

#65 3 months ago

Had a decent color match to the faded colors with off the shelf paint.

20170822_224221 (resized).jpg

#66 3 months ago

There's a sight for sore eyes...

20170823_000412 (resized).jpg

#67 3 months ago

Looks good.

Did you consider painting the speaker grill channels black?

#68 3 months ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Looks good.
Did you consider painting the speaker grill channels black?

Not really, just went for a stock look. The bottom track isn't painted, all the rusty parts weren't visible so I just removed the rust and polished the lip. The h channel (its lower case h) was completely rusted, and I went silver metallic paint. The silver helps hide how bent up the lift trim is on the glass. Silver trim kind of matches the mirror bordering on the display windows, too, but maybe that's a stretch.

It might look pretty slick with blacked out metal and black lift trim

#69 3 months ago
Quoted from gutz:

It might look pretty slick with blacked out metal and black lift trim

That's what I was thinking.

#70 3 months ago

You are done, Sorcerer. I am master!

20170827_173402 (resized).jpg

20170827_173154 (resized).jpg

20170827_173313 (resized).jpg

12
#71 3 months ago

If you're wondering why go through so much work for this machine, here is the backstory:

Six or seven years ago I was really bored at work and decided to do something I rarely do: check eBay for pinball machines. In my area, there were never games on eBay within 300 miles let alone the fact none of the listed machines are ever reasonably priced-even back then. You could still find decent deals on parts, as it was before the days of the $40 rubber kits and $30 fuse kits that eBay is now flooded with. After searching for parts for every machine I owned, I decide to search "pinball machine" and sort the results according to proximity.

To my surprise, the first result is an auction within 20 miles for 2 machines: sorcerer and laser cue. The pictures weren't very detailed but they showed two folded up machines with no backglasses. They looked rough, but it was hard to tell how bad they were. It just looked like the glass was filthy. It was a no reserve auction with zero bids, so I decide to throw my hat in the ring and became the high bidder for the handsome price of $0.99.

The last few days of the auction pass by and my original bid weathered the storm and I was the winner for $0.99.

My brother in law and I go to pickup the machines and meet the previous owner. The seller is a collector, and was in the process of moving, and these 2 machines didn't make the cut. (I bet he is a member here, but i havent noticed him around) He explained how he bought the machines in a demolition style sale, meaning the building they were stored in was being condemned or torn down. Upon inspecting the machines, the playfield glass was missing and all that dirt was on the playfields. The cabinets had water damage and a lot of rusty metal. No backglasses, but they machines looked complete. Handed over a Washington and started loading up.

My brother thought I was crazy for going through with it. Several comments I remember on the drive home " I think you over paid", "Probably shouldn't strap these down too tight, you'd be better off letting them fall off the truck" and finally "want me to back up to the garage or burn pit?"

And then they sat, kept hidden away as my dirty little secret. I found used backglasses on ebay, and other parts over the years and stashed them away. But I never started these projects because they were going to require so much work. About 150 video and pinball machines have bumped these 2 machines in the repair/restore que (because they were shorter projects) over last seven years. But this last spring, I was down to the bitter end of the pile...and so sorcerer began, and laser cue is next.

So why save them? It's a cool story to say you bought a game for $0.50...as long as you don't say that you eventually paid about the going rate for a working machine after you tally restoration costs.

Why save them? The artwork by Pam Erickson! What are the odds that the only 2 games she worked on were rotting side by side all these years? It was an eerie coincidence.

Why save them? Sometimes you want to find your limits. What level of hell makes a game beyond saving? I wanted to see how far I could bring a game back. I wouldn't make a habit of all my projects being this large, but I still grin when I hear "FEEL MY POWER".

#72 3 months ago

Impressive project. Great story!

#73 3 months ago
Quoted from gutz:

The stenciling process was somewhere between fiasco and disaster.

I have done a few cabinets and for the time and effort to get it to look good I just pay the Pinball Pimp for his stencils. Vinyl is the way to go. Clean lines and no overspray. Better then factory

#74 3 months ago
Quoted from Tallon:

I have done a few cabinets and for the time and effort to get it to look good I just pay the Pinball Pimp for his stencils. Vinyl is the way to go. Clean lines and no overspray. Better then factory

If I was doing the full cabinet, that would have been my route. Since I only did the head, I decided to try it. It looks fine, but it was a lot of work to make them look 'fine'. PP will be the way I go next time, its worth the cost

#75 3 months ago

Bravo!!
You've done it again Gutz!!
Well done.

#76 3 months ago

So cool. Love the fact you got them for a buck. Can't wait for the Laser Que restore.

#77 3 months ago

Amazing! Love the fact you did all this work to save this specimen. It's an awesome game for sure!

#78 3 months ago

Awesome game and project! I sold mine about 2yrs ago and basically wanted it back as soon as it left. Thankfully I kept in touch with the buyer and I am buying it back this week. Quick question - i wouldn't mind putting a new coin door on it when I get it back...I can't seem to find any system 9 doors anywhere....anyone know where to get new ones? Do sys 11 ones fit?

#79 3 months ago
Quoted from adamsebas:

Awesome game and project! I sold mine about 2yrs ago and basically wanted it back as soon as it left. Thankfully I kept in touch with the buyer and I am buying it back this week. Quick question - i wouldn't mind putting a new coin door on it when I get it back...I can't seem to find any system 9 doors anywhere....anyone know where to get new ones? Do sys 11 ones fit?

It is a coin co brand coin door. Many video arcade games also used them (in the US). Probably won't find them new. I would think a system 11 would fit, but I cannot confirm that.

1 week later
#80 3 months ago

Yeah ok...thanks! Actually, I go the game back and door is better than I thought. Might not bother replacing. Forgot how good the game play is. I love it...short ball times, fast, good simple rules that are hard to master. All that mixed with killer artwork and sounds makes this one of the best in my opini
on!

1 week later
#81 86 days ago

Sequels are never as good, but Laser Cue is in even worst shape: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/laser-cue-a-foolish-rustoration#post-3971947

#82 81 days ago

Looking forward to the sequel.
I predict this sequel will be just as good if not better than the original.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 21.00
€ 3.95
Flipper Parts
Multigame
From: $ 14.95
$ 400.00
Boards
Great American Pinball
$ 1.95
Various Novelties
Pinball Wheezer
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
From: $ 42.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 128.00
Playfield - Other
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Just 3D Mods
$ 19.95
$ 175.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
$ 90.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 194.99
$ 269.99
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 21.95
Apparel - Unisex
Pinball Wheezer
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 130.00
There are 82 posts in topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Sign up for a Pinside account, or log in if you already have an account.


Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside