Where did you order your switches from?

Awesome! Got some hope of a easy fix now

Thanks everyone!

Same. The belt hardens over time and looses its tackiness, so it ends up slipping against the motor gears rather than gripping it.

Got everything from Marco, got 2 of each, which was nice, cause gave me a bit of a price discount

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=500-6889-01%09

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-6124-04

My buddy made these for me..

20191009_182817 (resized).jpg

20191009_182845 (resized).jpg

Nice! I have an alternate on mine as well.

I love the game, but I'm not a fan of the original translite!

Just got all the parts in to rebuild my Sopranos.

20191014_104524 (resized).jpg

Good luck with the rebuild! Keep us posted

Anyone got a source for these?

IMG_20191008_215655.jpg

https://www.pinballlife.com/44-47-and-555-amber-orange-bulbs-box-of-10.html

Saw those. I need yellow though. Thanks for the link.

Does anyone have 2 3/16 nyliner.
I bought all the parts I needed to rebuild my Sopranos pinball machine and the 3/16 nyliners I got from marco are some new style grey ones. They dont work properly on the safe rebuild. Does anyone have 2 of the older white ones.

This is what I found in manual.
Nyliner, 1/4" 545-5423-00
Didn't see 3/16" being used.
PinballLife carries the 1/4"
https://www.pinballlife.com/14-snap-in-nyliner.html

Sorry I was no help. When I looked on PDF file it only show the one (1/4").
PinballLife does have the 3/16". Marco is the only one us see. This is what you ordered, I'm guessing. NYLINER® BEARING 3/16 INCH USE 545-5352-00
#20-8790-1
Standard snap-in Nyliner® bearing 3/16 inch Inner Diameter
Reference:
Williams 20-8790-1
Replaced by 545-5352-00
Weight: 0.002 oz

I found it now after looking better. Should slow down. Yes it shows (4) needed.
Marco shows out of stock for item 545-5352-00.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5352-00

This is what I bought.

It worked for the 2 that just go through the steel but the two that go through the washer also didnt work as the space between the flanges is smaller as the outer flanges are wider on the grey ones.
I'll get a pic tomorrow.

Belt is at marco pinball, only backhand the drop target.

Tightening up the spring for the drop target seems to help, but not totally eliminate it.

Can anyone tell me what part I need to replace this gray plastic protector circled in the picture? Mine is busted but I can't seem to find the part number in the manual. Thanks guys.

190956908.png

hello,

just picked up my sopranos today for around $2750.

I have changed the dip switch settings for UK language but the machine is still in spanish?

how do i change the language please?

I believe you will need to update your ROM. Contact Matt and he will hook you up with what you need. Welcome to the club.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1083-matt-s-basement-arcade/01580-sopranos-pinball-stern-rom-upgrade-chip-set

Or PM Matt at: Meloyelo51

Cheers guys. I have matt on the case and will be ordering through him.

Next question, best way to clean the decals on the side of my machine as they are yellowing.

Magic eraser and light mist of awesome sprayed on Magic Eraser. Go slow and don't rub hard. But first wait and see what others have to say.

Roms on the way thanks to Matt .

Question, my dancers are not moving at all, any advice would be great.

And I have just replaced the belt for a new one and they still don’t move.

hahaha. so it seems that the belt that has been in the goody bag for nearly 15 years also snapped straight away.

Guess i need a new one

This happened last night! My stripper broke. Has anyone fixed this before, if so how?

IMG_20191115_115536 (resized).jpg

Yup easy, take screw out of the top of the stripper pole, slide the stripper and tube uo off the pole.

Glue back together with adhesive of choice. I used a 2 part plastic epoxy

Resized_20190915_135910_7902 (resized).jpeg

Thank you for the quick response and fix!

Hey guys,

I got the post sleeve I needed for this but I was wondering if anyone has experience changing this particular sleeve out? I removed the screw from the top and then moved the plastic over to get access to the post but there is a round washer that I believe is part of the post that doesn't come off. I removed the nut underneath the playfield. I don't have a set of wrenches small enough to get a hold of the post but I was wondering if I actually have to remove the post to change this sleeve? Any help is appreciated.

Reposting the image here.

190956908.png

Post sleeve just slide up and off, no need to remove the post.
Washer might just be stuck to the old dried up rubber post.

Finally got GC after trying for 5 months on my machine. It's all about the multi balls.

IMG_20191130_154259_exported_3237663982763926349.jpg

Just started having airballs off the drop target with regular frequency. I'm going to try replacing the spring, but any other advice to mitigate this?

Hey guys - So I finally got around to updating my settings and I noticed a setting for the optional Q24 coil that can be set for ticket, coin counter, or knocker. Obviously, I'd love a real knocker (and did one using the UK ticket dispenser setting on my Viper Night Drivin). My question is - Since the power line is only for 5v and that's nowhere near enough power - is there a special knocker coil for this transistor, or do I need to run a power line off another coil to get it to work correctly?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-real-knocker-to-stern-white-star

So - that's how I did my Viper Night Drivin pretty easily... I stuck it in the cab where both wires already were and was done in like 5 minutes.

Sopranos doesn't have a Euro ticket dispenser in the 'High power coil section', but it does have Q24 listed as an 'extra solenoid'. Again, in the settings it shows you options for ticket dispenser, coil counter, and knocker and sits in a connector with a Red 5v power line. I found the connector up by the tilt Bob.

So anyway... I cut the purple wire out, wired up my knocker in the lower cab, and connected 50v via a long wire from the lowest pop bumper. So far - that's worked fantastic for 1 kick, and then fried the transistor (total lock on). I'm hoping a quick switch of the TIP122 to a more robust TIP102 will alleviate the issue with a transistor in the typically 'low voltage' section driving a 50v coil.

Update - put a nice, robust TIP 102 into the board... fired that puppy up, one shot in coil test and I was blown all over again.

So - Back to square one... How the hell do you hook up a 50v knocker coil on a whitestar driver board in the 'low power' region... it sounds like it might need a special coil or otherwise - but with the option right there in the book and Portal menu it seems it should be far easier...

Are you maybe forgetting to put a diode in place?

That sounds right to me. Without a diode in place, when the power is cut to the coil, the collapsing magnetic field generates a high voltage spike that would be sent back to the driver transistor. Look at the schematic for one of your other coils and you will most likely see a diode, resistor and capacitor that prevents the spike and slowly drains off whatever voltage remains.

Nah, the diode is in place... I did a little more research and found out it's the pull of the coil. Since Q24 is designed for low voltage in Whitestar, the 50v pull of a DE knocker is going to blow it every time.

In that thread, someone suggested adding in an old WMS knocker that runs on 26v normally and might sound OK at 20v. I'll repair it one more time and we'll see if I ever bother with it. I've given myself far more work than a knocker is worth at this point.

Has anyone installed cliffy shooter lane protectors on their game? Something like this? Specifically the one that goes underneath the right wall in the shooter lane.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cliffy-shooter-lane-install#post-1339799

Or

http://www.passionforpinball.com/balleject/MetRG6.jpg

Not on my game, and it looks like it's took a beating. Like a cannon ball hit it.

I ordered some shooter lane protectors from Cliffy. I'll post some pics once I get them installed.

Recently did a full LED upgrade and I think the difference is night and day. So much more colorful and so much more vibrant. Well worth the cost and time to install in my opinion.

Before

VID_20191219_181953_exported_11401_1576852496987.jpg

After

VID_20191219_223039_exported_19729_1576852525878.jpg

LEDs were purchased from comet pinball. Great service.

Hey I've started to notice this problem on my game as well. I ordered new parts from pinball life but they don't look quite the same. They have this extra piece. One marked "503 SMZ" and the other "503 M". See the attached picture. Does anyone know what that is?

IMG_20191223_005115.jpg

Those are capacitors.
They are used on switches to extend the duration of the closing the switch. Not physically, but it lengthens the time the switch matrix senses that the switch is closed. That makes it easier for the cpu to know a switch has been closed. Mostly used in early SS games for rollover switches and other fast momentarily closed switches. Won't hurt being in a modern game, but isn't really needed.

Thanks. I had removed my post since I found that my machine's switches do have the capacitors as well. Good to know.

Looking for LEDs for my Sopranos. Wonder if I should just get a complete kit or buy them individually. Anyone have a LED-chart or an list of bulbs you have ordered for yours? I have some other pins as well which I also plan to upgrade, so I might go for a bulk order of different colors. Trying to save some bucks instead of buying several kits. Thanks!