Hi guys, I am a new member of the club, and I was waiting till I had my playfield all done before I said hi to show a complete before and after, but Im a bit confused and would appreciate any help.

I see on some of the safe eject holes pictured in this thread (which has been an invaluable asset in rebuilding my playfield; thank you) that the one way gate has no plastic attached to the metal flap as pictured in the manual.

as shown in my picture.

Is that plastic intrinsic to keeping the ball from shooting into low earth orbit? Should I run out to harbor freight and introduce myself to the wonderful world of rivets? I have the piece, as it came with a clear plastics set I got off ebay.

Said set also came with this other plastic which I cant find in the manual at all, anyone recognize it?

Thanks, and sorry to be such a noob.

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Appreciate the reply!

I ended up gluing it back together, tracing it out on an old clear plastic I had replaced, and using my dremel to cut it out and sand its edges down.

Also put washers on both sides of the rivet, probably overkill but its deflecting the ball perfectly every time now. Its not perfect but its buried behind the safe, so it will do till my replacement gets here.

My first time "shopping" a machine, but I am pretty happy with how its turning out.

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I got my machine from a local vendor for 2.5k, and it was heavily routed, but after a month or so of TLC I finally got the playfield done!

I wont bore you guys with a bunch of pictures, Ill just bore you with a few. Check out the mileage on the safe!

Happy with how it came out, especially as this is my first time working on a pinball table. All new roms, ColorDMD, and LED OCD and GIzmo. Not to mention I put a bunch of new parts in just about all the mechs underneath.

Little before and after I made of the LED boards for a friend, figured Id share.

Made underboos for the first time too after it was done! Next I wait on retrorefurb's decals and heal the cabinet.

ps dont laugh at my 20$ etsy topper

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Awesome! Thank you for your continued work on this.

Question for youse guys, has anyone come up with a good fix for the drop target flinging the ball into the glass and into the drain? Ive tried a new spring, shortening the spring, and replacing the target itself, but its really bumming me out as I just repainted the entire cabinet and I can feel my paint job scream out in pain. I usually only go for the target via backhand, but during multiball its not so easy to avoid.

Did the drop target do this from day one? Seems like something that would have been accounted for in development.

Have you considered that felt tape on the edges of the playfield?

I have some on mine to keep from scuffing up my new paint job, and it no longer sends chills down my spine when I lift the playfield.

http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html

(near the bottom)

Mine does the same, be it a rewarded lock from the pork store or a quick lock, it will most times release both balls at the same time.

I fixed it for a while by taking the mech out, putting a new spring and sleeve in it, and bending the bracket to align the post perfectly in the hole so it makes no contact with the playfield, but after a while it went back to its old ways.

Might try replacing the transistor next, but its pretty far back on my priority list for pin maintenance.

ps congrats on getting to boss, Ive had mine a little over a year and still cant get there

Does your boat drop target fling the ball into the glass or just into the air in general too?

Gotta love the ease of whitestar nvram installation.

I went black with silver metallic flake on my Sopranos, even did the wireforms, love this game.

Hi guys, was hoping for a little help.

My safe has a new bracket, and after a few bonks up and down it will start sticking in the up position.

I've tried cleaning the 2 rods that the safe rides on, and it will work at first, but a few cycles later and it will stick up again.

when I try and actuate the latch manually I can see the resistance in how slowly the safe rides down.

Anyone have experience with the pinball life bracket?

I will do this next, I just assume its the posts that pass through the bushings meeting resistance somehow, so i am a bit fixated on that when it might not actually be the problem.

I would love to know this as well. My drop target might as well be a catapult, i am always hitting the glass or side of the cabinet when I hit that target with a cross playfield shot. Yet I have seen video where the target behaves as it should.

Ive tried replacing the target itself, and shortening the spring to give it more pull downwards, still no luck. Think I might dial my flipper power down on that left flipper, and hope the bridge shot isnt terribly effected.

I have the pin2dmd colorization and overall I am happy with it. Its not quite on the level of colordmd's colorizations, but at the price its well worth it. I notice a few bugs or glitches here and there, mostly with transitions from the poker game, or the tombstone animations, but that could be my pin2dmd software not being totally up to date, and its not a deal breaker at all.

vbobrusev is the guy you want to talk to

Think I need to update the firmware on my pin2dmd. I got the latest version of your colorization in June.

congrats!

I am extremely curious as to how the batteries held up.

If it helps with peace of mind, Cary Hardy unboxed a NIB TSPP at TPF this year and the batteries didnt leak, and I watched a video of a Nascar also form that era being unboxed and it was cool too.

Pulling for you.

color dmd is a no brainer, speakers I wouldn't worry too much about as the sound can only get so good on whitestar games.

Being a NIB I would throw LEDs in it and get the LED OCD and GIzmo boards to help makes the flashing of the lights less harsh.

relatable, got a routed Sopranos from a bowling alley, played the crap out of it, totally refurbed it, which got me though my daughter moving away to go to school.

I bought the same part from PBL, had it break in the same spot, asked for a replacement and to their credit they sent it out quickly and for free. That one broke too, same way, a few weeks later. PBL subtly implied it was a me problem and they wouldnt replace it but did refund it.

Brought it to a local machine shop and had it over welded as you did and its been fine since over many plays.

Still happy with PBL, but i am glad it is not in fact a me problem.

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