(Topic ID: 252565)

Sorcerer Right flipper locked on and Error code 7

By FatPanda

4 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by FatPanda
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

I took out the playfield from my Sorcerer to install new leg brackets. After the job was done, I put the playfield back in, checked all connections and turned on the game. The game now shows error code 7 and the right flipper is locked on. I'm not sure what happened, as it's a pretty straight forward job to disconnect and remove the playfield, then reinstall the playfield and reconnect.

I'm not the greatest schematic reader. Am I correct in suspecting Relay Z1 is bad (closed?) but if that were the case, wouldn't both flippers be locked on?

I did check the lugs and wiring on the right coil and they looked ok. On the left coil, it looks like the diode was replaced at one point since the leads were long. I did see that (maybe during the move) that a lead on the diode might have been touching the center lug on the coil. I moved it out of the way. I haven't checked to cabinet switches yet to see if I might have bent the switch tabs and now they're touching, but I'll do that when I get a chance. What is 8L24 on the schematic and could that be the culprit? What are your thoughts? Could it be as simple as replacing the diode on the right flipper?

The other issue I'm coming up with is Error code 7. I've seen this come up before and the steps I took were to reflow solder on the header pins, and re-seat the game ROMs. I played a couple dozen games since then with no issue, and now it's appearing again. Do you think the two problems are related?

Sorcerer flipper schem (resized).jpgSorcerer flipper schem (resized).jpg
#2 4 years ago

On a game without solid state flippers like sorcerer, the flipper can only ever be on if the cab switch is closed or there's a short somewhere.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

On a game without solid state flippers like sorcerer, the flipper can only ever be on if the cab switch is closed or there's a short somewhere.

Good to know. I'll check the flipper switch. As far as shorts go, are you thinking exposed wire or touching lugs? The lugs are isolated and the diode is tight to the coil (from factory, not replaced I think).

#4 4 years ago

Did you cross up the two playfield connectors that are the same size? Look at the wire colors across the connectors, not the color of the connectors. They can, unfortunately, be plugged into the wrong spot and it frys the mpu. The tell tale sign is a locked on flipper.

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

Did you cross up the two playfield connectors that are the same size? Look at the wire colors across the connectors, not the color of the connectors. They can, unfortunately, be plugged into the wrong spot and it frys the mpu. The tell tale sign is a locked on flipper.

Crap. Not what I wanted to hear! I thought I checked the connecters, but didn't check to make sure the wire colors were the same on both sides.. There's a keying plug isn't there? I'll have to take a look.

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Crap. Not what I wanted to hear! I thought I checked the connecters, but didn't check to make sure the wire colors were the same on both sides.. There's a keying plug isn't there? I'll have to take a look.

No keying plug, its a bad design.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

No keying plug, its a bad design.

There were sharpie marks on the connectors that seemed to match up, but again, I'll have to take a look. Assuming that the connectors are the cause of the problem, if I correct it, what should I expect to see? Will it boot up properly or will there be other damage?

#8 4 years ago

I'd assume you'd have more issues if you'd crossed them.

Short could be anything really, but it's not likely. 99 percent of the time it's just the switches

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I'd assume you'd have more issues if you'd crossed them.
Short could be anything really, but it's not likely. 99 percent of the time it's just the switches

I hope you're right! Would be an easy fix.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

No keying plug, its a bad design.

Note to self: Number and mark connectors when performing Sorcerer playfield swap this Winter.

#11 4 years ago

If the playfield doesn't sit properly in the cabinet, the shooter gauge will touch the end of the right flipper button cabinet switch and ground it. That turns on the flipper!

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

If the playfield doesn't sit properly in the cabinet, the shooter gauge will touch the end of the right flipper button cabinet switch and ground it. That turns on the flipper!

The playfield sits like it normally does but another thing to check when I get home

I'm pretty sure I've checked it with the playfield up too so I don't think this is the case.

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

Did you cross up the two playfield connectors that are the same size? Look at the wire colors across the connectors, not the color of the connectors. They can, unfortunately, be plugged into the wrong spot and it frys the mpu. The tell tale sign is a locked on flipper.

These two were crossed. I switched them, verified the wire colors, and it resolved the locking flipper coil. I should have been more diligent when replugging things!

Thank you!

Now I'm dealing with error code 7, which undoubtedly is due to the plugs being crossed. I'm also going to replace this connector. It looked like this before, but the playfield lights are flickering and I'm wondering if this is also related. How do I repin the wires that are continuous and dont terminate at the pin?

Thoughts on how to proceed with Error code 7? I do smell something not good when left on for more than a minute or so.

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#14 4 years ago

New issues...great

Still getting error code 7. I noticed the 2.5A slo-blo fuse is toasted on F2 (solenoids) on the PSB. I replace it and now on power up, the knocker locks on and so does the bell.

#15 4 years ago

If you're not good at board work it might be best to just send it out for repairs. Not sure if the wiring changed on system 9 but on system 7 crossing those connectors shoots the 25V into the 5V iirc

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

If you're not good at board work it might be best to just send it out for repairs. Not sure if the wiring changed on system 9 but on system 7 crossing those connectors shoots the 25V into the 5V iirc

I saw this thread and everyone pretty much said the same thing
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/accidentally-switched-connectors-on-williams-system-9-how-bad-is-it

I can do board work, should I just go and replace everything? It's a LOT of stuff!

#17 4 years ago

Yes, it is a lot of stuff and it all needs to be replaced to get the board back 100%. Anything that can't handle the 28 volts needs to be replaced.... that's every chip. Some may have somewhat survived, but don't tear your hair out.

That sucks that the sharpie marks seemed to line up!!

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yes, it is a lot of stuff and it all needs to be replaced to get the board back 100%. Anything that can't handle the 28 volts needs to be replaced.... that's every chip. Some may have somewhat survived, but don't tear your hair out.
That sucks that the sharpie marks seemed to line up!!

The sharpie marks were a figment of my imagination for those plugs they were black and white connectors and I didnt realize it at the time. I was in a rush and wanted to get it together before heading off to do something else. A $$$ mistake, so yeah, gonna send out some PMs and get this thing repaired.

4 weeks later
#19 4 years ago

Sent out the boards to get repaired and it turned up a couple other issues that the crossed connectors caused. Mainly the left slingshot was locking on, and it turned out to be a bad switch capacitor. I will be replacing them as the slings are weaker now than they were before. Another thing that showed up was the knocker actuates immediately upon start up, but doesn't lock on (so not a big deal) and my new Wolf Pac displays now show commas 100% of the time. I have ordered a new controller chip (after talking to Dave of WolfPac) and hopefully that resolves the problem.

The game works now despite those issues.

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